GeneralDisorder

Typically, the reverse gears break because of years of partial engagement. The linkage leaves much to be desired with respect to fully engaging the reverse gear set. The tranny is junk. It will have eaten most of the teeth off the reverse gears - one of which is part of the main shaft. It would be a mistake to repair it as the cost would be high and you still have a lot of metal floating around in there. This is not as common with the 5 speeds - they have a better linkage for one - you should probably ugrade. GD

Yes, it's worth the extra money. The reason the 2WD clutch is so cheap is because no one wants them. They don't hook-up well when you are in 4WD. And yes, it is 100% bolt-in. GD

If anything, the higher compression would mean you would have to retard the timing. Maybe to 6 or 7 degree's. GD

Correct - the driver's door has no power capability since it is the only way the factory power locks are operated. You will have to add an actuator to it to make the system work. GD

You are making a mistake ordering the clutch kit for an '81 if you are going to replace the flywheel. What you need to do, is order a flywheel AND clutch for an '84 4WD GL (doesn't matter which body). This will give you the large 225mm clutch setup and matching flywheel instead of the 200mm flywheel/clutch you have now (which suck). Do this. The Subaru gods will smile upon you. You don't need or want an alignment tool for this job. Leave the pressure plate bolts loose and eyeball the disc to the center of the assembly. Install the engine and tighten the bolts when it's together. The alignment tool will give you premature grey hair I assure you. GD

Timing for EA series carbs is 8 degrees. 20 degrees is for the various forms of fuel injection. GD

Idle speed and mixture are a balancing act. Generally speaking, the idle speed screw should be set as low as possible to maintain a good solid idle and smooth progression. Start with the mixture screw about 2.5 turns out. Then set your idle speed to 700 +/- 100 RPM. Adjust the idle screw IN till it begins to stumble and the engine changes pitch. Now count the turns OUT till it does something similar. Set it just about in the middle, maybe a schosh on the rich side. Then set the idle speed screw a second time to 700 +/- 100. Then tweak the mixture till you like how it runs and the progression from idle to primary is smooth. If you can't get a smooth progression then you probably have vacuum leaks or other carb issues besides the idle settings. To set the timing, get a timing light and turn the distributor till you show 8 degrees BTDC on the flywheel. If you don't have a light then set it with the engine not running. Just set the flywheel to 8* BTDC, then adjust the distributor till the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower. If you have a good eye you can hit 8* within about half a degree. Good enough anyway. If it was way off before you set it, then you probably will need to adjust the idle speed and mixture again. GD

The dealer is the only source. If the cone washer is chewed up, good chance the hub mating surface is worn as well and possibly the splines are chewed out of it. The "cone washer" as we refer to it, is actually a taper-lock bushing. What most folks don't understand is that it is IMPERITIVE that the OD of the taper lock bushing be smooth, and that the slot be clear and clean. The slot is what allows the taper-lock to clamp down on the axle shaft - it's what centers and affixes the hub to the axle shaft. These are precision machined parts and when worn they are worse than useless. The axle nut drives the taper-lock into the hub, closing it - clamping and centering the hub to the axle shaft. An improper fit here will allow movement of the hub on the axle and everything will wear out in short order - taper-lock, hub, and axle are all potentially wrecked. The torque value of the axle nut is set to 150 Ft/lbs as that is what is needed to properly seat an UNDAMAGED taper lock bushing into the hub. No amount of torque will properly seat a damaged bushing - the key is to use undamaged parts, assembled in the right order, and with the reccomended torque value. GD

That bumper is off a single sealed-beam car as they have the turn-signals outboard of the headlights. You should have a GL bumper that has the turn signals in it. If you put orange lamps in the side-markers they do better as turn signals. GD

