GeneralDisorder

No - that's probably not your problem. It's carb and carb tuning related. Perhaps with a dash of ignition timing thrown in. The Haynes is wrong - that's an "ignition pulse" code. It's a code specific to the model - indicating you have an automatic transmission, an analog gauge cluster, and a Hitachi carb (feedback obviously). Beyond that, diagnosing it requires about 20 pages of troubleshooting diagrams from the FSM. It could be any number of things - probably a corroded connector somewhere, or a bad splice in the harness. Truely, without a factory service manual, your options are limited - either rip it off an install a non-feedback Hitachi (or rejet your's to non-feedback spec), or rip it off and install a Weber. You'll have no end of trouble with the feedback, and as long as it's throwing a code like that you'll get extremely poor mileage as it can't properly control the air metering ports on that carb. It will default to VERY rich. 16 to 20 MPG if you are lucky. That's typical of a worn/mis-tuned carb. Also the distributor vac advance may be bad, or the timing may be off. Reset the timing, check the vac advance for proper operation, clean/rebuild the carb, set the idle speed and mixture. Yep - carbs are a pain like that sometimes. It's a learning curve. Look down the carb throat while you turn the throttle if you want to know if the accelrator pump is working. It probably is - they don't usually fail. And I doubt a carb rebuild kit alone will entirely solve the problem. It may help, but it's not a cure-all. There's too many other factors. If they are original with high mileage, or have ever been replaced with aftermarket then yes - they are prone to leaking coolant. Use only OEM gaskets, chase the threads and the bolts, use a bit of anti-seize, and torque to 12 ft/lbs only. Could be - replace with a genuine OEM Hitachi or ND coil to match your distributor. Aftermarket coils are cheap and have been known to fail or cause the ignition module to fail. Hope you figure it out. GD

Engine turning = oil pump turning. I don't see a huge problem with that frankly - regardless of how the engine is turned (burning fuel, or mechanically) as long as it maintains a high enough RPM to get the oil pressure up it should be fine. Freeway speed in 2nd gear would be a pretty high RMP though..... perhaps the damage was from sustained high-RPM. Seems like it wouldn't hurt it too much though as there's no load from the cylinders fireing. An interesting tear-down for sure either way. GD

Actually there are two duty-control solenoids that modify airflow to three metering ports on the carb. The ECU has enough control through these to cause the engine to die at an idle or to run very badly if the O2 or CTS have gone south. The ECU cannot directly modify the ignition timing, that's true. But it does have lines used to monitor ignition pulses from the coil. GD

Well - the ignition pulse codes are a problem.... The codes are specific to the vehicle type - 73 indicates a fualt on a Hitachi carbed, analog gauge cluster, california manual transmission vehicle. Being you are in Nevada that makes sense - your car was sold in CA and as such it's a feedback even though it's 4WD. (49-states 4WD's were not). The problem with that code is that it's a general fault code - there's about 20 pages of troublshooting that you have to go through to trace that code, and it will probably end up being a corroded connector, faulty splice, or the ECU itself (leaky caps, or something perhaps). It could take DAYS of troubleshooting to find it. IE: I wouldn't worry about that code. Fix your distributor first, and then if you still have that code.... yard that ECU out of the car and install a normal non-feedback Hitachi or a Weber. GD

It helped some in my hatch. Mostly it helps it go in easier - the grinding and poping out of gear is due to worn components so it can't cure that entirely. Mine will only grind if I push it into third too softly - I don't have the popping out of gear problem once it's in. With the scotty's it shifts smoother and easier so the problem has diminished from once every 4 or 5 up-shifts and nearly every down-shift to perhaps once every 20 or 30 shifts in general. Maybe once a week I miss 3rd gear. Also make sure your linkage is in good repair - the bushings are cheap from the dealer. Was about $15 for all of them on my 4 speed and it helps a lot to know where the gears are, and helps you to feel that you are getting it lined up properly. The bushings may be worse off due to previous owners/drivers forcing the linkage because of the grinding and popping. That bends things and destroy's the plastic/rubber bushings. But yes - with some scotty's, some linkage repair, and a bit of "getting-used-to", I think that you could get many more miles from your coupe tranny. It's not going to be new again, but it will be much improved and you'll be able to live with it. GD

At that temp you are getting into the range where you really should be running an oil cooler and synthetic oil. The spec Subaru thermostat's are 192..... 225 is a tad bit high for my liking but an oil cooler should bring that down a bit - and synthetic would be best. GD

I don't beleive that your code list is accurate. I will get back to you with a more accurate code detrmination when I have access to my manual's later today. GD

Yeah - the one you want is the bottom one. There could be corrosion keeping it from comming out as the base is cast iron. If you have a mechanic's mirror ($1 at the parts counter usually) that will help you see what you are up against better. I suppose I should update this post huh? GD

+1 for Loosen the PP bolts. I never use an alignment tool - they are cheap plastic and often don't work right causing your exact situation. Tighten the bolts only enough so that you can reach in and move the disc around but don't leave them so loose that the disc just flops in there by itself. It should move with a slight resistance and stay where you move it to. Eyeball the disc to the center and the tranny will slide right on - gauranteed. Then tighten the PP bolts to spec through the starter hole. GD

It should be noted that this procedure is critical as the bearing caps set the front ring/pinion gear lash and if set incorrectly you WILL be buying a new transmission. GD

