GeneralDisorder

That's one of those experience things. The only really bulleproof way to tell is to remove them, dissasemble them, and inspect them for wear. Order new boots, and buy NLGI #2 moly grease for the job. Clean them out, inspect them, and reboot them with new grease. Chances are about 50/50 the axles aren't bad - they may have old grease that's turned to goo - that in itself will eventually kill them though so again it's a WAG as to the condition of the axles without a detailed inspection. Anyone that tells you different hasn't done enough axles. The condition of your transmission mounts and your struts play into all of this. A bad set of mounts, or a bad set of gas struts can cause severe vibration in the drivetrain - eventually leading to CV and DOJ failure. GD

The crankcase is part of the manifold vacuum system. If your oil cap is loose and rattling then your mixture won't be correct. Any leaks like the filler cap or the o-ring around the dipstick ARE vacuum leaks to a fuel injected engine. They should be treated accordingly. Replace the rubber under the filler cap and adjust the ears till it's tight. R&R the entire PCV system including the ports on the valve covers. They like to carbon up something feirce. It's best to remove the valve covers and get everything clean. Replacing the hoses isn't a bad idea, but the old one's can usually be cleaned with some effort. GD

It's easy - you don't need help. GD

He stated it was a 4WD. GD

The DSV's are run from a square wave produced by the ECU. I beleive it's controlling the ground for them. The ECU will report a code if there is a problem with them - 31 and 32 indicate circuit faults. Testing them for proper opening and closing should be simple with a peice of hose to blow through when they are energized. This is a huge can of worms though. You could just rejet the carb to a non-feedback and rip all that crap out. You are better off that way in the long run. The whole feedback system is messy, and expensive for almost no benefit. You *might* see 1 MPG, but probably not. It was there to comply with emissions regs not to provide better fuel economy. If it did they they would have made them all that way. I battled with the feedback for a long time before I decided it was a lost cause. It's too old, too primitive, and too much work to use it. GD

Unless it's a CA model, it shouldn't have an ECU. I prefer the 84+ Hitachi's myself. Or an 82/83 that's been converted to the 84+ style choke vacuum pull-off. GD

If the engine was not running when the second fuse blew, then your problem is NOT the alternator. You have a short somewhere. The alternator does sound weak though - should be 14.2 to 14.8. Most in good condition will be right at 14.5 at the sensor junction. GD

If you can't see any connectors that you haven't connected, then first try to tighten each set - make sure they are fully seated. If that fails then you need to start tracing the power and ground leads to the ECU as it controls fuel pump operation and ignition system operation. You are missing fuel or spark by the sounds of it. Could be as simple as the fuel pump relay not being plugged in. GD

Yes. Price is difficult. Both items are rare. Probably: Tranny - $200 to $300 LSD rear - $150 to $200 Maybe less if you get lucky at a u-pull yard - you could go for years and not see either though. GD

Yeah - they will do a *little* for large groups like that, but they offer their discounts based on how much you spend with them rather than your potential buying power. My company has over 200 employees across 4 states - not to mention the company's buying power itself. They won't do anything for us. Their parts are crap anyway - the only place that's worse is Shucks. I would rather go to Autozone - at least their crappy parts are cheap. GD

Yeah, they suck, they are expensive, and they don't give decent discounts till you spend a LOT of money with them in a regular basis. I work for a large machinery company and we can't get any breaks with Napa. Do your business with discount dealerships, or from online vendors. GD

So bend it back if it's in the way. You don't even need an overflow - EA81's never had them in the first place. As long as the system is tight and operating correctly, you won't lose any coolant. GD

It's shot. The problem resulted from a loose linkage - the shift dog doesn't engage far enough when the linkage is loose like that, and eventually shears off. Now that it's gone though, there is no point in fixing it - too expensive and labor intensive. Just replace the tranny. GD

Between the valves isn't the problem. That type of cracking is known, and was addressed by Subaru as unimportant. The problem with them is they crack in the exhaust ports, and leak coolant, and they can't hold head gaskets due to the weak bolt system. Studs are near impossible to find for a reasonable amount of money due to them being a strange metric size. This has all been addressed - do some searches if you want to know. GD

You'll be fine as long as you swap the whole brake assembly. Backing plate, wheel cylinders, and shoes. Some of the EA82 rear drum assemblies are self adjusting as well. GD

Cool - that's very helpful. GD

Should be identical for all EA81/EA82 FWD's. GD

No. Clean it out. You really think dirt, metal shavings, and varnish are helping your transmission? GD

#1 is on the passenger side front of the engine (toward the radiator). GD

Scotty's cocktail or pure Redline are good choices. ATF is great for transmissions, and for cleaning things. Sadly you don't have a transmission - you have a transaxle. You have to comprimise between transmission lube, and hypoid gear oil. Run ATF to flush the tranny - no problem there for a few hundred miles to get things cleaned up. Then switch to something with enough sulfer to protect the hypoid differential gears, and still allow good operation of the syncro's. This is the reason that Subaru's require expensive synthetics, or cocktails to feel right when they are old. When new a high quality GL-5 will work fine, but even owners of new WRX's and such have experienced grinding and poor shifting after only 20,000 miles or less. It's just a result of the design and the comprimises inherent in it. GD

"Character" is something I look for in a car, not an engine. The dark side is strong with the force - temp you it will GD

Nope.

Most of the guages will work the same. Except for the EA82T being a huge peice of crap, it's actually quite compatible as far as the gauges go. Oil pressure, and coolant temp are really the only two you need to worry about anyway, and both of them are 100% compatible. Just hookup the wires and go. GD

Are you saying all you need is the wireing schematic? I can scan it for you if that's what you need to verify the failure and design a fix for it. GD

It reads in 1 degree increments from 0 on up. It's always interesting to see the ambient temperature from mine in the mornings. Should work fine for the application you have in mind. Thermocouples are very accurate - this is the same type of sensor used on your motherboard to monitor CPU temps, etc. They are also virtually indestructible. They are just the end of two types of special wire that's been welded together. GD