GeneralDisorder

Doesn't work that way. You are talking about a harness merge and that's not usually done with EA's because of the quite different nature of the two. For $250 you get the 92 harness stripped to where you can install it into the car as a seperate entity - adding the appropriate fuses and making the neccesary connections for it to run properly. A merged harness where I incorporate the EA and EJ harnesses into one unit that plugs into the car would cost significantly more both in labor and shipping. Somewhere around $600 labor plus additional shipping for the monster box it would live in. But again - no one does that. It's easier to just do the neccesary dozen or so connections in the car without ever removing it's original harness. GD

A properly done swap is not going to hurt the value. Though 95% of the swaps I've seen aren't properly done. A stock Brat has a lot of drawbacks. The 4 speed's suck. The EA81 is underpowered and getting more difficult to find parts for.... etc. There's no reason that a properly done swap would hurt the value - the Brat still looks the same on the outside. GD

4 yellow plugs. GD

Sure - up to you. I can strip either one. I remove the SMJ when I strip them and most of the people that offer stripping services do not. It's a bunch of extra work and that's why I'm $250 for those and $200 for the 95 to 98 harnesses. I solder and heat shrink all my connections and label all wire connection points with printed labels. The best harness for a swap IMO is a '95 or '96 Legacy 5MT harness. GD

It will work fine if you build adaptors for the manifold and swap the cam/crank pulleys. People put phase-II EJ22's where 251's and 253's were originally all the time without any runability issues. Oh and you will have to do something for the EGR pipe because they are different. As I said before - I know a guy that put an EJ251 into a '95 Impreza by building adaptor plates for the phase-I manifold and swapping the phase-I cam and crank sprockets over. Yes they do fit and the ECU will not have a problem with the smaller engine - as can be seen in all the examples of people swapping EJ223's and EJ251/3's around with impunity - hell I just sold an EJ223 to a fellow member here that put it in an '03 Legacy - runs like a top. It's not dumb enough to fall for your volumetric effeciency theory - it has an O2 sensor and can tell if the engine wants less fuel. The MAP vs. MAF has nothing to do with the ECU's ability to compensate for the engine demand - both systems are designed to do that. That's the whole point of fuel injection. GD

They will fit if you cut and box in the frame rails a bit. Not that hard to do. I have seen people put EA82's in the first gen body's and they are wider than the EJ's. GD

OBD-II is the government mandated interface for diagnostic code readers. It was made mandatory in '96 but many manufacturers such as Subaru were compliant in '95. It has a generic (not manufacturer specific like OBD-I) port that can be used to check for diagnostic trouble codes, etc. Code readers for this interface are about $25 on ebay, etc. The OBD-II ECU's are faster and easier to interface with. Their wiring harness is also much simpler than the OBD-I harnesses as Subaru did away with the Super Main Junction (SMJ). Depending on the year - some OBD-II's have only a few additional connectors - the OBD-II port itself and the secondary O2 sensor being the most prominent. OBD-I (90 to 94) is a nightmare. A lot more work to strip the harnesses and the ECU is primitive and picky. The MAF and IAC were tranmission specific unlike the later years and the diagnostic process is more involved - you don't need a code reader to simply get the trouble codes but to interface at higher levels such as reading raw data streams, etc you need a Subaru Select Monitor ($$$) or a laptop setup with special software and a custom cable.... OBD-II is the clear winner. But to make your 92 into an OBD-II engine you will need the wiring harness, manifold harness, IAC, MAF, and ECU from an OBD-II setup. Possibly a few other sensors also. Secondary O2.... etc. GD

EJ is the way to go. The EA engines are quaint but there's no real benefit to keeping them. You can do a carbed EJ22 if you want one badly enough. It's been done. Most people don't bother because the MPFI is a better system. GD

Exactly. GD

Yes - you have to remove the timing belt and the crank sprocket. It's not that big of a deal - just slides off. GD

You can't easily fix the EJ22 not having an EGR. The computer will know the difference and it will complain. Giving it the solenoid is not enough. I've done at least a dozen of these swaps. GD

OBD-I's are not fun. You won't like doing a '92 Scott. There's quite a few wires that have to be soldered to eliminate the SMJ. That's why I charge $250 for OBD-I and $200 for ODB-II. GD

I do them for $250. PM me if you like. GD

You don't have to hack anything to put the '95 engine in. Intake adaptors and swap the crank/cam sprockets. That's about it actually. Should run no problem. GD

RR cams are harder. Profile isn't the issue - it's a wear issue as I understand it. Being a regrind.... I would ask Delta about the interchangeability of them from a metalurgical standpoint. Don't want them going flat in short order or something. GD

Your's need new shaft bushings. Contact Philbin manufactureing in Portland. They rebush and rebuild distributors. Will be much cheaper than new/reman and better than anything you can find used. They have rebuilt several for me - ranging from $55 to $120 depending on what they need. http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/special_services.htm All EA82 carb distributors will work. So 85 to 87. Alt is bad. Just replace it. The bridge rectifier in the VR has one or more bad diodes.... not worth fixing it. Get an alt for an 86 to 94 Nissan Maxima. My thread on those is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100559&highlight=nissan+maxima Pics are on like page 13. Had to rehost them. Noise supressor to block AM radio interferance. GD

Instead of paying those guys why don't you just bring it me? Lifter tick and/or solid lifter adjustment is simple to solve. Not an easy task. You will have to bypass the VC - you can't just weld the center diff - you will blow up the VC in short order. So it has to be removed or similarly disabled and that's not going to be easy. GD

Not at all - just pull the access cover in the trunk area. GD

Unless you changed to solid lifters.... a '91 Legacy (and all engines through 96) have hydraulic lifters and there is no adjustment. GD

Dealer or junk yard part. But will have to come from an 80 to 83. 84+ didn't use that style. GD

This is why I tell people to go to their dealer and buy EVERY SINGLE coolant hose on the car and install them before they ever drive it. GD

Problem he has is that his EJ22 manifold doesn't have the EGR at all. It's the wrong casting and there's no valve or any place to put one. Putting the EGR bung in the exhaust would be easy actually - Nissan did that with their exhaust headers. Hell I could make a weld-in bung, cut the head end off of a factory EGR pipe and weld it to a section of steel tubing and run it to the manifold. Possibly with a flex section even to keep it from breaking due to vibration. But all this costs time and money. You wouldn't like what I would charge for this service. As noted - $250 got a questionable job done that broke from vibration after a couple years. My version wouldn't have that problem. And the cost would be commensurately higher. GD

Same for all '82 to '87 GL's. GD

You can't bolt 2.5 heads to a 2.2 block. The fire ring on the 2.2 gasket is smaller than the combustion chambers on the 2.5 heads and will not seal. All you need to make adaptor plates is: Used 2.5 and 2.2 gaskets Scrap 1/2" aluminium plate. Drill bits. Hole saws. Drill press. Die grinder and carbide burrs. Lots of spare time. No welding or machining required. GD

You can pull the engine with the TC attached quite easily. I just did an '03 Baja like this today. You just carefully pull the engine forward and then slip the oil pump drive sleeve off the TC. Then remove from engine bay as normal. Then you can drill out the flex-plate to TC bolts from the back. Much easier than cutting the bell-housing away like that - probably took me a whole 20 minutes..... You get points for creativity though GD