GeneralDisorder

Did a bunch of coolant go down the intake when you removed the carb? GD

I know exactly how much is involved. I've had both vehicles (EA and EJ) torn completely apart, and I understand all their respective systems. Q: How much? A: WAY too much. There is no EA turbo that will give you what you want, so you can just forget about them entirely. That leaves only one option without stepping up to the WRX's and newer engines - the EJ22T. GD

Sure - but running ANYTHING beyond stock components requires a ton of work before you can do it reliably. Expect to spend $2000 to $3000 at a minimum to add proper guages, controllers, added cooling, ect before you can increase even a few HP over stock. Anything less is asking for major engine damage. Just a single injector that's not performing correctly or a glitch in one sensor can cause massive engine failure when you begin increaseing boost, or even increaseing the CFM at stock boost levels (larger turbo's). And you still don't seem to understand that the car you are working with is going to fall apart under any power levels reachable by the EJ turbo's. The EA transmission isn't going to handle it. Even the gen 1 legacy tranny can't handle it - people are always stripping gears in them just running up around 200 HP - that's only 40 HP over stock on those tranny's. Can you imagine what 200 HP will do to a tranny designed to handle 90? GD

Not with a turbo you won't. Turbo's run rich - it's the nature of forced induction and neccesary to prevent detonation and severe engine damage. Expect no more than 25 MPG with a very small turbo and driving it like a very old, mostly blind man. 20 MPG is much more realistic for a turbo of 1.8 or 2.2 size. Surely you jest right? That 93 legacy has 130 HP. A 2.2 turbo would put out 160 stock. Modded they can easily push 200 or lots more if you are willing to do the work. But installing one (after you search one down - they are rare) would be a lot of work, and even at stock HP you'll demolish the EA transmission. There's few EA turbo's that would outrun a well-maintained bone-stock 93 legacy with a manual trans. Trust me. It can be done of course. Here's the formual: Performance, Cost, Reliability. Pick two - the other one goes out the window. You're drunk, or stupid, or both. That's just plain dumb. You can get an Impreza for that. Ah - then you want an EJ, not an EA - see above comment. EJ22/EJ22T. By far the best engine subaru has made to date. Get the body to go alone with it as they are superior as well. Gulp! Ok - lets say. That depends - would you like it to last more than 10,000 miles or just make it down the street? $500 would probably buy enough parts to make it run. It wouldn't be safe, nor would it last long enough to get to 7 Eleven. Not really. You are asking for something that is not made. There is no "turbo kit". You buy a turbo CAR, or a non-turbo car. To convert between the two is a huge pain in the rump roast. Even the engine cross-member is different to allow for the major changes in exhaust routing. What you are talking about would require parts from at least 3 or 4 different cars, and you would want at least one entire donor car - such as a wrecked or otherwise wasted 91-94 turbo legacy. Then you would need a bunch of parts from an 87 to 90 EA82 turbo car to get the mechanicals to fit, and then you would have to create your own wiring harness. If you go with a non-turbo EJ22 and try to add a turbo to it - that's even more work. Completely the wrong direction with the wrong car. You want an Impreza. Pick up a 93 or 94 Imp wagon with the 1.8 and drop in a WRX front clip. That's the price range you are looking at, it's worth doing, and it will be fun, fast, and handle like a go-cart. An EA82 will be slow, unreliable, messy to modify, and even if you get those worked out it's going to handle like a bowl of oatmeal, it's got no suspension or brake options without dumping in even more cash, and what do you have then? A WRX without the WRX body that's worth no more than it was when you bought it. Bad investment. GD

You have a picture of the "butchered" unit? I might be able to make use of it depending. I don't have a parts manual for the years that had those, sorry I am no help there. GD

Speculation of that nature is frivolous and nothing more than lawn chair mechanicing. You haven't even pulled the thing apart to verify the failure, which I HIGHLY doubt is a spun bearing insert. I've seen internals with NO lubrication - so hot they melted the nylon out of the nylock rod cap nut's and seized the engine... still didn't spin. It would likely throw the rod right out the block before it spun the insert inside the aluminium rod. They are notched and compressed in such a way that they almost become one with the rod when installed. It might not even be internal - you might have a timing belt tensioner or idler that's gone south..... Yank it out, pull it down. THEN speculate. GD

Yep - waste of time and money. Buy a legacy. I got one that needed a water pump for $750 last summer from a middle aged lady - only 135k on it. The deals are out there every week. $1000 for an EA82 that's anything short of an RX or touring wagon or other rare animal is silly. I would much rather pay $1000 for a very nice EA81 hatch or Brat. GD

How did he do that? Improper installation? GD

Even if the heads are new, the o-ring doesn't come with them. It's actually more associated with the cam tower than the head itself. Make sure they are metal-reinforced o-rings and not just regular rubber. GD

Distributor is ignition timing. Belts are VALVE timing. Different animals. Different marks. You use the ignition timing marks for the disty - the ones with the numbers. You use the ||| marks with the valves. No numbers. GD

