GeneralDisorder

Searching for Brat parts is never a really great idea. What you have to understand is that the Brat is just a different body style over the same chassis that Subaru used for the wagons, sedans, coupes, etc. All your mechanical parts and just about everything else forward of the bed is interchangable with a wagon of similar vintage. So you should: 1. Post this in the WANTED forum. Or if you are wanting to know where to buy one then start at the dealership. 2. Ask for a Gen 1 ('76-ish to '81), 4WD control arm. Any model will fit your Brat (not 100% sure on the '81 GL Brat with the oddball engine cross-member, but most likely). 3. If it were me, I would just heat it up with a O/A torch and bend it straight again. No fuss. GD

I've seen video's of an EA81 hatch with them. Seemed to be doing just fine. Don't know if they would last, but it was working. A stripped down hatch is around 1800 lbs or less. They are saying these things can't handle 400 to 600 lbs each? They made in China? GD

They will only go toward the pressure plate. It won't assemble backwards. GD

Or maybe it's because my grandfather used to save the dang things and I have several sections around my garage. Never used them for a boot but it would probably be my first choice for a split boot since there's no way in hell I would actually pay for one. I still think leather would be cooler. :cool: GD

Skid steer - but not with a Subaru drivetrain obviously. You need a bobcat tranny or something. As for mattracks - they are great for sand and snow, etc. They are not as good in mud and deep stuff - and the grit eats them to peices. They are useless for rock crawling. GD

Yes. The problem you are going to run into is there was never a carb model of EA82 with a digi-dash as far as I know. The harnesses will be quite different I suspect. GD

I would like to see someone make leather boots that you can sew together This would probably work quite well for a time actually. That would have been the choice 100 years ago. A section of inner-tube, properly wrapped and adhered together then clamped in place..... might work just as well as the "split boots" anyway. GD

Ever Autozone is different on prices. It's done by zip-code or something. GD

Yeah - the block plugs though are often hard to remove - especially the one under the water pump . If you have a welder, then you can do as Gary sugests but run a weld bead across opposite flats of the nuts the grind them flat and make a tool that way. We did that at work for a time till I got tired of using the makeshift tool and bought that HF set that goes to 17mm - we needed the 17mm for some really weird banjo fittings on some German equipment. I don't know of any other large allen's on a Subaru - that XT6 thing you describe I've never seen on another EA. GD

If you think the car has only a few thousand miles left in it then by all means. Frankly though the split boot isn't any easier to install than regular boots on a Subaru. You don't have to remove the axle from the car. Just pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, drive the spring pin out of the inner joint and pull the joint off the tranny. Remove the inner joint, both boots, and replace with new boots and new grease. Easily done. I prefer to remove the whole axle but it's only about a 20 minute job for me. GD

Yes - the pressure plate exerts pressure on the disc and so when you are tightening the bolts you will see the fingers on the plate flatten out and there is a slight resistance to the bolts. Not a lot through. GD

If you can't find a cheap one (most people don't often run across large allen bolts), Harbor Frieght has a set of allen sockets that goes up to 17mm for like $20. GD

He doesn't have a hydro clutch. Pull the engine and have a look. Something isn't right. Maybe NAPA screwed up the step.....though it's usually too deep rather than too shalllow so IDK. Maybe something didn't go together right. Check that step with a caliper. GD

The only differences for sensors are the fuel level sender in the tank and the coolant temp sensor for the gauge. The wireing is another matter entirely. You will need the FSM's for both and you'll need to sit down and make adaptor harnesses or pull the dash and swap harnesses. Personally I would just make an adaptor for the digi-dash. I went from an EA81 digi-dash to an EA81 analog a couple years ago and I got it to work correctly but it wasn't something I did in a single day. I spent about a month of weekends making the harness and troubleshooting it. GD

If this is happening at a dead stop then you probably have a binding u-joint in the steering shaft. They can get rusty and basically seize up. If it's happeneing while moving then it's probably the torque bind as already mentioned. Could be an artifact of that. GD

