GeneralDisorder

Sure it is. How much are you looking to spend? Cost, Performance, Reliabilty - Pick two. To do it *right* - put about 5 psi into the stock engine - used WRX turbo, intercooler, piping, complete exhaust system, engine cross-member, etc. Bigger injectors, fuel/ignition management, gauges...... Probably going to run somewhere around $3,000 to $5,000 depending on what you get and how much you know about building and tuning forced induction engines. It would be cheaper to buy a car that already has one. But if you really want it then there's no reason why you can't turbo it - hell you can turbo your riding mower if you really want to. GD

Nope - 4 bolts, rotate and pull. DO NOT pry hard on it. You will break the housing. Some people have found it neccesary to loosen the block half bolts in the vicinity of the oil pump. I've never had to do this - just rotate back and forth as you pull - sometimes I will pry VERY GENTLY as I rotate. It helps to have the oil filter still attached as a lever for rotating it. It's just bound up with oil varnish. GD

Between the water pump and the timing belt cover IIRC. There's likely a groove in the water pump housing for it if I'm not mistaken. GD

VF11 and TD04/TD05 have the same flanges (thus the same amount of work for either). The TD04 is easier though as the compressor outlet is not at a funny angle like the VF11. GD

I thought I read somewhere that on the DOHC engines they have intake/exhaust valve interferance but not interferance with the pistons..... or maybe its both. I could be wrong though. GD

Mouse nest perhaps? I've dealt with those before..... Nasty! GD

Did you clean and regrease them at that time? If you didn't that's probably 90% of the reason they won't move now. Lesson learned eh? ALWAYS grease the pins and replace any slide pin boots that are torn. Even here on the West Coast I see frozen caliper slide pins and we don't have any rust to speak of. GD

Best insurance you can get is to inatall a new radiator and replace all the coolant lines, thermostat, and radiator cap. Otherwise you run the very real risk of blowing out a head gasket or being stranded by a blown hose. Cooling system failures are the most common on your engine. GD

Well - *maybe* you could bolt it down with it backwards.... but the damper springs are supposed to be on the pressure plate side and if you turn it around the disc friction surface doesn't even touch the flywheel surface.... That would be a monumental "DOH!". I hope it's that simple for you. You'll be "learned" real good for next time GD

Realistically, these are 60k serivice kits. For the price just replace ALL the parts every time. They may be cheaper in quality, but the difference is negligible if you replace them as a maintenace item. Remember that Subaru NEVER reccomeneds replaceing the water pump and I've personally seen EJ22's with 200k+ that had the original factory water pump still going strong (scary, but dealerships do it and don't tell the customer it ought to be replaced so.....). For little more than the price of *just* the belt from Subaru you are getting every single part that could conceivably fail - thus virtually gauranteeing flawless operation *at least* till the next belt change - at which point you just replace it all again. It's not rocket science, nor are they swiss watches. It's simple economics and regardless if the vehicle is mine or I'm selling it - I would still use this kit for the price. If you think I would sell a car with substandard parts on it that I had any inkling were going to fail before the interval I have passed on to the new owner you are quite mistaken. What do you need that for? Just use a socket and ratchet. They stay in their respective posistions without much effort and it's a bit useful to be able to move the passenger side pulley a little as you put the belt on. GD

You need heat if you want to save them. Plain and simple. If you go the small propane torch route - get a bottle of Mapp gas. Burns hotter. The trick is to get as much heat to the caliper as quickly as possible - you want to expand the hole in the caliper while the pin stays relatively cool so it will break the rust and create a gap for lube. Failing that, get the whole stinkin thing as hot as you can and apply ice to the pins - shrink the pins away from the expanded caliper bore. Penetrant + heat = cappillery action. Take the whole bracket off the knuckle and find someone with an O/A setup. A minute or two with a rosebud and some penetrant (thinned ATF is just as good) will bust them loose. Only time I've seen red hot iron fail to release frozen rusted parts is when they were basically friction welded together. You'll lose the booties for the slide pins and probably the piston boot and o-ring but rebuild kits with all those parts are really, really cheap. GD

Good for cold climates. Never needed one here. Actually that is done on carbs and throttle bodies and is done both to keep the carb from iceing up and for emissions purposes. A warm intake atomizes fuel better and reduces unburned hydrocarbons. Bad for performance though - cold air is denser. GD

The difference is that they *do* break. Time is money for the pro. Snap-On, Mac, Matco, etc. have a lifetime warantee *and* you pay a fortune for their product because you won't be back to buy another one. They simply don't break. Broken tools are money lost. The pro needs to trust that they will not break - not even under abuse as it is sometimes required. The problem with a good percentage of the Craftsman stuff is that they are cheap, they do break (they don't mind giving you another because.... duh - their cheap!), and having owned some of those tools I would have to replace them every few months if not sooner. I do use a lot of Craftsman stuff - but there are items - screwdrivers are one of them - that simply aren't worth the metal and plastic they are made from. There is a WORLD of difference between a good screwdriver and a cheap one. They fit the screw, don't break, bend or chip, and can withstand the rigors of a real shop. Craftsman's "regular" line of screwdrivers don't even come close. There was probably a time when this wasn't true - I suspect it was sometime when my grandfather was a young man (born 1915). More than anything the Craftsman screwdrivers are just annoying as hell. I've broken way too many of them and do I really have time to return a single friggen screwdriver? Nope. Even my time isn't worth that little. For the $100 that a decent set costs I would rather not have the frustration. GD

