GeneralDisorder

It's a wasted spark coil so you have to lose a whole bank - you can't lose just one cylinder with a wasted spark coil pack. Run a compression test. GD

No - and please start a new thread rather than dredging one up from 4 years ago. GD

If your tires are mismatched or improperly inflated (big differences) you will have problems getting out of 4WD on dry surfaces. You only need the clutch when going in/out of Low range. High range just engages or disengages the rear output - since the rear wheels are spinning at the same speed as the front it will go in/out without issue at any speed - no clutch required. Just don't do it while turning on a hard surface or you will bind immediately. GD

They are all over ebay - Honda and Toyota both sell them at the dealership for pretty cheap. Frankly though, I just take them apart, clean them up with a file, and reuse them (the contacts, not the brushes). I haven't found a worn out set of brushes yet. You can clean the commutator with a pencil erasor. Make sure that's your problem first though - jumper the connection from the solenoid to the positive terminal and see if your problem still exists. Often it's battery cables or the ignition switch circuit. GD

Plastic bag and a canary over the radiator neck...... that's how we did it back in nam before I lost my leg. But seriously - northern tool has this guy: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200318179_200318179 I doubt it's that accurate and I'm not sure I would trust it for tuning, etc, but if you just want a pass/fail on HC's from the radiator I bet it would do that job alright. For tuning, I have a wideband O2 sensor as it can remain on the vehicle when driving under various load conditions. They are also around $300 for the entry level stuff. GD

Right - they are in the intake. It runs EA82 turbo/MPFI heads. It's basically the EA82T fuel/ignition system remaped to run with no turbo on a 9.5:1 block. It's a total oddball thing. It's similar in essence to the late 80's XT's but with the old flapper MAF, associated computer, no multi-rib belts, and 5 less HP GD

Which side are you refering to as "right side"? If it's the driver's side then it can't be a broken belt as that one drives the distributor. Passenger side - yeah I could see that. I thought for sure you were talking about the driver's side but right/left to me is always standing in front of the engine bay...... it's never clear though so it's better to say "Driver's side" and "Passenger's side" so there's no confusion (at least in the US). I just realized you have the (very rare) '85 2WD MPFI setup. It only came on 2WD GL's and only for that one year. Just be aware that parts are nigh impossible to find for that setup as '85's in general are getting scarce and especially the 2WD MPFI's since they were not desireable cars. They had issues with leaking/bad injectors so you might check on that - especially if it's been sitting. I don't think there are any other injectors that are a direct replacement - the late 80's MPFI XT injectors might be but are probably not the right design and definitely not the right volume. '85/'86 MPFI Turbo stuff is similar but the injectors will be too large. Other parts may interchange though. From what I understand, the injector issue can cause burnt valve seats on these. Probably not enough to lower the comp. to zero, but a leaking injector could wash down all your oil and possibly lower the comp. quite a bit. WAG. GD

We aren't mind readers man. And the forum's all have tags in the description saying which models and year's they are for. Old gen is 1980 to 1989 with a few specific exceptions. I wasn't chewing you out - just letting you know that we can't help you without the correct information and it won't be seen by people that know *how* to help you if it's not in the right place. Threatenting to leave does nothing to us. You are asking for our help - thus far you haven't given any out. GD

This is the wrong forum for a Legacy engine question AND you are hijacking someone else's thread. Go to the new gen forum and start a NEW thread with your issue - you are sure to get better results and people will be much less confused. Also please include all relevant information on the car - year, model, engine type in all your posts so people can answer accordingly. GD

It's unlikely that the belt being off would cause 0 psi in one cylinder and 120 in the other. I would have to really take a hard look at the possible relationship's of the cam and crank to know for sure but the two cylinder's on one side are run off the same cam and a single belt. It sounds like a bad head gasket to me but it's easy enough to verify the timing - just pull the outer covers (6 bolts) and turn the crank till the center of the three valve timing lines are lined up with the arrow. Then you can check the relation of the cams to the crank - one cam mark (hole) should be up and the other down. In order to get absolutely zero compression you would have to have one of the valves open on EVERY upward stroke of the piston. While that is possible, I don't think it's also possible for the other cylinder on the same cam to have compression at the same time. See what I mean? But maybe - definitely check it. GD

Actually - the non-hydro blocks require splitting the block to get the lifters out. The heads have nothing at all to do with the lifters - they are in the block next to the cam. Only the hydro blocks have a provision for removing them without splitting the case. GD

If you loosen/remove the push-rods you can pull them out with a magnet (make sure it's a big, strong one). Getting them back in just about requires removing the oil pan though unless you are really lucky. Drop just one and it's off with the pan to fish it out. And no - you don't have to remove the heads. That's silly GD

Your dad is *somewhat* correct. It won't tear anything up though. It will make it near impossible to drive on dry surfaces and will cause nasty tire wear. Off-road it wouldn't matter much unless the difference was quite large. As I said - it's not *that* critical. They need to be the same size, and about the same inflation - the rubber in the tires will take up a lot difference though and if you pop it into 4WD on dry pavement and one tire is 10 psi different from the other's you aren't even going to notice it. You'll figure it out when you start driving it. Check your tire pressure, make sure you have the same brand and size all the way around, and then just don't worry about it. I go in/out of 4WD all day long on my transmissions - if it's wet and slick sometimes I'll put it in high. If I want greater traction for a quick take off on a steep hill - same deal. You'll get the hang of taking it out of 4WD for turns and parking manuevers, etc. I'll say this again so it's clear - YOU WILL NOT BREAK ANYTHING with stock size tires. It really doesn't matter what you do - you may get totally bound up and have tires chirping, etc..... it won't actually do damage unless you just forget it's in 4WD and drive it like that every day for a couple years. GD