Do you have a multi-meter? They are $2.99 on sale at Harbor Freight and are invaluable for stuff like this. Take a reading between the battery negative and the back of the alternator (the output lug). You should see 14.5 volts DC +/- 0.25 VDC. Then take a reading between the battery positive and the back of the alt. That will give you the voltage drop between the two. You should see less than 0.25 VDC here. If you see more - like 1 or 2 VDC or more - then you have a bad connection somewhere between the output lug and the main junction (fusible links), or between the main junction and the battery. Then set the meter for AC voltage (yes that's alternating house current). Take another reading from the battery negative and the back of the alt. You should see almost nothing. If you are getting more than 1 or 2 volts of AC current then your alternator has a bad rectifier. If all those are OK, then you may have a bad battery lead going to ground or to the starter (check resistance and INSPECT the cables where they are attached to the lugs). Bad connections due to corrosion of the aluminium wires is common. If all your connections look good you may have a bad battery. This may or may not be due to a bad alternator or bad connection (see above). GD

The evap line is next to the fuel supply line (smaller of the two). The return line is to the left of the steering shaft about 8 or 10 inches from the supply/evap lines. Don't block it unless you install a vented tank cap. That's the only way the tank vent's and you'll cause a vacuum in the tank if you block it. EA82's are completely different so don't bother taking a pic for him. GD

When you search that site, bring up the parts listing for an '86 RX (or any year RX for that matter), and select the axle that says "25 Spline I.B." Looks like they are $85. Not bad although my local dealer in EMPI axles is cheaper by a little bit. Last set of EA82's I bought were $65 each. They list them for $80 so about $15 more per. You might check around your area for an EMPI dealer (places that specialize in air-cooled VW's are a good place to start - that's where I get mine). GD

Hhhhmm - for some reason you link to the NASIOC search doesn't work Rob. Here's what I know from my research. Subaru changed the injector style on their Turbo's to a style similar to that of the non-turbo's durring the time that we didn't get any of their turbo engines for the US market. So that the old EJ22T injectors are different than the newer EJ20T and EJ25T injectors that are on the WRX/STi and other turbo models. That means that in order to interchange the injectors from the newer turbo's to the EJ22T, you have to change the fuel rail. What you need is the NON-Turbo fuel rail from a 93 or 94 EJ22. These will allow you to install newer turbo injectors on the EJ22T and will bolt up to the fuel system of the EJ22T. Just get a used set from the junk yard or ask if anyone has a set over on www.legacycentral.org. If you aren't making any modifications to the engine, try to stick with injectors that are rated at about the same CC's or you will have to change them all, and change the fuel pressure to match which is going to make it more difficult than just a simple parts swap - it would have to be tuned with probably at least a wideband. The other option is to get a used set of 22T injectors and have them rebuilt and flow-tested. A wise investment if you don't plan to otherwise mod the car. GD

I don't know of any "tests" you can do. Unless your clutch cable is too tight then slipping is going to have something to do with the clutch and you'll have to open it up. When you tear it down - check the flywheel step with a caliper or a depth gauge if you have one. There can be quite a bit of wear to the flywheel surface and it may not be immediately apparent. I just replaced the clutch in a Legacy and the flywheel looked like it had a machined step in it but it was all wear - probably .005" to .010" of wear. Not that this would be enough to make it slip, but it wouldn't help matters any. If, for example, your flywheel was improperly machined the last time the clutch was replaced, and subsequently has worn further - leading you to beleive you needed to replace the clutch.... you see where this goes? You HAVE to measure stuff. This is why I own calipers, depth gauges, mic's, dial indicators, etc. Without measurement, you just don't know what will happen when you put stuff together. When I get a flywheel back from the machine guys, I ALWAYS check them. I've never had a problem because I warn them ahead of time that they have to machine the step properly and I make sure they have the right spec. There can't be any guesswork if you want a machine to work properly. GD

Are you sure the pressure plate bolts are tight? The release bearing doesn't hang-up at all on the transmission quill does it? Otherwise, I would suspect the pressure plate is sub-standard quality or the flywheel step was more worn than you thought. Possibly a combination of both. It's not worth saving $35 to just leave the flywheel unless you are really hard up for money. And it's noth worth saving $50 on a cheap clutch kit either. Way to far to go to get back in there if there's a problem. GD

