GeneralDisorder

These are a good reason to own a torch set. Bit of heat to the bracket - little bit of Yeild (my choice) and they will impact right out of there. GD

Use blue locktite (242, or 248 stick) next time Use a torch to take it apart. You won't hurt the spring steel as long as you direct the torch at the bolt heads, and don't quench the thing with water while it's hot. If it was ultra-critical that it didn't get hot, it wouldn't even be near a friction surface like the clutch anyway. Just don't dump ice-water on it. The surrounding material will not get to 600 degrees - just the bolt. The pressure plate will disperse what heat it takes like a sink. Mild steel turns a bright purple color around 570 degree's. Do a search online for a steel color/temp chart. GD

That's comparitively rare on stock turbo's with stock boost levels. The thing would have to be RED hot when you shut it off (not impossible), and there would have to be almost no coolant flow through it. The coolant will continue to circulate via convection and prevent the oil passages from getting hot enough to cook the oil. Although if, by some circumstances, you do cook the oil inside the turbo - there is little that can be done to fix them. First mod I would do is an intercooler, oil cooler, larger radiator (more capacity, more cooling surface), and added cooling fan capacity. From there you need an array of gauges to make ANY modifications toward higher power output - Exhaust gas temp, wideband air/fuel, boost, coolant temp, oil temp - AT A MINIMUM. Cylinder head temp, oil pressure, and vacuum (often integrated with boost) are strongly reccomended for proper tuning. A Lean mixture under boost will destroy an engine in SECONDS. THE biggest problem folks run into with turbo's is lack of cooling. The second biggest is lack of fueling. Turbo's run rich and hot. The number one mistake people make is spending their money on "go fast" parts without the neccesary knowledge or insturmentation to safely implement them. That's why there's so few "reliable" modded turbo's out there. There's at least $1,000 worth of supporting mods that are absolutely neccesary before you gain even 1 HP. GD

You need the waste gate in almost all applications as it prevents the turbo from running too fast. It can overheat and cook the oil. Almost all Subaru turbo's run bushings rather than bearings and the turbo will be TRASH if you overheat it and coke the oil. GD

Waste of time. GD

10 minutes is about how long it takes for the choke to pull off completely. Sounds like you have a severe vacuum leak or a badly adjusted idle speed/mixture. A clogged idle circuit in the carb would do it as well. Hitachi's are a pain in the rump roast. Even for us that know them well. GD

Cable is likely broken. GD

Vacuum leaks most likely. Some of them may require a carb rebuild. The throttle base shafts are probably worn and will need bushing. Spray around with carb cleaner till you encounter a spot that causes an increase or a steadying of the idle - there will be a leak near there. GD

That's pretty typical of the rear auto-adjusting drums. When they go they often go with style. GD

I've only been threatened with this. Been stopped over a dozen times - many of them on the same car - NEVER once have I been written for the windsheild being cracked. If you aren't an rump roast to the cop, and you tell them you intend to fix it as soon as you have the money they won't write you. The ticket is too small, too easy to avoid paying (show a receipt [even if you make it in excel yourself ] and it's dropped), and their reason for stopping you was to see if they could find something BIG to ticket you for - uninsured, suspended license, ect. They would rather you NOT fix it so they have a reason to pull you over any time they choose. If you keep your paperwork in order, drive within the laws, and treat the cops with respect you'll be fine never fixing it. Even if you get stopped by the same cop and he writes you for it being cracked you make up a receipt in excel and get the ticket dropped. If the same cop pulls you over a third time after you supposedly fixed it - well you work next to a gravel factory and $hit happens - they can't/won't bother to disprove you - it's not worth their time. GD

Corvallis is outside the DEQ boundary and will not require an emissions test. The VIN inspection (if they bother - often they do not on very old vehicles such as yours) will be $7 and is performed by a DMV employee. They walk out to the car and look at the VIN on the dash - nothing more. In other words - you don't need to make any changes to the car at all. GD

Front crank seal, cam seals, and oil pump seals are likely. Just do them all - you'll find the culprit in the process. Running the oil pump wouldn't do any good unless the engine was turning. Best thing is just to do it all. GD

Not worth it for 40 HP and an unreliable engine. EJ22 will be easier, and will give you around 60 HP without the trouble of the turbo. Either way the wiring is the trouble for most folks. There's some that have converted the EJ22's to run carburetors. Do a search. GD

Verify the temp with another gauge before you do anything. DMM with a thermocouple is useful, or a laser temp gauge. GD

You just need a refrigeration condensor that suits your size needs. Hell - you could build your own from AC copper tubing if you really wanted to. Find someone in your area that can work on refrigeration and enlist their assistance or pick up a book on the subject. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out what you need based on the sizes of the old unit, etc. GD

At the drivers side kick panel attached above the hood release cable bracket you will find the fuel pump control unit (or revolution sensor). It needs a tach signal to run the pump after it primes for a few seconds. GD

If you know what you are doing and have done it before - a few hours. If not - give it a weekend to install and tune it properly. GD

No one said anything about a beam style suspension. What we said was torsion "TUBE". The bars are encapsulated in a single tube. And no - it doesn't have springs. That's what the torsion bars are for. It has external shocks and an internal (adjustable on the 4WD's) torsion bar assembly. GD

32/36 DGV. Look for them on Ebay - often listed as VW Weber's. If you get familair with the terms used around the various communities to describe the same basic carb you can often get a good deal on them. Anything under $100 for one in good condition (probably needing a cleaning and gasket replacement) is a good deal. Figure about $200 or a bit more if you find one, rebuild it, buy the adaptor, and jet it yourself. About $400 will get you the complete kit from Redline. It's overpriced IMO, but works for a lot of folks that don't know carbs real well. There's also the SPFI swap if you prefer fuel injection and aren't scared of some wiring: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

You are mistaken thinking this would "simplify" the swap. It would be a nightmare for a number of reasons. A full understanding of what is going on with the EJ carb/distributor swaps would help you understand. Hint: You can't just use ANY distributor. GD

EA81 Hatch. There's really no comparison. GD

A Weber sounds like your speed to me. 32/36 DGV - same as much of the VW world uses. Turbo or Supercharging, while possible, wouldn't go far without eating your transmission, then the engine, and ultimately your wallet as well. VW guy do this stuff all the time - sure. But at great cost in both money and reliability. Be happy you have a reliable 63 HP. GD

No - it doesn't. The torsion bars themselves (inside the tube) are independant. There's a seperate bar for each trailing arm. They have nothing to do with each other. That's why it's called "independant suspension" GD

The bar is connected to two points on each arm rather than the conventional arrangment of one point on each arm and two points on the body. Actually the point of the sway bar is to limit the amount of difference in the travel of the two arms. If one goes up the sway forces the other one to match - and so forth. This keeps the car from tilting as the only way that can happen is if one arm is up and the other one down. Going into a corner the outside arm will compress and the inside will extend. The sway bar causes the outside arm to exert a compression force on the inside, and the inside exerts a pulling force on the outside. The bigger the bar the more it tends to keep them level with each other. GD

At least as far back as '82 - I've seen them. GD