'86 could be either EA81 or EA82. So do you have an EA81 hatchback or an EA82 3-door coupe? Either way an 86 with a D/R is going to be carbed.... so you have a feedback carb. Best option is to rip it off and install a Weber. Aside from that, we'll need more info for further diagnosis. GD

Not worth it - the parts alone would cost more than a good used tranny. When rebuilding automatic transmissions, always figure around $1000 to $1200 give or take. And don't attempt the job yourself - without proper tools and training you'll just waste money and tear out your hair. And it probably won't last long as long as a used one would. GD

You can use the XT6 pressure plate, and 83+ 4WD EA81 disc with an EA82 flywheel if you use a throwout bearing for a Nissan 720 truck. That would be the best option for a wheeler and you would already be setup for a 5 speed swap - just change the disc. GD

That's a common motor and pump bearings size -ZZ-C3 is motor bearing rated - higher quality. GD

I generally like the SKF's - the better ones are made in Austria. We also use a lot of F AG (without the space) bearings in the shop for the cheaper equipment - mostly made in korea, ect. But Korean is better than Chinease I would think. GD

The one under the car is always the clogged, forgotten, filter. It's actually the primary filter - the one under the hood is actually a vapor seperator that just also happens to have another filter in it. The first filter always gets 98% of the crap though, so the secondary under the hood is rarely bad. Cut it open and see. Your bad missing is probably feedback related being that it comes and goes like that. Bad coolant temp sensor perhaps. Get the codes. GD

Fuel filters generally do not cause hessitation issues from idle as that is when the float bowl is likely to be full as fuel demand is low. Plugged filters cause issues when demand is high. But yes - there are two. One under the car, and a vapor seperator/filter under the hood. Not likely to be your problem though. GD

You can't - on fuel injected engines the crankcase is part of the manifold vacuum system - that's how the PCV works, and the air circulateing through the whole system is metered by the MAF. It's a closed system and each of the little filters you added is a vacuum leak. A carburetor is what's known as a "demand feed" system. It's entirely dependant on manifold vacuum to "pull" in air and fuel. Fuel injection is not demand driven - the ECU introduces fuel based entirely on the air passing by the MAF sensor. Thus a closed system is needed or you are pulling air (past the rings, ect) from places other than through the MAF sensor. All those filters are supplying "unmetered" air to the engine and the ECU is cutting the fuel down based on an incorrect MAF signal - result being the engine dies from lack of fuel. The initial cold-start enrichment is the only thing keeping it running for the first few seconds. GD

That's a picture of an EA81, not an EA82. Beyond that you can just plug the lines - you don't need that valve. GD

Accelerator pumps are rarely bad on the Hitachi's. The problem is most likely a combination of several things - vacuum leaks, worn throttle shafts, ignition timeing, distributor vacuum advance, idle speed, idle mixture, ect. At 224k, many if not all of those are probably shot. The carb needs to be rebuilt, the primary shaft will need to be bushed and reemed, all vacuum leaks fixed, and then tuned after installation. You also have a feedback carb - it's got a computer, and several sensors. Read the codes from the computer under the kick panel and make the appropriate repairs. GD

Rather than pounding the bearings in, it's better to draw them in with a large peice of all-thread, some nuts, a section of iron pipe and some washers. Pounding on the races is bad - if you have to - do it evenly using a proper sized driver or section of pipe with a cap on the hammer end. The reccomended procedure is to use a press - but even then only a hand operated arbor press is all that's required. The fit is not all that tight. Heating the knuckle and putting the bearings on ice will make them go in very easily actually. Overall the job is quite easy - but it's also easy to screw up the bearings and have them not last very long. As mentioned replace the seals and DO NOT put too much grease inside the knuckle. In fact you should just order sealed bearings. If it's a 6207, then order a 6207-2RS for sealed, or a 6207-ZZ for sheilded. Sealed and sheilded will come pre-greased and offer another layer of protection over open bearings. And just go to a bearing house - ordering from an auto parts store has no advantages when it comes to bearings. GD

The drive gear inside the tranny is shot. There is probably a bad tooth on it somewhere and it's chewing the gov. gears up. Replace the tranny or do a 5 speed swap. GD

Dealership is the only source. GD

You sir, are clearly ignorant of...... nearly everything. I'll not waste my time with you. GD

I just replaced one of the original, factory u-joints on my 83 Hatch. It did not have a zerk but managed to last 223,000 miles. Granted one pin bearing was dust, but it got there without any zerking. I agree with you that a lot of the aftermarket stuff is junk - zerk or not. The seals are crap to begin with so any grease you add will probably just leach out. Lawnmowers are so poorly built that it doesn't surprise me there either. I'm merely saying that most of the *factory*, or OEM quality stuff is better left alone, and adding aftermarket parts with zerks will likely not last any longer than a quality OEM part with quality grease, quality seals, and no zerks at all. Yet another reason to shop at the dealer. Again and again I find that it's cheaper in the long run to just buy the right part to begin with. There are notable exceptions, but the rule is reinforced more times than it is proven wrong. Given the choice of cheap part without a zerk, and cheap part with a zerk I would go with the zerk style if for no other reason than when it does seize up I have a way to force something in there to keep it moving till I can replace it, ect. I just want the readers here to understand what they are doing, and think twice before wantonly adding grease to everything they see. Most of the time a good cleaning, check for play, and inspection of the seals is sufficient. Corrosion, dirt, expansion and contraction of filled grease cavities, ect are what cause the contamination in the first place. Make sure to wipe away any grease leaking from a seal as it can contract back into the assembly and carry with it contaminates that will severely shorten it's life. GD