GeneralDisorder

That bumper is off a single sealed-beam car as they have the turn-signals outboard of the headlights. You should have a GL bumper that has the turn signals in it. If you put orange lamps in the side-markers they do better as turn signals. GD

Do you have a multi-meter? They are $2.99 on sale at Harbor Freight and are invaluable for stuff like this. Take a reading between the battery negative and the back of the alternator (the output lug). You should see 14.5 volts DC +/- 0.25 VDC. Then take a reading between the battery positive and the back of the alt. That will give you the voltage drop between the two. You should see less than 0.25 VDC here. If you see more - like 1 or 2 VDC or more - then you have a bad connection somewhere between the output lug and the main junction (fusible links), or between the main junction and the battery. Then set the meter for AC voltage (yes that's alternating house current). Take another reading from the battery negative and the back of the alt. You should see almost nothing. If you are getting more than 1 or 2 volts of AC current then your alternator has a bad rectifier. If all those are OK, then you may have a bad battery lead going to ground or to the starter (check resistance and INSPECT the cables where they are attached to the lugs). Bad connections due to corrosion of the aluminium wires is common. If all your connections look good you may have a bad battery. This may or may not be due to a bad alternator or bad connection (see above). GD

The evap line is next to the fuel supply line (smaller of the two). The return line is to the left of the steering shaft about 8 or 10 inches from the supply/evap lines. Don't block it unless you install a vented tank cap. That's the only way the tank vent's and you'll cause a vacuum in the tank if you block it. EA82's are completely different so don't bother taking a pic for him. GD

When you search that site, bring up the parts listing for an '86 RX (or any year RX for that matter), and select the axle that says "25 Spline I.B." Looks like they are $85. Not bad although my local dealer in EMPI axles is cheaper by a little bit. Last set of EA82's I bought were $65 each. They list them for $80 so about $15 more per. You might check around your area for an EMPI dealer (places that specialize in air-cooled VW's are a good place to start - that's where I get mine). GD

Hhhhmm - for some reason you link to the NASIOC search doesn't work Rob. Here's what I know from my research. Subaru changed the injector style on their Turbo's to a style similar to that of the non-turbo's durring the time that we didn't get any of their turbo engines for the US market. So that the old EJ22T injectors are different than the newer EJ20T and EJ25T injectors that are on the WRX/STi and other turbo models. That means that in order to interchange the injectors from the newer turbo's to the EJ22T, you have to change the fuel rail. What you need is the NON-Turbo fuel rail from a 93 or 94 EJ22. These will allow you to install newer turbo injectors on the EJ22T and will bolt up to the fuel system of the EJ22T. Just get a used set from the junk yard or ask if anyone has a set over on www.legacycentral.org. If you aren't making any modifications to the engine, try to stick with injectors that are rated at about the same CC's or you will have to change them all, and change the fuel pressure to match which is going to make it more difficult than just a simple parts swap - it would have to be tuned with probably at least a wideband. The other option is to get a used set of 22T injectors and have them rebuilt and flow-tested. A wise investment if you don't plan to otherwise mod the car. GD

I don't know of any "tests" you can do. Unless your clutch cable is too tight then slipping is going to have something to do with the clutch and you'll have to open it up. When you tear it down - check the flywheel step with a caliper or a depth gauge if you have one. There can be quite a bit of wear to the flywheel surface and it may not be immediately apparent. I just replaced the clutch in a Legacy and the flywheel looked like it had a machined step in it but it was all wear - probably .005" to .010" of wear. Not that this would be enough to make it slip, but it wouldn't help matters any. If, for example, your flywheel was improperly machined the last time the clutch was replaced, and subsequently has worn further - leading you to beleive you needed to replace the clutch.... you see where this goes? You HAVE to measure stuff. This is why I own calipers, depth gauges, mic's, dial indicators, etc. Without measurement, you just don't know what will happen when you put stuff together. When I get a flywheel back from the machine guys, I ALWAYS check them. I've never had a problem because I warn them ahead of time that they have to machine the step properly and I make sure they have the right spec. There can't be any guesswork if you want a machine to work properly. GD

Are you sure the pressure plate bolts are tight? The release bearing doesn't hang-up at all on the transmission quill does it? Otherwise, I would suspect the pressure plate is sub-standard quality or the flywheel step was more worn than you thought. Possibly a combination of both. It's not worth saving $35 to just leave the flywheel unless you are really hard up for money. And it's noth worth saving $50 on a cheap clutch kit either. Way to far to go to get back in there if there's a problem. GD

Actually, being the EA81 has an 8.7:1 compression ratio already, it would handle small amounts of boost without any internal modifications. About 5 Lbs should make a noticeable difference - probably bringing it right up near 95 or 100 HP. Is it worth the trouble? No. But it could be done if you know how to setup a blow-through carb. You still wouldn't get close to the performance of a non-turbo EJ22, and the cost/complexity would both go up. GD

Yes, it is possible to put one on it. No, you don't have the skills to do so. If you did you wouldn't have to ask. GD