Actually, being the EA81 has an 8.7:1 compression ratio already, it would handle small amounts of boost without any internal modifications. About 5 Lbs should make a noticeable difference - probably bringing it right up near 95 or 100 HP. Is it worth the trouble? No. But it could be done if you know how to setup a blow-through carb. You still wouldn't get close to the performance of a non-turbo EJ22, and the cost/complexity would both go up. GD

Yes, it is possible to put one on it. No, you don't have the skills to do so. If you did you wouldn't have to ask. GD

Did you surface the flywheel? It could have been worn leading to insufficient clamping force, or if may have been resurfaced to the wrong specs - some shops/people don't understand that you have to surface both the friction suface and the PP mounting flange to insure the flywheel has the correct "step" or it won't work as designed. GD

There are good deals out there in the used market. Just about a week ago I saw a Quincy QR-240 on an 80 gallon horizontal tank - brand new Baldor 5 HP single phase motor - freshly serviced and painted. $650. That's the kind of machine you want. That's about a 15 CFM @ 100 psi unit. They don't make the 240 anymore, and that one was probably from the 60's or 70's but you can still get all the parts to rebuild them. Built like a heavy-duty truck engine with disc valves, cast iron crankcase, cylinder, rods, and crank, timken roller bearings for the mains, etc, etc. I have a QR-325 that came into work after some electrician working down at a school district facility hooked up the 3-phase backward to the machine and walked away. They make air running backwards but there's no oil pressure. It seized and they had to buy a new one. Everyone that works at my former employer gets their own compressor eventually and that one was given to me. Just the pump - had to buy a tank and motor for it. But I got a deal on a used 80 gallon vertical and bought a new motor. I'm into it about $500 but it would be about a $6000 machine if you went out looking to buy a new one. Having completely gone through the pump and having a new motor I can safely say it will be good for the rest of my life. They often last 30+ years down in the bowels of ships or at saw mills, etc. I've personally rebuilt units from the 50's with 100,000+ hours on them. Just do some craigslist searches for "Quincy" in your area. There are lots of them out there and very often they are being given away for almost nothing in need of a rebuild. Your local Quincy dealer can set you up with a rebuild kit - it's rather like rebuilding a gas engine - hone the cylinders, new rings, replace the rod inserts, lap the valve seats and install new discs, new gaskets, etc. The only tough part is running them for a good long break-in period to seat the rings. Usually about 10 hours straight @ 100 psi will do a pretty good job. Don't be afraid of 3-phase stuff - typically you can just pull off the motor and replace it with a single phase equivelent with a minimum of rewireing. If you can rebuild a car engine - why not a compressor? It's not that big of a learning curve really. GD

Used DGV's are worth $75 to $125. Based on having rebuilt a ton of them, knowing what problems you *might* run into, etc. You can get a brand new legitimate Weber with the adaptor plate for $325. The adaptor by itself is $40, you WILL need a rebuild kit and probably a number of jets to correctly setup a used one - that's easily worth $75 in parts. $325 - $40 - $75 = $210. Then you have to figure depreciation from being a used carb - some of it's life is used up. Plus the labor to rebuild + rejet. It's not very economical in the end unless you pay ~$100 for it and you give it at least a cursory inspection first. An EMPI knock off? Make the moron take it back or at least refund 50% of what you paid. Sounds like you'll at least need a throttle shaft bearing kit, rebuild kit, some jets, adaptor plate, labor, etc. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for that thing and I probably wouldn't buy it at all. You got sold a bill of goods - maybe he knew - maybe he didn't. Ask him to work with you on his misrepresented item. GD

Go to the Portland yards. You are close enough and there's no sales tax here. Any of the LKQ self-service yards will have dozens of EA82's. GD

What I meant was that I have a picture that I personally took of some side trim on an '85 GL-10 that says "Leone", and it was here in Oregon. Some kind of fluke I suppose. The other side of the car said Subaru so maybe it was a replacement or a screw-up at the factory. I really don't know. GD

Which jets? GD

Depends on the EA71. If it's the fat-case EA71 with the starter to the right of center then yes, it can be done. If it's the center-top mounted starter then no. It hasn't been done to my knowledge with the center-top starter anyway, and I don't see that it would be worth the trouble either. GD