GeneralDisorder

No the XT6 clutch was used on the 88, 89, and 91 XT6's - that's it (yes they skipped a year). You want to ask for an XT6 clutch set - for any of those years. Be prepared for sticker shock. The pressure plate alone is about $165 from the dealer. The entire kit is probably close to $300. GD

Axles really aren't the issue - you just swap DOJ's for the EJ 25 spline units - or open up the AWD box and snap in some 23 spline stubs to the front diff so you can use stock EA81 axles. Either way that's not the big concern. Using EJ outers is a much more difficult propsition - though using the whole EJ cross-member would allow unmodified EJ axles - it would complicate the lift design somewhat and will essentially require that the front lift be built completely custom to allow for the extra width on the cradle and the strut tops. For a lifted rig you really should consider the 6 lug conversion vs. the 5 lug. Many more wheel options that are condusive to that type of a vehicle and would not require a major redesign of the front chassis. GD

Depends on the EJ in question. The EJ257 (USDM WRX STi) is a bit larger than the 93 Impreza EJ18. But not as much as you might think. GD

There is a difference in the rails. For sure. A set of red-top rails will fix you right up. GD

'91 Legacy Turbo's also had an earlier version of the same unit. Actually I had to snap up GG's that he mentioned above because the original cooler on my '91 is clogged on the coolant side and full of metal on the oil side so I need a replacement for the '93 TTW engine it's got now. GD

Split the block and install ACL race bearings. The 48mm rod journals on the 25D are prone to damage after overheating and high mileage. The bearings are cheap and it's worth doing them when the engine is torn down. A light hone, bearings, rings, and new seals. I just bought all the parts for a '98 Forester engine and it was $175 for bearings, rings, and bottom end gasket set..... that's with ACL race series rod bearings for improved durrability. GD

Every Subaru engine made from 1970 to 1984. GD

If serviced properly, the interferance engines don't have problems with broken belts. It's almost unheard of. Your fear is unfounded. GD

I think it will do just fine. Your plans are realistic and you are taking the precautions to insure the engine will be able to handle it - new radiator, new hoses, electric fan conversion, and inline radiator and heater core filtration to ensure nothing gets clogged up. So far the only thing we haven't talked about that I think might be prudent is an oil cooler. Since we can't get ahold of a two-row radiator.... the next best things is to reject heat from the other primary engine fluid - the oil. This will prolong it's life and help the radiator to not work so hard. It will not be a speed demon - and if we lived in a mountainous region at higher elevations it would probably have to be a larger, more powerful engine. But given the scope of what he intends to do with it - pulling a small trailer at a liesurely pace at sea level - it's well within the abilities of the EA82/5MT combo. GD

You have to weld mounts to the control arm and to another stationary location for the extra shocks. Yes it would be in addition to the strut. If you don't add more dampening the strut can be bent at the knuckle because of the additional mass of the larger wheels and tires - and the tendancy to need to use momentum to get over obstacles off-road. The EA low range is not nearly low enough to crawl over stuff so you end up having to take a run at it and use your forward momentum to carry you over - that results in bent struts due to the forces involved - thus the need for more dampening. I can get pics of the one's on my hatch. I'll try to snap one today. GD

Coolant conditioner is silly on that engine. Will not help in the slightest and carries a potential to clog your cooling system. Avoid. You either need a new cat, or you can run up to 50% denatured alcohol and you will pass without a problem . GD

You need a Weber. Stock carbs aren't worth the headache unless you have a fondness for solving fuel mixture control problems with worn-out antique japanese copies of terribly designed european carbs. Just get a Weber - they are also junk (Italian) but tend to only need seasonal adjustment of the choke and mixture controls, an occasional clean/regasket, and regular air filter maintenance. They are also simple enough for a child of 4 or so to rebuild using their plastic carpentry tools from Mattel. GD

