GeneralDisorder

This is one of those questions that there's no good answer to - basically if you have to ask it you probably shouldn't be considering doing it. Buy a WRX and have fun with it. It will cost less than doing your proposed swap and it will have more "WRXness" than your swapped mess will have with the money you are likely to have available to perform the deed with. GD

I know for a fact that Subaru was still using the double-row metal tank units on the 98 SUS - Just replaced one about a month ago. Had to lookup a radiator for a 96 GT/Outback 2.5 to get the right one for it. It was a Spectra and I got it for less than $90. GD

If nothing is throwing a code - I would check the timing first. Definitely want to rule that out. If the KS were bad it would most likely throw a code. Seal failure.... lack of attention to detail on the part of the assembler. That strengthens the argument for the timing being off and makes it easy to justify checking the timing if you are going in there to find that leak. One wonders if these jokers at "SSI" are really doing top-notch work.... why would they use a timing belt that doesn't have white lines on it to line it up with the sprocket marks?...... and if they ARE using such belts what kind of idiot monkey would ignore them and why is he touching anything remotely resembling a wrench? The only reasonable assumptions are that either they used a really cheap belt with no marks and didn't count teeth, or they have monkeys working for peanuts assembling their engines that can't tell a white mark from a brown streak in their underwear..... either way it's not a good sign at ALL to receive an engine that's out of time. Something like that leaving the shop would be immediate grounds for dismissal if I had anything to do with it. I smell refund in the air..... GD

Anywhere that's conveinent - but generally one of the brackets. Doesn't matter really where you connect it. GD

That's just silly. Nothing wrong with a properly designed adaptor plate. It makes the swap much more accesible to a much wider audience. Challenge accepted. :-p And no you can't. Not a stock Subaru Hitachi anyway. And even if you use something larger - Weber's get bigger too if you need them too. No Hitachi that I know of will go toe-to-toe with a pair of 48 IDF's. GD

Well - it's possible the lock needs replaced.... but I've had really good luck with having new keys cut by the code. I've actually never had to replace a lock except once when I got a car that the previous owner had busted off a screwdriver tip in the lock. At any rate a code-cut key is $20 and may solve the problem. A good locksmith can rebuild the lock once you get it off and bring it to them..... Lock removal on these can be interesting - locking needle nose pliers are my choice for the headless bolts. I've never resorted to replaceing a column but I can see how it could go down that road if you had one knocking about with good keys (never had the luxury). GD

Depends - you may have to remove the wheel in order to get enough force on the outer DOJ cup to break the rust-bond with the axle splines. Having a large punch/cold chisel and a BFH helps a lot - but requires that your remove the rear wheel to get a good angle on it. GD

I think you would have the best luck trying to use the upper mounts from the GT radiator (drilling new holes for them if neccesary) and then making new holes in the bottom core support for the grommets if needed (hole saw, etc). What about installing a Koyo or Mishimoto aluminium radiator for an SS and then having a filler neck tig welded into it or putting an inline radiator cap in the upper hose? http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-94-Subaru-LEGACY-Turbo-Mishimoto-Aluminum-Radiator-/180729895267?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D170708840092%26ps%3D54 GD

Yeah - I can supply you with one. Just PM me the details. Pics were hosted on my old internet provider's native hosting - they sucked and I switched to fiber so those addresses are gone - sadly I cannot update the posts in this thread to rehost he pictures with Picasa because the post is too old and won't allow me the edit option. Perhaps a mod can do something about that..... GD

Cool! - I'll go through it and make any additions or corrections and then send it your way. Thanks Marnix! GD

A sticky valve on an EA82 will almost always result in the cam follower falling off the valve and lifter. Remove the valve cover and scope out the situation. GD

Loctite 271 wouldn't even work. Exhaust temps are about 800 F minimum. 1300 F is common on turbo's. GD

I changed internet providers (comcast's signal quality blows in my neighborhood so I moved to fiber) and I don't have a web hosting address currently - just using Picasa for pictures.... If someone would like to host it I won't argue.... I was in the process of updating some of the written portions a while back so there's new information that has never been uploaded. GD

They aren't special - if it plugs into the harness it will work. GD

I do all the EA82 cam towers with Loctite 518/Permatex Anaerobic. Never had one leak yet. Easy clean-up when you remove one. Don't have to worry about o-ring cord trying to pop out of the tight curved areas..... I tried that years ago and it was a lot more trouble than it was worth. Don't use Viton - if you use anything use Silicone as it's more flexible and has better heat range. GD

Do you have power at the positive side of the coil when cranking? If not then you need to get ignition switched power to the coil +. You should check the coil primary resistance - should be about 1 Ohm (between positive and negative terminals). Then check the secondary resistance - should be about 10,000 Ohms - between either of the posts and the coil wire tower. If it fails replace the coil. If it passes that test - put a test light between the negative battery terminal and the negative post on the coil - it should pulse on and off when you crank the engine over. If it fails replace the ignition module in the distributor. If it passes all those tests - you have bad plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc downstream from the coil. Should be simple to check. GD

You will have to determine EXACTLY where the coolant is leaking from. We can't see clearly.... crystal ball is foggy tonight. GD

Exactly like that. GD

Yes - if it comes out of the ignition easily but will not turn the lock back to the off posistion then you need new keys made from the code on the passenger door lock. Contact Turbone (Rob) - he's in your area and can tell you if you need a new lock or just keys, etc. GD

Drive a screwdriver through it and twist. GD

I can't imagine it would be an issue unless you decided to chew on it.... probably shouldn't handle anything in your garage and then stick your fingers in your mouth either..... highly doubt it's going to off-gas the lead. :-p I think you'll be plenty safe with your HF clamp. GD

It would be highly custom. If you are a machinist and fabricator.... anything is possible..... but if that were the case you probably wouldn't be asking if were possible. It is unlikely that you will want to proceed with this (basically useless) mod once you see how difficult it would be. GD

It's well-known in the Miata racing community that the VLSD's they are equipped with have a lifespan of about 50k miles. Give or take of course depending on the type of driving. Someone that commutes 50 miles a day on primarily straight, freeway type roads would get more - back-country roads with large numbers of tight turns would get less.... in real-world usage. If you are racing them they are good for one or maybe two seasons. They CANNOT be rebuilt and once toasted must be thrown away. Unless you have real numbers on their condition or mileage - I wouldn't pay the premium people usually ask for them. I have one with 170k on it in my '91 SS (factory equipped) and I can't even tell it's there - it's likely not doing anything at all. You can test the breakaway torque of the clutch type units to determine their condtion and they can be rebuilt and adjusted. So not all is lost if you buy an older one. GD

Yeah I have some experience with these Subaru's :-p. Sounds like the lock and your key are not playing well together. If you can't get the key out of the ignition lock then you may have to visit a locksmith or a knowlegeable board member - you can stop in at my garage if you are in the Portland, OR area or other members in the PNW could likely take a look for you. You may just need to grab the key with some pliers and put some force into it - possibly with some graphite, etc sprayed into the lock. Your first move after extracting the key will be to have new keys made per the code on the passenger door lock tumbler. You can likely read the code off the tumbler by removing the door panel and looking at it with a mirror and flashlight. Any good locksmith can then cut a perfect key. GD

Could be - I haven't seen a small Timken bearing in a while. Perhaps for a certain size range it is no longer cost effective to avoid shipping them in from Japan, China, etc. GD