GeneralDisorder

Not *the*, but definitely *one* of them. There are quite a few of us. Try eBay - there are quite a few recyclers that post engines and such. I shipped a short-block across the country for like $75 about a year ago. GD

That's EXACTLY what these do. They don't even seem to do it on side-streets *after* getting off the freeway - but that off-ramp makes them SING. The wheel vibrates a good inch in either direction. On the one's that have done this was it the front's that were to blame or the rear's? I had a constant pulse on my turbo that was the rear's..... The rotor's don't give me any clue - they are all about the same runout wise..... it *feels* like maybe it's from the front's but I can't be sure - my turbo felt like the front's too but after changing them it made zero difference. GD

The only good EA82 short block is the one on the end of the anchor chain..... Used engines are a dime a dozen. You probably won't find just the short-block - you'll have to buy a whole engine to get one most likely. GD

Which short block do you need? I'm lost in your post here - you are all over the map with EA82's and EJ25's...... GD

You won't find that easily in the EJ25 phase I. That's what fails the most on them besides head gaskets. Rod failure and piston slap are very common with that engine. Coupled with the terrible head gaskets - the EJ25 phase I is to be avoided at all costs or swapped out with an EJ22. GD

There's a 2.35L - that's an EJ22 with EJ25 crank and rods. Basically an EJ22 stroker. Not a factory engine though and typically not done unless you are planning to built an 800 HP monster turbo engine. GD

That's a tall order. You aren't going to find anything that doesn't need work for $500 or less. I'll be at around $800 when I'm done with the '91 I just bought and I only paid $250 for the car. And that's a DEAL. GD

'98 Forester would have a Phase I 2.5L - that's the EJ25 - stear WAY clear of that engine. '99 and up Forester's have the Phase II. There has never been a factory 2.3 or 2.4. EJ15, EJ16, EJ18, EJ20, EJ22, EJ25...... GD

I put the dial indicator on the rotors (bolted down to the hub with all 5 lug nuts), and the runout is between .002" and .0025" on all 4 rotors. Per my Haynes manual, the acceptable max runout is .0039" so I'm within the specs here. It doesn't seem to vibrate till the brakes heat up - are they just warping under the heat load because they are so thin - having been turned at least twice by the dealer? Or is the Haynes manual innacurate or the spec too wide? All pads are new - all slide pins greased. Lug nuts torqued to spec. ??!? GD

On non-turbo engines the stock intake is not restrictive enough to cause a problem. If there were better mileage to be had with a different intake then the engineer's would have made the change. That is why they aren't offered. Also there isn't a lot of money in aftermarket parts for N/A engines. The name of the game with Subaru is Turbo Charged AWD. Most people find out quick that they either just want a car that gets them from point A to point B or they want something they can tinker with - which means a turbo. You should be able to find a MAF adaptor for a cone filter. It will make the engine louder, but you won't increase HP or mileage to speak of. GD

It still requires an ignition source and unless you are a total moron you aren't going to be lighting a cigar while disconnecting fuel lines. And even if you drain the pressure off - you will still get fuel from the line when you disconnect it - as well as the filter being full of the stuff. No way, no how, are you going to avoid spilling at least a little bit of fuel while doing this. Thus you can talk flashpoint all day long but you don't see competant mechanic's blowing people's car's up on a regular basis because they didn't depressurize the fuel system - and I'm here to tell you that most don't. It's a waste of time. GD

Very likely - looks like an XT6 alt to me. Those are 90A but are harder to make fit the EA's. GD

All the Legacy 5 speed's I've torn down have the VC equipped center diff section. Including the '90 I dissasembled. Haven't had the good fortune to reassemble one yet - they have all been full of metal and failed bearings, etc. GD

You can find them for way less than $2,000 - I just bought a '91 sedan for $260 - needed an injector, brakes, and a wheel bearing - overdue for timing belts too but still - even with registration I'll be into the car like $600. Runs like a champ. GD

