GeneralDisorder

You cannot and should not use the fan. As noted the Maxima alt has an internal fan like an EJ alternator. That is one of it's many benefits. GD

I order bulk (by the foot) silicone hose from McMaster-Carr in various diameters to have on hand. It's a lot cheaper than ebay or the silicone hose/coupling web sites. GD

I have two sources that I use most often - my local dealer, and a specialty "Import" parts house that buys only high quality Japanese aftermarket parts - Tama thermostat's, NTN idlers, tensioners, and bearings, Koyo, etc.... Most of that stuff actually are the same as the dealer parts but at a discount over what the dealer charges. I have business accounts with both..... So I'm not sure how to vote - since my buying is split. Usually I favor the aftermarket (but it's mostly OEM so not quite the same thing) but for some things I go straight to the dealer. Really depends. I would never buy a 90 to 99 alternator from my import parts source because the dealer is $75 for those... for example. I need an "I always buy the highest quality at the lowest price" voteing option GD

I'm sure the German one would have been fine. I've seen a few variants of the "OEM" EJ thermostat and as long as they have the same opening diameter, the machined jiggle pin, and the large diamter spring that we are all used to they have worked without issue. I've installed tons of thermostat's and this has been the case 100% of the time. I've seen at least three variants of the OEM design and all have been fine. The one's that are a problem have a smaller diameter opening, a weak/small looking spring, and often no jiggle pin. These are the "domestic" equivelents and they aren't designed with cold-side control in mind. They are desiged for hot-side control systems as used on almost all domestic cars and trucks. GD

Really? Do I really have to hold your freakin hand on this? 95 to 99 all use the same alternator and are all applicable to the part number used for the recall - which is: 23700AA34ARA Here's one site (probaby a dealer) that's selling them for $63: http://www.subarupartswebsite.com/OEMParts/subaru-153/2/23700AA34ARA.html -- or -- www.1stsubaruparts.com (which is Walker Subaru - a dealer in WA state that is widely respected amongst USMB members) has them listed for $67.50 You DO NOT NEED A VIN or a car which is applicable to the recall. And no you don't have to change any wiring connectors. The alt listed above is for all OBD-II phase-I engines. EJ22E's and EJ25D's included. There is NO DECEPTION on your part. You are ordering a part number in the Subaru parts system. It has NOTHING to do with a recall - which was done for free to cars that it applied to directly. The part price was dropped to around $75 MSRP for some logistical reason that I don't completely understand. In any case it doesn't really matter - that's the price. BUYING one means you aren't even part of the recall which was a free replacement for affected vehicles. You are just buying a part. There's nothing wrong or immoral about buying a part at the price being asked..... GD

The problem is.... if you can't do it then we can't really help you do it. It's much to detailed of a process to walk someone through that isn't familair with automotive electrical. It takes me between 6 and 10 hours to strip a harness depending on year/model, etc. You research, you learn.... but at the end of the day you will have to find some wiring diagrams and either sink or swim. Or pay someone else to do it. There are folks that will do it for a price. $1300 for a WRX engine and tranny? Probaby junk for that price. Personally I wouldn't buy a used sports car engine at any price unless it had documentation or I had intimate knowledge of it's history. The EJ205 is not that great of an engine - they suffer from bottom end failure quite often. Pull the oil pan and inspect for metal - and check for varnish or sludge. Both are signs of poor maintenance or abuse. GD

My experience has been that the 105k timing belt interval is a good choice for a preemtive HG replacement. In the vast majority of cases that policy would save people a lot of money and wasted time/effort. And... in the vast majority of cases... people will not avail themselves of my sage advice and will end up losing the gamble. I see this on a routine basis and it's no longer surprising to me. I can complete people's sentances over the phone when this subject arises. It's like reading a familair old script. GD

Under? You will have to be more specific. Why is a single snapped off bolt such a problem? Ignore it, drill it out and heli-coil.... etc. There are usually options. GD

They won't fit the stock fuel rails and no you can't just put them in without a tuning solution. The ECU was carefully programmed to use the injectors it currently has. And in any case you don't need more fuel unless you are increasing air (boost).... And for that you will also need a tuning solution. GD

Buy a WRX. Its cheaper. GD

Virtually all of the seals I've seen installed outside my shop were done wrong. Most tech's don't really know what they are doing. Sounds like there may be a nick in the shaft, etc. Check it out yourself this time. GD

What bolt snapped? If it snapped then there should be no head holding the parts together..... GD

You dont ask for the recall. You ask for the alternator that applies to it. GD

Where are you getting your alts? OEM from the dealer is the only reliable way to go. For the '99 OBW they are only $75 from the dealer due to a reman program that was launched to support a recall from the mid 90's. GD

That's cool but.... They are $6 from the dealer and always in stock. The only time I've seen them break was from people running them past the limts of the adjustment slot or from a rusty lead screw.... Which can be fixed with a wire wheel and some anti-seize. To put forth the effort to make a new version I would do it in steel. But then you have to consider what will break instead if you make that part bullet proof. The way I see it that's a "stupidity fuse" - designed to sacrifice a $6 part to save more expensive things from being monkey fisted. GD

