GeneralDisorder

Yeah - that's a call we can't make for you. I deal with things the same way - if it's not right I won't let it go out the door. Give the guy your honest opinion of it. Would YOU trust it on a 100+ mile trip? Also - it's a used car. You can only do so much and you can't see into the future. Anything could go wrong. He should know this. GD

At the bottom of my SPFI conversion document, there are links to the EA82 FSM sections dealing with the SPFI and all the diagnostic codes. Download them and you'll have all the information you need: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

I would probably have measured the hole and the opened it up a bit with a proper sized drill bit. All these "new" replacement axles are made in China. Doesn't surprise me. I stick with the EMPI stuff personally, but it's not always the easiest for people to find. GD

EA81 head gaskets are simple, cute little things. Like working on a lawn-mower. If you learned how to walk and can form complete sentences..... you should do fine. GD

Have you ever done an EA82 timing belt before? It's about a 3 hour job if you have done it before and the belt covers are in place. Give yourself an afternoon if you have never done it before and make sure you have all the parts you need.... might want to just buy a new oil pump.... in case. GD

www.rockauto.com GD

Check the o-ring under the distributor block-off plate on the rear of the passenger side head. GD

Definitely sounds like a gen 1 carb. You might try asking in the Historic Forum for where people get kits for them. I've only ever rebuild the EA81 and EA82 Hitachi's (DCP 306's and DCZ 328's IIRC). GD

Most likely it's the front main seal then. That would throw a lot of oil - I've had them go out before. I sugest you just do a complete timing belt/water pump/front seal job on it. The kit's are gonzo cheap off ebay and it would be silly not to do everything while you are in there. Pull the oil pump as well and inspect it for damage - get a seal kit from the dealer.... sounds like you have a bit of lifter tick mixed in there as well so better safe on the pump and pump seals. When you do the water pump, also do the heater core bypass hose. It's a major biotch to get at if you have to change it later. GD

Only the '85/'86 EA82 disc will fit in the EA81 PP opening. It has to have the small, round center spring section to fit. The '87+ discs have a sqaured-off spring section that doesn't fit at all. GD

If the threads are good in the heads (if they aren't, heli-coil them), then this shouldn't be a problem. The trick is to have a good OEM gasket that has some "spring" to it, and to have either good lock washers or whiz-nuts that resist loosening. I would replace your gaskets with a dealer set, get some whiz-nuts in 10x1.25, and probably heli-coil the heads being that they have worked loose so many times. The Aluminium threads in the heads don't last long once the studs have been in/out a dozen times. GD

It's not a notice of service. It's telling you there is a problem with the EGR temp sensor or circuit. Being that the EGR is working we can assume that the temp sensor or the wiring to it is damaged or carbon has blocked up the EGR passage. The SPFI has no "service notification" functions whatsoever. It will tell you if there is a problem within it's limited capability to self-diagnose. Beyond that you are on your own for service. Your Brat is an EA81 with a carb. That's a completely different animal than a Loyale and the ECS light comes on every 60k miles to indicate that the EGR should be checked for proper operation. I don't know how much of a gimick this was "to get people to bring them in" or if it was some kind of mandate through the government. At any rate your Subaru "master" is correct - the three connectors will be around the steering column area two blue's and a green or two greens and a blue IIRC. Unplug the set that's connected and plug in whichever one fits the vacant plug. That will reset the light for another 60k. GD

Some are, and some are not. Being a Loyale it's probably the single peice unit that's sealed, yes. ....why would that matter for replacement? GD

Pull the crank pulley and timing belt covers and locate the exact source of the leak. Could be the front main seal or an oil pump seal. GD

Sounds like the old pump is just tired. Glad you figured out the problem and your tank isn't a rust ball - that would be a much worse problem to have to deal with. GD

You need to post in the wanted forum. GD

Gen 1/2 transmissions are mostly compatible. You have to change the switches so the wireing matches the car it's going into, and the Gen 2's have a different transfer case section that has mounting points for the exhaust hanger. I just put a '93 transmission into a '96 and had to fab a new exhaust hanger for the #2 cat section. Also the linkage is different - you have to use the linkage adaptor (the peice that's roll-pinned to the shift rod) from the car the linkage came from. These are manual transmissions I'm talking about. Also the driveline and rear diff are different. The driveline's rear flange is larger with a different bolt pattern than the Gen 1. Obviously the diff matches so the flange on the diff is different as well. The rear cover on the diff has longer studs as well. In order to swap diffs (early trans is 4.11) I had to transfer the input flange, rear cover, and change the spider gears in the carrier to the clip-in style for the '96 axles. GD

It's as simple as electrical gets - it's a resistive circuit. Probably two wires. If you take a look at the SPFI section of the service manual over at my SPFI conversion document, you will be able to find out which pin is responsible for telling the ECU if it has the EGR temp function or not. Then it's just a matter of grounding or not grounding that pin. GD

Any SPFI ECU will work. Try to stick with a GL ECU (rather than a Loyale), and one with the same style tranny as your's. Good chance you fried the ECU. That's a noted issue in the factory service manual. I would try the wanted forum. Lots of folks here that can get ECU's and fusibile links from yards. GD

It's going to be electrical one way or another. The sensor (if it's present) is an electrical sensor. If the EGR is working then the sensor is bad or the circuit is damaged. There's no reason to pay a shop to do anything - just fix the sensor or circuit, or disable the EGR temp function in the ECU. GD

I would call rockford and find out. I am sure they can be sourced. GD

You need to connect the read mode connectors to see the codes. Should be next to the green one's but they are black or maybe white. Connect them and turn the ignition on - then you will get the codes. GD

Yeah - tell me about it I just got done pulling an engine this morning only to find the parts store that my customer got the clutch kit at botched the throwout bearing. Kit looked fine but when I opened the box for the throwout I got a nice surprise - wrong part! Of course they aren't open on Sunday's so I'm stuck till tomorrow with the engine hanging from the hoist. Glad you are unstuck though. I've had only some small tastes of what the rust-belt can do. I've worked on a few that spent a couple years out there but nothing that's spent it's entire life there. GD

If you have power at the coil (and it's good) and no spark from the distributor then your problem is very likely the ignition module. I would pick up a used distributor and give that a try. GD

I've wondered about that part myself - call the dealer and ask. It may not be sold seperate from the distributor. Also - if you find a good used one just apply a liberal amount of vasaline to it. Will keep it from breaking down and keep it water-tight. You can also use a latex glove - put it around the distributor with a rubber band and poke the wires through the fingers. GD