GeneralDisorder

The heater core passages are basically the same size as the radiator. The tubes are small - about 1/8" to 3/16" ID. Just pull the dash out. It's not that hard and it's worth it to replace bad foam, remove dust and dirt, and sanitize. GD

Yeah - but it never end's up working because people come along and start answering the question that was posed 4 years back because they pay no attention to the thread date and it get all kinds of screwed up and confused. Better to have a FAQ and just put up with people who repost common questions - and scorn those that dig up stuff that's only 25% related to their question. GD

Don't worry about the tooth count. As long as the marks are lined up when you release the pin on the tensioner then you are good. Once you have the belt on, rotate the engine over by hand to insure there is no internal contact. But if the marks are lined up you should be fine. None of us really bother with the tooth count. GD

Air bubbles gurgling through the radiator. It's a sign of improper filling of the coolant. You need to have the nose slightly in the air or bubbles will be trapped in the heater core. GD

On the shutting down issue - very likely to be an ignition component by the sounds of it. If it happens again show him how to check for spark and equip him with a paper clip or even an actual spark checker. Some of them can be installed inline with a plug and left in place for the short term and then a quick look under the hood while cranking will tell you if you have ignition or not. Figure on just doing the head gaskets and a reseal premtively. It's a matter of time with that engine at the mileage it's got and you might as well know the when the downtime will occur as opposed to being surprised by it. GD

+1 for repairing a steel rim. It's done often and steel is maleable enough to handle it. GD

Heli-coil's aren't that big of a deal. And even easier - just oversize the threads in the heads to 7/16" I would rather do it right and have any potential thread problems fixed in case of future need to dissasemble. Besides - pulling the engine is much easier for a clutch job. GD

It's a wasted spark coil so you have to lose a whole bank - you can't lose just one cylinder with a wasted spark coil pack. Run a compression test. GD

No - and please start a new thread rather than dredging one up from 4 years ago. GD

If your tires are mismatched or improperly inflated (big differences) you will have problems getting out of 4WD on dry surfaces. You only need the clutch when going in/out of Low range. High range just engages or disengages the rear output - since the rear wheels are spinning at the same speed as the front it will go in/out without issue at any speed - no clutch required. Just don't do it while turning on a hard surface or you will bind immediately. GD

They are all over ebay - Honda and Toyota both sell them at the dealership for pretty cheap. Frankly though, I just take them apart, clean them up with a file, and reuse them (the contacts, not the brushes). I haven't found a worn out set of brushes yet. You can clean the commutator with a pencil erasor. Make sure that's your problem first though - jumper the connection from the solenoid to the positive terminal and see if your problem still exists. Often it's battery cables or the ignition switch circuit. GD

Plastic bag and a canary over the radiator neck...... that's how we did it back in nam before I lost my leg. But seriously - northern tool has this guy: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200318179_200318179 I doubt it's that accurate and I'm not sure I would trust it for tuning, etc, but if you just want a pass/fail on HC's from the radiator I bet it would do that job alright. For tuning, I have a wideband O2 sensor as it can remain on the vehicle when driving under various load conditions. They are also around $300 for the entry level stuff. GD

Right - they are in the intake. It runs EA82 turbo/MPFI heads. It's basically the EA82T fuel/ignition system remaped to run with no turbo on a 9.5:1 block. It's a total oddball thing. It's similar in essence to the late 80's XT's but with the old flapper MAF, associated computer, no multi-rib belts, and 5 less HP GD

Which side are you refering to as "right side"? If it's the driver's side then it can't be a broken belt as that one drives the distributor. Passenger side - yeah I could see that. I thought for sure you were talking about the driver's side but right/left to me is always standing in front of the engine bay...... it's never clear though so it's better to say "Driver's side" and "Passenger's side" so there's no confusion (at least in the US). I just realized you have the (very rare) '85 2WD MPFI setup. It only came on 2WD GL's and only for that one year. Just be aware that parts are nigh impossible to find for that setup as '85's in general are getting scarce and especially the 2WD MPFI's since they were not desireable cars. They had issues with leaking/bad injectors so you might check on that - especially if it's been sitting. I don't think there are any other injectors that are a direct replacement - the late 80's MPFI XT injectors might be but are probably not the right design and definitely not the right volume. '85/'86 MPFI Turbo stuff is similar but the injectors will be too large. Other parts may interchange though. From what I understand, the injector issue can cause burnt valve seats on these. Probably not enough to lower the comp. to zero, but a leaking injector could wash down all your oil and possibly lower the comp. quite a bit. WAG. GD

We aren't mind readers man. And the forum's all have tags in the description saying which models and year's they are for. Old gen is 1980 to 1989 with a few specific exceptions. I wasn't chewing you out - just letting you know that we can't help you without the correct information and it won't be seen by people that know *how* to help you if it's not in the right place. Threatenting to leave does nothing to us. You are asking for our help - thus far you haven't given any out. GD