Most likely not an RX. RX's were not condusive to lifting drivetrain wise, so it was probably just a standard 3dr. They also only ever came in white and black (rare), so if it had RX stickers they were put over it's new paint job. The body kit's come off pretty easily and could have been obtained from a number of folks on here or elsewhere or from a wreck. GD

That's correct Bob - you have the right area in mind. The groove is to prevent external leakage from that joint between the head and the tower. The O-ring is on the bottom corner just to the side of that groove. It prevents pressurized oil from leaking at that joint in the galley that supply's the cam bearings, rockers, and lifters with fresh oil. It's not an external seal against simply leaking oil out on the ground - it's a high-pressure seal that keeps the oil inside the galley till it reaches it's destination. The temp of the oil, and the pressure of it's flow will collapse a standard o-ring so Subaru switched to using a metal-reinforced o-ring for that location. I use a bit of non-hardening silicone valve sealant to keep the o-ring from falling out durring installation. Make sure to keep RTV away from it as it could harden and clog a component if a small peice were to drift away. GD

All EA82's have the cam tower o-ring. But it's on between the cam tower and the head. Not in the same area as the head gasket but you do have to replace them to get at the head gasket. I'm not a tech for Subaru. I'm a tech for an industrial machinery manufacturer/distributor. Mostly I work on vacuum pumps for high-vac and ultra-vac systems used in high-tech and chemical applications. Very, very complex german made stuff that's the size of a kitchen sink and costs as much as two STi's. GD

NGK plugs and wires. Cap and rotor really don't matter. Unless you have a problem with the engine missing, you probably aren't doing much good replaceing all that stuff. Cap and rotor are cheap though. Plugs you can generally gap, clean, and put back. Wires.... it's pretty odd to see them fail on an EA series carb engine. The spark isn't very hot so they don't really degrade much. I would be spending more of my initial time and money doing the cooling system, timing belts, carb rebuild, etc. Unless I had good reason to suspect the ignition components. GD

Yep - both the voltage, and fuel gauges on my hatch were inoperative/extremely sporatic after sitting for a couple years in a driveway. The rear pop-out windows were cracked due to broken latches and that allowed moisture to get inside. Only takes a bit of condensation on the connections - a cold spell will shrink the nut/bolt assembly away from the circuit board and allow corrosion to form. There was no grease or any protective substance used on them from the factory. I found that a good cleaning and a bit of dielectric grease cleared my problem right up. I spent a while cleaning grounds, and then did a systematic voltage drop trace of the entire voltmeter circuit only to find the biggest drop was across the cluster itself. I knew it was in the voltmeter circuit because the alternator was putting out consistent 14.5 volts. GD

Had the same problem on my '83 Hatch. The back of the gauge cluster where the voltmeter attaches to the circuit board was crusty. Cleaning under the nuts/washers fixed the problem. Knowing how max is "exposed".... did you use the original gauge cluster? I would say it's just been exposed to the elements too long. Some dielectric grease would help matters I'm sure. GD

Cold air intake? It already comes from under the fender.... how much colder do you want? Besides - colder air means worse gas mileage. If you need more power, get a Legacy - they are cheap, and more reliable. GD

I just did something similar on a Ford Contour - worked fine.. But there's still no need on an EA - tighten through the starter hole. GD

Your first task is ALWAYS to verify the problem. You may not even be overheating. When the AC is on, RPM decreases, alternator output decreases, and more electrical devices are in use. Ripping into the cooling system without verifying the temp with an entirely seperate meter would be senseless. GD

Very much like the EA82 AC system really. The whole EA81T was setup similar to the EA82 from an accesory standpoint. Not that EA82 parts would bolt straight on, but they could be made to work without a lot of modifications I should think. GD

Yes - there was a shelf. You would have to make one or find an EA81T and drill out the spot welds for that peice. I don't have a picture, but if you drill out the spot welds for the jack holder it's not hard to figure out what you need to support a battery. Something better than the factory shelf could easily be made. The jack on the EA81T's was inside the spare tire - the donut was flipped around so the "inside" of the wheel faced up, and they had a special jack that fit into a special clip on the spare "wing nut". GD

You aren't supposed to "feel" the torque. You use a socket under each of the two rocker tube bolts durring your torque procedure, then you remove the rocker tube bolts, install the rockers, and re-torque just the two bolts you removed. That tool is for "re-torqueing" after a cooldown, then again after a mileage interval. It is not needed if you use the Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets as they never need retorqueing. Thus the tool is obsolete. You can also make a socket for the job by turning down or grinding a regular shallow socket to fit if for some reason you wanted one for the novelty. Also that valve adjustment tool is basically useless on hydro lifter engines. The procedure is completely different and doesn't use any feeler guages. The tool is not effective for that job. GD

My poleasure GD

Unless it's a turbo, I highly doubt you have a cracked head. Extremely uncommon. GD

You don't need a clutch alignment tool for any EA subaru. I haven't used one in years. Eyeball the disc. Leave the bolts for the PP loose so you can just slide the disc around but it doesn't flop like a dead fish. Install the tranny. Tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole. GD