GeneralDisorder

Pack the axle joints with grease. They are dry and are binding from friction and heat. GD

Exactly. Sure - better housings designed for HID's would do a better job of using the light. But as long as the cut-off is sharp and they are properly aimed they will not be dangerous in any way. That's why I elected to go with clear housings with diamond-cut reflectors. Better cut-off and no refractors at the lense to throw the light all over the place. I didn't just throw this idea together. I did my research and made my purchases carefully. The HID kits and bulbs I'm installing are the same one's I used on one of my customer's Acura's. His factory HID balast went out and they wanted $350 for a replacement. For $70 I got BOTH balasts and new bulbs. Just needed a little fab work to install them. Even with my labor he saved money and they are working great for him. I got the same kits but for half price on black friday. I figured - if they don't do what I want I'm only out $35. I want the H4 housings anyway. GD

Not a fan personally. I use Anaerobic as an RTV replacement on just about everything. It's much easier to work with and doesn't cure on the shelf. GD

That's simply not true in all cases anymore. There are TONS of reputable companies that have setup factories in China to make quality goods because of the cheap labor. They bring in experts from highly industrialized countries as well as equipment for both production and quality testing. The Chinese people and government aren't stupid and they are more than capable of finding the flaws in their products and fixing them. The same was said of Japan and then more recently Taiwan and Korea. All of which are making very high quality, name brand goods that you probably aren't even aware are being made there. The same is true for China. If you don't change with the times and open your mind to new ideas and new ways to do things then you'll be left in the dust by the rest of us. Sure we may not make a lot of inexpensive consumer goods here anymore but really - who wants those factory wage-slave jobs anyway? GD

Someone replaced the factory RTV sealant with a gasket which is a really stupid move. Clean it up and reseal it with RTV or Anaerobic. GD

That's the first step! Engine hoist was one of my first purchases - kept it at my parents place when I was renting a room from some friends - worked in the driveway with it. I just got this about 2 months ago: Reminds me of how useful the hoist was when I first got that. Now when I install an engine - instead of climbing over the hoist legs to knock out the bottle jack supporting the transmission I just hit the lift and raise the car body up - dropping the engine and tranny down into the cross-member. :-p GD

The FPCU runs the pump for 1.5 seconds at key-on. Then waits for a tach signal. GD

Custom driveline, transmission mount, and inner axle cups for a cable-clutch transmission. A lot more work for a hydro. Depends on the tranny you use. Just a matter of changing the rear diff. 3.9 - the lower 3rd and 4th gear are in the transmission not the final drive. 95 or 96 Legacy with a 2.2 and a 5 speed. 90 to 94 Legacy also works but the OBD-I wiring is less desireable. Depends on what you pay for the donor car. Probably could get away with it if you are shrewd with your money and patient about aquiring parts. GD

There is no risk of either one of those off-road. Which is what I will do with them if I get a "fix it" ticket or complaints about their brightness. I want to try them and see for myself. I will have the car driven toward me on a two-lane road while I sit in my car in the oncoming lane to see how bright they are. I'm not going to be stupid about it. The "internet" has a lot of mis-information and so-called "experts" who's only "expertise" is how to hold down an arm-chair. Forums (even this one) tell me I "cant" do stuff all the time - cant rebuild Subaru transmissions, cant replace pressed-in wheel bearings, etc. Bunch of sniveling, arm-chair mechanics that spout this "conventional wisdom" because they are too lazy to find out if it's really impossible or just BS. GD

"Lots and lots and lots and lots" of reasons? That's just one site and their opinion is well spoken. But frankly not all of us care to listen and prefer to give it a try for ourselves. The conversion housings I got will also fit regular H4 halogen bulbs and if I determine that my $35 HID kit was a waste of money or dangerous then that's what I'll install. Then I'll move the HID system over to the high-beam application where I will only use it to blind people or for off-road lighting. I got the housings for the myriad of options that H4 capable housings offer and because they are acrylic and will not be cracked and chipped by rocks. I'm going to *try* the HID's because they were cheap and if nothing else they will make great off-road toys. I think it's worth noting that I can find plenty more reasons TO do it than NOT to do it. It really depends on what you want them for and having a fall-back plan if they turn out to be a liability for low-beam daily driving. They are still powerful lights and they were REALLY cheap - I will use them for something. GD

Nope - each year has it's own FSM's and many critical things like wire colors and component placement changed almost yearly. I personally have 80, 81, 83, 84, 85, and the 84 DL/GL and 85-89 Brat/Hatch wiring diagram and troubleshooting supplements (not a big EA82 fan as you can see ). As well as many Legacy, Impreza, Forester, and some EA stuff in digital format's as well. And there's many sites with great scans of the EJ series stuff. The stuff that's lacking in digital format is the earlier EA stuff like the EA81's and early EA82's. The SPFI system (86 to 94 and what's covered in your 90 FSM there) is well represented by PDF's ect and the rest of the neccesary info can be gleaned by careful reading of the Haynes diagrams, etc. It's not ideal but for the rudimentary stuff like the accesory circuits, etc it's usually sufficient. GD

