GeneralDisorder

Try a search - this is covered every couple days. GD

Power steering from any 82 through 89 EA81 will work but you have to change the entire engine cross-member, power steering rack, pump, lines, etc. GD

The DGV's are useful for engines upwards of 3 to 3.5 liter's actually. They flow quite a bit more than our tiny little Subaru's need. The DFV with the small venturi's was used stock on many Fords larger than 2 liters. I beleive the Pinto's were 2.4's. GD

All EA82's have proportion valves - so you already have one and it's very similar to the disc brake cars. EA81's never had discs or valves. So yes - it is an EA81 specific problem. GD

Well - if it's a 4EAT it will, yes. If it's a 3AT then it's already 4WD so.... I don't know as I've never been into one and I hope I never get the pleasure. You asked about AWD's so my answers were about AWD. 4WD or FT4WD is a different animal. GD

Perhaps there was so much wear to the sleeve, rod, and roll-pin holes that it just didn't have enough material to work with. I've seen the sleeve's and rods with grooves in them from pivoting on the roll-pins. I really don't like splitting the sleeve as it precludes adding another bolt to the assembly. And drilling out the rod leaves precious little metal on either side of the (now gigantic) hole for the bolt. I've seen one transmission where the rod broke at the roll-pin hole and it hadn't even been enlarged. While there is still some slop if there is any wear to the rod and sleeve, replaceing the bushings or fileing the bushing insert generally makes the shifting "good enough" for most people. I added the second 5mm socket-head to remove the rest of the slop in mine. Also - shortening the throw will neccesarily reduce the slop. If you have 1" of slop with a 6 inch throw, reducing the throw to 3" will reduce the slop to 1/2". Often that's enough to be tollerable. It's a balancing act - what *can* you do that *probably* won't break, etc. If you just don't care at all about the transmission (as many folks don't about the 4 speed's) then you can just weld the thing solid. The *real* fix for the 4 speed slop is to haul that heavy POS off to the scrap man and install a 5 speed. GD

Yep - that's exactly what happened to me on my Brat. I installed the proportioning valve from the same car the disc's came from and the problem vanished. I've been telling people for years that you need the proportioning valve but they don't beleive me. I did a skid test on wet pavement and did a 180 into the oncomming lane without the valve - rear brakes lockup and the back of the car passes the front. With the valve it was perfectly straight. I wish it were simple to install the valve but it's not. You have to redo all the lines under the back of the car. Unless you do two aftermarket valves that just go inline with each brake. GD

Crazy.... yes. There will be costs incurred for the install. PCV hoses and adaptors, inline fuel filter (highly reccomended), gasket sealer depending on how you do the adaptor plate. You may have to change idle jets depending on how it runs..... there's always costs associated with Weber installs. You may find something broken or break something yourself durring the process. In addition to the carb and adaptor, you will have to block the ASV's one way or another, as well as reroute/cap a lot of vacuum lines and ports. EGR and distributor advance will need new lines run from the front of the carb, etc. GD

I figured him being in NM, he might have an easier time finding an EA82. I have no idea what the availibility is down there though. GD

In '85 it could either be an EA82 (Wagon, sedan), or an EA81 (Brat, Hatchback). Ask him which body style it came from. Even if it's not from an EA82, it will still be jetted correctly and you would only have to buy the adaptor plate for the EA82 manifold ~$35. Beware of used Weber's though. They can be gamble. Make sure the throttle shafts are not worn, and the choke plates aren't sloppy. If you end up having to rebuild/rejet it then you can easily be looking at as much money and more frustration than just buying the kit for $325 or so. I usually expect to spend around $200 to install a used Weber and I've done a LOT of them so I know what I'm doing, what to look for, etc. It's pretty trivial for me to rebuild one, but I usually end up having to buy a couple jets, a rebuild kit, maybe change the choke style, adaptor plate, etc, etc. It's not a cheap proposition. IF the throttle shafts are good, I won't pay more than about $75 to $125 for a used Weber. GD

Unless it was added by him or by a previous owner, no Brat's ever came with power steering except for the 83/84 Turbo's - those had it stock. You could still use the EA82 manifold with power steering - just switch to the EA82 power steering setup. GD

It's a 6mm roll-pin. Most of us use 3/16" pin punches to remove them although Snap-On (at least) sells a 6mm roll-pin punch in an extended length version just for Subaru's. The transmission end is the easy part. It's getting them out of the bearings in the knuckle that's the trick. Run a search here on this section of the forum for "axle replacement" - you have some reading to do. GD

Bait is good. And a cot to sleep on. I know here in OR if you shoot an intruder inside your house you won't even be arrested. Home invasion laws.... the 12 gauge is leaning in the corner by my bed GD

Yes - the carb setup you have is uncommon. They were problematic and were often switched out for the Hitachi. It doesn't seem like they made nearly as many carter-weber's as they did Hitachi's. The weird thing is that they made them both side-by-side for several years ('82 to '84 IIRC). My '83 for example, is an original Hitachi car..... Here is what I propose you do - since you are swapping manifolds anyway, you might as well get the benefit of the EA82 carb manifold. It's a direct bolt-on. The only difference is that you have to swap to the EA82 upper radiator hose. Other than that it mounts exactly the same. Doing this will give you a better flowing manifold. Unfortunately the adaptor plate from your kit will not fit - you will have to get the manifold adaptor for the EA82 manifold.....~$35 If you can't find an EA82 to rob the manifold from at your local junk yard there are plenty of them out here on the West coast and one of the board members out here will surely have one laying around or can grab one for you. Remember to clean the gasket surfaces very well and only use manifold gaskets from the dealer - torque is 12 Ft/lbs. The carb cable mounting bracket will be attached to the manifold if you get one. And yes it would be helpful to use the throttle cable adaptor from the Hitachi - they bolt right on to the Weber. There are other ways to do it though using the Weber parts. GD

