GeneralDisorder

That's a good deal if there's no/little throttle shaft play ^ You should buy it. GD

Heh - It's the wireing part that get's most people - there's about 75 wires that go into the EJ ECU and there's no way to do it if you can't read a schematic. Plus there is a couple areas where a LOT of wires have to be shortened/lenghened and then there's the SMJ that needs to be removed by cutting and solding all the wires on either side of it..... so unless you pay to have the harness done for you, all of this has to be accomplished before you can even start to hook things up. Paying to have the harness done for you is cheating for the purposes of this discussion and also doesn't really give you the inside look at how the harness works - it's very valuable from a troubleshooting standpoint to have built your own harness. I haven't kept track but I know I've seen at least a dozen EJ swaps that got no farther than having *most* of the mechanical part done. That's the easy part. Of the EJ swaps I've seen only a small number are running without Check Engine Lights (if they even have one) and wireing rats nests shoved into the spare tire area or under the dash. The level of professionalism just isn't there for most of them. Thus why I say it takes more than a week unless you've got some kind of assembly line going and have done dozens of them so you have a procedure and a parts list for every possible combination. Each car/donor combo is a little different as wire colors and connector locations changed from year to year and then you have the OBD-1 / OBD-II differences.... there are many compounding factors that make each one unique. GD

Yep - that's exactly what you do. I use a good 12 AWG wire with an aligator clip on one end and female spade on the other. Hook the spade to the starter and then touch the other end to the battery +. If that starts it no problem then you have narrowed your problem down to the crank circuit. Ah - well if that's the case then there's not much to the crank circuit at all. The ignition switch itself (seperate from the lock) and then the wireing harness as well as all the connectors that the circuit runs through as it snakes it's way to the starter. Lots of areas for amperage capacity loss. If it does end up being the old crank circuit amperage loss problem - installing a relay tripped by the damaged circuit that applies fully battery voltage to the starter spade terminal will cure the problem. I've had to do that on a couple EA82's and even one '91 Legacy now. Subaru should have built them with a crank relay to begin with instead of running all that current through the poor key switch. GD

Craigslist or ebay. Be prepared to rebuild and rejet. I typically budget $200 for a used carb, rebuild kit, adaptor plate, jets, etc. It will be more of a headache in the long run if you aren't experienced with rebuilding carbs, etc. I have had excelent dealings with www.carbsunlimited.com - don't buy the kit for the EA81 - call them and order the carb of your choice (choke style, etc), adpator plate, and air filter seperately. The kits have the wrong air filter and you don't get to choose your choke style, etc. GD

No - you would have to buy the EA82 manifold adaptor. That would be an extra $40. Still not that bad and it does flow a little better. GD

You don't understand how I do stuff. I am very particular. But you have to be if you want it to last and be reliable. I'm not putting in an EJ without a steam clean/reseal/t-belt, etc. It's about a day or more (assuming you have everything on hand) to prep the EJ. Stripping, modifying/soldering, labeling, and rewraping the harness is another couple days. Then preparing the car to install the harness is at least a day - finding all the tie-in wires and properly soldering/extending to the location of the EJ ECU, etc...... That's easily a week before I even take the EA off the road and pull the stock engine out. Add performance cams or special engine work and the days just keep climbing. GD

Lean injectors would definitely do it - it just seems to not be very common on Subaru injectors. I wouldn't discount the possibility - especially on a hydro engine. You *sure* they were burnt as badly as in the picture? That one valve reduced the compression to 60 on that cylinder. More valves burnt that badly..... I doubt it would run. I have never seen that level of damage on an EJ22 with only 140k (let alone a hydro engine). Usually they look pristene inside. I just dropped one into a GT with 144k and it's spectacular..... GD

The crank circuit is really simple - there's nothing in it except on automatic's where the shifter interrupts the signal to the solenoid if it's in gear. Later EA82's and possibly the XT6 probably also have clutch interlock switches on the pedal assembly that do the same thing. I seem to recall that being a Loyale thing and since the XT6 was being made through those years I wouldn't doubt it also having that feature. I know the Legacy's all do. It could be a battery cable connection - either at the starter or at the battery. Something may be getting hot and then opening up if the contact is weak..... have you tried using a jumper wire to to solenoid spade terminal directly? That would bypass the crank circuit and tell you if the problem is amperage related in the crank circuit or something in the battery cables or starter.... GD

