GeneralDisorder

All years. 49 states (non-california) 4WD's had plain non-feedback. You want an 84 (any model), or an 85 through 89 EA81 Hatchback, or an 85 through 87 EA81 Brat for the proper carb. 82 and 83 would also work with slight modifications to the hose routings for the vacuum choke pull-off. The feedback and non-feedback carbs are THE SAME CARB. There's no phisical difference between them. The difference is in the jetting and how the metering ports are hooked up. GD

You may be right.... but I distinctly remember doing them on a 93 Loyale that a friend and I swapped from 3AT to 5MT. Perhaps somethine changed after the GL years. GD

You use a "cooler sandwich" that goes between the pump and the filter. Look on Summtracing.com - Flex-a-Lite makes one that will work. About $30. What you have to watch is the flow capacity of the cooler. The EA81T oil cooler was only designed to flow enough oil for the turbo itself. At 2500 RPM the EA81 pump puts out 3 times the amount of oil the cooler can handle.... Just a heads up. GD

Well - the way I read the FSM it shows it as an identifier, but also says (in the flow matrix) "the subsequent check is continued" - ie: you should continue troubleshooting straight through the lettered tests from where you stopped when it told you to check for codes (and you came up with a 73). Now that I have not seen stated anywhere in my FSM. You may be correct.... and in fact it does sound right maybe..... damn these FSM's are confusing! There's a lot of ways you can interpret it. If you run through all the detailed flow charts starting from the top we might be able to infer what the code is - but half the time the checks themselves are ambiguously worded so that you aren't even sure you passed or failed the check If he has to do that though..... that's a sign of bigger problems. If that wire isn't connected there's a bad spot in a harness somewhere. Bad juju. GD

Yeah - swapped a 4WD 3AT Loyale over to a 5 speed D/R last year and had to swap the plates. Pretty easy swap, but the bolts that hold the radius rod plates in place should be ran through a die and the holes in the body chased - they can be a pain. GD

You will have to swap the radius rod plates (and cross-member obviously) as the cross-members bolt up differently for auto's vs. manual's. Hhhmm - I'm not sure the input shaft seal on the tranny can be replaced without splitting the case apart. I will have to look closer but I'm pretty sure you can't get it out. If it's just weeping I wouldn't worry about it. I've never replaced em in any of the one's I've had one - many with hundreds of thousands of miles on them. GD

Sure - that's a Holley licensened Weber 32/36 DFV. You could make it work. You may have to be commited once you are done, but yeah - sort out enough of the emissions crap on it, rejet it, buy an adaptor plate, ect, ect. Call us in a year or two and tell us how the project is going. GD

Not really - you should buy an FSM. They show up on ebay from time to time or you can order one from the dealer. The EA81 manuals are about $80 new. GD

Just search - there's way too much information to cover it all in a single post. Search, read lots of posts, and then ask specific questions. GD

You can buy a factory service manual through the dealer - about $80. You can also sometimes find them on ebay. I seriously doubt your problem is related to the code. What you have is a seriously horrible carb setup. It's very complex, and if you really want to work with it (I don't sugest it) then you NEED an FSM. There's just no way around it. There are none scanned as far as I know. I would like to do it eventually, but I just never have the time. You don't have to buy a Weber to make it work though. Just get a non-feedback Hitachi and bolt it straight on. They are cheap - if you post in the wanted section someone will have one. Hell - I can get one from my local yard for $25 (+ shipping to you) if you like. Then you buy a rebuild kit, fix the spare carb up nice, and swap it out. When you do the swap you yank all the junk related to the feedback system out and you have a nice, simple carb. There is no silver bullet for this, and there's virtually no one here outside of myself that has worked, to any great extent, with the feedback systems. I *know* how they work, I own all the manuals, and I still won't run one. Take a look at my post count..... think perhaps I've been down this road eh? It's not hard to rebuild a carb if you are careful - you can do it, and it won't be terribly expensive. Heck - even Weber's aren't all that expensive if you get a used one cheap and rebuild it. I've done a complete Weber swap - Used carb, rebuild kit, rejeting, new choke, and adaptor plate for under $200. You'll throw away (as in trash) the same amount of money troubleshooting the feedback system. Replace the O2, the CTS, and buy a rebuild kit for the carb and you are halfway to the cost of doing a Weber swap already. There's far more money in replacing the parts of the feedback system than there is in a simple Weber without all the extra junk. GD

Any fuel pump that puts out 50 psi or so will work.... Have you tried changing the fuel filter? GD

OEM they are sealed with the three-bond equivelent of RTV. That's what I've always used. GD

It's been done - the problem with the SPFI manifold is that the base of the TBI isn't level. It has to be seriously modified to make anything bolt up to it. The best way to go if you are into that much fabrication is to just make two-peice adaptors to sit directly on the heads and run seperate carbs on each head. Drill press and a die grinder...... GD