I have taken to buying the Harbor Frieght 6 ton jack stands - invaluable if you do transmission swaps to get the car as high as possible. I beleive they are $39.99 regular but are often on sale for $29.99 Nice stuff - you won't regret the 3/8 cordless impact. I have a Rigid version and it's great. Take it to the junk yard all the time. I will caution you though - the "regular" craftsman screwdrivers (the big kit they always sell on sales) are pretty much junk. I did recently buy one of the "professional" screwdrivers and it's not too bad but the regular ones I don't like at all. I have taken to buying snap-on scredrivers. Sad, but what do you do? GD

You need a BIG hammer. Rotate that caliper up and smack it with some serious poundage. I like a 2-3 lb sledge for stuff like that. Also - sometimes patience is the best option. Soak with some penetrant or 50/50 ATF and mineral spirits (laqour thinner, whatever), Then..... WAIT. Seriously - douse in penetrant, wait 30 minutes and do it again. Then heat it with a propane torch till it's nice and toasty and douse with penetrant again while it's hot (don't use laquor thinner if you do this though). You want to get some cappillery action going. You *can* get them off. It's just going to take some patience and probably a bit of heat. If you can get access to an oxy/acetelene torch then you can take it off in a few minutes. GD

Yes - the bigger clutch works fine with the '82 4 speed D/R. GD

I did that to the middle finger on my right hand about 5 or 6 months ago. The nail is just now returning to normal - takes a long time. Mine got caught in a truck door. Boss made me go to the doctor for workman's comp CYA. Doc asked it I wanted the pressure relieved and I declined. Did it myself with a drill bit. I don't much like doctors - I was a combat lifesaver in the Army so I rarely see one unless I need chems. I go to the Doctor for a staph infection in my arm (needed a prescription for the anti-biotics - almost bought some online from Mexico instead ), and I get the third degree?! She's asking me if I'm a IV drug user? Says I have a lot of injuries on my hands and arms - what the hell? Yeah..... so I don't really like Doctors. GD

Depends on the model I think. Some came without. I know the Forester's have them and probably the Outback's as well but the regular L models often don't. Sometimes it's hard to tell since they get discarded very often. GD

It's not hardened or tempered - it's stamped and welded mild steel - what strength is it going to lose? Whoever told you that doesn't know beans about metalurgy. Besides that, the only forces it's under are tension and compression forces. The strut holds the weight of the vehicle and the control arm only holds the wheel at a specified distance from the engine cross-member. It's being pulled and pushed. I have personally welded on them, cut them, hammered, etc. I've NEVER seen one fail for any reason. GD

Probably rusting them out from the salt. GD

In VW air-cooled land (and in tons of other reciprocating piston machinery), the cylinder "jugs" are seperate from the engine block. I think he just assumed these were similar. Block/cylinder are solid aluminium castings split down the crank. GD

The coupe was made till '84, the hatchback till '89. But make sure they aren't selling you a 3-door coupe door (EA82). In either case the glass is different. GD

I feel like gaurds *cause* injury. My father grew up around 1940's and 1950's power tools - for a time his dad (master carpenter) had a circular saw with no guard (not just stuck - GONE). Then for a while the same saw had a stuck trigger so you had to carefully turn it in it's side and set it on the floor while it was running . He worked 36 years at a lumber yard. Built countless homes, decks, garages, etc. Besides a splinter to the eye that he went to emergency for - zero injuries from power tool blades. None for me either. I learned to respect those 1950's power tools that my dad still used and still uses. Guards? What guards? I think they just make people complacent. GD

Yes - I think old VW's did use canvas back in the day. A thick canvas properly sewn together would likely last quite a long time. I know on the old military trucks I've worked on the boots have zippers! You put the boot on, zip it up, and cover the zipper with silicone. Really old (WWII) stuff was canvas or oil-cloth and also had the zippers or were tied on (yikes!). The days before neoprene! You can alway leave the inner joint on the transaxle and just dissasemle the joint, pull it out of the cup, and reboot as normal. Just requires a bit more clearance - probably have to disconnect the sway bar link and the tie rod to get it done. But doable. GD

That's all I ever do. Penetrant, a brass drift, and some elbow grease. Clean em up (wire wheel on your bench grinder is my preference), regrease, reinstall. You can get caliper rebuild kits with piston o-rings, boots, etc. They are dead simple devices to rebuild. Probably not unless you have to get nuts and drill them out. Entirely depends on what they meant by 80% frozen. I just did one where I spent 30 minutes driving out a single slide pin and carefully salvaging the boots because I'm cheap (they weren't torn or brittle). Cleaned it up as well as the bore in the caliper, greased and reinstalled. No problem. You're welcome. You can do the wheel bearing yourself too. It's not that hard. I use the "FWD service set" from Harbor Frieght - works like a champ. You just need a two or three jaw puller to get one race off the hub. Total cost was $80 for the kit from HF, $35 for the bearing, and $6 each for the seals. GD