This is the wrong forum for a Legacy engine question AND you are hijacking someone else's thread. Go to the new gen forum and start a NEW thread with your issue - you are sure to get better results and people will be much less confused. Also please include all relevant information on the car - year, model, engine type in all your posts so people can answer accordingly. GD

It's unlikely that the belt being off would cause 0 psi in one cylinder and 120 in the other. I would have to really take a hard look at the possible relationship's of the cam and crank to know for sure but the two cylinder's on one side are run off the same cam and a single belt. It sounds like a bad head gasket to me but it's easy enough to verify the timing - just pull the outer covers (6 bolts) and turn the crank till the center of the three valve timing lines are lined up with the arrow. Then you can check the relation of the cams to the crank - one cam mark (hole) should be up and the other down. In order to get absolutely zero compression you would have to have one of the valves open on EVERY upward stroke of the piston. While that is possible, I don't think it's also possible for the other cylinder on the same cam to have compression at the same time. See what I mean? But maybe - definitely check it. GD

Actually - the non-hydro blocks require splitting the block to get the lifters out. The heads have nothing at all to do with the lifters - they are in the block next to the cam. Only the hydro blocks have a provision for removing them without splitting the case. GD

If you loosen/remove the push-rods you can pull them out with a magnet (make sure it's a big, strong one). Getting them back in just about requires removing the oil pan though unless you are really lucky. Drop just one and it's off with the pan to fish it out. And no - you don't have to remove the heads. That's silly GD

Your dad is *somewhat* correct. It won't tear anything up though. It will make it near impossible to drive on dry surfaces and will cause nasty tire wear. Off-road it wouldn't matter much unless the difference was quite large. As I said - it's not *that* critical. They need to be the same size, and about the same inflation - the rubber in the tires will take up a lot difference though and if you pop it into 4WD on dry pavement and one tire is 10 psi different from the other's you aren't even going to notice it. You'll figure it out when you start driving it. Check your tire pressure, make sure you have the same brand and size all the way around, and then just don't worry about it. I go in/out of 4WD all day long on my transmissions - if it's wet and slick sometimes I'll put it in high. If I want greater traction for a quick take off on a steep hill - same deal. You'll get the hang of taking it out of 4WD for turns and parking manuevers, etc. I'll say this again so it's clear - YOU WILL NOT BREAK ANYTHING with stock size tires. It really doesn't matter what you do - you may get totally bound up and have tires chirping, etc..... it won't actually do damage unless you just forget it's in 4WD and drive it like that every day for a couple years. GD

This is a common failure. I also have one in the garage with the same bearing shot. I really don't know what Subaru was thinking - I guess they figure it will last "long enough" or something. IIRC, that's exactly the failure I said it would have in your other thread. You don't have to replace the stake-nut. Just lift the staked portion with a punch and then impact it off. Should be able to straighten the stake ring enough to reuse it. As Will said - you can reuse it till you break it. Same goes for EJ axle nuts. GD

Do you know if it's an automatic or manual transmission? Manual would be best - if it's got the automatic hopefully it's not the ECVT automatic - those were a bit of a problem. The biggest problem with the Justy engines is the oil pump - if you have someone capable that can tinker a bit - a good addition would be an oil pressure gauge if it doesn't have one. It would be a great idea to start using synthetic oil in it, and good quality filters. Otherwise - nice little cars. Great gas mileage too (well - by US standards anyway). Looks like you folks have your share of mini-cars unlike here. GD

Rod knock is uncommon and mis-diagnosed all the time. Especially with the EA82 as they often have a lifter tap that can sound like the end is nigh. Trust me - it's almost surely not a rod knock. Rod knock on an EA isn't even audible unless it's under load and even then it's just a light tapping that wouldn't arouse suspicions - right up till it's about to leave the crank - then they get real loud for about a mile. GD

Yep - crap in the primary circuit. Pull it down and clean it all out. Compressed air will help a lot here. Remove the air bleed and the e-tube so you can really get at the passages. GD

It's usually very hard to tell which head gasket has blown on one's that are only overheating occasionally. Even a compression test typically won't show it. And if you are going to do them then you might as well do both. Not much more work really - manifolds, timing belt's, etc are already off. At that point it's just a dozen more bolts to get the second HG out. Blocks never crack. Heads rarely. It is normal for them to have small cracks between the valves (they all have them - Subaru put out a TSB to ignore them). Sometimes in very severe cases those cracks will go deeper into the coolant jacket but it's very rare on non-turbo engines. It's also possible that you have an internal intake manifold leak. Coolant runs through the manifold and the gaskets between the manifold and head are a common cause of leakage/overheating. Many, many people have replaced head gaskets when it was just bad manifold gaskets all along. Get replacements from the dealer ONLY. They are vastly superior to aftermarket units. That goes for exhaust gaskets, and thermostat gaskets as well. Use the Fel-Pro perma-torque head gaskets if you go in that far - they don't require a retorque and they are tried and true around here. Cheap also. GD