GeneralDisorder

Many have done it - do a search. GD

Wire a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor (ceramic, flame-proof) into the solenoid wires and forget about the solenoids. Do that for both the EGR and the Purge solenoid. If you still get the code, wire them directly to the ECU with a 12v fused supply under the dash. Actually it might be good to do that and leave the dead solenoids under the hood for show. When you go to have it tested, warm up the rig then connect the EGR vacuum line. Disconnect it when you have passed. EGR only opens under load, at about 1500 RPM and higher. Purge is uneccesary - it will not affect their tests. GD

Duh! If people only listened more to the advice they came here seeking - posts wouldn't be very long usually. GD

I have a set of those exact same seats in my Hatch - they too came from a coupe. I got them from Rob No vinyl on the covers except the sides that you don't touch. Very choice - on mine the foam is pretty far gone - I would reccomend you consider having new foam put in at least the drivers seat before the metal starts rubbing on the material. It happens to all the EA81 seats on the drivers side unfortunately. That's a nice coupe - some rare bits on it too. But it's not at all unusual to find EA81's in that overall condition here. Just don't see many coupes, and I've never personally seen a set of louvers. Even here those are rare. I have no rust to speak of on any of my 3 EA81's, nor have I ever had one with considerable rust. I have seen a few on the coast that were horribly rotten from the salt air - but they are beach locals. Hope you get to see the pacific ocean before you leave. GD

There is nothing in the crank circuit to speak of. A few wires, starter switch, and the fusible link. It is one of these: 1. Battery. 2. Battery terminals. 3. Ground cable from the negative post to the engine. 4. Positive cable to the starter. 5. Starter switch. 6. Crank circuit wiring. What you have is a problem with the CRANK CIRCUIT. Start with the battery - load test it. Replace the positive and negative terminals and wires on general principle - welding cable works well and is inexpensive. With those replaced and a known good, load tested battery, jumper the positive terminal on the starter to the solenoid spade terminal using a 12 AWG wire. If you have done everything correcty, the engine will turn over. If the starter switch and vehicle wireing are still not making the starter turn, then the switch or harness is not allowing sufficient current to reach the solenoid. Use the existing wireing to run a relay and supply the solenoid with fused, full battery voltage through a 12 AWG from the relay. Troubleshooting this stuff isn't difficult, but you can't do it by shotgunning parts at it or reading tea leaves. Nor can us board members look into some crystal ball and tell you what's wrong with it. Telling us that "you are sure" things are good is frustrating - test what we ask you to, bring us the results, and learn from our knowledge. GD

Buttons didn't become vogue till the late 80's. Basically it started as a marketing ploy towards women. Anything made before that will have a lever, and you might have to get out and lock in the hubs. And a lot of newer stuff still does. I know the last Nissan (pathy) I was in still had a lever and it was an automatic. More exotic, or larger vehicles often had ways of engaging stuff without levers prior to that, but it was done because a lever would be too difficult to operate - many of the 2-1/2 Ton Military trucks for instance had a switch that would air-engage the front wheels after you had shifted it to 4WD. Otherwise only the tandems would have power. GD

Which trim? There's about 3 different styles and it varies according to year. A picture would be most helpful. '85 and later has nothing to do with your 83. GD

The EA81 intake doesn't flow as well as the EA82, and the carb base is different. GD

Extreme vibration is often a result of bad DOJ's. The outer CV's either click, or just explode. They don't cause much vibration. GD

One tight turn in 4 high is usually enough to learn most folks that this practice isn't fun to drive anyway. You would have to be about as smart as a bag of hammers to keep driving it in 4WD after a single attempt to park it in an ordinary lot space.... my point is only that warning him of potential damage is really uneccesary as he's only going to try it once, and a single time is not going to hurt it. If it were we would be seeing tons and tons of old Subaru's for sale with bad 4WD related components. That just isn't happening, thus I say it's a non issue. No need to scare the man - some things are best learned by experience. GD

Not from the dealer. You will have to use an aftermarket unit for anything cooler than the stock 192. I can't fathom why you would want a cooler thermostat though. If you are running hot, it's either a problem with your cooling system, or your guage is reading wrong. Fix it right - don't band-aid it with cooler thermostat's and cause even more problems for yourself. GD

Well - first we need to know what type of transmission you have. Then we can figure out why things don't "spone" or "transfore". Perhaps a lack of vowels? GD