Yeah that's rough doing it outside - but it's doable with the engine in place. Find some old carpet scraps or a large chunk of cardboard and lay it over some plastic - cut open garbage bags or whatever. As long as you can stay dry it can be done in relative comfort. GD

And how would he know that? He knows less than you do about machines. The peice he's not getting here is COST. Sure the problems can be solved if you have a shop like mine, months to solve them (with other things to drive), and a couple grand to drop. "fixable" is a relative term - anything *can* be fixed but it's entirely possible that you nor he are *capable* of doing the fixing. He clearly hasn't grasped that concept. If you don't have the money to hire someone with the skills and you don't have the skills yourself..... where does that leave you? As far as I can tell it leaves you walking or biking...... GD

No - I wouldn't go up a size if you are going to heli-coil it. People go up a size when they are just going to tap into the aluminium. It's cheaper but I prefer the heli-coil method. GD

EA and EJ studs are both 10mm x 1.25. That is the size heli-coil I always use. GD

Well - I don't have that problem with my battery charger - I have a 1950's 6-Amp unit that I use for charging up batteries that are very dead (it's slower and gentler than my modern 15-Amp unit). It doesn't have any issue with charging batteries that have virtually no voltage output. I have used it on a couple different spiral core units like the Optima's - sometimes it does work. But I've found some that just won't come back. GD

There's an ugly one under the turbo that's a biotch to replace..... but the engine doesn't have to come out. He has to worry about it no matter what. Replace them if they need to be replaced I guess. The engine should come out for that - much easier on your back. And the heads will need to be resurfaced.... how much is he thinking of spending on this POS? Off the top of my head - hoses: $150. Head gaskets, related gaskets/seals, and machine work: $150 - $200. Dual-core radiator: $150 (if he can find one - recently it looks like they don't exist anymore). Labor: Days.... maybe weeks for you two. LOL. Clearly you didn't warn him enough. You don't need friends like that man. If he's not going to listen then leave him to his fate. GD

I've dealt with a couple dead gel-cell batteries and once they are discharged for a period it is unlikely they will come back. If it won't take a carge from an overnight stay on the 15 amp charger - it's unlikely to be salvageable. I have never brought one back from being that dead. I have had a lot more luck with regular liquid acid batteries. I often get them from the junk yard when I spot a good deal on a one that's fairly new. GD

The original design is fine - the problem is the age and condtion of the studs/nuts that's at fault here. Rust happens - especially on exhaust. Sure they could have made the studs from SS but that's a slippery slope and no one could have afforded an econobox built with that kind of attitude. I agree that a proper heli-coil job is in order. After that - replace the studs with one's for an EJ engine. Just go to the dealer and ask for an exhaust stud set for a '96 EJ22 Legacy. The EJ studs are a little over $1 each IIRC and are already the correct size and have a non-threaded portion on the end for gripping them when installing..... worth the few $. Most dealers stock them because they are common to replace. They might be a little short so you might have to stick a peice of all-thread down in the hole to take up some space. When you do the heli-coil it will thread the AIS spacer as well so you will have threads all the way down that will grip the shorter studs. GD

