GeneralDisorder

If you can afford an older Subaru with a carb - then you can plan ahead and afford a Weber to go with it. You can find them used all over the place - last time I rebuilt a used Weber and bought the adaptor it cost me $180 total to install it. GD

You have a lot of ambition I'll give you that. First - you are going to have a lot of trouble hitting 400 HP on the EA82T's heads. They simply will not flow enough to get you there. For comparison - take the EJ22E heads. Also used on the EJ22T - these heads are well known to top out at 300 HP on a 2.2 running about 25 psi of boost - they have dual intake and exhaust ports and they have 4 valves per cylinder.... All the porting and polishing and larger valves and advanced valve timing in the world will not make them flow enough to get anywhere near 400 HP. For that you need some version of the DOHC heads on the EJ's. I doubt the EA82T heads are capable of flowing much more than 250 HP. Next - you will need forged pistons. The stock one's have problems with collapsed ring lands at much lower power levels than you are shooting for. To get over 200 HP reliably - o-ring the block, head studs for greater clamping force, forged pistons at 8:1, and run a nice big turbo and some decent engine management. I've told people this many times but no one wants to fork out the money to do it right - especially when EJ's are super cheap and reliable. I can buy an EJ257 short block for about $600 though a friend - 300 HP from the factory, 400 with some minor mods. What exactly is your motivation for building this? GD

Koyo makes a better bearing than Timken ever did. High quality japanese. I doubt if timken even has any bearing factories left in the states anyway. Its just a brand now..... Next time go to a bearing house and get 6207-2RS-C3. Sealed, pre-greased, and about $8 each. GD

Unless you get one with very low miles - most used LSD's are going to be worn out. Especially the newer VLSD's. 50k is about their expected lifespan. The clutch types can be rebuilt but its not cheap. Best bet is to get something with low miles from a newer WRX or legacy. GD

OEM replacement is Exedy - Amazon has the best price and free shipping. GD

Does it need the ignition switch (electrical portion) or does it need the lock? GD

5k miles is probably too short of an interval for a brand new engine running synthetic oil. But it's a safe interval - unless you are doing oil analysis and you *know* what the properties of your oil are - you are better off playing it safe. Especially with that FB engine - no one in this community or any other (that I know of) has done any oil analysis on it yet. That being said - with oil analysis you could likely push a quality synthetic up to 12k to 15k with proper top-off and filter changes. When I worked in the compressor industry I got to see the benefits of synthetics first hand - all compressors up till the early to mid 90's ran ATF - till they changed the formula and made it too smelly. Now they run specialty compressor lubricants. The interval on oil changes has steadily grown from about 1000 to 2000 hours of operation on ATF to an amazing 8000 hours on synthetic. And they now have a new synthetic oil that is being rated as 12000 hour lube. Sludge and varnish from non-synthetic oils is easily the biggest killer of engines - it will foul the rings and cause them to burn oil - which under the watchless eye of most owners means it runs low on oil and wipes out the rod bearings. It's just a nasty, nasty substance and synthetics are almost entirely free of it. If you plan to shoot for 500k out of your engine - synthetic is the only way to insure you will get there. GD

You have to remove thet cams - on the 25D there are no rockers. Same goes for any of the USDM DOHC engines. GD

I know of quite a few "reputable" shops up this way that I wouldn't trust with bicycle repair. Staffed with morons - couldn't fix a straw if it were bent..... I would say you have classic radiator/hose leak or bad cap symptoms. The fact that you're not holding pressure when hot is a dead givaway. Even one's with blown HG's will typically hold pressure - till it exceeds the rating on the cap. Don't forget to check the weep hole on the water pump. GD

EA81's don't generally require burping. Just fill it, start it with the cap off, and fill a little more, replace the cap and it should be good. You might find it needs a few more ounces after the first cool-down. Don't overfill the radiator as EA81's have no overflow bottle and the system will "seek" it's own level - usually about 1" to 2" below the filler neck. If you fill it past it's desired level it will just spit it out on the ground the next time you get it hot. GD

