GeneralDisorder

Just get one of those flush kits for a couple bucks and splice it into the heater core return line (the one going to the water pump). Hookup a hose and flush away. GD

Any of the common RTV's will do the job. I use ultra grey as it's sensor safe but there are other's that are as well. There aren't a lot of "gaskets" in modern engines anymore. Seals and sealants mostly. High tech sealants have replaced gaskets for a lot of things - the oil pan's being one of them (engine and tranny). GD

There is only ducting to the inside of the windows. The outside is taken care of by the wipers. How hot is your heat? Speed is relative to how moist the inside of the car is and how hot your coolant is / how good your heater core flows - and you of course need the damper doors to be working to direct that hot air to the windsheild. GD

Local place called Discount Import Parts. They are big into VW - lots of air-cooled parts but they deal in all import brands. You need 25 spine axles unless you have a 3 speed automatic turbo. All the other turbo's used 25 spline. Ball joints are one of those things that I only replace if they are worn. Just pry down on the control arm and see if there is any play. GD

They must have some really whiz-bang lawn-mower's for that sort of thing. I bet the local hospitals do a brisk business in splints and crutches as well. Or perhaps they just tether the goat up there..... GD

It's an o-ring, and a fiddly one at that. If you aren't totally sure then make sure it's not the lower radiator hose pipe o-ring that seals to the pump housing and make sure it's not the water pump bypass hose above the pump - it's under the alternator/AC bracketry and is often overlooked. GD

What in blazes is a turf house? There *must* be some sort of civilization - you were tought english (very well I might add ) in a school I would imagine? Hopefully one NOT made of turf or dung or whatever it is that passes for structural materials in Iceland..... Ice roofing sounds like a blast . Beautiful country BTW. Nice place to visit I bet...... in the summer. GD

You have to watch out for the water pump's - there are two shaft lengths depending on which belt arrangment you have. Other folks will know more specifics about which one's go with which. But that auction doesn't really give enough info on the car the parts were supposed to be for to tell which pump he bought either so..... I would steer clear of Mr. Retard there that can't fix his warped head. GD

Yep. Look around on ebay though - I bought an EJ22 kit with the belt, all 4 belt bearings, cam+crank seals, and water pump for $117 shipped. Insanely cheap. GD

An EA81/EA82 police cruiser?!? What the hell are the bad guys driving? Bicycles?? Roads must really suck where the constabulary bought those - if they have roads that is. Nice collection. GD

If you can't find one, let me know. I'll have one for sale shortly. I have to make a spacer for the pulley but I have a nice maxima alt that I pulled about a week ago. Probably be about $125 ready to drop in. GD

Confirm - all the Legacy's have double-din capability. Just remove the pocket if it's so-equipped. GD

That's a common issue - the solution is to install a relay for the solenoid to power it directly off the battery. Use the existing circuit to fire the relay's coil. Just hook the male spade from the back of the starter to the relay's coil + side and then ground the other side of the coil. Run a new wire with an inline fuse from the battery + to the relay contact and the other side of the contact to the starter solenoid. Your problem will never return. GD

If you have a decent selection of tools, it shouldn't take more than a day to do the timing belts and water pump if it's your first time out. It's a 3 hour job for those who have done it before (with the cover's on). Familarize yourself with the procedure before you start. More than one person has been totally confused by the dual-belt setup of the EA82's. As for parts - the ebay kit for the timing belts is what I reccomend. It's very cheap and all the parts will be replaced again in 50k miles. Thus there is no reason to use uber-expensive parts here. I like the Atsugi (SP?) water pumps. They are the OEM manufacturer and typically run about $50 or $60. Check around - my local Discount Import Parts has them.... Rockauto maybe or even one of the online Subaru dealers... also get the cam and crank seals and the oil pump seal kit from the dealer - they are inexpensive. It shouldn't be more than about $175 to $200 for all the parts but your engine will be set for 50 to 60k for SURE. Unlike paying a shop $250 and having the timing belt break in 10k, or something start leaking, or the lifters start ticking. Those guys are in the business of working on your car - not making sure you don't come back. GD

It's an easy job and you may as well do the t-belts, idler, and tensioners while you are in there. Reseal the oil pump, etc. That shop will charge you more than the parts to do everything will run, and they will replace ONLY the water pump and use a crappy brand to boot. Don't let some futz at a garage touch your car. It will hate your for it. It's not that cold - don't be a baby. Hell I'm 50% older than you and unless it was below 0 out (in which case I would rent someone's garage for the afternoon ) I would be out there putting that pump on. GD

As you work the fuel line loose from the rail, cover it with a rag. This is all I've EVER done. These rails run at like 35 psi and have very little volume. You'll get at most a few seconds of fuel from the hose. It's not worth going to the trouble of pulling fuses, etc. Not IMO anyway. Junk yards never depresurize the fuel rail - that's how little of a concern this is. I've cut hoses at the yard with a razor knife and had them spurt a bit. Not a big deal just keep open flames an ignition sources away from it. GD

With the addition of the 240 SX rear calipers you could have 4 individual brake lever's.... though I'm not at all sure where I would put them :-\ GD

Maybe comming out of the rear driveshaft seal? Those aren't an uncommon leak point and they are easily replaced. Only get those from the dealer as I've had friends that replaced them with NAPA seals only to have them leak again in a week or two. Thinking maybe the ATF is sloshing rearward when you take off causing it to run out of the rear output...... just a guess. GD

There is a rear reservior - if you open the rear door it should be along the jam on the side somewhere I think. Been a while since I messed with an EA82 wagon rear washer but all Subaru's with rear washer's have a rear tank and pump. Maybe it's just empty? GD

Wow - your dealer doesn't discount at all! They are usually $10 or $12 cheaper than that at my local dealer. Glad you got it fixed. GD

You should probably ask for specifics over on the XT board. I only know of the problem by proxy - I've never owned an XT let alone one with that specific problem. GD

No rock big enough to cause all that racket could get past the bell-housing inspection cover. Surely is a strange thing you have experienced. Hope you never hear that again. :-\ GD

Cleaing the contacts may mask the real problem for a while - look for it to possibly come back. If it does then your problem is the crank circuit - it's not passing enough current to kick the solenoid out hard enough. GD

XT's are known for problems of this nature related to wireing harness issues around the door sills - being that the ECU is in the trunk the harness runs quite a distance to get to it. People have found stock crimp connections that had corroded or grounded out to the body. If you think it's the alt then disconnect it. The engine will run for a time off the battery. GD

There isn't one. Instead the outer joint is retained by the shape of the CV joint. The inner race, cage, and bearings must be turned 90 degrees for them to come out of the outer race. This obviously can only happen when the shaft is removed from the inner race. It is held in place by an internal snap-ring such that the axle can only be removed by use of a press and appropriate adaptors. GD