GeneralDisorder

Get out your DMM and start checking components. Start with the coolant temp as noted above. GD

Not at all is the answer to your question. The STi is so far removed from the GL-10 they might as well be different brands entirely. The Leone body of the GL-10 is about 5 or 6 generations of car and one major generation of engine back in time. The STi engine/transmission won't even be easy to fit. While possible, it will take a LOT of work. GD

I am well aware of what engines were made for Europe and the US. You do NOT have an EA82 engine. You DO have an Overhead Valve 1.6 Liter EA71 in an 3rd generation Leone body. Go take a look at your valve covers - they will be green or blue and you do not have timing belts - that means you have an EA71. GD

So it has overhead cams? If not you have an EA82 body with an EA71 (I've seen this combination). If you have some other flavor of engine it still would not be an EA82 as that both indicates the engine type as well as the size. EA82's *ARE* 1.8 liter engines. If you have a 1.6 then you do NOT have an EA82. GD

If the return line is hooked up as stock, then *very* little airflow would be possible while blowing into it. There is an orifice at one of the hard-line connections under the hood that contains a silicone "nozzle" for lack of a better term. I'm assuming it only opens under pressure..... my guess is that the return line is only there to prevent the fuel pump from overheating in the case of the float getting stuck closed. It can only flow a tiny amount with that orifice and the tiny hole supplying the return line hose barb from the main supply line barb at the carb. Fact is - I have no idea why these cars were equipped with return lines. 80/81 models didn't have them and the pump was under the hood. It was only in '82 that they began putting the pump under the car (to minimize the possibility of fire by insuring that the pump always has liquid in it and never explosive fuel vapor). At the same time they introduced the return line..... I've hookd up Weber's both with and without the return line and never noticed a bit of difference either way. GD

Something probably fell down into the air bleeds for the main and/or idle circuit. Take the top off the Weber, remove the air correctors, E-tubes, main jets, and idle jets - blow all the passages out with compressed air and reassemble. Should clear up your issues. This has happened to me several times while off-roading. The Weber air filters are not great at keeping out debris. GD

Sounds like it's drivetrain related - nothing inside the bell-housing should be moving on take-off that doesn't also move when changing gears. I would be looking at drive axles and driveline's for a noise that only occurs on take-off like that. For these older Subarus - pick your mechanic carefully. The best mechanic is YOU. Every time. Next best thing is a board member from here or one of the other Subaru forums that knows his stuff. GD

You have an EA71 not an EA82. These were commonly put in the EA82 body in markets outside the US. You would need to do a lot of custom work to do a blow-through carb setup. Custom turbo exhaust, custom intake, and proper rejetting of the carb just to name a few. It's no small task but it can and has been done. GD

My project list has been out of control for years now. Some days I just twirl in circles not knowing what to do first. Currently I have 7 Subaru's here - only 4 of which are drivers and only 1 *maybe* parts car. All of them are project cars to one degree or another. Then there's the house. I have a leaky water-heater that I haven't had time to replace (new unit is sitting here in the box), yard to care for, ageing parents, girlfriend, etc, etc. At least my house is clean since I started hiring a maid for 3 hours every other week GD

I'll add that parts are cheap for the HF welders. I just bought a new MIG gun and cord for my 110v HF machine and it was only $33 shipped. The hardest part was understanding the gentleman on the phone. They do have a technical support number as well that might be able to sugest which parts need replacement. Congrats on your new 190 amp. Just bought myself a Thermal-Arc 180 a couple weeks ago. GD

Make sure you tell him that cracks between the valves are NORMAL for these engines. Both heads will have cracks there - it's a gaurantee. But it doesn't affect the engine any. GD

The ASV is the Air Suction Valve. If you look at the exhaust ports on the heads you will see a spacer with about a 3/4" diameter tube running out of it. Follow that up to the ASV. Unscrew the valve from the tube you just followed and put a quarter (yes - $0.25) inside the valve body and screw the tube back on. Do this to both sides if you have two valves. That will cure your backfireing. GD

