GeneralDisorder

Chances are that nearly every one still out there has been swapped, traded, moved, ect so many times that there won't be a consensus on such a small detail. If they even came with the hardware originally it was metric stuff, and there's a good chance that they either didn't, or that it wasn't used all the time. Being an option, it was often up to the dealer to supply such things. Measure the thickness of the items it goes through, gauge the hole sizes, add an extra 1" (or metric equivelent) for nut, washers, and lock washer, and grab something that works. GD

Yep - just remember - yellow is the tach signal, and tach signals are always on the negative side of the coil. GD

Did you use the valve timing marks or the ignition timing marks when you put on the belts? Here's the rules: 1. Flywheel at the center of the three vertical lines on the flywheel (valve timing marks). 2. Drivers side cam mark (dot, hole, whatever you call it) straight up. 3. Passenger side cam mark straight down. 4. Install both belts and tension (don't move the cams). 5. TDC #1 on compression stroke (both valves closed - finger over plug hole test). 6. Turn flywheel BACK to your desired timing (8 for carbs, 20 for SPFI, ect). 7. Install disty with rotor pointing at whichever plug tower you wish to be #1. 8. Install wires counter clockwise from tower #1 in the fireing order 1,3,2,4. Done. P.S. - make sure the crank sprockets are on in the correct order. The one with the groove for the lip seal goes on the inside. GD

Not true. You can't say what has the biggest impact without specifying the conditions. The thermosensor (coolant) has a very large impact - for one thing the O2 sensor has NO effect when the engine is cold as it takes several minutes (sometimes 5 or 10) for the sensor to even begin reporting as they are not heated sensors. Durring that time it is ignored by the ECU because no signal from it is present. C/W's were availible at least till 84. I haven't personally seen a post-EA82 era C/W, but I've seen plenty of 83/84 models. Well - good luck with that. As I have said you'll spend just as much money screwing with that feedback system as you would buying a nice shiny Weber. And you'll get less power, worse fuel economy, and you'll still have an old, crappy carb. Not to mention you'll be dirty, high from the fumes, and will never get back the time you wasted. At least with a Weber you can yard it off and sell it on ebay for 3/4ths of what you paid for it when you get rid of the car.... GD

That's not entirely complete. Here's a full list of the ECU's input's: 1. Battery voltage (duh). 2. Ground (duh 2). 3. Speed sensor. 4. O2 sensor. 5. RPM (tach signal, coil negative, ect). 6. Vacuum switch 1 [(0 - 100 mmHg for MT, 0 - 86 mmHg for AT): ON]. 7. Vacuum switch 2 [0 - 200mmHg: OFF]. 8. Thermo sensor (coolant temp - it's a dual element sensor - one element for the gauge and one for the computer. Different than the non-feedback). And it's output's: 1. Kickdown solenoid (AT only). 2. Duty solenoid (slow). 3. Duty solenoid (main). 4. Automatic choke relay. 5. ASV Solenoid valve. 6. EGR solenoid valve (AT only). There's an entire chapter of the FSM dedicated to this - I don't have time to scan it all unfortunately. I sugest you pick up a copy for your own if you intend to work on the feedback system succesfully. GD

The jetting (inside the carb) is different. Rebuild kits do not come with jets and there's about 7 or 8 of them that have to be switched in order to make it a non-feedback version. You can tell which carb a junk yard car has by looking for the ECU, the O2 sensor, or the duty solenoids. All of those will tell you immediately if it's a feedback. There are model numbers on the back of the float chamber, but it's often difficult to read them. GD

Not really - it all depends on how you do it. New/used, rebuilt yourself, wireing, plumbing, ect, ect. Once you have done a few it becomes very easy. GD

I've seen them seize, yes. Don't know about the timing - perhaps your timing belts are loose. GD

It's not supposed to connect to anything. Leave it. No clue - power steering, AC, or automatic transmission related. It's not stock with that color hose and those clamps. Maybe a transmission cooler? Should be open when hot, and closed when cold. But that's a basic description - there's more to them than just open and close. Rate of opening, accelerator pull-off, ect. GD