The stock gauge and sending unit are notoriously inaccurate. If you suspect a problem with oil pressure you must FIRST determine if the problem actually exists or not. You can get an oil pressure shop gauge at Harbor Freight for cheap - other places carry insturments that can be used for this purpose. All you really need is a 0 to 100 psi gauge and the right fittings to hook it up. You should read no less than 15 psi at a 750 rpm idle when fully warmed up. EA81's have simple oil pumps - you should remove the pump, inspect the internals and determine if it's worth resealing - if it is the seal kit is less than $10 from the dealer. If it's chewed up inside or scored badly you should replace the pump - about $70 from the dealer. There are no aftermarket sources for the pumps and the seal kit is cheap enough that it wouldn't be prudent to source it elsewhere. GD

You have to change the drive gear, remove one of the mounting ears, etc. Changing the drive gear requires that you drill a new roll-pin hole through the distributor shaft and is a bit of a precision operation. GD

Incidentally - the factory Subaru rear main seals are made from Viton. That is why they last so long. As stated if it's not leaking I wouldn't mess with it. But I *do* check how hard the seal rubber is getting in addition to checking for signs of leakage - sometimes you find one that's been replaced by someone that was over-zealous when they did the clutch, etc and not all of the seals that are out there are of high quality like the OEM part. If it looks like it's been changed and is getting old - I will change them. The thing is - when you change a rear main seal you had better KNOW how to install seals. One of the other reasons people are told to leave them alone is because a seal of that size is difficult to install for a beginner. The amature installation failure rate on these is high. With proper technique it's nothing to be scared of though. GD

Yeah - the old suction cup and cordless drill technique works fine for most purposes on an older used engine. If you are doing a total rebuild and you want really good valve seating - have a machine shop do a proper two or three angle grind. Check the guides for wear also and don't forget to replace all the stem seals while you are in there taking springs off. GD

Definitely try a new radiator cap. If you have a pressure tester or can rent/buy one - use it. I have the Harbor Freight one and while surprisingly not cheap ($80) it's also of distinctly higher quality than I am used to from them. If you ever get up toward Portland - stop in! Grants Pass eh? Weren't you on the other coast last time I looked?!? Relocate for the cheap, rust-free soobs? LOL GD

YES - use the synthetic. You would be a fool not to use it on a brand new engine. And I don't beleive that this rather exotic weight is even availible as a non-synthetic. Oil change interval should be at least 5k with synthetic on a new engine. Probably 10k would be safe with a filter change at 5. Oil analysis would be a good investment - especially if you can extend your oil changes to 10k or 15k with proper filter changes and top-off. If the engine is not equipped with one, investigate the possibility of an oil cooler. Check with the parts department - I don't know if there is one availible for the FB engine yet but eventually they will have something.... when you can - add one. GD

I have used toothpaste to polish plastic. Works pretty good for watch faces, etc. I've never needed a baking powder finish on any metal parts - I have gone as far as 1200 grit wet-dry on compressor disc valve seats. I would fill them with solvent in my parts cleaner and make sure they had a solvent-tight seal before installing them...... I'll give the baking powder a try sometime though - sounds cool. GD

Yes - EJ251 heads can be done the same way. Though if some serious valve work is needed such as a seat replaced, etc due to being burnt....probably not worth the effort since you are making the trip and waiting on the shop anyway. That is a standard sheet of paper - I keep the head moving in circles. I would do figure 8's but my sheet of glass isn't quite large enough and I've found that you need multiple sheets glued down tight to each other and then you still end up with edges being torn..... it's more work than is neccesary in this case as circles do the job well enough. Someday I may "upgrade" to a granite surface plate and larger sheets of paper (does anyone make such animals or will I have to cut up sanding belts?): http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-x-24-BLACK-GRANITE-GRADE-B-SURFACE-PLATE-STAND-/230290100102?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item359e5c0f86 GD