I'm assuming you are refering to the accerator pump nozzle then. I suppose it could be that the float is set too high - I'm not sure if that would cause it or not. Typically the nozzle is way above the fuel level and the fuel is pumped to it by the accelerator pump plunger. Perhaps the plunger is not sealing well.... GD

Probably didn't hurt the engine at all. Change the head gaskets and mill the heads flat. Should be fine. If it had got REALLY hot it wouldn't have driven due to detonation. So it didn't get as hot as I've had them before. GD

Sure seems that way. I don't know what their problem is here - maybe it's got something to do with liabilities in my area. I don't know all the laws but as much trouble as we have here there must be something behind it. Most of the problems I've heard about were bottles that were being "leased". As I own all of mine and always go to the same dealer I've never experienced it first hand. GD

Perhaps - are you using the return line? What orifice does the fuel leak from inside the carb? Is is leaking from the accelerator pump nozzle or some other place? I wouldn't think that .5 psi would make any difference and frankly there should be no real pressure present when the fuel pump shuts down. The fuel inlet to the carb is solely controlled by the float and needle valve - 3.5 psi is not enough to blow the needle off the seat. I think the key is going to be in finding out where the fuel is comming from that's leaking onto the throttle plate. GD

That's old school alright - but eventually stuff like that as well as loose belts will wear down the pully's till they just need replacing. At least we aren't talking about multi-rip belts - as the pulley's wear the peaks between the ribs sharpen up like knife blades and then the pulley's have to be replaced or they just shred belts. GD

If you sanded the pulley's with some emery cloth and tightened the piss out of the belt it would stop - but you would destroy the bearings in your accesories. You need a new belt AND you need to degrease and rough up the pulleys a bit. They may even need to be replaced if they are widening out inside the V. Your voltage guage pegged out at 18+v is BAD. You need a new alternator ASAP or you will be buying a new battery, alternator, and quite a few bulbs. GD

1.5 to 2.5 IIRC.... somewhere in there. Weber's like 2 to 3 so they typically work just fine for those as well. GD

The guy has pictures of like 4 different cars there - one of which is red, and another is an automatic - he claims it's a 5 speed. Perhaps he just absconded with someone elses pictures but I would take a look at it first and drive it before I traded a PS3 (I have one also and love it!). GD

While richness and timing may be part of the problem - without oxygen there can be no combustion in the exhaust. He has leaks that are allowing in fresh air which mixes with the unburnt fuel and ignites in the exhaust. Typically the backfireing can be solved simply by eliminating the ASV's - either by blocking them with a quarter or by welding up the holes in the spacers. GD

If it's not overheating then these bubbles are likely just air in the system. EA81's have no overflow bottle so the radiator will seek it's own level (usually 1" or 2" below the cap) and stay there. It has to have room to expand as it heats up. If you aren't using coolant or overheating I say call it good and run it. Only reason I go to 65 pounds is that I want to be absolutely sure I don't have to retorque it. But I'm anal like that. GD

Yeah - people have gone to great lengths to install Weber's on the EA82's and avoid that power steering reservoir..... till I came along and hit it with a hammer a few times. Straightens the whole deal right out. Just installed one a couple days ago - the woman took a liking to an '86 sedan and I can't abide the Hitachi for more more than the 20 miles it took to get the car home. Weber power FTW. If it hasn't already been done, you will want to remove the ASV valves. Cut the tubes off about 1" from the mouting plate to the head. Flatten the remaining bit of tube and run a weld bead across it. Instant block off plate. GD

You have exhaust leaks or bad air injection valve reed's. GD

Yeah - the 4WD hi/lo in the 4 speed's is massively obtuse. I also hate working on the 4's. Just wait till you crack open a 5 speed though - it's like a breath of fresh air! (much, MUCH simpler). GD