GeneralDisorder

If the '87 is a carb it will have ports on the bottom of each head that need to be blocked (Air Suction Valve ports), and will have slightly lower compression ratio. Other than that it will work just fine. If the '87 is an SPFI engine then it's a direct bolt-in replacement. If it's a turbo or MPFI engine, then it will not work at all. GD

There's nothing that can be done with the original transmission - unfortunately the 4 speed's are complex little items and the output shaft is not inline with the transfer shaft. It would require a lot of machine work and recasting to change it. I haven't looked into it heavily, but I would start by looking at Nissan truck transmissions. The Nissan stuff from the 80's is about as close as you will find to Subaru's designs. They used a lot of the same parts from the same vendors and there is a surprising amount if interchangability. It will need an adaptor plate for sure, but I think it's worth checking out. GD

With the added power and the grip you may have issues with eating the rear output transfer gear set. That's a lot of power through a 2.5" gear with small teeth. Just something to consider. You may eventually have to go with a true RWD transmission. GD

That's how I remember it as well - the VLSD's have a sealed viscous coupler just like the EJ center diff component on the 5 speed's..... they take plain old gear oil. GD

I had an outer joint on a front axle do that on my lifted wagon. I just put in 4WD and kept going. Rather than being on some trail or other messy place, the damn thing gave out turning out onto a street from a gas station . It was one of the original 2WD axles from before the car was converted to 4WD. The inner race split and the axle shaft spun inside it. GD

If they are cleaned out properly before the boots are installed, and new grease applied they would probably last a good long time. Most axle "failures" that I've seen were either catostrophic (usually with good boots), or they just start making noise - which generally means they are running more-or-less dry. Clean out the joints, replace the grease and boots, and they typically last many thousands of miles farther. If the grease is good and the boot intact, you won't hear the axle till it eats itself and you lose power. Unfortunately doing it the right way like that is actually MORE work than just replacing the whole axle with a new one and with the new one you don't have to get greasy, you get a warantee generally, and you know there's no contamination in the joints. And it's only marginally more expensive. The choice is obvious given the availibility of axles. GD

Yeah - best to get a good used one if you suspect it's not going to work to clean it this time. GD

It's probably a GL-10 2WD 5 speed - that would be the first model/year for SPFI. Clean the idle air controller, and check the resistance of the CTS for starters. GD

There is no one here that can lookup that information. It's not even availible to the dealers for vehicles that old I'm told. EA82 Turbo's do not have a "T" for the engine designation - just as the EJ22 Turbo's do not either (N/A EJ22's are actually EJ22E's, and the Turbo version is the EJ22G). The "T" is just a way that we (this forum) make the distinction between the two. The block's themselves are identical - the only change is the pistons and the heads. GD

It's not cost effective - it's about $12 to $15 for each boot and then the labor to install them is basically the same as the labor to replace the axles. You might as well get new ones. I've had good luck with the EMPI axles. I get them locally for about $65 each and they are new, not rebuilt. GD

There is a tach pulse sensor that will not allow the pump to run unless the engine is being cranked. There may be nothing wrong with your pump wireing at all - have you verified that you in fact *do not* have fuel or may it be the case that you don't have spark/ignition? GD

My '84 has two u-joints and it works great. Just cut the splined section off of another steering shaft and use it to couple the two joints together. I can get a pic if you want but it's pretty self-explanitory. It doesn't use a rag joint at all and it's actually smoother and tighter without it. *edit* - probably better if I just take a pic so you understand what you need to do: GD

Come out and get one from here. We have plenty and people can't hardly give them away. GD

Test it with a mechanical gauge. The sending units commonly fail and the gauges are not to be trusted either. GD

Non turbo, single port heads WILL NOT work on an EA82T application - they are different castings entirely and the manifold isn't even close. If they are non-turbo MPFI heads they will work if you drill/tap the oil return line for the turbo or move it to the pan, etc. GD

