GeneralDisorder

Most of the WRX/STi stuff is similar. The STi uses the same up-pipe (same part number even). There are lots of aftermarket options for them that aren't cast iron like the stock peices. There are even equal length options, single peice 4-2-1 style, etc, etc. Ask what folks have used over on legacycentral.org. That's the place for EJ22T talk. GD

I listed all the parts you need for the reseal in my previous list above. As for the valve covers.... I don't replace them unless they are cooked and brittle. I carefully remove them, apply RTV to the groove they sit in, put them back into the valve cover and then apply RTV to the outside of the gasket. I also apply RTV to the inside and outside of each bolt grommet. Saves me money and lasts longer than a new set of valve cover gaskets. If I were buying them I would get them from the dealer - they don't last very long as it is - I can't imagine what chinese one's would be like :-\ GD

So I'm going to do timing belt, WP, etc on this '96 Legacy. It's got single port heads.... Now I've always been under the impression that single port heads = phase-II EJ22's. Am I wrong on this? I go on ebay to look at timing belt kits and they list 90 through 96, and then 3/1997 and up for kits. The tensioner is radically different between the two from what I can see of the pictures. Has the engine been swapped on this car? What's the deal? Were there some phase-I's with single port heads? Were there phase-II's with the phase-I belt system? What is going on here? I would like to order the kit before I tear into it - keeping it driveable and thus out of my garage and out of my way till the kit arrives. Also I have a buyer comming to drive the car tomorrow so I can't tear it apart and see what's in there...... GD

The Fel-Pro kit is full of crappy gaskets - especially the intake and exhaust. You DO NOT want to use the Fel-Pro intake gaskets as they seal the coolant ports on the heads. The Fel-Pro one's are just cardboard and they suck. The OEM gaskets are neoprene over metal. Big difference in quality. As I said - Fel-Pro ONLY for the head gaskets. You don't want the rest of their garbage. Been there, done that. For the extra $50 it's going to cost you, you WANT the stuff from the dealer. Trust me on this one. GD

Just get a used one - you absolutely sure it's the fan motor? Might be the thermo-switch. Have your dad put 12v to the fan and see if it turns. They rarely fail. The "blower motor" is the fan for the HVAC system in the cabin. The fan for the radiator is a "Cooling system fan", or "Radiator fan". GD

According to your picture, it's definitely throttle body just like your's. I can see the fuel pressure regulator line from the TB for one thing, and for another I can see the SPFI's wireing harness connector. I wrote the guide for converting carbs to SPFI, so I know them all-to-well. GD

The price difference between ebay and local suppliers is quite large. I would check prices before you commit to buying anything local. GD

Yeah - but the fuel system shouldn't be much different. Maybe some small differences in the connectors and such but there weren't any big differences in the SPFI over the years. GD

50/50 front/rear when the diff is locked. Otherwise there is no torque split. The power goes to whichever wheel has the least traction. The RX transmission has a fully open center differential with no traction aids whatsoever. It should have a rear limited slip diff but that won't help you if a front wheel is off the ground (unless you lock-in). Unless it's a 4 speed automatic RX? In which case it's variable depending on the duty-c solenoid. GD

If there is power at the blower motor, then the motor is bad or has no ground. GD

Here's my parts list: 1. Fel-Pro head gaskets (just the gaskets). ~$16 each from Autozone. 2. OEM (dealership) intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, cam carrier o-ring (metal reinforced), oil pump seal kit, oil pan gasket (coat all sides in RTV to make it "rubberized"), cam and crank seals. Valve cover seals and bolt seals if you choose to replace them - I typically just clean and RTV the old one's as new one's will just leak in short order anyway. Rear main seal if you choose to replace it (not a common failure - they usually fail when someone replaces one for "maintenance" ) 3. Complete timing belt kit from ebay. Reason being they are plenty good enough quality to last the typical 50k service interval. If this were an EJ I would be buying at least the belt at the dealer. The chinese stuff is fine for the EA82's though so long as you replace the entire kit every 50k (might as well for the price). 4. Paraut water pump. This is the OEM brand. I buy them from a discount parts house as it's about half the price or less than the dealer. Check rockauto.com or thepartsbin.com maybe. What I mean about the timing belt is that if it's improperly installed, no mechanical damage will result. In most modern engines the valves and pistons (or valves and valves ) will hit each other if the timing is wrong. This is not the case with the EA82 - it just won't run right. GD

There's probably many threads discussing it. I know I've outlined it a couple times. I don't know of a specific write-up for head gaskets although there is a couple floating around for the timing belts. The head gaskets themselves aren't real tricky. The part that gives folks the most trouble is installing the timing belts as there are two of them and it's an unusual arrangment for timing belts in general. Clean the block mating surface real well, have the heads surfaced and torque them properly. Make sure the lifters are solid and put them back in the locations they came from. Don't forget to replace the cam-tower o-ring with a new one FROM THE DEALER. Other than that - it's not a real tricky procedure. If you or your dad or whoever is doing it has done a head gasket on anything in the past it's very similar. The timing belt is a bit obscure but the engine is non-interferance so it's not like you are going to hurt anything if it's put on wrong. GD

The comprimise: Two vehicles. One for fun, and one for a DD. The money you save in fuel and tires will pay for the extra vehicle. Plus you have a "nice" car for when you want to take the woman to dinner vs. a muddy wreck of a vehicle that makes you look like a hillbilly. GD