Weld up the center diff/VC and pull the front axles on a 5 speed. For the automatic's there are some tricks you can do with the duty-c solenoid that will lock it into 4WD. GD

There's only a slight problem - you need a Hitachi manifold to do the swap using the Redline adaptor plate. There is no adaptor plate made for the carter-weber single barel that you have. You will have to swap manifolds. And yes - the cable is on the other side on the Hitachi's - just like the Weber. GD

That sounds like an excelent deal. The timing belt would have been due at 105k so if it hasn't been done or they can't show paperwork to that effect I would ask them to consider a lower price. Take it for a test drive - do some sharp turns with the car and make sure you don't feel any binding in the drivetrain. If the car has been run with mismatched tires durring it's life, there is a potential for what we call "torque bind". It's not terribly difficult to fix if you can do the labor youself - if you can't then most shops will tell you the whole transmission needs to be replaced. That would negatively impact the price as well. But really, with that mileage, and that particular engine, you are looking at another 100k - 150k easy miles if you just keep up on the routine maintenance. GD

The PCV is designed for positive flow of filtered air into the passenger side valve cover, through the crankcase, out the driver's side valve cover, and into the manifold to be burned. The check valve is attached to the back of the manifold. Additionally, due to the nature of the boxer design, there is a vacuum breaker line of smaller diameter inserted between the driver's side valve cover and the PCV valve itself to prevent the system from sucking oil out of the driver's side valve cover. This is about a 1/4" ID line. All these lines as well as the plastic connectors in the system get clogged up with oil and carbon and should be cleaned once in a while (probably something on the order of every timing belt change). Note that all the air that enters the engine - for the PCV as well - is metered by the MAF. As such you don't want to make changes to the PCV system as you might inadvertantly create a vacuum leak. Even pulling out the dipstick effectively creates a vacuum leak on SPFI cars because the air inside the crankcase is metered. GD

The carbs in the 80's have vent solenoid's that only open when the engine is running. When it isn't running the tank and carb bowl are vented to the carbon canistor under the hood. You can block the fuel tank vent line at the firewall and give that a try. If you have a small hand-operated vacuum pump you could try pulling a vacuum on the tank from the vent line at the firewall - it should hold a vacuum for a short while anyway. GD

Not having ever worked on a Justy, your problem sounds like the engine isn't holding a consistent idle. That is probably a carb issue being that you are immediately able to restart it. As your problem is difficult to replicate, I think it would be best if you put in 12v lamps that illuminate to show if the fuel pump has power, etc. Make sure, as noted above, that the fuel pump connections and the distributor connections are clean and tight. I would clean and inspect every connection you can get your hands on - coil, distributor, fuel pump, etc. GD

BIG sign: "The floodlight is purely for the benefit of the Camera.... and due to the rising cost of ammunition." GD

Here's a better picture of the way the linkage should be setup. That picture archive in those old links are terrible and that linkage setup looks pretty poorly done. Notice that I used the stock throttle cable mount - just moved it to the carb base and bent it with a crescent wrench to suit the needs of the Weber. Note that this is a DGV-5A weber (manual choke). But the linkage you are asking about is the same as the DGEV/DGAV. Frankly I prefer the manual choke. GD

That is the nature of electric chokes. They have a fast-idle cam that will set the primary throttle plate slightly open for cold-running. If you don't tap the gas to release the fast-idle cam and the choke plates, the engine will simply climb in idle speed as it warms and stay there. Such is the nature of carbs I'm afraid - you can't just walk away from them. Sounds like it's working just fine. Personally, I've always had so much trouble with electric choke's in general - breaking, electrical short's, mis-adjustment, etc - that I just went to a manual choke. Now I can set the choke, start the engine, and immediately drive away. I just adjust the choke down in stages for the first mile or two and then shut it off completely. Really isn't much fuss for me. I would never give one to the woman (she would forget to shut it off) but it works great for me. GD

Splitting the sleeve is no longer the gold standard for fixing the 4 speed slop. This is the new method.... as far as I know I'm the only one who's done it but I've done several now. There's even a better version still where I drilled and tapped for a second 5mm socket-head cap screw that bisects the sleeve and rod at about a 15* or 20* angle to the primary locking bolt. It's amazing. My daily driver has had this done as well as a fellow board member's Brat. Both were done with the tranny in the car - removing only the exhaust bracket and tapping the hole with a good quality tap and a crescent wrench for a tap handle. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901 And here's another post where I detailed the second bolt I added to the linkage on my lifted wagon: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=846007&postcount=3 GD

Actually, the 5 speeds seem to age much better than the older 4's. I have yet to run across a 5 speed D/R that had really bad issues. It seems that the 5 speed's last around 400k or more - usually far outlasting the car/engine they came with. There are some that have been abused to be sure, but you can usually tell from the car..... And they are easy to work on compared to a lot of transmissions. Replacing seals, bearings, and syncro's is not that difficult. GD