GeneralDisorder

It's one of the relays under the dash on the driver's side IIRC. You'll see them. Don't hard-wire the fusible links. They are there for a reason - so you don't earn a darwin award by burning yourself to death. GD

You check the fusible links and insure they were tight and good? Other than that I would check the lighting relay under the dash. Might be bad. A bad alternator can cause other failures. Overdriving components in excess of their designed voltage will eventually cause that. GD

If it has air suspension then it's not a good candidate I don't think. I would look for a non-turbo without the air suspension if you are looking for used springs. GD

Turbo's are typically different. They would fit for sure, but the ride height and/or stiffness may be affected. GD

The front strut springs are only like $50 or $60 each from the dealer. GD

There is no such thing as an EA81 turbo axle. They were 23 spline just like the N/A versions. So being the roll pin was sheared away..... I don't know. Generally if you can even get the EA81 axle on the car then it will pull the joint apart rather than pull the end off the transmission. This is pure speculation though. GD

99004.731 GD

What will really blow your mind is that the filter that comes with the Redline kit is too tall - it hits the underside of the hood on EA81's without a body lift. You'll want to invest in the 1-3/4" filter instead of the 3" that you have. The clips are still the same though. On some of them you can gently lift the base of the filter and slip the edge of the clip between the base and the carb. Easier if you have installed the gasket that goes inbetween. For the ones that don't want to slip under you can grind on the bottom edge if you want. You could just leave them sticking out a bit as well - they don't ever come off that I've experienced but maybe if you were bouncing around off-road a lot. I always try to tuck mine under or grind them. GD

I've said my peice freind. Take it or leave it. I type VERY fast (also a software engineer) so it's no trouble at all to go on. But it's clear that it's wasted on you. Good laugh for me and the crowd though. Hope you're stocked up on the blood pressure meds if you are going to stick around. GD

$750 would be top dollar considering the issues it has I would say. If it's a turbo then possibly a little less. The EA82T's aren't highly regarded in the community. Thing is - you can get a nicer, newer gen I Legacy for under $1000 any day of the week in running/driving condition. More power, better all-around car for the money. It's also not going to be easy or cheap to replace that 4EAT transmission. They only made them for like 3 years. Although on the good side they aren't as prone to failure in the first place as thee earlier 3AT. Just not a really desireable car being an EA82 and an automatic, etc. You would definately have to find *just* the right buyer to give you anything close to $750 for it. If you want it gone in less than a few months you'll have to take less than $500 for I would say. You would do well to at least consider looking for a used tranny and putting it in. Might only cost $100 or so and could easily bump the value up to around $1000 - $1200 to someone that just needs reliable transportation. I don't think you'll entice that kind of money out of a Subaru enthusiast as they typically aren't looking for that model. GD

$35 at Discount Import Parts here in Beaverton, OR. Special order, but that only took 1 day. GD

Yes - that's an EA81 manifold. Should work just fine. GD

So did you check the spline count? GD

Sounds like there's a possibility you were given a turbo axle (25 spline) for your 23 spline application. That would cause the roll pin to shear away - which usually takes less than 50 feet. They usually don't fall off the transmission though so that sounds a bit fishy.... GD

Just under 4 quarts typically. GD

I think you are refering to the "C" clearance number of the bearing yes? Here's a good tutorial on the subject. Subaru wheel bearings are C3's. Unmarked bearings are typically CN which is some nebulous clearance between C2 and C3 according to this document. Might be ok, but then again maybe too tight. http://www.ahrinternational.com/bearing_radial_clearance_explained.htm I prefer to stick with SKF, NTN, FA G (no space), and the other big-name bearing suppliers. Qaulity of construction and inspection seems to be lacking on the cheap stuff. GD

Yes - they are both 4WD, Dual-Range transmissions. The transmissions to get are from '85 to '89 Non-Turbo GL's - wagon's, sedan's, and three-door coupe's (not the hatchback). You don't want a DL, and you don't want a 90-94 Loyale as those were push-button single-range transmissions. Junk yards are your friend. U-Pull-It style yards are usually cheapest but call around and see what you find. Cost is generally around $75 to $250 depending on what you get and where you get it. Some places offer warantee's ect. Contact Jerry (Bratsrus1 here on the board). He makes a cross-member for mounting the 5 speed to the EA81 body. He is very reasonble. You will also need the driveline from the donor car as the 5 speed's are physically shorter than the 4's. You need the clutch for the 5 speed as well - depending on how you do it you can use the EA81 flywheel and pressure plate with the EA82 disc or you can use the entire EA82 assembly. GD

