GeneralDisorder

That's why an impact is beneficial. The shock treatment will often break them loose without twisting the head off. GD

They aren't 4 wheel hand-brake's. They only work on the front wheels so if you disconnect them you won't have a parking brake at all. If you do the rear disc brake conversion and use calipers from a 240 SX you can rig up a rear parking brake. GD

That document cover's the 3 speed automatic governor. The 4 speed doesn't use a governor as it is electronically shifted. GD

I haven't had an issue with the aftermarket's either but then I don't put a ton of miles on any given rig since I have so many.... and I generally use high quality stuff unless I'm in a pinch - Beck Arnley parts are very often repackaged OEM, and I get a lot of japanese made parts from my favorite aftermarket import parts house. They don't seem to carry ANY cheap parts at all. The only water/oil pump's they carry are the OEM's, etc. But the prices are usually right inline with like Autozone and the other ultra-cheap parts houses that sell korean and chinese parts. GD

Excelent - glad you don't have to get rid of the car! Always nice to know that all that stuff is new anyway. Good work on keeping at it till you found the issue. GD

Find a Snap-On or Matco truck. Either could probably have it in a day if they don't have one on the truck. I don't know about Mac but probably.... I bought mine from Matco as they are impact rated and an impact is OFTEN needed to get them loose. You MUST get a 1/4" drive as no 3/8" drive socket will fit. The Snap-On one's I've seen aren't impact socket's but I doubt that matters much. Other's on here have reported that a 6 point of some normal size will usually work to get them off as well. I haven't tried. I bought two of the E10's so I have one for my primary tool box and another in my junk-yard bag. GD

Are those the child seat mounts? Might explain the oddball size.... GD

You will have to remove the seat bottom to get at them. There are 4 12mm bolts that hold the bottom to the car.... Wait - does this have shoulder belts in the rear? If so you are going to have to remove the trim to get to the retractors. GD

Torque bind is not an issue with the part-time manual transaxles. They are either in 4WD or not in 4WD. The engagement system is a shift dog just like any other gear and there is no center diff or TC. Actually - I guess you could say that torque bind is *normal* for a PT4WD tranny as they can't be driven on dry surfaces in 4WD anyway unless you are only going straight. As for your brakes - sound like the caliper's need their slides greased or the rear drums are out of adjustment. To adjust the HH - adjust the clutch first. Then adjust the HH cable till it's just tight - barely pulling on the return spring. That's usually right on. Sometimes on the EA's they like to be a little tighter. Try it out on a hill and make sure it releases right as the clutch starts to drag. HH controls one front and one rear wheel (IE - one of the two diagonal circuits). GD

Yeah - I don't think the O2 would drop it that much either. I have seen them bad enough that the engine wouldn't run but that was with a feedback carb EA81. Probably just a fluke with that primitive ECU..... The CTS is a good sugestion.... perhaps the CTS is reporting cold and the O2 is reporting lean as well. Leaking injectors? GD

I only buy safety tipped shoes and boots now. I don't get a lot of selection but I like being able perambulate.... and no one talks about my unfashionable shoes - too busy checking out my super fashionable Carhartt Bibs I suppose GD

Yep - only '95/'96.... maybe some '97's have the plastic seperator. They realized what a bad idea it was and switched back to the aluminium. The NEW replacement one's are even better as they are stamped steel. I have pulled quite a few 90 through 94 EJ22's and never seen one of the old aluminium seperators leak. GD

The cables are typically dry-lubed with a powder. The inner sheath of the cable is nylon and once they begin to break down added lubrication is only a temporary fix. With OEM cables being very cheap I don't see the point in going to the trouble of a temp fix unless I'm in the sticks and I fear it's going to break on me (doesn't happen cause all my cables are new and/or get replaced at the first sign of "tightness"). GD

Interesting - yeah you might have something there. Make sure the shaft doesn't have a nasty groove in it where the lip on the seal was located. GD

Wait - I think you two are talking about different animals - he asked about the tranny mount but it sounds like Gloyale is talking about the engine cross-member.... You could fab your own cross-member for the tranny, but the EA82 version isn't going to mount into the EA81 radius rod plates very easily..... I suppose you could do the engine cross-member as Gloyale has done then use both GD

It could be a lot of things. Stripped hub, bad ball joints, bad axle joints..... it's really hard to tell from your description. I think you'll just have to tear into it and find out. It does sound like you may be in over your head if you have never replaced an axle before. It sounds like there may be more going on than just a bad axle. GD

Interesting. Didn't know the rods were forged on the EA82T's. Serves me right for not owning an EA82 FSM. GD

I've done a few - heater core on my 91 SS . And a couple other's - replaced a '90 cluster a few weeks ago for a fellow member as his was actually causing shifting issues with his automatic. Bad cluster. I've done a lot more than a few if you count EA81's and EA82's. They aren't all that different and actually the Legacy's are easier. Everything mostly snaps together. Hardest part is probably the speedo cable but it's much more accesible on the Legacy's. Just reach under the dash, grab and pull. GD

Despite what folks may say it's not bad at all. All the electrical connections can only fit one device, and there's only about a dozen screws total - most of which are interchangable. Only the one's on the top of the surround are specific. $180 is a total a$$ pounding. Stop by my shop and I would replace them all for $100 or less. It's about and hour plus the cost of the bulbs start to finish. GD

It's not bad - pull the surround, then the cluster. It's like a 20 minute job. Minus sourcing the bulbs of course. GD

Which one's? The one's in the cluster? Pull the cluster and replace the bulbs. They are accesible from the back. GD

If you ever get down Portland way I have a TON of used axles and parts. I have a heap of them in the shed. New one's are so cheap though that I rarely hit the used parts pile. Greasy, nasty mess that it is GD

Oh! Yes, the HTKYSA. I have that in digital form I thought you were talking about something I hadn't seen. I should have known that such a thing couldn't exist GD

As far as I know, all the stock EA internal's are cast. I don't beleive there is a forged bit in any of them. The crank and rods are rarely a concern anyway as they are both short and thick. The pistons are another matter of course - people have blown holes in them and collapsed ring lands, etc. I have NEVER heard of a broken crank, nor seen any evidence of a rod failure that wasn't precipitated by bearing insert failure. I have an EA81T crank and rods in my EA81 that I rebuilt. The only reason is because I got a deal on it from a member here that had already had all the machine work done and it came with undersized bearings, etc - the rest of his engine burned up in a garage fire so I got it on the cheap. They are cast parts though - that's for certain. GD

Yeah - the OEM thermostat and gasket is a much better product than the parts store crap. GD