Yes - highly reccomend his kit. I have one in my Brat behind an SPFI EA82 and it works great. You can use the EA81 flywheel (that's my preference), the EA82 disc, and the EA81 pressure plate. It will work either way. Also I have used plain unmodified EA82 flywheel's and as long as you eyeball the bolt holes to the center and lock them down with loctite blue (242 or 248) then you'll be fine. The EA82 flywheel has the advantage of being compatible with the XT6 pressure plate if you have it resurfaced to those specs. New disc anyway. I've reused many pressure plates without issue. That is the easiest way, yes. Jerry's kit comes with tranny mounts. I wouldn't worry about the seals unless it shows obvious signs of leakage. Pretty much except for linkage and wireing. You use the bone stock 5 speed shift linkage from an EA82 and the 4 speed 4WD lever with 1" added to the length of the actuator rod from the 4 speed. It bolts straight together and the body mount for the 5 speed linkage "tray" is already on your hatch - the EA81 2WD 5 speed used the same linkage mount so it already exists on the floorpan. Has to be a 4WD flywheel. The EA82 2WD flywheels are 200mm rather than 225mm. Same starter from 1980 (EA81's) through the EJ's of the late 90's anyway. Not sure about the really new stuff. EA81/EA82/ER27 are basically identical. GD

I put an XT6 alt in my hatch for a brief period, but the VR in it wanted to put out 15.5 volts so I need to rebuild it. If they have a tendancy for over-voltage like that as they age I would say get it rebuilt first. Other than that, the Amperage rating of the alt has absolutely nothing to do with it's compatibility with the components of the vehicle. Each component determines what Amperage it needs to run at. If the alt is rated at 60 amps then it can run a total of 60 amps worth of electrical devices - a normal radio might only be 5 amps, while a set of headlights might be 20 amps. An alternator with a larger rating means you can run higher draw accesories (bigger lights, stereo amps, ect), or more of them. It in no way affects the quality of the power or the voltage stability of the alternator. Being that you know soldering and electronics to some extent I would sugest you build a conversion harness such as I did to adapt the exsiting wireing to a normal analog GL cluster. The cool thing about doing this is that you can reverse the install at any time and put the digi back in. The cluster's fit exactly the same so you can swap them at will. As for the rear end sagging - I think the best way to rectify that would be to install a 4WD torsion bar assembly that has the height adjustment on it. It should bolt right in IIRC. Just use the 2WD control arms. You might have to get 4WD rear shocks but I think they are the same. Actually would be a really easy install and woudl give you the ability to crank up the suspension in the back if you have a heavy load. GD

At least you seem to have an eye for detail. Can't say I would have used that color, but it does look like you put some effort into it. For plastic, I like the Krylon Fusion stuff - I painted the "4WD" red lettering on my Brat mud flaps like 3 years ago and it's still going strong. Amazing stuff. It has a flexing agent in it that gives it a rubberyness so it doesn't crack when applied to plastics. Awesome stuff. Now rip up that ugly carpet and put down some shag! GD

You mean loosen the pulley bolt? Thread some rope into the #1 spark plug hole with the engine at BDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). Then rotate the engine counter clockwise till it stops. Then remove the bolt. After you get the bolt off the pulley comes off then the sprockets slip off - they aren't pressed on or anything. GD

EVERYTHING. Strip it to a bare shell. Remove everything that can be removed then invest $25 in sawzall blades and cut the body up for scrap metal. This both avoids having a shell laying around, and avoids paying the scrapman to take it away (and most want it rolling) - just load up the bits and get your money back on the blades + a half-rack of brew for your time at the metal recyclers. And you can stock ALL the parts for spares - never know when you'll need a rear diff, or a front knuckle, or a brake master cylinder... ect. The stuff is too expensive to just throw away if you can help it. GD

It's toast - once the front diff is sloppy like that it's done. Only a matter of time before you strip the pinion. Scotty's is no good for diffs - in fact it is worse for diffs than plain gear oil. It's somewhere between a gear oil and a manual transmission lube - less sulfer than a gear oil, better for syncro's, but not for diffs. On a good transmission it's not a big issue - even if you do shorten it's life somewhat it's a decent trade for fast, smooth shifting. And at $40 a pop to fill a tranny.... no good if it's leaking as much as you say. Fill it with sawdust and drive it till you can afford a 5 speed GD

I think he means he has a push-button 5 speed - that's a whole different ball of kittens if that's what you have. There's some vacuum stuff that you'll need to swap in order to get that stuff working - as well as wireing the switch. And the 3AT wireing won't help you there. GD

Vents in the hood arn't going to do anything for an EA81. It already has plenty of airflow on the underside. If (like a Honda, ect) the engine were transverse, and slammed up against the radiator.... you might have a theory. But beleive me there is no "vacuum" created in the EA81 engine bay. If you want cooling the recipe is simple: New radiator. New thermostat (OEM). New fan thermoswitch. Add EA81 A/C fan. Add EA81T oil cooler. Add Autometer coolant temp gauge (oil pressure and voltage while you are at it). And address the typical voltage supply issues to the stock cluster so all your gauges are reading correctly. GD

Why? I've never seen or heard of one failing.... GD

Trace the power, and test the fan. Run a jumper to the fan connector and see if it runs, then pull the thermo-sensor and see if it's contacts close when you heat it (heat gun or torch). Best to use a heat gun and a k-type thermocouple to run it's temp up and monitor it to check it's closing temp. Check for power at the fuse and see if the fuse is good.... ect. It's a very basic circuit. Sure - something is loose. Everyone here with a lift has had that happen. Could be anything related to the lift or other repairs that have been done. Last time I had that problem it was the bolts that connect the leading rod to the passenger front control arm. Accelerating and stopping both resulted in "chunk"/"pop" sounds. GD

Yes. It will repeat them till the power is turned off. GD

No - some have spacers under only one head, and some have them under both. There are two or three styles depending on year/number of ASV's. The runners from the heads will be longer or shorter to compensate for the differences. GD