GeneralDisorder

Buy a WRX. Its cheaper. GD

Virtually all of the seals I've seen installed outside my shop were done wrong. Most tech's don't really know what they are doing. Sounds like there may be a nick in the shaft, etc. Check it out yourself this time. GD

What bolt snapped? If it snapped then there should be no head holding the parts together..... GD

You dont ask for the recall. You ask for the alternator that applies to it. GD

Where are you getting your alts? OEM from the dealer is the only reliable way to go. For the '99 OBW they are only $75 from the dealer due to a reman program that was launched to support a recall from the mid 90's. GD

That's cool but.... They are $6 from the dealer and always in stock. The only time I've seen them break was from people running them past the limts of the adjustment slot or from a rusty lead screw.... Which can be fixed with a wire wheel and some anti-seize. To put forth the effort to make a new version I would do it in steel. But then you have to consider what will break instead if you make that part bullet proof. The way I see it that's a "stupidity fuse" - designed to sacrifice a $6 part to save more expensive things from being monkey fisted. GD

I've seen an '06 blow at 97k. External oil weepage. GD

Then you really don't need any help. Asking for block specs when you are doing a full drivetrain swap and tube chassis is entirely pointless. Gut it, put it on a rotissery and start fabbing. If you have the skills to do that then you have no need of anyone else's specs - especially as they relate to lifts you won't be building. GD

Glass bead blasting is not an effective cleaning method for cylinder heads unless fully dissasembled to the casting and then properly washed... As you surmise it's because the glass beads get into EVERYTHING. It's too hard to clean them out of all passages and crevices. No machinist worth his salt would glass bead a cylinder head in most cases. Your test will be meaningless - a hole is not the same as a drilled passage and never will be. There are too many twists and turns and a passage will have friction just due to it's length that will cause pressure drop. And what would vacuum show? Engine oil is under pressure from the oil pump. It's not drawn through the engine with a vacuum. Also - oil flows from the main galleries drilled in the block to the heads and then back to the sump. Oil in the galleries that feeds the crank would first pass through the oil pump and then the filter on it's way there. The filter would trap glass bead and glass particulate before it ever got to the crank. There is no scenario I can think of where glass beads from the cylinder heads would end up in a rod or main bearing. The lubrication system just doesn't work that way. GD

He was talking about pulling pistons..... At that stage of his post I assumed he had a good reason to be doing such invasive work. As it turns out it sounds like he just needs a reseal. I wouldn't neccesarily go hunting for a replacement engine if it just needs HG's. But anything deeper..... I would install a good used engine. NOT a "leaky junk yard engine" - one that's come from a running car and been fully resealed with new HG's on up. But that's just how I would do it. Though I do have a perfect track record of building excellent running EA82's among my EA82 customers. I may not like them but they can be decent reliable cars if cared for properly. I just wouldn't own one for myself GD

VC is an easy replacement. Don't even have to remove the transmission. Just get a used center diff and be down the road. They don't fail often enough to worry about it happening again. Replacing the transmission for that reason is just plain foolishness. You are going to do a lot more work and incur a lot more expense - losing AWD in the process - to put in a used transmission from a '95 or older? Plain silly. GD

If you're planning to pull out the pistons - just junk it and find a good runner. There's no point in rebuilding EA82's. I do Subaru's every day. There's no point in rebuilding any of the engines or transmissions unless you are working on a 2000+ model or you are doing something really historic like an EA81 or older. EA82's are a dime a dozen and are not worth the expense to rebuild. I got a good replacement EA82 SPFI block a few months ago for $75. Runs great. The Loyale bodied cars aren't worth the time and resources to do an engine rebuild. The investment is too great for the return. The car will still be worth less than $1k. GD

Your biggest problem is going to be the clutch actuation system. The 2002 is going to be a hydro clutch and all the FWD transmissions had cable actuated clutches. This means they use a completely different fork as well as a different pivot point on the transmission itself. Since none of the FWD transmissions were ever used with a hydraulic clutch they most probably will not have the additional threaded boss that would be required to use a hydro clutch fork. With the hydro's they moved the fork pivot point because the hydraulic slave can apply more pressure but can't move as far as the cable's did.... You could try to mount a pedal assembly from an early (95/96) Legacy but I doubt it would bolt right up being a different generation chassis. But you could try. To my knowledge no one has tried.... What's your purpose for wanting FWD? There's plenty of FWD cars out there.... GD

Few people have lifted first gen Brats - to the point that finding any specs is going to be tough. The reason few people have lifted them is that they are very narrow and have really short axles - makes for poor suspension articulation. A block lift is a body lift only and it's only purpose is to fit larger tires - which the EA71 you have isn't going to deal with well - not to mention you have no low range and to get one you will have to swap both engine and tranny..... it's just too much work. McBrat has a second gen and they are completely different - longer, wider, different rear suspension setup, larger engine, low range 4WD, etc. Besides that he has a solid axle in the back and a custom tube subframe. Not blocks. He also doesn't have a toyota tranny in it. It's still a part-time 4WD Subaru tranny. You need to get your search on. This is all covered in many previous posts. You aren't going to find what your asking for because what you are asking for isn't a popular thing to do. You should do more reading and find out why that is so you can decide if you even want to pursue it. I can tell you that you won't like the EA71 for pushing larger tires - which make the block lift rather superfluous. GD