Where do you find them? Ask Subarutex IIRC - he had bought some at one point. They aren't the solution to high boost though. It's been tried. If you want to high-boost an EA82T then you need a set of studs and you need to o-ring the block. Standard head gaskets will work just fine. GD

You fill it through the dip-stick hole so it's on the top where you can't see it. It will be on the driver's side (for you AUS folk), just to the left of the pitching stopper. GD

I try for about 1/16" of squeeze out on my RTV applications. I notice that most folks go nuts with the stuff and it looks like a 4 year old with a caulking gun went off his Rittlin. I guess a lot of people prescribe to the adage "more is better". I'm just paranoid about peices breaking off and getting jammed up in oil galley's and such. I have WAY too much attention to detail unless I've been drinking.... a lot. GD

My axle rebuild write-up should answer most of your questions. It's geared towards EA81 rear axles, but it applies to the EA front inner joint as well. The front outer joint is not easily dissasembled as you need a special tool and ideally a press to do it right. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

We can dissagree about bearing greasing. It's ok. Lots of people dissagree with it. I get flak for my posistions on greaseing every time I voice them. There is a lot of old "wisdom" on the subject that is ingrained in the older generation as most have not kept up with the literature on the subject, are not aware of the changes in qualities of lubricants, and very much *want* to beleive they are still doing it right. I want to draw your attention to some documents from my library: Here's some facts: 1. At 60 MPH, an EA series wheel bearing spins at ~870 RPM. 2. The 6207 has an inner bore diameter of 35mm. 3. Due to the resolution of this chart, I chose a 40mm bore and a 1000 RPM speed to insure that I underestimate the usable life of the bearing grease. 4. The chart indicates a usuable grease life (when the grease should be serviced), of 20,000 hours. 5. If every single hour of operation were @ 60 MPH, that works out to 1,200,000 miles for the usable life of the grease. If you even got HALF that number of miles (possibly due to higher temps from excessive braking, lots of stop/go style driving, etc) you would be exceeding the usable life of the car by several times over in most cases. Please take note of the paragraph under "How long does the grease remain usable?". It notes that: I must emphasize that this paragraph implicitly indicates that most bearings fitted with sheilds or seals ARE lubricated for life. Such is the case with all the one's I've seen so emperical evidence would seem to validate. ALSO I would draw your attention to the grease compatibility matrix. Notice all the red? That's because you can't just mix grease types in most cases. Thus EA series wheel bearings can NEVER be regreased as it will damage them to remove and reinstall them and there is no other way to flush the old grease out. Plus if you just smear new grease in there - even if it's compatible you are contaminating it with the old grease and the contaminates already present. They are not timken roller bearings and can't be treated as such. If they were, you would (should) be repacking them every 120,000 miles (by the chart - probably it would be reccomended more often than that to be safe). The same does not apply to ball bearings - the forces applied to the bearing surfaces and the grease are different. This ain't your daddy's Chevy truck. It's also a really poor idea to flush brand new bearings, repack them, and reinstall the seals - you risk contamination from the solvents and any remaining bits of the OEM grease. It's also very hard to insure you have applied *just* the right amount so the bearing receives correct lubrication without overheating. GD

Yep - someone used red RTV instead of the factory grey. It is supposed to be that way although it does indicate they were liberal with the application and it for sure indicates your cam towers have been removed at some point along the line. That is usually only done if the head/head gaskets need replacement or the engine is being rebuilt. GD

Gary - get the pliers for your type of boot clamp - they are $10 at the local discount auto parts house here. The other option is to source the VW 1/4" wide (6mm) axle boot clamps. They are hose clamps but are thin to fit in the groove that the regular boot clamp fits in. Check to make sure you have enough clearance for the hose clamp worn gear all around where it will sit on the joint. Loyale - If it just has a pin-hole then you can do both boots without removing the axle from the knuckle. It's not that fun but it's doable. I typically remove them anyway as I've been doing it since the beginning of time and I'm pretty quick at this point. You do run the risk of not having the removal go well and ending up replacing the axle and wheel bearings anyway. Safest bet is to just reboot it with two new ones and make sure the grease still looks good - scrape away some and add about as much as you remove plus a bit for what's been lost through the pin-hole. Better that you do it now as if you wait till the axle splits completely there's a much greater chance of contamination of the grease/joint and then you will have to remove the axle to properly clean it out. GD

Yeah - the type of air filter on the machine can make a difference. Typically they are a screwed-in NPT fitting but being a highly custom type of machine and fully enclosed it could very well be totally different. Try this - when it's running just put your hand over the intake to the compressor (do this before it starts getting hot). That will instantly tell you exactly how much of the "noise" is comming from the intake. It won't hurt you - that's actually how we test the bottom end on recips - block the intake and listen for the sound of rods knocking..... GD