GeneralDisorder

You might want to upload those pics to something other than myspace. I don't do myspace nor any other social networking sites. And frankly most of the people here that have the knowledge you are looking for don't either - no time for that stuff. GD

Yeah - not much you could do given the circumstances so you didn't do too bad. Personally I avoid the Duralast stuff - frankly I avoid Autozone for anything other than emergency chemical and fluids needs after hours of my normal store. I get Bosch reman's for $135 after I bring in the core. Been good to me. The best are the Subaru reman's but those are about $225. I sometimes find them and pull them at the junk yards. GD

I already did - I outlined the procedure in my post above. What more do you need? I told you exactly what to get and where, as well as how to do it. GD

Shouldn't need the adaptor. All the 5 speed's after '94 use the larger adaptor for the shift rod. The 2.5RS kit should work I would think. GD

As I understood it, the bushing had to be bored out and it wasn't a particularly easy job. I take all mine to Philbin Manufacturing as it's not worth the hassle for the $75 they charge me to rebush and rebuild the vac can. GD

I would box in the whole thing. Making it smooth to the wheel-well side with no possibility of debris or water intrusion. What *I* would do is find someone who can cut the lower section of the fender off for you from the west coast - send that in a flat rate box. Then braze the sucker to your fender with a lap joint and all is well again. Very little prep and some paint. Then spend your effort making the patch panel to box in the inside so it can't hold water and debris. Or you could come out here and wrench with me - then just replace the fenders GD

If it's the 5/8" line you are talking about that runs under the EGR, etc. That is the heater core supply line.... I would try to find another intake from a board member. That's a tough one to fix for most folks. If I were going to fix it I would probably remove what was left of the old pipe, get some some tubing of the right diameter (metric steel tubing would be my first choice, but a hard copper of the right size might work as well...). Bore out the hole to the right diameter for the tubing if it wasn't already and then silver solder it in place. That's a very uncommon failure so I would try to find a replacement intake. You can use the EA82 intake if you use the matching upper radiator hose and either an EA82 Hitachi carb or a Weber with the right adaptor plate. If you have any EA82's carb models in the junk yard then just do that - or you can do the SPFI swap GD

Should be the same as for an EA81 if the compression ratio is the same. Compression ratio, not engine size, dictates what the numbers should be. But as long as they are over 100 psi it really doesn't matter what the actual numbers are - there are so many variations due to testing procedure, aparatus and environmental conditions that you can't effectively compare numbers. Each test should be veiwed as a unique entity - the only thing you are looking for is that the cylinders are within 10 to 15% of *each other*. The numbers should be somewhere north of 100 psi but that's about all I or anyone that knows anything about the inner workings of a compression test should be telling you. GD

Are you sure you can even set that gap? I thought it was fixed by the design of the advance mechanism..... been a while since I had one that far apart but...... GD

Probably not an intake gasket with all that milkshake. Intake gasket would cause it to burn coolant, possibly leak it out on top of the motor and overheat once it gets low - won't mix coolant and oil like that though. Make sure all the freeze plugs are in. Pull the oil pan as you need to clean it out anyway and check for freeze plugs in the pan. Otherwise - almost a for-sure headgasket there - I've seen milkshake to that level before and that's almost a sure sign of HG's or freeze plugs. Don't run it much or you will score the bearings and it will be junk. Might already have comprimised the rod bearings - I would be very tempted to drop in a replacement/EJ22 or do a rebuild and Delta Cam, etc. GD

Well Gary - I run comp. and leak-down tests on all my rigs when I get them. It doesn't stop me from buying them - I just want to know in case I notice the running conditions change later, to tell overall condition, and to thumbnail gauge what I might expect from the engine for the future...... My '83 hatch that I've been driving pretty much daily for the last two years has 240k on the motor. Compression test results were: 1: 165 psi 2: 135 psi 3: 160 psi 4: 165 psi That low cylinder doesn't affect it much. The gas mileage is the worst effect as far as I can tell - I'm around 26 MPG with my lead foot. But around 32 on the freeway. It could be 1 or 2 MPG better without that low cylinder I'm sure. Can't tell by the way she runs though. Purrs along like a kitten at 700 RPM with a DGV-5A Weber. Enough power to chirp them into 2nd. GD

I've gone over this many times so a search would yeild a ton of info.... 1. Bearings are standard 6000 series ball bearings. Go to a bearing house and ask for two 6207-2RS-C3 ball bearings. Should be about $12 each. By buying them this way you will get higher quality and sealed bearings for $10 less than the dealer "kit" that comes with open bearings. 2. The seals are $6 or so from any good parts house. The inner and outer are different diameters on the EA82's so make sure you get both and not two of the same one. 3. Remove the axle, and optionally remove the knuckle frome the car. Drift the old bearings out with a brass punch. If you are really fancy like me, you can cut the outer race off one of the old bearings, weld it back together and to a pipe nipple + cap for a driver tool to use on the new one's. You don't need a press and you don't even have to pull the knuckle off the car. It does help to disconnect the tie-rod end from the knuckle so you can spin the knuckle 180 degrees and drive from the back with your punch though. GD

Won't fit. 14's won't fit over the calipers. GD

My impact has a variable speed trigger like a drill motor so you can be pretty gentle with it. They may not all have that option though. I got the set with drill, impact, flashlight, radio, and two batts for $179 on sale at home cheapo. GD