I've seen an '06 blow at 97k. External oil weepage. GD

Then you really don't need any help. Asking for block specs when you are doing a full drivetrain swap and tube chassis is entirely pointless. Gut it, put it on a rotissery and start fabbing. If you have the skills to do that then you have no need of anyone else's specs - especially as they relate to lifts you won't be building. GD

Glass bead blasting is not an effective cleaning method for cylinder heads unless fully dissasembled to the casting and then properly washed... As you surmise it's because the glass beads get into EVERYTHING. It's too hard to clean them out of all passages and crevices. No machinist worth his salt would glass bead a cylinder head in most cases. Your test will be meaningless - a hole is not the same as a drilled passage and never will be. There are too many twists and turns and a passage will have friction just due to it's length that will cause pressure drop. And what would vacuum show? Engine oil is under pressure from the oil pump. It's not drawn through the engine with a vacuum. Also - oil flows from the main galleries drilled in the block to the heads and then back to the sump. Oil in the galleries that feeds the crank would first pass through the oil pump and then the filter on it's way there. The filter would trap glass bead and glass particulate before it ever got to the crank. There is no scenario I can think of where glass beads from the cylinder heads would end up in a rod or main bearing. The lubrication system just doesn't work that way. GD

He was talking about pulling pistons..... At that stage of his post I assumed he had a good reason to be doing such invasive work. As it turns out it sounds like he just needs a reseal. I wouldn't neccesarily go hunting for a replacement engine if it just needs HG's. But anything deeper..... I would install a good used engine. NOT a "leaky junk yard engine" - one that's come from a running car and been fully resealed with new HG's on up. But that's just how I would do it. Though I do have a perfect track record of building excellent running EA82's among my EA82 customers. I may not like them but they can be decent reliable cars if cared for properly. I just wouldn't own one for myself GD

VC is an easy replacement. Don't even have to remove the transmission. Just get a used center diff and be down the road. They don't fail often enough to worry about it happening again. Replacing the transmission for that reason is just plain foolishness. You are going to do a lot more work and incur a lot more expense - losing AWD in the process - to put in a used transmission from a '95 or older? Plain silly. GD

If you're planning to pull out the pistons - just junk it and find a good runner. There's no point in rebuilding EA82's. I do Subaru's every day. There's no point in rebuilding any of the engines or transmissions unless you are working on a 2000+ model or you are doing something really historic like an EA81 or older. EA82's are a dime a dozen and are not worth the expense to rebuild. I got a good replacement EA82 SPFI block a few months ago for $75. Runs great. The Loyale bodied cars aren't worth the time and resources to do an engine rebuild. The investment is too great for the return. The car will still be worth less than $1k. GD

Your biggest problem is going to be the clutch actuation system. The 2002 is going to be a hydro clutch and all the FWD transmissions had cable actuated clutches. This means they use a completely different fork as well as a different pivot point on the transmission itself. Since none of the FWD transmissions were ever used with a hydraulic clutch they most probably will not have the additional threaded boss that would be required to use a hydro clutch fork. With the hydro's they moved the fork pivot point because the hydraulic slave can apply more pressure but can't move as far as the cable's did.... You could try to mount a pedal assembly from an early (95/96) Legacy but I doubt it would bolt right up being a different generation chassis. But you could try. To my knowledge no one has tried.... What's your purpose for wanting FWD? There's plenty of FWD cars out there.... GD

Few people have lifted first gen Brats - to the point that finding any specs is going to be tough. The reason few people have lifted them is that they are very narrow and have really short axles - makes for poor suspension articulation. A block lift is a body lift only and it's only purpose is to fit larger tires - which the EA71 you have isn't going to deal with well - not to mention you have no low range and to get one you will have to swap both engine and tranny..... it's just too much work. McBrat has a second gen and they are completely different - longer, wider, different rear suspension setup, larger engine, low range 4WD, etc. Besides that he has a solid axle in the back and a custom tube subframe. Not blocks. He also doesn't have a toyota tranny in it. It's still a part-time 4WD Subaru tranny. You need to get your search on. This is all covered in many previous posts. You aren't going to find what your asking for because what you are asking for isn't a popular thing to do. You should do more reading and find out why that is so you can decide if you even want to pursue it. I can tell you that you won't like the EA71 for pushing larger tires - which make the block lift rather superfluous. GD

If you can call it a lift - no I didn't. I could have but point in fact I traded a derelict car to "he who's name we shall not speak" for creation and installation of a lift for my '84 wagon. At the time I had neither the tools nor the work space to do the lift myself. It was a mistake not to do the job myself because I ended up redoing every aspect of the lift on that car.... the old adage "if you want it done right...." applies well. And with the help of some board members and of course the SEARCH function here on the USMB I'm quite sure that even without the tools and space I could have got the job done I'm proposing that he do some of that. Rather than bug Mick via PM for pictures and information that he's already posted in his build thread - SEARCHING for that information would be a lot quicker, easier, and less intrusive. And then there's the Toyota adaptor thread. Where he could find out all he needs to know about mating a toyota tranny.... to something other than the engine he has now. And as you are well aware by the tone of his posts - he isn't going to have the gumption for lifting that gen 1 once he discovers how unsuitable it is for that purpose. It almost never happens. And so it's easier to not beat about the bush and just tell him it's a waste of his time. GD

Yes it should come with the sprocket. That's the most common failure point after the belts themselves. The cogged idler should ALWAYS be replaced when doing any Subaru timing belt. GD