GeneralDisorder

Exhaust leaks are best found with a smoke machine. GD

The heat shields are to keep the heat IN. Many folks that have installed aftermarket non-shielded headers have encountered this code - header wrap almost always solves it. The cats are too cold to operate efficiently. The ECU doesn't know the temp - it only knows they aren't working properly. The catalyst reaction requires a high temperature to work so if the cats drop below a critical operating temperature they simply don't function well enough and the ECU sees unburned hydrocarbons at the rear sensor - tripping the code. Replacing the heat shields is probably not feasible. I don't believe you can buy them separately. A high quality header wrap or woven fiberglass insulation would do the trick - wire tied in place with stainless wire. GD

Was there a recall in Canada for the '95 to '99 alternators? The US part number is 23700AA34ARA Buy online for $63 and have them shipped to Canada? Even with shipping it ought to be a lot cheaper than $285. http://www.subarupartswebsite.com/OEMParts/subaru-153/2/23700AA34ARA.html GD

The temp gauge itself is just a sanity check - the real indicator of proper cooling system behavior is more than just one gauge reading - the fact that you don't lose coolant, the fact that the fan cycles on and off in response to the temp switch in the radiator, and that gauge reading all work in community to indicate all is right with the world. But its always nice to have a reslly accurate gauge. Easy enough to do a digital gauge with a thermocouple. GD

We should take a look at the EA82 fan motor and compare to say... a first gen Legacy fan motor. Might be that it could work with some slight alterations, etc GD

I've had gasket kits come with those valve adjustment nut locking tab washers. Best to scope out the push-rods and look for the steel vs. aluminium w/caps. That will tell the difference for certain. GD

Ed's got a fan for you. And likely a set of wheels also. He will probably bring them with him to the shop tomorrow. GD

Wow - me too. Without flywheel it would be about 110. Still more than I thought. Now I feel like the hulk. :cool: GD

83/84 Automatic including turbo 85+ All Hydro's. GD

All optical distributors are interchangeable. If it runs then it's the right one. /Thread. GD

Get a Subaru reman alt for $75. Aftermarket are a complete waste of time and are usually twice the price. GD

This is a question for the dealer. GD

Where did the "new" alt come from? Check your voltages, and check for AC ripple from the alt. GD

I haven't heard of anyone running a 25D frankenmotor long enough to find out. Generally these are not daily drivers. I'll let everyone know if the one in the race Brat goes. It's running a '98 RS block with 90k on it - OEM 25D head gaskets. The 251 frankenmotor shouldn't be affected by compression - and generally people use the 642 gasket which is for an STi and should be a walk in the park by comparison to what the 257 puts to it. GD

I agree with Ivan - I've done plenty of head gaskets - on the 25D's it's standard practice to deck the heads AND the block in my shop. I have yet to have a subsequent failure with my methods. Cleanliness, attention to detail, and flat gasket surfaces are the key.... though with the reputation of the 25D I always let people know that 100k miles is the expected life of the repair due to the design flaws of that engine. Frankly it's not that big of a deal - $1500 for a HG job twice in the realistic life of the engine amounts to $3000 for 300k miles of driving. Amortized over the life of the car that's an insignificant 1 cent per mile. Bonus if you do the timing belts at the same time. Best way to own a 25D is to just figure on doing them at 100k along with the belts which are due at that time anyway. GD

The tach jumping crazy high like that would potentially indicate a distributor problem. Either shaft bearings or the optical pickup in the distributor. Check for shaft play. Potentially an alternator problem also - check for proper voltage and insure there's no AC ripple coming off it. Finally - check out all the components of the ignition system - plugs, wires, cap/rotor, coil, ignition amp, etc. GD

I haven't got anything to say about them other than they sure are expensive. The solution for the SOHC 2.5's is to use the Subaru "642" gasket designed for the EJ255 and EJ257 turbo's. This increases the compression very slightly but they do not leak coolant and oil like the originals. The cost for a set of two from my dealer is $74.98. Given the availibity of this option, the known reputation of the 642, and the price, I would not consider the six-star gaskets for that application. For the EJ25D.... I really can't see them being any better than OEM gaskets since their viton surface has nothing to do with fire-ring blow-out. Subaru redesigned the gasket for that engine 4 times and they still last about 100k give or take. The problem has to do with the engine design - too thick on the HG allowing the cylinder to creep and eventually wear out the gasket. No gasket of the original thickness has ever been shown to stop this. GD

I have a meter that can read the actual amp draw of the fan and what's being drawn off the fuse, etc. Call me and we can test it out, etc. Test first, then replace. GD

A test drive and locking up the wheels proves nothing. Cosmoline is sticky and would likely not impact braking till it heats up and it's viscosity drops. It might actually make them seem to perform well when cold. Further - this stuff will bind with brake dust and become a sticky, nasty goo that will hold brake dust in and around your brakes and wheels. Brake dust and lubricant will form grinding compound and will chew up everything they touch. If I did work like that I wouldn't own a shop and be trusted by hundreds of people to do this every day. You are simply wrong. Your youth and inexperience creates a dangerous combination when coupled with critical safety components like braking systems. Learn the right way to do things or you'll pay the price someday. GD

Not cleaning new rotors is completely stupid and your limited experience is showing profoundly. I have received rotors with oil dripping off them. Very common with some suppliers. They all have some amount of oil on them to prevent corrosion while being shipped from china and stored. This stuff is not condusive to braking and must be removed prior to installation for BEST performance. If you do not clean them you are reducing braking performance. That is not acceptable. Pad material is porus and sensitive to any kind of lubricant - even water. Wet brakes perform poorly and oily brakes are a safety hazard. GD

I really wish Subaru hadn't called it "coolant conditioner". IT IS STOP LEAK. Plain and simple. And it does work in the vast majority of cases. GD

3pin - you are also wrong. Your statements conflict in the most fundamental way. This whole thread is a mess. The HG topic (both phase-I and phase-II) has been discussed to death. The answers from myself and others are here for the searching..... But let me clarify: Phase-I: 2.2: No issues. 2.5: Replace every 100k on average. There is NO prevention or fix other than replacement. Phase-II 2.2 AND 2.5: Coolant weepage can be stopped by Holts Radweld (stop leak) that is rebranded by Subaru and sold as "conditioner". It is nothing more than stop leak. Use two bottles on really leaky engines. Oil seepage cannot be stopped. There IS a fix for the 2.5 - use of the "642" turbo gasket (255/257) has been shown to stop this problem indefinitely. No such gasket exists for that 2.2. 99+ are all phase two engines except the Legacy Outback and GT which used the EJ25D phase-I. GD

Depends on the engine. VW is notorious for exactly that because the valve stem necks down under the face for better flow. As s general rule Subaru's don't exhibit that behavior. GD

You're wrong. GD

It was never corrected. The gaskets are too thick and it is not possible to use thinner gaskets as the pistons need room to crest above the block surface. The "correction" was to reduce the head chamber volume, change the pistons, and use a thinner gasket. GD