Unless I hit a snag with some rusty bolt or the lower ball joint pinch, etc - 20 minutes tops. On EA's I usually take the inner control arm bolt loose instead of the BJ - but EJ's it's usually the BJ. GD

Your problem is clearly the cone washer and hub mating surfaces. Your cone washer is toast and that's what's causing the nut to loosen. Whoever did your axle and bearings needs to go back to school for wrenching. GD

No you aren't understanding - 10000k is NOT bright. It has 2/3 less lumens than a 5000k bulb and is VERY bluish-purple looking. Would look silly and not be effective for best light output. The best light output for HID bulbs is acheived at 5000k color temp. Also that's a crappy deal. The conversion housings I bought were $54 shipped and the HID kit with 5000k bulbs (or your choice of whatever temp you like) was black-friday sale priced at $35 shipped from HIDextra.com. Regular price is $70 shipped and you can find a 5% discount code on just about every Honda forum on the web... making those two purchases less than that ebay listing AND you get to choose your color temp and deal with a couple of very reputable site's. Also - that listing is for low-beam replacement on a quad-light 83+ Brat. So unless your '82 has been converted to quad lamps those housings won't fit. Only 2WD's got the quad-lamps in '82. And (still more gripes!) - they claim these have glass lenses - which means they are almost certainly steel backed housings. Which is a BIG problem on a Subaru that uses a ground switched lighting system. The housings will ground and cause the lights to always be on.... though that may not be a problem with the HID bulbs because they are plastic. But it will be a problem if you ever want to run standard H4's. The one's I got from automotivelightingusa.com are 100% acrylic and can't cause a grounding issue - just like the stock sealed beams which are 100% glass. GD

For a Loyale - which is fuel injected and doesn't really have many vacuum lines in the first place. If you are looking for anything other than specifically 1990 Loyale hose diagrams then these may be close but may be WAY off. GD

Sure he could - but he asked about an XT6 flywheel - so that's the answer I gave him. :-p I assumed he was talking about the one Turbone has for sale in the marketplace.... GD

I certianly wouldn't do 10,000k - that's basically purple and won't give very good light. Also would attract cops like crazy. 5000k is the brightest in lumens and is nice and white. That's what I am doing on my hatch. I got my kits from HIDextra.com and my sealed beam conversion lamps from automotivelightingusa.com Haven't installed them yet but I expect good things. GD

Might just un-piggy back it and try it that way. May give it just enough variation to not throw the post-cat fuel trim code. GD

The 3 thou of axle OD difference wouldn't do it. With the hub in place and the nut torqued the inner races of the bearings as well as the center spacer are compressed together to create a bearing preload situation - if there is still play in the wheel at that point then the bearings are toast or there's a problem with the cone washer and hub fitment. But since I'm sure you are versed in the cone washer and hub fitment routine.... probably shot bearings. The bearings are worn and thus the stock preload (center spacer) is not small enough to load up the inner races to the balls and tighten things down. Subaru designed these hubs for 7207 axial thrust spindle bearings but used 6207's cause they are cheap :cool:. The shaking you feel could be the DOJ. Usually that's a sign they are dry of grease or the grease has gone bad. When you take it apart and move the grease around in the DOJ by messing with the axle.... lubes up the joint and the DOJ stops binding under load. I say replace the bearings and regrease/reboot the axle. GD

Probably just lifters. Rod knock is a very violent sound and it changes pitch and frequency seemingly all by itself. Ticking is lifters - almost certainly. GD

Oh right - the EA82 is a 5 speed.... being a 2WD it will use a 200mm clutch assortment.... you could use an XT6 flywheel and pressure plate but you would need to use a 225mm disc for an 83/84 4 speed 4WD as well as the TOB holder for the 4 speed and the TOB from an 80's nissan 720 pickup truck.... should work but it will be a strange combo that you'll have to peice together as no one makes a kit with that drunken assortment in it . GD

An 89 would be SPFI and YES the EA81 can be made to work with it. GD

Yes. Mechanically speaking all you need is the adaptor plate and to modify the bolt pattern on your EA flex-plate to bolt up to the EJ crank. The engine will drop right in and sit there as if it were designed to do so. Cooling system modifications will be needed - some fiddling with radiator hoses and it's a huge benefit to have 1.5" inlet/outlet soldered into the EA radiator tanks. Fans have to go in front of the radiator to make room for the larger engine. Power steering lines just bolt up, etc. GD

I always just beat the hub out with a large impact socket and a 4lb drilling hammer from the back side. If it's really stuck in there you might have to pull the knuckle and press it out. I've had similar problems with axles rusted to hub splines, etc. Needed serious heat and a press. Destroyed the hub, knuckle (probably distorted from the heat), and wheel bearings but we saved the axle . Sometimes sacrifices have to be made. Hard to find good OEM axles with intact boots at the junk yards here - easy to find used knuckles with good bearings (this was a front wheel). GD

Going to be a chore to find the right gas tank. That was a 4WD hatchback ONLY tank. Larger bodied EA81's (all of them) don't have tank's that will fit the hatch body due to it's much shorter length. Could always go with a fuel-cell. Not a cheap solution though. GD