GeneralDisorder

I'm actually in West Linn, and I work in Tigard near the Home Depot. GD

Yes - it's that way to allow room for the lip seal. Sounds like they are correct then. GD

I've used bolts - if you do it right it's not that critical. What's important is to NEVER allow the weight of the pipe to hang from the studs/bolts/etc when installing or removing the y pipe. That's what does them in every time. GD

That's just stupid. Go get a heli-coil kit. Leave the ghetto mechanicing in south america where it belongs. GD

Why do you say you are "better off"? I've always done it this way and have yet to see a problem with it. I see the reason they designed the procedure with the 360 rotation, but without belt covers it really doesn't matter as long as you have a good eye for straight up and down. GD

You would have to remove the sprockets to check if they are on in the correct order. It just so happens that they are 1/2 tooth offset - which could EASILY account for a lot of people's belts not lining up. The sprockets look identical except one has a groove for the front crank lip seal.... I bet it's also a big source of the "poor performace and mileage" reputation that EA82's have. GD

The cable may be stretching - you may want to just replace it in lieu of being stranded if it breaks (unless you know how to drive without a clutch - most people don't...). Haynes manual will give you a basic overview, yes. Read the procedure for replacing the cable and then ask any further questions you have here. If you like - send me a PM. You can pick up a cable (dealership ~$20) and stop by my place this weekend and I'll give you pointers on doing it. Looks like you are real close to me. GD

Really old EA81's and EA71's didn't have the spacers - the ASV's injected into the top of the cylinder head. Either way, it likely won't fit an XT due to the differeces in the size/shape of the dust sheilds and clearance with the cross-member. It's also almost certainly a smaller diameter - 87 XT is 95 HP MPFI - 82 GLF is 73 HP. GD

Have you removed and cleaned ALL the plastic T's and connectors as well as both valve covers? If there is any carbon blockage (there always is) you will suck oil. If there is oil in your airbox, you NEED to replace the PCV filter (white, scotchbrite looking thing). They are like $3 or less from the dealer.... get one and buy oil/air filters as well as an OEM PCV valve. Aftermarket are widely known to cause problems with sucking oil like that. The spring rate in them is wrong or something. It's best, considering you have questions about all the little bits and peices, as well as a feedback carb, to buy a factory service manual. Post in the wanted section, check ebay, or order from your dealer. GD

Make sure you don't have a leaky coolant hose or manifold gasket first. EA81's rarely blow head gaskets and I'll wager your's are fine. GD

Yep - all of it actually. There aren't really all that many sensor inputs to the ECU - 8 or 9 I think. Most are not actually "sensors" in the sense you mean. Ground, RPM (tach signal), and speed sensor are inputs, but aren't really sensors in the sense you are refering to. I don't beleive there are any ECU related relays other than for the fuel pump power. Just two duty solenoids, a couple sensors, some wireing, and the entire production volume of vacuum line for the country of Japan..... plus assorted T's, nipples, vacuum valves, thermo-vacuum valves and so forth. It will be a brass looking 17mm (maybe 19mm) thing on the back of the passeger side of the manifold. It's got two male blade connectors on it and should have an associated T style 2 prong female blade connector attached to it. It is actually two sensors in one unit - one sensor is for the ECU, the other is for your dash gauge. They read differently on the ohmeter, and if you replace it you MUST have the two blade variety or the ECU output will not be present. GD

It might sound that way at first but really think about it... 1. No special machining required. 2. No key to fail, shear, drop on the garage floor. 3. No keyway in the gear or pulley to be mangled or develop a finger-slicing sharp edge. 4. Cheap and simple to manufacture. All you need is a big-rump roast wrench? Sound awesome to me! Although the EA81's got it beat in the timing department. Timing GEAR's. Chains are good, but gears are better. GD

Fan thermoswitch (what you messed with) has nothing at all to do with the thermosensor for the ECU. Thermosensor is in the manifold - thermoswitch is in the radiator. GD