What Gary says is very true. The crappy thing about transmission swaps is that it takes half a dozen of them before you get really proficient at it. Some things I've noticed: 1. Disconnect the wireing, upper bell-housing bolts, starter, clutch cables, etc (and on EJ's remove the cable bracket and dog-bone bracket from the tranny) BEFORE you put the car on jack stands. The height required to easily get the tranny out makes this stuff hard to access while the car is in the air. 2. Drop the exhaust, and remove the driveline, then drain the transmission. Knock out the roll pins from the axle's. Drop the transmission cross-member and let the tranny hang down in the back - as you do so drain the remainder of the gear oil into a pan from the rear output. Disconnect the linkage. 3. Use the pitching stopper to angle the engine backward, or on EJ's shim the engine with a few blocks of wood against the radiator fans. Then use a jack to just take the weight off the engine and allow you to pull it backward and off the alignment pins. This often requires a bit of persuasion with a long screwdriver near the pins. Once clear, pull the tranny back till it clears the studs on the bottom of the bell-housing. 4. Shift the tranny first to one side and then the other to remove the axle's from the stubs. Doing it this way makes for less work as you don't have to remove the wheels, or take the control arms loose, etc. 5. Lower the tranny out of the tunnel and roll it on it's side to clear the engine cross-member and pull it out the front of the vehicle. If you have the HF tranny jack that I mentioned, the tranny will roll onto it's side without falling off the jack with minimal effort. It's really pretty easy once you get the proccess down. I can have a tranny out and a new one in typically in about 4 hours if I don't run into anything unusual. GD

The carb fuel pump will need to supply the surge tank. You need two complete loops - one for the surge tank supply/return, and another for the FI supply and return. So 4 connections total to the tank and it's critical that they be located in the right places. Make sure that the tank return is at the top, and the FI supply is an inch or so off the bottom so sediment doesn't clog the port. GD

Yep - that's the one. Pull out the orange nozzle thing. I always do anyway. I disconnect them at the firewall and run the line from the carb directly to it. The Hitachi return line barb has a tiny little orifice in it already. I don't know what the deal was with that orange bit, but they all run fine without it. When I say where the lines are located I am talking about the steel hard-lines comming out of the firewall. The hoses are ancillery and I generally replace them anyway. GD

That's true for the AWD cars - the 4EAT is capable of locking into 50/50 torque split like a true 4WD. The 5 speed's can't do this although they generally are more fun to drive. The new 6 speed's can with the DCCD though and they are really the ultimate Subaru transmission for stock-height rigs - stronger too. If it's snow capability you are after - the 4WD 5 speed D/R can't be beat. Unfortunately not a simple fit into the OBS. GD

No one really makes a "tough" 13" tire unless maybe in the ATV world. 13" is way out of date and the most you will find is maybe an agressive snow tire. Even then, they won't be more than a 2 ply sidewall though. If you want serious tires you are going to have to move into ATV tires (not street legal) or go with like a 15" rim and get some Interco's (some lift generally advisable). GD

There's a direct short in one of the circuits supplied by that fuse. You'll have to find out what all runs from that fuse and start tracing wires and disconnecting things to track down the short. It's probably something pinching a wire agains the body somewhere. Improperly installed trim and badly routed wireing can cause that. GD

The links for your pics are broken.... The return and evap lines are about the same size. The evap line is about 2" to the right of the fuel supply. The return line is 8 or 10 inches to the left of it. GD

Not 31 degree's here yet, but looks like I'm going to be working in a cold garage this winter. Don't think I'll be able to afford to heat it much. I would like to install a small wood-stove, but it's finding the time to do it more than anything that's going to be hard. I guess it's time to invest in long-underwear again GD

4WD? 4 speed? Assuming yes to both, what mileage? If it's in decent condition, with less than 200k, I would say around $750 to $1000. Excelent condition with exceptionally low mileage - maybe closer to $2000. The Hatch is desireable for those wanting to lift them. But other than that there really isn't much market for a 1984 Subaru unless it's a Brat. The problem won't be finding someone that wants it - the problem will be finding someone that wants it AND has the money. The thing is - they are worth a bit more than the other body styles to the right person, but most of those people are also cheap and will just wait till one shows up on craigslist for $250 with a bad clutch cable (how I got my '83)..... you are at a disadvantage because most of the people selling them have no idea they are worth anything, so it's still fairly easy in the NW to wait a few months and pick one up for cheap. GD

Many folks end up blocking the passage. A bit of window screening and some JB weld seems to do the trick well. I've never had to block one. Most recently I've been installing the adaptor plate's with no gasket - I use Loctite 515/518 flange sealant and I use 242 on the bolts. The key is to get the mating surfaces COMPLETELY clean. I use a brown 3M pad in a die-grinder to polish the manifold mating surface down to bare aluminium. Been working well for me anyway. GD

Yeah - '82 is a weird year. Not so weird that I won't buy one like the 80/81...... but still a transistion year. GD

I'm not sure I understand.... the engine won't need to be secured - you can shim the engine away from the radiator - it's beneficial to rock them backward farther than normal so the transmission hangs down at an angle. You can either put a block between the top of the radiator and the engine, or you can put a jack with a 2x4 or similar under the oil-pan to push the engine back. Just make sure you use something like a 8" long bit of 2x4 under the pan to spread the weight of the jack. GD