Having the shifter further toward the back is not neccesarily a bad thing... are you sure the engine and tranny are in their final locations? From memory of having used a couple of Jerry's kits (cross-member only - I do my own linkage) - I never had to modify the shifter support rail - only lengthen the D/R lever by 1"...... GD

I don't know if it's factory or not but it's usually pretty easy to spot the dealer-installed keyless entry controllers under the dash. They have a couple inline fuses, and a label on the box that indicates their function. GD

Leaking coolant? You need new carb base gaskets. GD

It is not wise for longevity to run them at low temps like that. They were designed for 190* - 220* operation. GD

The quickest way to make it work is to make adaptor plates to mount the EJ22E or EJ25D manifold. Then you just swap crank and cam pulleys/sensors with an EJ22E and it will run without issue. GD

I would go with whatever is cheaper - and then add additional shocks to the front for more dampening. I don't know of any springs that are both weaker and the same height....Once you get it lifted and you have some additional weight and the larger wheels/tires.... the springs won't seem so bad. You should be fine with the stock one's. You will need dampening more than you will need softer springs. For the back - people who are lifting often go with the Rancho shocks.... I think they are for some kind of Jeep that fit the rear with only minor alteration of the upper bracket. GD

Well - it has a nice interior and a very straight body. The engine is a horror show - I ran a pressure test on the cooling system and it lost about 1 psi per minute. Must be going out through the head gaskets or possibly though an intake gasket because there's no external leaks..... the "old man" over-indulged in RTV and it's seeping out of every crevice.... sure signs of amature work. It's got BAD oil leaks from one front cam seal as well as the front main or oil pump.... or both. Who does a water pump and timing belt and doesn't change a $3 seal?!? Rear main has been leaking also. And besides that - the clutch was basically down to the rivets - had maybe a few thousand left in it. It needs a bunch of attention. Looks like I'm resealing an EA82 this week :-\. Previous owners SUCK. GD

Rewire the outback or make custom adaptors to mount an EJ22E or EJ25D manifold. You can't use the EJ251 manifold as it has no provision for the idle air control. You will also have to use at least the crank timing sprocket from a phase-I engine and also possibly the cam sprocket. The reluctor points are different. GD

Almost certainly 8mm x 1.25. And yes - heli-coil is the way to repair that. GD

It really depends on how they are designed - a good quality filter will start out (brand new) being able to filter particulate down to about 15 to 20 micron at near 100% efficiency (usually listed as 99.9%). But as they age and these larger holes start to clog up with bigger particulate then the micron rating of the filter *improves* by a decent amount. Studies have shown that wear reduction can be acheived by filtering particulate as small as 10 micron. Even most quality filters will only acheive about 85% filtration at that small of a particulate size when new. As they age however, they become better at filtering and can raise that percentage. The length of time it takes for a filter to acheive it's smallest particulate filtering size and reach the "plateau" where it will stay till it really begins to clog up will get longer the larger the filter being used. This is the undesireable effect of having too large of a filter or of changing it too often. A better way to improve your oil capacity and dramatically improve your oil life is to install an oil cooler. GD

Rail replacement = one generic o-ring. Injector replacement = two o-rings per injector and it's a fight to get them out. As I said - just get two used 92 to 94 rails with red-tops and you will be fine. You will likely never have another failure. The grey tops were prone to driver coil failure. The difference between automatic and manual transmission injectors is only present on 90/91 models and has to do with the style of injector they used - there's a difference in the spray pattern between the black tops and the grey tops. They both flow the same and are 100% interchangable with the red tops which were used in all engines starting in '92 and going up to '98 EJ22's and some '99 EJ25's. GD

It appears to be a '99 thing. Mine came with both filters so I have them both installed. Hasn't affected gas mileage, etc. I still get about 27.5 on long trips. GD

Some years of EJ's had an intake system that allowed for twin filters - I think only CA models actually came with them installed...... I have a '99 Forester with that weird system and it does indeed have twin filters. I can't see a legitimate need for both. Seems redundant to me. Almost all EJ's have just a single filter. GD