A peice of steel that's in the range of flatness of ordinary window glass (A lapping plate for example) is quite expensive by comparison to the glass. Glass is cheap and it's the most common thing in our daily lives that is almost perfectly flat - due to how it's produced as a molten sheet product. It is also not subject to being bent and staying that way..... steel warps even as it cools from production and thus has to be ground flat - an additional step not needed for glass - making things like lapping plates fairly expensive. Also HEAVY. They are usually in the 3/4" to 1.5" range. We had a lapping plate at my last job - no one used it - we all had peices of glass hanging around our bench instead since it was lighter :-p. GD

97.... if it's not a GT (spoiler, hood scoop, etc) or an Outback then it's a 2.2. GD

I pay about $80 per head for a full resurface, and valve grind. Each valve and seat that needs replacing due to being burnt is about an extra $25. It's typically about $185 to do a set of burnt-valve heads since it's usually only a single valve. Silly Germans.... Subaru does not use a single TTY fastener - not even on the 2012's. Head bolts are NEVER replaced unless damaged. I will say it now - after you have worked on this Subaru and a few others and have a good feel for them - you won't want anything to do with German cars or equipment. I've worked on my share of VW's, Audi's, BMW's, Mercedes, and others - as well as Busch vacuum pumps (Factory trained service tech) and other odd-ball stuff from Deutschland..... to HELL with that crap. Their engineers need to be drug out in the street and shot. GD

Yes I am talking about ID...... I don't know what you mean by "lose pressure" as these are vacuum lines not pressure lines.... Please clarify. I have not seen anything smaller than 5mm in a Subaru unless you are talking about the vacuum lines behind the dash for the HVAC flappers, etc Subaru used vacuum lines mostly smaller than 1/4" - which is just over 6mm. 5mm works very well. I buy bulk 5mm silicone vacuum line and I have some 6mm on hand as well. I've never used or needed 3 or 4. I find this to true of most Japanese cars. I recently did an engine swap in a 300ZX and we redid all the vacuum lines with 5mm and a small amount of 6mm. Again - no 3 or 4. GD

What do you mean you can feel a piston dragging? GD

Very likely. That's the most common one to get a burned valve on. I've seen it twice before. Always due to lack of valve adjustment. Specifically it's known as the EJ251. Yes - use only Subaru OEM head gaskets. The first couple generations of the gasket had some issues with the sealant washing away. Though the coolant leaks can be fixed with a bottle or two of the Subaru Coolant "conditionter" (stop leak) - they can also leak oil. The leaks are always always worst on the driver's side. Yeah - most machine shops are fine. I use one that does a lot of Subaru's. At that kind of mileage you will want to replace the tensioner. Most kits for that engine on ebay, etc will come with the tensioner - they have a higher failure rate than the old piston style units from pre-97 models. '03 will not have the plastic seperator. Those went away after '99. It should not need to be touched. The oil pump back plate bolts similarly were a problem of the mid to late 90's engines. Though you will want to replace the o-ring behind the pump anyway so check them out. Definitely! Stop in anytime. I did a fair amount of diesel work in the Army. As a generator mechanic by MOS and a truck mechanic most of the time I saw a fair number of brands - John Deer even has an engine or two in the newer generators. Get your timing belt kit from "theimportexperts" on ebay. Yes - pull the intake first. Then pull the PS and flop that away - then the AC compressor and flop that to the side. Rear hooked bracket near the main wireing harness connections, and the front AC bracket has a loop in it. Put a jack under the tranny and jack up the engine off the cross-member. Then hook it up to your picker, take the weight off the engine, and out it comes. Yep. GD

One thing I'll add..... To my knowledge I have never had an engine blow a head gasket after I've replaced it. I've been doing this Subaru thing for a few years now and I have done a ton of engines both ways - machine shop and home resurfacing. Neither has failed me yet. Part of this I attribute to attention to detail and cleanliness. If a job is worth doing - it's worth doing right and to the best of my ability.... something my grandfather passed on to me and it is THE most important concept that permeates my shop. Anyone that has worked in the shop with me knows that I will hold them to it as well while they work under my supervision. No half-assery on my watch! GD