GeneralDisorder

Had the same problem on my '83 Hatch. The back of the gauge cluster where the voltmeter attaches to the circuit board was crusty. Cleaning under the nuts/washers fixed the problem. Knowing how max is "exposed".... did you use the original gauge cluster? I would say it's just been exposed to the elements too long. Some dielectric grease would help matters I'm sure. GD

Cold air intake? It already comes from under the fender.... how much colder do you want? Besides - colder air means worse gas mileage. If you need more power, get a Legacy - they are cheap, and more reliable. GD

I just did something similar on a Ford Contour - worked fine.. But there's still no need on an EA - tighten through the starter hole. GD

Your first task is ALWAYS to verify the problem. You may not even be overheating. When the AC is on, RPM decreases, alternator output decreases, and more electrical devices are in use. Ripping into the cooling system without verifying the temp with an entirely seperate meter would be senseless. GD

Very much like the EA82 AC system really. The whole EA81T was setup similar to the EA82 from an accesory standpoint. Not that EA82 parts would bolt straight on, but they could be made to work without a lot of modifications I should think. GD

Yes - there was a shelf. You would have to make one or find an EA81T and drill out the spot welds for that peice. I don't have a picture, but if you drill out the spot welds for the jack holder it's not hard to figure out what you need to support a battery. Something better than the factory shelf could easily be made. The jack on the EA81T's was inside the spare tire - the donut was flipped around so the "inside" of the wheel faced up, and they had a special jack that fit into a special clip on the spare "wing nut". GD

You aren't supposed to "feel" the torque. You use a socket under each of the two rocker tube bolts durring your torque procedure, then you remove the rocker tube bolts, install the rockers, and re-torque just the two bolts you removed. That tool is for "re-torqueing" after a cooldown, then again after a mileage interval. It is not needed if you use the Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets as they never need retorqueing. Thus the tool is obsolete. You can also make a socket for the job by turning down or grinding a regular shallow socket to fit if for some reason you wanted one for the novelty. Also that valve adjustment tool is basically useless on hydro lifter engines. The procedure is completely different and doesn't use any feeler guages. The tool is not effective for that job. GD

My poleasure GD

Unless it's a turbo, I highly doubt you have a cracked head. Extremely uncommon. GD

You don't need a clutch alignment tool for any EA subaru. I haven't used one in years. Eyeball the disc. Leave the bolts for the PP loose so you can just slide the disc around but it doesn't flop like a dead fish. Install the tranny. Tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole. GD

Just get some gasket paper and use a ball bearing to knock out the holes for the cover. GD

If they don't slide right in, you need to dress the surface of the shaft. Abrasive cloth and a file or piece of sharpening stone will get them in shape. Coat the surface of the shaft in anti-sieze then thin it with a drop or two of oil. That will help it slide in smoothly. Careful insertion will avoid binding - rotating and working it side to side can help. Forcing it will only result in it binding more. Pounding them in is actually quite bad for the bearings as you are impacting the balls between the inner and outer bearing races. This will cause beaing failure in pretty short order. Expect to be replacing them soon. You can also easily gall the shaft or the bearing races doing that. The factory tool pulls them in without impact but should still not be used unless the fit is smooth and no binding is encountered. GD

Remove the stock jack holder and move the battery to the other side as it was on EA81T's. Put the jack behind the seat. GD

I've never had a problem adjusting them without any special tools. Get some metric feeler gauges or better yet some metric shim stock. At work we have 36" loose metric feeler gauges made from shim stock - having them really long makes them easier to work with. Get some metric "midget" open end wrenches. I do it from under the car on a creeper. Takes 20 minutes at most. GD

TDC on the compression stroke? 1. Find TDC on the compression stroke of #1 2. Turn the flywheel BACK to 8 degrees BTDC. 3. Line up the rotor with whichever cap tower you want to be #1 4. Install the wires in the order 1,3,2,4 counter-clockwise from the one you chose to be #1 I am rarely off by more than 1 degree doing it this way. GD

I recently had a similar result with a VW type 3 sqaureback. Sat for 13 years. I had to dissasemble the fuel pump as it had just the slightest amound of varnish keeping it from turning. Fired right up on 13 year old gas. GD

You don't understand - the pin on the ignition switch has no connection to the starter or anything else unless the key is in the crank position. Just like a relay powered off the starter solenoid would have. Except using the pin you don't need the relay. This is one of the elements required for the SPFI swap as well, and has been done both ways - using the relay as you pointed out, or by using the correct pin on the ignition switch harness under the dash. GD

GD

If it's a decal I would use a heat gun. GD

You needn't have done that actually. It's not on the starter - it's on the ignition switch. There is a pin that is hot only in crank (start). It's used for the start signal to the ECU on fuel injected models, but it's a standard arrangment on all the ignition switches - the EA81's had the pin even. Just wire that to bypass the resistor and no relay required. GD

Interco Swampers. GD

Yes - the drive gears are different between OHV and OVC (EA82) engines. Thats neat that the parts from the ND units will swap around like that. It's all up to what you know, and what you are comfortable with really. Electronic's were just a way for the manufacturers to get away from short maintenance intervals, and be able to drive a hotter spark across a larger gap - very helpful for forced induction applications. There's also no cam to wear - no mechanical parts at all since the electronics use a hall-effect induction rotor. One thing you should take note of though - you may want to swap coil's for a more conventional coil that will mate better with a point's style system. GD

My 84 through 87 Brat/Hatch wireing diagram book shows fuse 13 as being coil power. But it could be different on an 82. Sadly this stuff changed almost yearly till 84. GD

Hhhhmmm - I haven't met the non-reciprocating automotive refrigeration pump yet. Must just be a primitive design. Or do you mean it's a crank/connecting rod recip rather than the wobble plate style that's more common. If that's the case I haven't seen one of those on a Subaru, but I haven't run across this York setup either. In industrial equipment, they are just now starting to get into the Scroll style compressors that the consumer market has been using for years. I would think that they would be excelent for automotive - more effecient, and smaller in size. Fewer moving parts as well. GD

Seriously - just start over. Get an unhacked wireing harness and start from scratch. Sounds like a serious mess - the amount of time you'll spend troubleshooting it now, and later on when another issue crops up will be far longer than swapping the whole harness. GD