Capacity is 8.8 quarts. So roughly 2.25 gallons. GD

Do a search for "Torque Bind". This is a very common problem and is generally caused by lack of transmission maintenance, uneven tire wear, improper inflation, or mismatched sizes/brands of tires. Sometimes flushing the tranny several times will cure the problem, sometimes not. If not then it's probably going to need the transfer clutch assembly and duty-c solenoid replaced - this can be done without pulling the transmission but it's not a job for those that aren't mechanically inclined and have the tools/space to do it. GD

It will have a VLSD rear - only '91's came with them. The axle issue can be overcome simply by installing the '91 axles or DOJ cups into whatever car you are putting the diff into. It also will have an oil cooler between the pump and the filter which is nice to grab. The up-pipe in the exhaust is the same part as used on the STi's. It's catless so also desireable. If you pull the block, inspect it carefully. The old block that came from my car had melted part of the cylinder liner and was pretty chewed on the bottom end. I still traded it for a $350 turbo for my new engine though. The transmission isn't wanted - as noted they are weaker than the WRX tranny's which pretty much bolt in place for them anyway. GD

Incorrect - all EA81/EA82 series wheel bearings are 6207-C3's EA82's have a different diameter inner bearing SEAL. EA81's use the same seal on both sides while the EA82 uses that same seal on the outboard side but a small ID seal on the inboard side. GD

Most supercharger design's are rotary lobe blowers (roots blowers) which can't be driven by exhaust like that. Either that or they are screw style pumps. Being they are generally driven at engine speeds, they are "positive displacement" pumps - the amount of air they flow is almost directly proportional to their speed and there is very little or no "slippage" through the pump - that is that once air goes in, it can't go back the other way. They operate in that 3,000 to 10,000 RPM range - same as the engine. Exhaust gas can't spin the blower with enough force to do any kind of work. Basically the blower isn't efficient enough to extract any useful energy from the exhaust gases. Now turbo's on the other hand are what's known as a turbine. They operate on a completely different principle. The turbine is used to spin a fan which blows air into the engine. The fan must spin VERY fast to increase the pressure on one side of the fan by typically around twice that of atmospheric pressure. The reason it must spin so fast is that the fan is NOT a positive displacement pump. It has to overcome the tendancy for air to slip back across it's blades. The exhaust turbine uses the relatively low density of the exhaust gasses to spin the fan at speeds of around 60,000 to 120,000 RPM - the smaller the turbo the faster it spins as they are limted to speeds below where the tips of the blades break the sound barrier. Obviously you can't really do this by running the fan side of the turbo from the crank pulley unless the fan were very large or it were geared up with a REALLY big gear driving a teensy-tiny gear - which is how it's done in the world of turbine compressors. A 2' diameter gear drives a 2" diameter gear - but that's with compressor fan's that are 6" in diameter. A Subaru turbo has a compressor fan that's about 1" in diameter and as such the size difference of the drive vs. driven gear would be even more radical - that 1" gear would probably need a 10' diameter gear to drive it at the requisite speed with the engine turning 3600 RPM. Not practical. Turbo's work because they are highly effecient at turning the exhaust gases into work - the exhaust gases flow freely by the turbine wheel and impart force to it's blades as they pass. Lobe blowers can't do this - there is too much back-pressure from the positive displacement design and they are very inneficient - requireing 10 HP just to drive them at full engine speeds with a mechanical coupling...... GD

Did the improved extension cord and gas help? GD

Yeah - I don't have one to take pictures of at the moment. I realize that it would help to have a walk-through of both axle removal/installation as well as wheel bearings but I just don't have the time right now. It can be accomplished with a little common sense and a few hand tools though. GD

Year? Part number? That's awesome! How did I miss that one? GD

Looks like a cracked vacuum plug to me. Cut a peice of hose, slip it over the nipple, and stick a bolt in the end. You'll want to adjust your idle speed after you block it as you have fixed a vacuum leak and it should idle better. GD

Not a bad idea. Good used alt and a battery jump box. I've heard stories on here about people having to replace the Duralast one's three or four times and then throwing a tantrum at the store trying to get their money back. Usually works if you make a big enough scene on a Saturday when the place is busy. GD