If you can call it a lift - no I didn't. I could have but point in fact I traded a derelict car to "he who's name we shall not speak" for creation and installation of a lift for my '84 wagon. At the time I had neither the tools nor the work space to do the lift myself. It was a mistake not to do the job myself because I ended up redoing every aspect of the lift on that car.... the old adage "if you want it done right...." applies well. And with the help of some board members and of course the SEARCH function here on the USMB I'm quite sure that even without the tools and space I could have got the job done I'm proposing that he do some of that. Rather than bug Mick via PM for pictures and information that he's already posted in his build thread - SEARCHING for that information would be a lot quicker, easier, and less intrusive. And then there's the Toyota adaptor thread. Where he could find out all he needs to know about mating a toyota tranny.... to something other than the engine he has now. And as you are well aware by the tone of his posts - he isn't going to have the gumption for lifting that gen 1 once he discovers how unsuitable it is for that purpose. It almost never happens. And so it's easier to not beat about the bush and just tell him it's a waste of his time. GD

Yes it should come with the sprocket. That's the most common failure point after the belts themselves. The cogged idler should ALWAYS be replaced when doing any Subaru timing belt. GD

You can't mate an EA71 to a toyota tranny. The bell-housing that's made for toyota transmissions is designed to mate with EJ engines. So you would have to do an engine swap and a LOT of custom work. Basically - if you have to as how it's done - you aren't prepared to do it. Read - the answers are here. GD

But it came off clean on the other side. So you only needed the one gasket..... I can't rightly remember which one seems to always come off clean - but invariably one of them does. So I only end up using a single gasket. The plate is never replaced and is easily cleaned so I don't understand why you keep demanding that the dealer should have sold you this. It's not a wear item and as such is not stocked. The gasket.... eh.... I can make a gasket if I have to. Couple ball bearings and a ball-peen hammer. So they left out a $1 gasket. Big flippin deal man. The much bigger problem is the hack mechanics that didn't know what they were doing when replaceing the duty-c. And for that matter - it's the *solenoid* that goes bad (electrically) - the valve itself could simply be left in place and the new solenoid bolted to it. Though the dealer sells it with the valve attached so I generally replace both. But *if* I had a situation where I couldn't swap out the valve due to not having a gasket on hand I wouldn't think twice about snapping in a new solenoid and leaving the old valve body in there. I've never seen one of these valve bodys fail - just the solenoid itself. GD

Pull the #1 plug and feel for compression with your finger. That means the valves are closed and you are on the compression stroke. Call me about the GL-10. It's running..... GD

Because you never need those. The gasket between the backing plate and the tail housing always stays on the backing plate and I've never had to replace a backing plate - you clean off the gasket on the solenoid valve body side and slap the old plate back in. Though my dealer always sells me two gaskets even though I only use one - never the plate though. They don't stock the plate. They do stock the solenoid w/valve body, gaskets, and clutch pack. No one replaces those plates. And 99% of us only use a single gasket. So they gave you the correct parts for a trained and experienced technician to repair your problem. That's how I see it. They sold you only what you needed and not what you didn't. That's a service to the customer and should be praised. You talked to the parts people - they can only tell you what parts the tech's use for that job and quite frankly even the techs themselves can't be expected to regurgitate in minute detail the procedure they use for this job. It's basic mechanics 101 - if you can't figure it out when you get in there then you shouldn't be turning a wrench. If you have signs of mechanical binding then replace them. If not, and coupled with your observation of condition and measurement of thickness I would not bother. Speculation that they may have been damaged is not proof that they were - but appearance, measurement, and proper operation is evidence that they weren't. I'm going with hard evidence over speculation every time. GD

'96 Outback with an auto is an EJ25D (2.5). One-year engine also - large combustion chamber heads, composite head gaskets, non-dished pistons, hydraulic lifter buckets.... requires premium fuel. GD

Did you even bother to read my post? GD

Encountered my first bad EJ ECU recently. Heater core leaked coolant on it and shorted the injector driver amp - causing the #3 injector to be fully open at all times with the ignition on. The ECU uses the crank sensor signal to determine misfires - instantaneous acceleration can be derived from the hall effect wave pattern. If nothing else is confirming the misfire you should probably inspect the crank sensor/wiring and the crank sprocket for damage. GD

I diagnosed your problem back in post #38 - almost two months ago. That is EXACTLY why people bring their cars to me. Attention to detail. You MUST ALWAYS compare old parts to new one's before installation. Had they simply looked at the old valve and the new valve they would have seen the difference immediately. I cannot tell you how many times I've got a wrong part or seen that I had to reuse a component of an old part with a replacement - this is basic mechanics 101 and if they can't do that on a reliable and consistent basis they SHOULD NOT be wrenching on anyone else's car. Had you lived near me and brought me this problem I would have replaced the Duty-C and transfer clutch if needed (I measure them upon removal) and you would have been down the road for about $300. GD

Nope. Weber will help with low end torque and throttle response. It will not change the peak HP or torque numbers. Same goes for exhaust. You will almost certainly make LESS power than a Loyale. Loyale's are fuel injected, higher compression, and were rated at 90 HP at the crank. You '86 carbed engine is rated at 84 HP at the crank. GD