This is a common failure. I also have one in the garage with the same bearing shot. I really don't know what Subaru was thinking - I guess they figure it will last "long enough" or something. IIRC, that's exactly the failure I said it would have in your other thread. You don't have to replace the stake-nut. Just lift the staked portion with a punch and then impact it off. Should be able to straighten the stake ring enough to reuse it. As Will said - you can reuse it till you break it. Same goes for EJ axle nuts. GD

Do you know if it's an automatic or manual transmission? Manual would be best - if it's got the automatic hopefully it's not the ECVT automatic - those were a bit of a problem. The biggest problem with the Justy engines is the oil pump - if you have someone capable that can tinker a bit - a good addition would be an oil pressure gauge if it doesn't have one. It would be a great idea to start using synthetic oil in it, and good quality filters. Otherwise - nice little cars. Great gas mileage too (well - by US standards anyway). Looks like you folks have your share of mini-cars unlike here. GD

Rod knock is uncommon and mis-diagnosed all the time. Especially with the EA82 as they often have a lifter tap that can sound like the end is nigh. Trust me - it's almost surely not a rod knock. Rod knock on an EA isn't even audible unless it's under load and even then it's just a light tapping that wouldn't arouse suspicions - right up till it's about to leave the crank - then they get real loud for about a mile. GD

Yep - crap in the primary circuit. Pull it down and clean it all out. Compressed air will help a lot here. Remove the air bleed and the e-tube so you can really get at the passages. GD

It's usually very hard to tell which head gasket has blown on one's that are only overheating occasionally. Even a compression test typically won't show it. And if you are going to do them then you might as well do both. Not much more work really - manifolds, timing belt's, etc are already off. At that point it's just a dozen more bolts to get the second HG out. Blocks never crack. Heads rarely. It is normal for them to have small cracks between the valves (they all have them - Subaru put out a TSB to ignore them). Sometimes in very severe cases those cracks will go deeper into the coolant jacket but it's very rare on non-turbo engines. It's also possible that you have an internal intake manifold leak. Coolant runs through the manifold and the gaskets between the manifold and head are a common cause of leakage/overheating. Many, many people have replaced head gaskets when it was just bad manifold gaskets all along. Get replacements from the dealer ONLY. They are vastly superior to aftermarket units. That goes for exhaust gaskets, and thermostat gaskets as well. Use the Fel-Pro perma-torque head gaskets if you go in that far - they don't require a retorque and they are tried and true around here. Cheap also. GD

There's nothing wrong with the 60k belts. The CA belts are spec'd to last 105k but that's really too long for the tensioners, idlers, and water pump on the EJ22E's.... IMO. It's cutting it awful close to a lot of water pump and idler bearing failure's I've seen. GD

The EJ22E is nothing like an STi motor. It's an open-deck block, good for maybe around 200-250 HP reliably under 4 or 5 psi boost - maybe upwards of 8 or 10 with slightly reduced comp. ratio. The STi engine's are capable of 800+ and the EJ22T's have been known to push 1000. Just putting on EJ25 heads will not lower it enough to enjoy the full benefits of forced induction. You need to change the pistons if you want to be able to boost 20+ psi. You have to change the entire engine cross-member to one that can accomidate the turbo exhaust, change the radiator to a turbo style (doesn't fit without mods), and add the upper water tank, hoses, etc. Drill the oil-return to the passenger side head for the turbo, blah, blah, etc. It's not a small amount of work and it's not something you want to "start" with if you aren't already familair with EJ turbo's. GD

He means the Maxima Alt - they are 90A. GM swap isn't worth it for the 100A version is what the reference is too. The large case GM's that do super-high output are just rarely needed unless you are running serious draw. The bigger you go, the more the neccesity to upgrade some of the harness to avoid potential issues with high current draw and overloading your wiring. If the battery is low for example - the alt now has the ability to melt your harness as the battery will have no issue drawing whatever the alt will push - bigger alt, bigger push. Stock alts are 50A for EA81, 55A for EA82. GD

Only the block is the same. From the heads on out it's entirely different. You would have to swap only the short block. If the "MPFI" is a turbo - forget about it. Compression is way too high on the SPFI block. GD

Just continue to spend "no money" on that lump and save your pennies for something that was meant to have forced induction. And no - no one makes a "kit" for it. If you want it you'll need a lot of parts, and more than a lot of knowledge to make it reliable. Sounds like one too many shade-tree types have been at work on that car. I wouldn't trust it to get me to work (let alone get me there any faster than it already rolls) with a cobbled together mash of parts like that. Run, don't just walk, away from that mess. GD

Depends on what you want.... 100% stock - 87.5 to 89 GL, D/R 5MT, SPFI 90% stock - '82 to '89 GL Hatch with D/R 5MT transplant. 40% stock - '82 to '89 GL Hatch with D/R 5MT + EJ22. That's as good as the '80's get's right there. Of course a low-mileage near-perfect Brat trumps all, but hey - not everyone can have one of those. GD

On the lever actuated transmissions, dry surfaces aren't so much of an issue (with stock sized tires). You can force it out of 4WD. With the push-buttons though they will not come out till you unbind them. You won't hurt anything as long as your tires are the same size/inflation. I use 4th gear Low range on my hatch because the 3rd gear syncro is totally wasted. I just skip 3rd, go to 4th low, then back into 2WD for freeway speeds. GD