GeneralDisorder

Torque bind is not an issue with the part-time manual transaxles. They are either in 4WD or not in 4WD. The engagement system is a shift dog just like any other gear and there is no center diff or TC. Actually - I guess you could say that torque bind is *normal* for a PT4WD tranny as they can't be driven on dry surfaces in 4WD anyway unless you are only going straight. As for your brakes - sound like the caliper's need their slides greased or the rear drums are out of adjustment. To adjust the HH - adjust the clutch first. Then adjust the HH cable till it's just tight - barely pulling on the return spring. That's usually right on. Sometimes on the EA's they like to be a little tighter. Try it out on a hill and make sure it releases right as the clutch starts to drag. HH controls one front and one rear wheel (IE - one of the two diagonal circuits). GD

Yeah - I don't think the O2 would drop it that much either. I have seen them bad enough that the engine wouldn't run but that was with a feedback carb EA81. Probably just a fluke with that primitive ECU..... The CTS is a good sugestion.... perhaps the CTS is reporting cold and the O2 is reporting lean as well. Leaking injectors? GD

I only buy safety tipped shoes and boots now. I don't get a lot of selection but I like being able perambulate.... and no one talks about my unfashionable shoes - too busy checking out my super fashionable Carhartt Bibs I suppose GD

Yep - only '95/'96.... maybe some '97's have the plastic seperator. They realized what a bad idea it was and switched back to the aluminium. The NEW replacement one's are even better as they are stamped steel. I have pulled quite a few 90 through 94 EJ22's and never seen one of the old aluminium seperators leak. GD

The cables are typically dry-lubed with a powder. The inner sheath of the cable is nylon and once they begin to break down added lubrication is only a temporary fix. With OEM cables being very cheap I don't see the point in going to the trouble of a temp fix unless I'm in the sticks and I fear it's going to break on me (doesn't happen cause all my cables are new and/or get replaced at the first sign of "tightness"). GD

Interesting - yeah you might have something there. Make sure the shaft doesn't have a nasty groove in it where the lip on the seal was located. GD

Wait - I think you two are talking about different animals - he asked about the tranny mount but it sounds like Gloyale is talking about the engine cross-member.... You could fab your own cross-member for the tranny, but the EA82 version isn't going to mount into the EA81 radius rod plates very easily..... I suppose you could do the engine cross-member as Gloyale has done then use both GD

It could be a lot of things. Stripped hub, bad ball joints, bad axle joints..... it's really hard to tell from your description. I think you'll just have to tear into it and find out. It does sound like you may be in over your head if you have never replaced an axle before. It sounds like there may be more going on than just a bad axle. GD

Interesting. Didn't know the rods were forged on the EA82T's. Serves me right for not owning an EA82 FSM. GD

I've done a few - heater core on my 91 SS . And a couple other's - replaced a '90 cluster a few weeks ago for a fellow member as his was actually causing shifting issues with his automatic. Bad cluster. I've done a lot more than a few if you count EA81's and EA82's. They aren't all that different and actually the Legacy's are easier. Everything mostly snaps together. Hardest part is probably the speedo cable but it's much more accesible on the Legacy's. Just reach under the dash, grab and pull. GD

Despite what folks may say it's not bad at all. All the electrical connections can only fit one device, and there's only about a dozen screws total - most of which are interchangable. Only the one's on the top of the surround are specific. $180 is a total a$$ pounding. Stop by my shop and I would replace them all for $100 or less. It's about and hour plus the cost of the bulbs start to finish. GD

It's not bad - pull the surround, then the cluster. It's like a 20 minute job. Minus sourcing the bulbs of course. GD

Which one's? The one's in the cluster? Pull the cluster and replace the bulbs. They are accesible from the back. GD

If you ever get down Portland way I have a TON of used axles and parts. I have a heap of them in the shed. New one's are so cheap though that I rarely hit the used parts pile. Greasy, nasty mess that it is GD

Oh! Yes, the HTKYSA. I have that in digital form I thought you were talking about something I hadn't seen. I should have known that such a thing couldn't exist GD

As far as I know, all the stock EA internal's are cast. I don't beleive there is a forged bit in any of them. The crank and rods are rarely a concern anyway as they are both short and thick. The pistons are another matter of course - people have blown holes in them and collapsed ring lands, etc. I have NEVER heard of a broken crank, nor seen any evidence of a rod failure that wasn't precipitated by bearing insert failure. I have an EA81T crank and rods in my EA81 that I rebuilt. The only reason is because I got a deal on it from a member here that had already had all the machine work done and it came with undersized bearings, etc - the rest of his engine burned up in a garage fire so I got it on the cheap. They are cast parts though - that's for certain. GD

Yeah - the OEM thermostat and gasket is a much better product than the parts store crap. GD

We used to get a TON of questions on here about EA81 clutch cable replacement and a lot of very frustrated members - always getting the wrong cable from the parts guys and having a hell of a time installing them. Thus my install guide. It hasn't been a very popular subject in the last few years though. Probably a lot fewer EA81's left now. Used to be I could go to the yard and see half a dozen. Now it's a good day if I see a couple across several yards. GD

It's not easier if you want it done *right* - the camber issue has to be dealt with no matter if it's a 1" lift or a 10" lift. Thus plain spacer blocks cannot be used there. The steering linkage does have to be welded but a "kit" can be bolt on for a car without power steering - most vendors are going to at least want your old steering shaft as a core though. The power steering has a different linkage to the column and I don't know if anyone makes a bolt-in kit for those. It's really pretty simple to build your own kit. You can buy the steering and strut peices from somone that makes them and build the blocks yourself. 4"x2" sqaure tube with 1/4" wall thickness makes fine blocks - you just have your steel yard cut 2" sections for you - figure about $5 per block and another $5 per cut. Then you need either a drill press or a vise and a hand drill to punch out the bolt holes. You use your existing hardware to mount the blocks to the body and then buy new hardware to mount the drivetrain and suspension to the blocks. It can be really simple if you buy the strut/shock and steering bits. It's nice to be able to do a bit of welding yourself though - things like extending the shift linkage and shortening the throw.... etc. But buying all the tools to build your own is probably a bit much for most folks. You need a metal cutting bandsaw, welder, drill-press, etc.... If you want to do it right anyway. GD

No problem. I suppose my docs should be linked to the board somehow, but they aren't. I wrote that like 4 or 5 years ago. GD

I don't think I've seen this "Idiot's Guide".... is that a published item or an online resource? GD

They are always inserted with the head toward the pedal assembly frame. That's why you don't remove the clevis pin till AFTER you remove the clutch pedal from the assembly. It's a single E clip and the whole pedal slides off the end of the pivot.... You should read my clutch cable replacement guide: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html And you WANT an OEM cable. They are like $18. To the dealer my friend..... GD

Nothing need be done about it. Eyeball the bolts to the center of the holes and lock them down. Use blue loctite. The crank and flywheel are C flanged for centering. The holes being a bit large will not affect it in the least. GD

Those are about the only two. The only one I've ever seen "fling" oil off the crank is the front main. GD

It's pretty rare to see a clutch fork failure. Generally just a dab of grease and they are fine. I've seen plenty with 250k+ that were just fine. In other parts of the country, especially the rust belt, it's important to ensure the fork boot is in good condition. I get my clutch parts from a local discount house - they are typically OEM parts that are just repackaged. Sometimes I will only replace the disc, and both bearings as the pressure plate's don't fail unless they are down to the rivets on the disc. If things are badly worn I'll replace the pressure plate as well. The flywheel just have machined - $35 at my local shop and 15 minute turn-around. GD