I would say the engine in your turbo wagon was replaced with one from a turbo XT. Only the XT's got the MPFI and MPFI-Turbo engines with multi-rib pulley's. Even the '90 Loyale RS Turbo was still using v-belts. Perhaps someone with an FSM can tell us if the XT's alternator was stiill 55A like the EA82T's in the rest of the body styles. I suspect it's rated the same they just had to switch to the multi-rib pulley and clearances with that belt arrangment dictated an enclosed-fan case. Looks very similar to the Maxima alt but a bit smaller as well as thinner in the mounting ears. GD

For the case halves it's going to call for a variant of 3-bond which you probably won't be able to source. It's a japanese brand of RTV but for flanged mating surfaces like these I prefer an anerobic sealant such as loctite 515 or 518. What do you need torque specs for? I don't have an FSM for the RX tranny specifically but I do have some that cover various transaxles. There isn't a lot inside these that requires super exact torque - no mechanical locks or gasket crush that I've seen. You should be able to use a standard torque table for the size/pitch of the threads you are working with. Any machinists handbook will have these. GD

I replaced the front's on my Turbo only to find no change to vibration (which really seemed like a front rotor kind of vibration), but it was the rear's all along. It seems to be the same with this '91 I'm working on now - the vibration seems like it's from the front but with the maintenance history and what I know from my turbo I'm betting it's actually the rear's. I'm going to actually check tomorrow with a dial indicator. GD

The EA82 rear's dont have a pressed in hub - they have an axle "stub" that slips through the bearings like the EA series front axles. The bearings are typically either a sealed unit or they are timken bearings that need to be packed. GD

XT's are the exception as they run multi-rib belt's & pulley's. I didn't realize they used an alt with a different case design. Still not 90A though. GD

Yeah - pretty much everything you can see on the exhaust is heat sheild so don't worry about it being loose. You do also have a bunch of rust though and the deterioration will continue - ultimately you'll end up with an exhaust leak somewhere. GD

I don't tend to experience this on my cars but after having bought a few Legacy's over the years I've noticed a tendancy for them to warp rotors. I've replaced: '94 Legacy GT Wagon: warped front rotors @ 165k. '91 Legacy Turbo SS: warped rear rotors (vented) @ 160k. I now have another '91 Legacy sedan that likely has warped rear's @ 215k and it's had this problem before. I'll put the dial indicator on it tomorrow and find out for sure, but according to the maintenance reccords the rears have been turned before for this issue and were "too thin to take a third turn!" according to the reccords from the dealer. I put all new pads on today and only then could I tell the rotors were warped as it was down to the backing plates on the old pads. What's the deal with these? Is this a pretty consistent issue? I've never had a problem with rotors warping on EA's - to the point that I almost never actually replaced a set - just pads and sometimes have them turned. With all this warping though I would be leary of taking material off an already thin design GD

I don't even remove the trailing arm from the car. I just drift them out and in with the arm still attached - no need for an alignment that way. I'm all about the quick and dirty (but doing the job right). GD

Talked with my friend - his box doesn't do DC unfortunately but depending on how the high-freq box is setup it may work with an AC box. He claims there are "much better" TIG machines out now....... I'm sure he will help though - he's just being high and mighty. He has a $2500 Lincoln sqaure wave at work. I'll PM you maybe later this weekend or next week. I have been aquireing quite a few gen 1 legacy's over the last few years and I have a good stash of parts now. GD

I still am not totally clear on your explanation - if you are saying that the pipe is cracked and thus "loose" at the red dotted line you drew then just weld it - I've had several like that and a good solid weld fixes them right up. I've done EA81's and EJ22's alike - they often crack at one of the junctions between the y-pipe and the cat. Poor weld quality of brittle welds due to the stainless cat housing. GD

Yeah - that's not the right picture. I'm not sure what that goes to but it's not an EA82T. Might be an XT6 alt but even at that it doesn't look right. And just because it's got a multi-rib pulley does NOT mean it runs a serpentine belt. Multi-rib belts are generally *used* in serpentine applications but there are many applications that don't as well - look at the EJ22's for example - multi-rib yes - serpentine no. GD