There may be a few diode's you have to add for some of the tell-tale lights (I did, but I used an '80 dash), you will have (want) to change from an oil pressure idiot switch to the real oil pressure sender, and change the fuel sender. I think the coolant temp sensor is ok actually. What I did was cut the three round plugs out of the PCB on the back of the digi (destroying the digi of course), and then soldered wires to each pin. I then added the analog plugs to the other end of the wires. I initially put bullet connectors in the wires so I could proto-type the wireing and make sure it worked. Once I had it where I wanted it I cut them out and soldered/heat shrinked the wires together. GD

All years. 49 states (non-california) 4WD's had plain non-feedback. You want an 84 (any model), or an 85 through 89 EA81 Hatchback, or an 85 through 87 EA81 Brat for the proper carb. 82 and 83 would also work with slight modifications to the hose routings for the vacuum choke pull-off. The feedback and non-feedback carbs are THE SAME CARB. There's no phisical difference between them. The difference is in the jetting and how the metering ports are hooked up. GD

You may be right.... but I distinctly remember doing them on a 93 Loyale that a friend and I swapped from 3AT to 5MT. Perhaps somethine changed after the GL years. GD

You use a "cooler sandwich" that goes between the pump and the filter. Look on Summtracing.com - Flex-a-Lite makes one that will work. About $30. What you have to watch is the flow capacity of the cooler. The EA81T oil cooler was only designed to flow enough oil for the turbo itself. At 2500 RPM the EA81 pump puts out 3 times the amount of oil the cooler can handle.... Just a heads up. GD

Well - the way I read the FSM it shows it as an identifier, but also says (in the flow matrix) "the subsequent check is continued" - ie: you should continue troubleshooting straight through the lettered tests from where you stopped when it told you to check for codes (and you came up with a 73). Now that I have not seen stated anywhere in my FSM. You may be correct.... and in fact it does sound right maybe..... damn these FSM's are confusing! There's a lot of ways you can interpret it. If you run through all the detailed flow charts starting from the top we might be able to infer what the code is - but half the time the checks themselves are ambiguously worded so that you aren't even sure you passed or failed the check If he has to do that though..... that's a sign of bigger problems. If that wire isn't connected there's a bad spot in a harness somewhere. Bad juju. GD

Yeah - swapped a 4WD 3AT Loyale over to a 5 speed D/R last year and had to swap the plates. Pretty easy swap, but the bolts that hold the radius rod plates in place should be ran through a die and the holes in the body chased - they can be a pain. GD

You will have to swap the radius rod plates (and cross-member obviously) as the cross-members bolt up differently for auto's vs. manual's. Hhhmm - I'm not sure the input shaft seal on the tranny can be replaced without splitting the case apart. I will have to look closer but I'm pretty sure you can't get it out. If it's just weeping I wouldn't worry about it. I've never replaced em in any of the one's I've had one - many with hundreds of thousands of miles on them. GD

Sure - that's a Holley licensened Weber 32/36 DFV. You could make it work. You may have to be commited once you are done, but yeah - sort out enough of the emissions crap on it, rejet it, buy an adaptor plate, ect, ect. Call us in a year or two and tell us how the project is going. GD

Not really - you should buy an FSM. They show up on ebay from time to time or you can order one from the dealer. The EA81 manuals are about $80 new. GD

Just search - there's way too much information to cover it all in a single post. Search, read lots of posts, and then ask specific questions. GD