Have you made sure the crank belt sprockets are on in the correct order? The one with the groove in the back goes on the inside next to the seal. The covers ARE plastic, so the mark being 1/2 tooth off isn't out of the question. I run without covers on the EA82's I've had - always timed then just fine by going with "straigh up" and "straight down" on the marks. I use the seam at the cam case/head as a guide. GD

225mm (8 7/8") is for 4WD. You need the second one with the 1" 24 spline disc hub. 4 speed 4WD, and 5 speed 2WD share the same spline count. 5 speed 4WD's use the larger shaft - thus what you need. GD

Cool - that looks much better now. Glad it didn't actually shear it off - that would be the first failure of that kind I have seen. Our faith in the EA81 is preserved. GD

Apparently you don't understand. If there is oil in the airbox, it IS comming from the PCV system. That's the only place it can come from. I gaurantee you don't have blow-by. EA engines do not exhibit that problem. I listed a bunch of possible causes in my earlier post. It's most likely one of those. Probably metering regulators - either a component of the feedback system or regulating vacuum to the metering ports on the carb. Pictures would be best - there are too many variations over years and models to tell based on a vague verbal description. GD

What does this have to do with SPFI? 8 degree's BTDC. If you used the EA81 flyhweel then you time it normally. If you used the EA82 flywheel and didn't transfer the EA81 marks to it then you are going to have to create new marks on the crank pulley or flywheel..... 360 degrees in a circle - get out your compass. GD

In a box - UPS. I shipped an EJ22T block banded to a pallete to PA recently for $70. That was a lot heavier and there was a surcharge for the pallete. I have corporate UPS through my work. They come twice a day! GD

Good thing about the Brat tanks is they are the same as the wagon/sedan/coupe tanks (4WD). If you need a mint NW version my yards pull them and leave them in the trunk.... at least they used to. I have yet to experience any kind of tank failure out here. Or you could pull it and do a repair. There's several products out there - I've heard the POR-15 people make a kit that will seal them up good. Might want to do that even if you get a replacement. GD

Yeah - if he wants them he'll have to find the reverse switch on the tranny and run wires to the old 3AT connector. Not a huge deal though. Nope. Always best that way, but the 4WD 3AT to 4WD 5 speed is about as simple as they get. Probably only two or three trips to the junk yard GD

1. Those rarely fail. 2. Have you drained it and filled it with the proper respective fluids and made sure it wasn't just a mistake by a previous owner and/or shop? 3. Trans fluid in the front diff won't neccesarily hurt it for quite a while. You may get 10's of thousands of miles out of it before the front diff goes. Many of us run ATF in our manual transmissions (same front diff style) on purpose in order to clean/renew the syncro's. It's not detrimental to their life in a big way. 4. If/when you do the swap, it's simple. Pedal assembly (4 bolts, and some cables/brake rod), clutch/cable/flywheel, front section of the driveline, rear end if you need it (ratio change?), cross-member, shift linkage, jumper two pins on the 3AT harness for the crank circuit, and install interior consoles. GD

Vacuum leaks, timing, idle mixture, clogged idle circuit, etc. Even with worn throttle shafts I can get a Hitachi to idle at 700. EGR is just starting to kick in around 1500 RPM. EGR opens on "late ported vacuum". Starts around 1500 and opens farther as your RPM's increase. GD

Yes, but I'll lay odds the key is missing or sheared away. If the crank pulley were spinning it could easily spin the gear as well - they both use the same small key. If someone didn't tighten the bolt enough then kicked the AC compressor on a few times..... it wouldn't take much judging by the size of the key. It's not designed for that kind of load. I would take the pulley off and investigate. Good time to replace the front crank seal also. Only takes 20 minutes or so to pull it off and put it back. GD

Only way I could see it happening is if the distributor drive gear were spinning on the crank. That would require the key to be sheered away. Unlikely to say the least. Is the crank pulley bolt tight? Now that I look at an EA81 crank I have sitting here there is not much key holding the drive gear from spinning. What you may have is either no key, or a sheered key. When the AC kicks on, the belt pulley is spinning on the crank and the drive gear is spinning with it. GD