GeneralDisorder

Cables aren't worth the metal they are made from. They might fit, but you are better off getting a set of real chains. A few miles and those things will fly apart for sure. Cables are really a last ditch emergency sort of deal. GD

I've done a lot of head gaskets and I've never stripped one yet. Your experience is not typical. The history on your engine is probably to blame. It is relatively easy to heli-coil all of them when it's apart. I haven't needed to do it, but other's here have. If nothing is warped, it probably won't blow the head gasket if a single stud is stripped. Many engines don't have but 4 studs around each cylinder. The Subaru engines have 5. GD

Exhaust leak before the turbine would limit boost. Turbo going south (bearing) wouldn't help either. A leak in the wastegate flapper could cause too much exhaust bypassing the turbine..... 10psi is about the safe limit of the stock EA82T. The VF7 blows too hot much above that. GD

For the choke, just get out your DMM, and find which one of the terminals going to the old carb has 12v. You might have inadvertantly grounded the wire while working on it and blew the fuse too. The electric choke should work fine from the 12v supply to the carter/weber's electric choke. That's how I've always hooked them up. GD

You still need BOTH the 1/4" line and the 5/8" line from the passenger side head going to the air filter. The way you have it there, fresh air is only supplied to the system via the single small line of the "F" fitting. You need a positive flow, and that requires that one side have more air availible than the other. Like this: Here I used a fitting and hose from another earlier model of Subaru, but the effect is the same. The passenger side head gets full airflow via the 5/8" line. The 1/4" ID line is only a vacuum breaker to prevent too much suction from pulling oil out of the driver's side valve cover. In other words it allows positive flow, but regulates it with a 1/4" ID orifice GD

Just pull the whole knuckle/strut out completely. It's really pretty simple. GD

Replace the solenoid with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor. That will permanently fix the problem. You don't need the EGR solenoid. GD

That doesn't tell you much. It just tells you to run a leak-down test to determine the real problem. Be sure you are running the test properly..... disconnect fuel pump, run till the engine stops, all plugs out, throttle fully open, crank for 5 comp. strokes of the cylinder being tested..... GD

Yeah - he means unscrew it to check/change the jet. Nice job in the install. Your PCV is wrong though - there should only be a 5/8" line from the air cleaner to the passenger side valve cover. The line from the driver's side should go to the "F" fitting and then the 1/4" line goes to the air filter and the other 5/8" line goes to the PCV valve. The 1/4" line is a vacuum breaker that allows it to not suck oil into the filter but still retain a positivle flow from passenger valve cover, through the crankcase, then out the driver's side cover. There won't be any positive flow the way you currently have it. GD

That will almost certainly have rear drums. The one in my driveway that I'm about to sell does ('96 L sedan). GD

Watch out on the brakes - some of the Gen 2 stuff had rear drums. The gen 1's only had rear disc's that I've seen but perhaps there were low end models with drums.... I've always figured the Loyale was in that niche. GD

'83 EA81 hatch ~240k, Weber, one cylinder with low compression..... 26 MPG in mixed driving. Drive it like I stole it everywhere I go. 32 MPG freeway only, 55 to 65 MPH. I don't drive like grandma, but pretty sane. My '85 Brat, EA81 w/Weber was better in mixed driving (27 to 29), but a bit less on the freeway (heavier, poor drag coeficient). GD

Pull the sending unit and take a look inside. You may be able to do a partial clean through the sending unit hole on the back of the tank. There is also a drain plug on the bottom of the tank - that will help. GD

I've never needed a regulator of any kind with the Weber's. Typically the common cheap regulators need 10+ psi on the high side to work at all. I've used Subaru SPFI pump's on Weber's with a regulator. 50 psi down to 3 psi at the carb. Leave the EGR and hook it to the late ported vacuum port on the front of the Weber (if it's a newer one, the port will be blocked with a small brass screw). GD