Just remember these points: 1. Use the engine - but nothing past the end of the crank. Use the flywheel/flex-plate/etc from your 2.5 2. You will need the EJ22 power steering lines if you care about the swap being "picture perfect". 3. Whatever EJ22 you choose (95 to 98), you need one with EGR. That means from an automatic.... and apparently not *all* automatic EJ22's have EGR either. '95 for sure does. I just used a '96 and it did also. Beyond that there's a possibility that an auto 2.2 might not have one.. If you find a deal on one that does not have EGR then there will be a little more work involved to make the swap work without any check engine light. If you don't care about a CEL for a code that's basically just annoying..... then this doesn't even matter. 4. If you use a '96 or later EJ22 you will also need the front section of the exhaust as they are single port rather than dual-port like the older engines. 5. It is possible to use a '90 to '94 EJ22 long block (dual port exhaust, non interferance.... so it has it's advantages) - but you will need the '95 to '98 manifold. If it's cheaper to source them seperate (this can happen depending on the sources you have - sometimes manifolds are seperated from blocks that have thrown a rod, etc) then go for it. It's just an extra $6 for manifold gaskets..... Everything else plugs right in. The ECU doesn't change, etc. The 2.2 and 2.5 use the same electronics, sensors, injectors, etc. This is the EASIEST swap ever. It's so rediculously simple...... it's been done hundreds of times. On the GT I just did - you can't tell the car ever had a 2.5. I had a whole donor car so I used the EJ22 PS lines, etc. It looks 100% stock and performs wonderfully. Drives like it's totally stock, etc. You would never know it wasn't a factory 2.2 car unless you looked at the engine bay data plate. GD

Sounds like a Hill Holder malfunction. Check the HH cable adjusment. It's probably too tight. The HH works on one circuit of the dual-diagonal brake system. It locks one front and one rear brake from releasing when the clutch is pressed and the vehicle is on an incline. GD

It's more than a week to do an EJ swap *right*. I could have one in and running in a day - wouldn't be correct. More attention to detail and careful installation is needed to have reliability and longevity. The first things he needs to do with what money he has left: 1. Go to the dealer and order EVERY coolant hose on the car. You know what happens..... remember that pinhole on the small manifold hose on NED? That EA82T sedan is the same vintage. You do that on an EA82T and you will bake the engine. 2. Replace the radiator with a dual-core. This may be hard to source. GD

You can just disconnect the solenoid and read across the pins in the connector for ohms. I have no idea if they are the same part or not - possible. GD

EJ22 non turbo would be less mechanical work but a LOT more wiring. The EA82T chassis is nice because it's already setup for FI but that is the only benefit (not a huge benefit either - Hooray! for not having to change a fuel pump - takes a whole 30 minutes compared to the weeks and maybe months that the EJ swap will take). So is any Loyale and also any 88/89 GL - which is arguably better since you can get one with a D/R. Now if the GL-10 turbo were an 88 or 89 with a 4EAT automatic it would be even easier since you can swap over the EJ bell-housing and have a bolt-in EJ22 with the awesome 4EAT combo..... that would be a sexy beast. But I suspect he hasn't the money to do either one given what his market parameters were - let alone take care of an ailing EA82T with overheating issues that's been hacked on by bubba with a sawzall and power drill....... He should have borrowed some money and bought the GT I have. Would have been faster AND reliable. GD

He will not like it so much when it stops running. Which it will. It will be pretty sitting there in the driveway...... in little peices as he tries to put it all back together again. GD

Yes you can do that. You will have to swap the carb and adaptor over to the EA81 manifold. GD

His plate is appropriate - that's what he will be saying when he realizes what he's got into with that engine. He's bought a nightmare - don't bring it here. No - you can't easily put in a non-turbo. It's not really that simple. He would have to *build* a non-turbo since the car's wireing and fuel system is setup for MPFI heads - either that or find a good engine from a non-turbo XT. Good luck with that...... This will end badly. I say again - DO NOT BRING THAT HERE. Hope he didn't pay much for the f'ed up body - those wheels and tires required a lot of bashing and trimming. Don't do that to NED - that looks rediculous and can't be easily fixed. Nothing about that purchase was good. Better off just dropping the money in the slots at the casino. That's entertaining and when the slot machine breaks you can walk away. *some* Audi's would have been a better choice. Some would have been worse though.... so I guess there's that to smile about. GD

It's not specifically Subaru's - the tendancy on older vehicles was to use a gasket. Now they use a seal on the thermostat itself. When Subaru went from EA to EJ platforms it changed. But it has more to do with the direction of the modern automotive industry at large - I have Ford's and Nissan's that use the same type of seal as the EJ's. This is typically an older car/newer car type of thing - sort of like drum vs. disc brakes. GD