GeneralDisorder

http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/permatex-ptx-51845-anaerobicgasketmaker300mlcartridge.aspx GD

Never use both RTV and a gasket - RTV is a gasket replacement solution. Red is not the one I would use. Black or Grey. Or better yet - Anearobic or Three Bond. GD

Not conclusive. REPLACE the thermostat and radiator cap and test drive it. I already posted this once. :-\ GD

The OEM WP gaskets are fine, paper is junk - but I use Anearobic all the time in place of the gaskets. Never had the slightest problem. You can use RTV also. That's what Subaru uses for the oil pump. Same style of machined flange. The Aisin water pumps come with the metal gaskets. The GMB, NPW, and others all come with paper. GD

I would assume that the SKF does come pre-greased. That's standard practice for those bearings so I'm fairly certain it would. You can call rockauto and ask them. They may know. My supplier is a local chain of only two stores. They do sell retail and I know they will ship or sometimes have things drop-shipped from their wholesaler. Here's their web site - which is mostly just good for contact info. http://www.discountimportparts.com/index.html If you call them use extension 102 - that's my guy there. His name is Chris. Tell him Rick sent you and said you could help him with Subaru wheel bearings. GD

I have installed dozens of the Koyo and NTN units. Never had a problem. My local supplier runs about $36 with the seals but I get a hefty discount. Can't even beat that price on rockauto.com and they don't carry the Japanese brands. Of the brands that rockauto has - SKF would be my choice. GD

The 1.8 harness will not run the 2.2T. It has no provision for running the turbo and has NO knock sensor support at all. It will not understand the larger injectors, etc. With all the differences in the 1.8 ECU and harness it's really not a good choice. You need a stand-alone or use the 22T harness and ECU. GD

Wondering why you didn't go with a 2.2..... ? Used EJ25D's are like rolling the dice. GD

Nice work. Do you know if this is the same on the older orange dash? I'm about to hookup a 95 OBD-II ECU to an '85 w/digi dash. I may need to come up with a fix. GD

You need another opinion. And you can definitely still get the subaru coolant conditioner. Try one of the online dealers. Or just find any online auto parts dealer that sells Holts Radweld. That's the product that subaru rebranded and sells for $1.50 a bottle at the dealer. GD

I always piggy-back them. Merging the harness is not neccesary and IMO is more work than it's worth. Plus you retain the ability for the car to run a stock engine if you ever want to pull your swap and put it in another chassis. Merging is the SOP on EJ to EJ swaps. But is of little value on EJ to EA swaps IMO. Especially the older you go - carbed cars have very little wiring to control the engine anyway so stripping it out doesn't really buy you much. More useful in FI cars but again - a lot more work for a tiny gain in appearance. And none of my piggy-back swaps look messy or disorganized in any way. Just a few unused connectors zip-tied out of the way. GD

This is less than true. The MPFI was 5 HP more and it's not just the intake and fuel system - it's the heads and cam also. COMPLETELY wrong. The turbo and MPFI heads are identical castings. The compression ratio difference is due to the pistons not the heads. The turbo pistons are in fact 7.7:1 but the SPFI and MPFI/NA pistons are 9.5:1 and the carb pistons are 9.0:1. EA81 N/A pistsons are 8.7:1 GD

Depends on how it's failed. Often there will be no perceptible play in them even though they are quite loud. Sometimes there will be quite a bit. Just depends on the type of bearing and how it's gone bad. They can make a humming sound, grinding at lower speeds, and sometimes they can make really aweful thumping noises that sounds like differential or axle failure. In some situations it's obvious that a wheel bearing is the culprit because the noise will vanish or dimish when you side load the bearing (turning). If turning the wheel slightly to one side or the other causes the noise to change or vanish then it's most probably a bearing. GD

I do them quite regularly. I'm up near Portland but how far would you drive to have it done right? GD

'99 Legacy 2.5 will be an EJ25D and will not work with the '99 Impreza's EJ223 wiring. You need a '99 2.5RS engine, '99 Forester engine, or a 2000 to 2004 engine. Basically you need an EJ253 or EJ251. GD

No the head bolts are NOT the same as the exhaust studs. The head bolts are M11 x 1.25. One millimeter larger. With aluminium you want as much thread engagement as you can get for the head bolts which is why I use 33mm inserts. The threaded section of the holes is 37mm deep. I would not use the Keen-serts as they have those tiny locking tabs that have to be driven down - those could cause issues with the head gaskets not to mention the driver tool that seats them could create a divot around the hole. With any insert you are enlarging the hole but it would be best to keep the amount of the enlargement to a minimum. Which the heli-coil's do. And besides all that the Keen-serts aren't availible in the required size so you can't use them regardless of desire GD

The forester has no ability to control a turbo. Using a 22T block with high compression pistons so you don't need a turbo is a waste of a 1000 HP block. You can't get enough power without forced induction to need that expensive of a block. GD

Classic head gaskets - but also classic of coolant not flowing and/or radiator not holding pressure. Change the thermostat and radiator cap (Dealer only for both) and be sure to use the bleeder plug on the passenger side of the radiator when filling. Bubbles are not conclusive. Could be a bad radiator cap and low coolant level. Change the two potential failure items and then retest. You will know for sure that way. If it still does it - time for HG's. You can reuse the thermostat and cap that you invested in. GD

I agree. I would do a 2.2 in it. And if the bottom end of that 99 25D is any good it can be sold for a frankenmotor candidate to offset the cost of the replacement 22. GD

No way. EA82T with high miles (unreliable) and an early flapper-MAF version to boot...... Price is too high - can easily get into a first gen Legacy for that much. Run. GD

Not a good swap because it's not compatible mechanically or electrically. You need a '95 to '98 EJ22 from an automatic. GD

Well - Numchux must have made a mistake there - there is not, and never has been, a starter relay on any Subaru prior to 1990. There *may* be a relay controlled by the clutch switch on manual's 90 and up.... in any case the starter circuit is NEVER touched when doing an EJ swap. It's 100% seperate from the engine control system except for the start signal wire to the ECU which comes directly off the starter solenoid wire. The starter interlock relay is used on EJ's to prevent you from starting the car in gear on auto's or without pushing the clutch on manuals. But you aren't transplanting the starting circuit - you are transplanting the engine control systems. So what do you need it for? I was thinking you had an auto harness - but I realize now that your interlock relay is for the clutch switch on the Legacy. You have no such animal on the Brat so you don't need an interlock. GD

99 has the 52mm rod bearings - that is the exception to the 25D rules. It's a much better engine. No compression probably means burned or bent valves. It's about $500 to rebuild a set of those heads. So understand that you are most likely going to be into this job for $1000 in parts and machine work. GD

I can sell you the other half of the one's I bought for your GL-10's block. Have to buy them in quantities of 50 and you only need 18 per block so I have plenty leftover. They are M11 x 1.25 x 33mm inserts. GD

You can eliminate the valve that connects to that silly large pipe off the EGR - that's just an extreaneous bit that you don't need. It's the AAV (anti-afterburn valve) and it prevents fuel from being sucked into the engine through the idle circuit under closed throttle coasting.... it's probably shot by now anyway so you can just eliminate it. Use an EGR from a mid to late 90's EJ22 or EJ25. They have a smaller diaphram and fit easier. GD