I cut the shifter away from the shift rod sleeve and move it down about 3/4" and cut the shifter and add a 3/4" section of 1/2" steel round stock right above the pivot point on the transmission. That makes the throw shorter and gives it a bit more height. As noted you don't need 4" of linkage extension as typically the transmission is only dropped 3" with a 4" lift and you can angle the engine forward to tilt the back of the transmission up an inch or two. The rest is negligable but it does help to shorten the throw. You won't get away without cutting and welding at least a bit. JB weld isn't going to cut it. It helps also to lengthen and change the angle of the 4WD selector rod. About a 15* downward angle to the last 4" of the selector rod helps return the selector lever to it's stock position. The throw reduction of the main gear shifter is beneficial to keep them from interfereing with each other when you are in 4 low. GD

http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp GD

Not without an overflow bottle it won't. The EA81 radiators will puke out what they don't want in them from heat expansion. What is left will always be less than full when cold. GD

Confirm - the struts will bend at the knuckle if you jump the car. GD

Hose reversal will not make any difference to a properly functioning core. The flow through the core can be any direction you like. Reversing it may have seemed to help due to dislodging some deposits inside the core or jammed in the heater core shut-off valve but ultimately it's just a simple radiator and the direction of flow has nothing to do with it's heat transfer abilities. How have you tested flow rate through the core? And have you verified that there isn't a partial or complete blockage in the heater core bypass hose from the water pump? GD

Nope - if you are at 8 degree's on the gun, then you are good to go. Typically with a Weber you can push it up to 10 degree's. But where the slot is in relation to the bolt has nothing to do with it being timed correctly. If it shows good when you check it and advances properly with vacuum and RPM's then it's functioning as designed. GD

EA81's don't have overflow bottles. The radiator seeks it's own level and when properly functioning it does not affect the heat at all. All my EA81's have excelent heat and I've never added a single overflow bottle to them. Iv'e seen one's where people have added them but it just isn't neccesary if everything is working as designed. GD

It's TOTALLY worth it. For $150 a month, I never touch a cleaning product, vacuum, etc. She cleans every appliance, toilets, shower, dusts every surface, washes the sheets, makes the beds, folds laundry, etc, etc. I can get $150 worth of work *I like doing* done in the time she's at the house every month. She does a better job than I would do (if I did it at all ), it gives me an excuse to pick-up and organize before she comes, and I'm helping her out - she's single with two teenagers and no formal employment other than her maid service clients. I could give you a reference if you like. My mother also uses her and she's done excelent work for both of us. She's willing to travel a bit - comes out to West Linn from Troutdale to work for myself and my mother. Perhaps we could collaberate on the project. The wood chipper I have for a donor is not worth beans I'm afraid. It's a 1960's Craftsman - has no parts availibility at all, and my grandfather pretty much used it all up. It's been fabbed on with rivets, welds (stick), and it's pretty well toast. Even my grandfather had to eventually admit it was too far gone to function as anything more than a yard ornament and bought himself a new chipper that he used for the last 10 years of his life. The old machine just sits in my shed. It takes ether to start the old Techumseh engine but I'm pretty sure I can make it run (hasn't in 15+ years I would bet). It was drained of fuel and it's been indoors that whole time. GD

Nope. Not even close. You can do a five-lug swap using some XT6 parts but I don't know if that will interface with STi axles or not. If I were you, I would use an Impreza body for this swap. The EA82 body is not very stiff. To be race ready they have to be gusseted and seam welded almost everywhere. Even then they aren't that strong. There is no aftermarket for anything on the car and all the newer stuff is different. When you hit 1990 and the Legacy (and later the Impreza), everything changed. It was nearly a complete redesign. It can and has been done, but typically not with STi stuff. The USDM STi's are a little too new to make the swap easy. The older WRX's are a little more managable and some of the JDM import WRX/STi stuff is easier as well. GD

A TON of wireing and not a little bit of mechanical work. Hydraulic clutch, pedal assembly (E-Throttle), DCCD controller, custom exhaust, complete suspension swap (not simple)..... lots and lots of little issues. If the GL-10 isn't a turbo that makes is even harder - you will need an EA82 x-member from a turbo, etc. The GL-10's suspension and brakes will not handle 300 HP. You will have to do a lot of work to make it safe at that level of performance. GD