1. Pull #1 plug. 2. Rotate engine till you feel the cylinder compressing air past your finger (comp. stroke, both valves closed). 3. Rotate flywheel till marks come into view and set pointer on 20* BTDC 4. Install distributor with rotor pointing at whichever plug tower you wish to be #1. 5. Install wires starting with #1 and working in a counter-clockwise order. Fireing order is 1,3,2,4 6. Start engine (put the #1 plug back in dummy!) and fine tune with timing light and diagnostic connectors plugged together. GD

You can't do that on the front. u-joint's are NOT constant velocity. That means they have to be run at equal but opposite angles on either end of the shaft in order to cancel out the velocity changes that the joint experiences. You MUST use some form of constant velocity joint on the outboard end of the front axles or you won't be able to steer the car without severe and dangerous vibration. That's pointless. Then it's not a Subaru anymore and you might as well USE the CJ5/7 in the first place. The whole reason the Subaru 4WD system is innovative and different is exactly because it was one of the first independant 4WD systems that was mass marketed and inexpensive. Take that away and you have a rather mundane example of Japanese engineering that's not nearly as refined as similar vintage products from Datsun/Nissan or Toyota. If I were going to put solid axles under a Japanese car I would rathe it be a Maxima or something. GD

One of the Chrysler divisions called it "Sublime", but I can't recall which at the moment. GD

I would do a used clutch, but my time is valuable too, and the time to pull one vs. the cost..... I paid about $65 for a new disc and I used a used PP that was on a car at the yard that had the transmission already out of it.... worn disc though. I wouldn't use used pilot or release bearings unless it was pretty obvious they were fairly recently replaced. Too far to go back in and replace them and again - not enough profit for the potential backlash. I did use used axles - rebooted one of the original's ($24) and put in a used one with good boots on the other side. But there's no way I'm going to put in a used timing belt, water pump, or idler/tensioner bearings. I can't give the buyer the correct maintenance interval if I do that. If they are due to be serviced or are failing (as is the case with this car), and I install used parts here - I can't give an honest idea of when they should be replaced in the future. That's called integrity - something I'm not willing to sell at any price. If I end up doing a lot of these, I suspect much of my business will be word of mouth. And any potential savings from using used/substandard parts will be eaten up in poor reviews of my product. I want people to come back to me for repairs and to send their friends and relatives to me for some business. You don't build a customer base by selling a mediocre product.. That's my philosophy. We'll see how it works in practice.... GD

Like I said - don't sweat the Loyale. I've cut up a few nice examples just out of pure spite. Nice starter car for you, but the EA81 you are getting is a much better Subaru to be in. You'll want a 5 speed swap and a Weber. Those are going to be your two most pressing needs with it. Jerry (bratsrus1) in Yakima makes a kit to put the 5 speed D/R in the EA81. Nice guy - he'll set you up right. GD

And you go to school with the kid! Hope he's not too bitter. Don't want another Columbine Get yourself a Weber with some of the money. You'll be wanting it - trust me. GD

That's great. No great loss on that Loyale. One less EA82 (and a high mileage one at that).... no one will notice. You are in a much better rig now. That kid is going to love his insurance rate's after that stunt. I wish one would plow into me too..... GD

The bell-housing is part of the engine, not the transmission. Or were you talking about swapping the transmission to the side-starter? GD

Yeah - someday I'll be geared up to do it. Let me think on the tool list. I'll try to come up with something. I generally take several tool bags and sometimes a caddy (the woman) to help carry them. GD

You can make it work with the EA81 flyhweel, EA82 disc and PP. You have to have the EA81 flywheel resurfaced to the EA82 specs. The step is different - thus why you have no clamping force with stock parts. Any shop that resurfaces them should be able to do it. Otherwise you have to use flywheel/PP combinations that go together (EA81/EA81 or EA82/EA82) and only swap the disc. But as Bill noted above, you have to use a very specific EA82 disc in order to fit into the EA81 pressure plate..... GD

A 5 speed cable will work as well. They are very similar if not exactly the same. About $15 at the dealer. GD