You can buy a factory service manual through the dealer - about $80. You can also sometimes find them on ebay. I seriously doubt your problem is related to the code. What you have is a seriously horrible carb setup. It's very complex, and if you really want to work with it (I don't sugest it) then you NEED an FSM. There's just no way around it. There are none scanned as far as I know. I would like to do it eventually, but I just never have the time. You don't have to buy a Weber to make it work though. Just get a non-feedback Hitachi and bolt it straight on. They are cheap - if you post in the wanted section someone will have one. Hell - I can get one from my local yard for $25 (+ shipping to you) if you like. Then you buy a rebuild kit, fix the spare carb up nice, and swap it out. When you do the swap you yank all the junk related to the feedback system out and you have a nice, simple carb. There is no silver bullet for this, and there's virtually no one here outside of myself that has worked, to any great extent, with the feedback systems. I *know* how they work, I own all the manuals, and I still won't run one. Take a look at my post count..... think perhaps I've been down this road eh? It's not hard to rebuild a carb if you are careful - you can do it, and it won't be terribly expensive. Heck - even Weber's aren't all that expensive if you get a used one cheap and rebuild it. I've done a complete Weber swap - Used carb, rebuild kit, rejeting, new choke, and adaptor plate for under $200. You'll throw away (as in trash) the same amount of money troubleshooting the feedback system. Replace the O2, the CTS, and buy a rebuild kit for the carb and you are halfway to the cost of doing a Weber swap already. There's far more money in replacing the parts of the feedback system than there is in a simple Weber without all the extra junk. GD

Any fuel pump that puts out 50 psi or so will work.... Have you tried changing the fuel filter? GD

OEM they are sealed with the three-bond equivelent of RTV. That's what I've always used. GD

It's been done - the problem with the SPFI manifold is that the base of the TBI isn't level. It has to be seriously modified to make anything bolt up to it. The best way to go if you are into that much fabrication is to just make two-peice adaptors to sit directly on the heads and run seperate carbs on each head. Drill press and a die grinder...... GD

Yes - highly reccomend his kit. I have one in my Brat behind an SPFI EA82 and it works great. You can use the EA81 flywheel (that's my preference), the EA82 disc, and the EA81 pressure plate. It will work either way. Also I have used plain unmodified EA82 flywheel's and as long as you eyeball the bolt holes to the center and lock them down with loctite blue (242 or 248) then you'll be fine. The EA82 flywheel has the advantage of being compatible with the XT6 pressure plate if you have it resurfaced to those specs. New disc anyway. I've reused many pressure plates without issue. That is the easiest way, yes. Jerry's kit comes with tranny mounts. I wouldn't worry about the seals unless it shows obvious signs of leakage. Pretty much except for linkage and wireing. You use the bone stock 5 speed shift linkage from an EA82 and the 4 speed 4WD lever with 1" added to the length of the actuator rod from the 4 speed. It bolts straight together and the body mount for the 5 speed linkage "tray" is already on your hatch - the EA81 2WD 5 speed used the same linkage mount so it already exists on the floorpan. Has to be a 4WD flywheel. The EA82 2WD flywheels are 200mm rather than 225mm. Same starter from 1980 (EA81's) through the EJ's of the late 90's anyway. Not sure about the really new stuff. EA81/EA82/ER27 are basically identical. GD

I put an XT6 alt in my hatch for a brief period, but the VR in it wanted to put out 15.5 volts so I need to rebuild it. If they have a tendancy for over-voltage like that as they age I would say get it rebuilt first. Other than that, the Amperage rating of the alt has absolutely nothing to do with it's compatibility with the components of the vehicle. Each component determines what Amperage it needs to run at. If the alt is rated at 60 amps then it can run a total of 60 amps worth of electrical devices - a normal radio might only be 5 amps, while a set of headlights might be 20 amps. An alternator with a larger rating means you can run higher draw accesories (bigger lights, stereo amps, ect), or more of them. It in no way affects the quality of the power or the voltage stability of the alternator. Being that you know soldering and electronics to some extent I would sugest you build a conversion harness such as I did to adapt the exsiting wireing to a normal analog GL cluster. The cool thing about doing this is that you can reverse the install at any time and put the digi back in. The cluster's fit exactly the same so you can swap them at will. As for the rear end sagging - I think the best way to rectify that would be to install a 4WD torsion bar assembly that has the height adjustment on it. It should bolt right in IIRC. Just use the 2WD control arms. You might have to get 4WD rear shocks but I think they are the same. Actually would be a really easy install and woudl give you the ability to crank up the suspension in the back if you have a heavy load. GD