First try smacking them as hard as you dare with a punch. There are also "impact screwdrivers" that you smack with a hammer - it's like an impact gun for screws. I have a battery operated impact - one made by Rigid - 18v, 120 Ft/lbs, and it's got an arbor like a screw gun - I normally run 1/4" or 3/8" socket adaptors but if I have screws to take it I just swap it with a regular driver bit. This is a GREAT method and rarely fails. The last option is a *propely* fitting screwdriver (Snap-On, Mac, etc) and some valve grinding compound on the tip to keep it from slipping. GD

Huh - I was only refering to the color of the top - where the harness plug is. I didn't think the color of the filter screen mattered since you can't see that when they are installed..... all the OEM injectors I've pulled had the same black filter screen (white, black, and pink tops) so I think that's just the aftermarket people that do that. GD

It sounded like you meant pink was for MPFI models. Perhaps you meant "turbo" but your fingers didn't comply with the thought? Where have you seen blue/green injectors on a '90? GD

I have a '91 AT with white top's, and a '90 AT with white tops and I've seen black on '90/'91 MT's. The turbo injectors on my '91 are pink. I've never seen blue or green on a gen 1. They should all be MPFI so I don't know what you mean by that? GD

He's only going to beleive you till his inexperience catches up to his build then your stories of unicorns and rainbows are going to fade real quick. Here's the honest truth kid. You *can* do everything Rob says but he's twice or three times your age, has a ton of mechanical experience, and it took him blowing like three or four of these wonderful little gem's to get to where he's at now, and he's running an expensive, completely rebuilt block. He's got more into that RX than it's worth, and frankly could have bought a used WRX with the price tag. A mentor will only take you so far. You WILL blow that engine - probably just by driving it like you stole it in stock form. You even look at it cross-eyed with a wrench in one hand and it's done for sure. Go buy a car with a future. I won't waste your time and mine by saying anymore. If you want my opinion you can run a search, but don't say you weren't warned. GD

Sounds like the hydraulic piston isn't hitting the clutch fork. Is the fork moving? GD

Are you talking about Automatic or manual. If you are talking 5 speed they haven't switched - all the 5 speed's are Center Diff w/VC. There is absolutely zero electronics in a Subaru 5MT. If you are talking automatic, then they switched to electronic control in 1988 with the advent of the 4EAT transmission (which is still being used in upgraded form). Prior to that there was a 3AT (not electronic) 3 speed automatic that did work off a VC center coupler (no diff) for the rear output. You can expect exactly what you put into the tranny out of it. If you regularely flush the fluid and change it and make sure to not overheat it, or run it with wildy dissimilar tire wear/inlfation then they will last the life of the car. If you don't heed the proper maintenance then they will have transfer clutch and duty-c solenoid failure. GD

Upgrade? Probably not. Most Gen 1 stuff won't fit other than the mechanicals which are, for all intents and purposes, identical. Only if it's a turbo. And if you are looking for one with an LSD they were only equipped with same in '91. All subsequent years were open. As far as manual transmissions, they were AWD only. The AT's were capable of locking into 1st or 2nd gear via a "manual" button. This is designed for better traction on snow, etc. But that's not a "4WD" lock. They can be modified via the duty-c solenoid to lock into 4WD in a 60/40 configuration but so can your '95. Yes but you really don't want the '91 turbo LSD as it uses "outie" axles instead of the "innie" style that your '95 uses. The WRX diff would work fine. I don't think you will notice it at all with an automatic though - auto's don't put any more power to the rear end than they need for the wheels to not slip. They are basically 2WD cars till the front wheels spin and then they transfer power to the rear. So an LSD on the rear that only get's 20% torque transfer unless the front's are slipping? And the LSD's are actually VLSD's and only work at speed - thus they do absolutely nothing for a standing start - speeds aren't high enough, fluid isn't hot in the viscous coupler and you aren't turning..... huge wasted effort IMO. The VLSD comes into it's own when coupled with a manual tranny and 50/50 torque split. Then you can really get the VLSD to push you around corners - it's quite a lot of fun. I have a '91 Turbo Sport Sedan and I love it! You can have manual control - just hook into the duty-c solenoind and you can lock that tranny into 60/40 split 4WD (it will bind around corners just like a 4WD). Which is a great feature and one that the manual AWD's don't have. It's a couple wires and a toggle switch on the dash. Really quite simple. GD

Ok - I'm confused - what *specific* questions do you have. Your '95 AT probably is a 4.11 rear diff. But there likely won't be a sticker on it. You can count the ring gear teeth in it though if you really want to. But please lay out some specific questions if you have any - I have worked on a ton of gen 1 and 2's so I can probably answer. GD

Well - while that surely did occur, and in my own driveway sits my '91 Turbo (OBD-I) with a 3" stainless, catless, turbo-back system..... I don't think the legislation that created the OBD-II system was entirely because of people removing the cats as the VAST preponderance of cars on the road on completely unmodified. It was merely to make the "self-diagnostic" system more robust and to detect failures which would lead to poor emmissions quality but otherwise go unoticed by the consumer. They aren't after us folks that modify our engines. They are after the 99 other people that don't. Easier target and better returns for the investment by far. If they come after me I'll just find another way around it. If I have to buy two identical cars and pull the freakin dash out each time I hit the emissions place so the VIN matches..... see what I mean? The system (IE "The Man") can't beat us. So why would they try? Answer - they really don't. GD

It is under the manifold on the passenger side. A 3/8" drive extension with a 12mm socket can reach it from behind the manifold. You just remove the long, black intake snorkel, and the idle air control hose and it comes out from behind the manifold. It's a blue, two pin connector. They always fail it seems and the dealer wants about $80 for a new one so the resistor is a nice $5 fix. I get one from the junk yard and if it's not good, cut the connector off, and solder in the resistor. GD