Did you surface the flywheel? It could have been worn leading to insufficient clamping force, or if may have been resurfaced to the wrong specs - some shops/people don't understand that you have to surface both the friction suface and the PP mounting flange to insure the flywheel has the correct "step" or it won't work as designed. GD

There are good deals out there in the used market. Just about a week ago I saw a Quincy QR-240 on an 80 gallon horizontal tank - brand new Baldor 5 HP single phase motor - freshly serviced and painted. $650. That's the kind of machine you want. That's about a 15 CFM @ 100 psi unit. They don't make the 240 anymore, and that one was probably from the 60's or 70's but you can still get all the parts to rebuild them. Built like a heavy-duty truck engine with disc valves, cast iron crankcase, cylinder, rods, and crank, timken roller bearings for the mains, etc, etc. I have a QR-325 that came into work after some electrician working down at a school district facility hooked up the 3-phase backward to the machine and walked away. They make air running backwards but there's no oil pressure. It seized and they had to buy a new one. Everyone that works at my former employer gets their own compressor eventually and that one was given to me. Just the pump - had to buy a tank and motor for it. But I got a deal on a used 80 gallon vertical and bought a new motor. I'm into it about $500 but it would be about a $6000 machine if you went out looking to buy a new one. Having completely gone through the pump and having a new motor I can safely say it will be good for the rest of my life. They often last 30+ years down in the bowels of ships or at saw mills, etc. I've personally rebuilt units from the 50's with 100,000+ hours on them. Just do some craigslist searches for "Quincy" in your area. There are lots of them out there and very often they are being given away for almost nothing in need of a rebuild. Your local Quincy dealer can set you up with a rebuild kit - it's rather like rebuilding a gas engine - hone the cylinders, new rings, replace the rod inserts, lap the valve seats and install new discs, new gaskets, etc. The only tough part is running them for a good long break-in period to seat the rings. Usually about 10 hours straight @ 100 psi will do a pretty good job. Don't be afraid of 3-phase stuff - typically you can just pull off the motor and replace it with a single phase equivelent with a minimum of rewireing. If you can rebuild a car engine - why not a compressor? It's not that big of a learning curve really. GD

Used DGV's are worth $75 to $125. Based on having rebuilt a ton of them, knowing what problems you *might* run into, etc. You can get a brand new legitimate Weber with the adaptor plate for $325. The adaptor by itself is $40, you WILL need a rebuild kit and probably a number of jets to correctly setup a used one - that's easily worth $75 in parts. $325 - $40 - $75 = $210. Then you have to figure depreciation from being a used carb - some of it's life is used up. Plus the labor to rebuild + rejet. It's not very economical in the end unless you pay ~$100 for it and you give it at least a cursory inspection first. An EMPI knock off? Make the moron take it back or at least refund 50% of what you paid. Sounds like you'll at least need a throttle shaft bearing kit, rebuild kit, some jets, adaptor plate, labor, etc. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for that thing and I probably wouldn't buy it at all. You got sold a bill of goods - maybe he knew - maybe he didn't. Ask him to work with you on his misrepresented item. GD

Go to the Portland yards. You are close enough and there's no sales tax here. Any of the LKQ self-service yards will have dozens of EA82's. GD

What I meant was that I have a picture that I personally took of some side trim on an '85 GL-10 that says "Leone", and it was here in Oregon. Some kind of fluke I suppose. The other side of the car said Subaru so maybe it was a replacement or a screw-up at the factory. I really don't know. GD

Which jets? GD

Depends on the EA71. If it's the fat-case EA71 with the starter to the right of center then yes, it can be done. If it's the center-top mounted starter then no. It hasn't been done to my knowledge with the center-top starter anyway, and I don't see that it would be worth the trouble either. GD

I understand your frustration, but one thing you have to take note of - the engine still runs despite the problems with the gauges, and the accesories. One thing that Subaru's are known for - despite multiple failures of accesory systems they still seem to get down the road one way or another. Mechanically they are very sound. Understand that the wiring is 20+ years old at this point and the effects of time and corrosion are just something that has to be dealt with. On a lot of the older Subarus the wireing wasn't very well protected against corrosion around the connectors. You may have a bad connection somewhere. If you ground the wire from the sending unit to the block, the gauge should read max pressure. That's a good way to check the gauge. If you get no reading then you probably have a wireing problem. The gauges themselves aren't very accurate but they rarely actually fail. It's very easy to get to the back of the cluster once you pull the surround off. You might try running a new wire from the sending unit to the cluster. Mechanical gauges are ok as well - although I don't like the cheap plastic tubing they use. I prefer to put in a 90* elbow to the pump, run a stainless braided pressure line to the firewall, and mount a new sending unit (or 1/8" copper tubing if you are doing mech.) for like an Autometer gauge, etc. I have an Autometer three-gauge panel on my lifted wagon that has volts, temp, and oil pressure. The sending units are less expensive than the stock one's and the whole setup was like $65 plus maybe $40 for the 36" braided SS line. Works like a champ. I have also done the $10 Walmart oil pressure gauges but you have to buy a longer peice of tubing for them. My local VW aftermarket house carries VDO gauges and they had a tubing kit that was better quality and plenty long enough for a Subaru (designed for an air-cooled VW with the rear engine). Total cost on that install was maybe $40. I cut the threaded end off the stock sending unit, tapped it for 1/8" NPT and installed a 90* elbow and then the tubing fitting. I would only do that on a road-going car though as the tubing is fragile and it would easily get ripped off by brush off-road. GD