The XT6 clutch will work if you use a Nissan truck TO bearing. It will fit onto the 4 speed TO bearing holder, and will match the XT6 pressure plate fingers. Then you use an EA82 flywheel, and a stock EA81 disc. At least that's what the word is from a couple people that have done it. You are far, far better off going with the 5 speed for all the trouble of the job though. GD

I have a question that is in no way intended to detract from this awesome product. In fact I am in the market - which is why I ask. How has the exact location for the transmission input shaft been determined? There are no locator pins that I can see in the design - such as the engine bell-housing has - for precise location of the input shaft into the flywheel pilot bearing? In discussing this with others at one of the shows a while back it was pointed out that many designs fail to take this into account, and it could result in premature pilot bearing or input shaft bearing failure if it were not fairly well aligned. It seems by the locating dowels in the stock bell-housing that Subaru didn't think the bolts/holes were enough to insure this on their own. Anyway - I haven't made an adaptor plate before - so perhaps I'm overlooking something obvious that would accurately determine this without the dowel pins.... so forgive me if I'm completely in the rough with this question. GD

It will likely come back. Nothing ever got fixed by leaving it sit in the yard. GD

Yes you can fit a modern aftermarket head unit, but you can't fit a newer Subaru head unit with weather band. They are 1.5 DIN tall. GD

Alternators fail in a multitude of ways. Each one has it's own set of symtoms. Once you understand how an alternator works, it's relatively easy to work out what failed. Here's a quick run down off the top of my head: 1. Bearing failure. This usually just causes noise, but the vibration can cause the brushes to arc and this will damage the regulator and rectifier. 2. Rectifier diode failure. This happens when one or more of the diodes in the rectifier bridge fails. This WILL result in some measure of Alternating Current to pass through to the system. AC doesn't charge batteries, and it doesn't allow the regulator circuits to work properly. This has the side effect of defeating the diode's in the warning light power circuits of the guage cluster and causes them to glow dimly or "flicker" as the half-wave rectified AC current flows backwards through the shared power circuits of many of the warning lamp bulbs. This is what people refer to as the "Christmas Tree" and is one of the more interesting, and poorly understood of the alternator failure modes. 3. Regulator Integrated Circuit failure. This happens usually because of heat (bearings, ect), or because some other component failed and put too much strain on the regulator circuits (usually resulting in a heat failure). This causes the alternator output to go above or below the "regulated" output (14.5v +-0.3v) - depending on what exactly failed in the circuit. This is where you see either the whole system run out of power, or the voltage spike up to 15+ volts. If the regulator fails low, then to a lesser or greater extent the "charge indicator" lamp will glow. What people fail to understand is that the charge indicator is not an all-or-nothing type of lamp. It indicates the differential between the battery output and the alternator output. If the battery is putting out 12.5, and the alternator is putting out 11.5, then you have only a 1 volt potential across the charge indicator - it will glow VERY dimly - probably so dim you can't see it in daylight. Thus the alternator is not charging the battery - as the input voltage to the regulator dies off, so does the output, and you have a situation where the battery dies, the car dies, and you are left wondering why the charge indicator didn't come on. You just have to understand what is going on, and what that lamp is reading. It illuminates when you turn the key to "on" without the engine running because there is 12.5 volts potential across it due to the alternator not spinning at all. You also need to understand that any one of these failures can QUICKLY lead to any of the others - as in within seconds under the right conditions. So what you usually have is a combination of these failures. GD

You need to post in the "new generation" forum. This is pre-90 and Loyales. GD

Do you really want to crawl inside the head of the engineer that put the drain plug there? I don't. GD

Only if they are both 4WD. If the wagon were 2WD, the mid-pipe would be different. GD

Dealership GD

You'll yard the gears right out of a D/R. Just as an example, the EJ22T had the JDM 5 speed to handle the 160 HP it puts down stock. Modded to 200+ HP and we are seeing gears strip right out of them. The difference is that you can put RA gearsets in the 22T AWD tranny - there is nothing made that will work with the EA D/R to hold 200 HP - let alone 300. Since you'll need an adaptor plate, and you are obviously going to be doing a T-case swap anyway, there is no reason to bother with the D/R at all - in fact it's pretty silly. Use a Nissan 720 truck transmission along with the T-case, or a T-case from a Samuri. The Sammy t-cases have a high range reduction of 1.2:1, and can be geared for a low range of 6:1 or more. At least that combination has a chance - and it's lighter anyway - what do you need a whole transaxle for when a simple transmission will do? GD

As long as you stay away from the 4WD lever on hard surfaces you can run any sizes you want front to rear. Each axle should be similarly sized though. GD