They were, yes. But only internally. They were not marketed as such. In other countries the EA82 body was also known as a Leone. I have a picture around somewhere of an '85 EA82 with "Leone" on the side trim instead of "Subaru". GD

Interesting that they would put a very restrictive regulator on them..... one thing to consider is the pressure you are running. Most air tools are designed for 90-100 psi but a lot of these small compressors are pushing out 175 psi just to cram more air into a smaller tank. The problem is, that at higher pressure, the compressor isn't as effecient so CFM output goes down. So regulating it (with a properly sized regulator) is beneficial if your are boderline with the size of your compressor for the tool you are running. Not that a compressor that size could ever keep up with a die-grinder, but regulating down to 90 psi sure will help it not to run as much. It really sucks that no one can seem to make a decent sized compressor for a good price. Most folks are chained to a compressor that simply can't supply the air that most air tools really need. It seems like if you don't have at least $3000 to spend you can't own more than an oversized tire-inflator. I would like to see some of the scroll compressors come down in price and hit the consumer market. A 5 HP scroll would easily put out 15 CFM and they have a good 20,000 hour life before tip-seal replacement is needed. Too bad they are outragously expensive because they are marketed to the medical and high tech industrys . They are simple diecast housings with like 3 moving parts GD

Go get a used EA82 flywheel from the junk yard. Typically about $10 - $15. $35 to have it resurfaced if it needs it. Cheaper than new anyway. Using an EA81 setup in an EA82 like that is just asking for trouble later. The EA81 pressure plate doesn't match up to the EA82 release bearing, and very few EA82 disc's will fit inside the EA81 pressure plate. Only the one's with small, round shaped spring dampeners will fit and those aren't that common in my experience. GD

It is completely normal for your car to "wind up" in 4WD around turns. You should only use 4WD for straight driving, or in slippery conditions. Even wet pavement is typically ok, as well as snow, gravel, etc. Don't use 4WD on dry pavement - you don't need it. I'm confused though - if you bought the car new, how is it that you don't know this? GD

You can use the return if you get the fuel barb from an EA81 Hitachi. It threads right on to the Weber. You can also just cap the return line. Seems to work the same either way. Don't cap the fuel tank vent line - just leave it open to atmosphere after you remove the charcoal canistor. The EGR won't do you any good if you are blocking the port on the head (the tube you cut) so just don't hook it up. Without a vacuum signal the EGR valve will do nothing. Your carb should have a brass screw already blocking the EGR vacuum supply so just leave it be. While you are blocking ports, you will also want to remove the Air Suction Valve(s) and block the ports under each head. There is a spacer between the head and the exhaust header that has a large threaded port with about a 19mm tube comming out of it. Block those and remove the associated valves and tubes. GD

Only some of the EA82 D/R clutch disc's will fit the EA81 pressure plate. If you find one that does then the EA81 flywheel/pressure plate will work no problem. I can't for the life of me figure out why you would want to do such a thing though. Seems totally silly. GD

I have a collection of cabinets that were scavenged or built over the years from whatever my grandfather had around. I find they are useful but at the same time stuff goes in and it's "out of sight, out of mind" and I have a hard time remembering that I even own some of that stuff. Awning for the back deck, house paint, deck stain, coffee cans full of every type of nail immaginable, odd scraps of wood, remnants of various carpeting/vinyl/counter-top from the house.... etc. I have two of the metal "flat pack" shelves you can get at almost any discount store - 4' x 16" or some such deal - 800 lbs per shelf - etc, etc. Got them at Costco for like $50 each. I find they are great for storeing the clear tote's which I then label and fill with assorted parts for specific types/models of vehicles, etc. I plan on getting about 5 or 6 more of the shelving units for my shed and similarly organzing that space as it's a dumping ground for engines, transmissions, and other heavy spare's that don't fit into the scheme of my garage. I appreciate the visibility of the shelves. I do keep my aerosol's in a cupboard, though I would like to rebuild some of the cupboards that they are in to be "one can deep". Having deep cupboards in the garage is just a good way to lose stuff forever. I can't use most of the space because I want all the cans to be visible or I won't know what I have in stock. Frankly a shelf would be better for those too, but I can see the need in your case to hide that stuff. Perhaps you could just build some yourself - it's not that hard to knock together some 1-can-deep shelves and put a door or a curtain over them. I'm seriously considering just putting up a canvas curtain strung on a rope on front of some 6" deep shelves..... Simpler is better IMO. Doors have to swing out - curtains don't. GD

That's because no one makes them in the aftermarket. Go to the dealer. GD