GeneralDisorder

Just make SURE there is no air in the system - air has the capability to heat and expand more rapidly than water/coolant, and air bubbles can easily cause overheating with the EA82's. But most likely you are wise to do the HG's. Get the Fel-Pro's and get the rest of the gaskets from the dealer. GD

Coolant, as all fluids, will expand as it heats. It does so pretty slowly, but yes it will overflow if you let it heat up long enough. It doesn't "shoot" out though - it just runs over the top of the filler neck and down the sides. Irregardless, no substantial heating occurs in the first minute or two of operation so what the coolant does as it reaches operating temp has no bearing on Major Lazy's original question - the problem being experienced here is no doubt a compression leak to the cooling system. GD

DSM is Diamond Star Motors. It's a US built Mitsubishi based product. GD

The ignition connector is pink, has 5 conductors, and a 6 pin plug. One of the corner pins is not occupied on EA81's (it's the hot-in-start pin as used on SPFI EA82's for the ECU start signal). So I'm not sure what you have there, but it certainly is not an ignition switch plug. Perhaps if you elaborate on the sitation that led you to this assumption and why not having it connected is a problem I could be of more assistance? GD

You are absolutely VERY wrong in that assumption. Any opening to the crankcase is a vacuum leak. It's a sealed system for exactly that reason. On a carb it wouldn't matter.... as it relates to vacuum leaks - proper blow-by gas removal is another subject entirely. And no - I'm not refering to environmental concerns. You need to replace the missing cap, get a new rubber seal and properly adjust the tabs so it doesn't leak. Check the dip-stick o-ring as well, and make sure the PCV and all lines are clean. GD

DSM's are junk. The ECU's last 5 years at most due to leaky caps, the engine's are prone to a host of failures, and the overal quality of the cars was very poor. They sold on looks and performance alone - how many older Mitsi's are still on the road? When was the last time you saw any 80's one's around? Oh yeah - they crushed them all. And I hate everything that's transverse. It's a general policy of mine. You'll find lots of folks like me around here. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt, ect. GD

I'm sorry. That's a horrible, horrible vehicle. GD

As I said - you do not understand enough about the system. For example - you cannot allow blow-by gasses from the crankcase to "just escape". The air has already been metered by the MAF and must be recirculated to the intake or your mixture will be thrown off. The entire crankcase is part of the manifold vacuum system of the SPFI. If you just let it out via a breather you are creating a very, very large vacuum leak - poor idle quality, poor economy, ect. That's actually one of those rather obscure items that people often overlook - the o-ring around the oil dip-stick can actually be a vacuum leak if it's hard or missing, ect. You cannot just apply knowledge of carbs to an FI system. There are fundamental differences in their theory of operation. And I'm not asking you to "buy" anything. I'm TELLING you how things are. I KNOW what I'm talking about. Not only have I installed many SPFI setups on previously carbed engines, but I've also built fuel injection systems from scratch with MegaSquirt and other aftermarket systems. GD

You shouldn't be plugging vacuum lines unless you know what they do. Checking for leaks involves spraying something flammable (brake cleaner, carb cleaner - any fast evaporating degreaser really) aroung the engine bay at various "suspect" areas and listening to the sound of the engine. A smoothing of the idle or an increase in the idle speed indicates a leak of some kind. Spray some down the throat of the MAF (avoiding the hot/sensor wires) and listen to the change in pitch - that will give you an idea of what you are looking for. Beyond that, you should run a D-Check of the SPFI. It has the capability to self-diagnose many simple sensor problems. Do a search for D-Check or read the partial FSM linked on my SPFI conversion page for a full description: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

There's nearly no emissions equipment on the SPFI. What exactly would you like to get rid of? There's the passive evap system but removing that would only get rid of a single solenoid (you would have to replace it with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor), the charcoal canister, and leave you with a fuel smell as there would be nothing to trap fuel vapor from the tank on hot days. The whole point of the SPFI is that it doesn't *need* extra emissions gear. It's ECU and sensors regulate fuel and timing so as not to require any "help" from extra junk. That's why they are much, much simpler than carbs of similar vintage. Not to mention more economical, and better driveability. What you need, more than anything, is to LEARN how the system works, and what that "mess" does. Then you won't feel so lost and angry at that late-80's wonder of a fuel system you have. You'll be happy that it has nothing except what it needs to work - there's no extra stuff as on newer cars for the smog-testing nazi's, and there's no extra stuff as on older cars that needed it to perform at a decent level. It's just plain, simple, fuel injection without anything you "don't need". GD

Sounds like a classic vacuum leak. Check for leaks first. GD

What car? Model, year, ect are required for anyone here to help you. GD

That's a compression leak into your cooling system. Bad head gasket(s) or cracked head(s). Coolant only "shoots" out of the radiator cap when it's put under pressure. Otherwise it sits there and does nothing at all (especially without the water pump turning). Convection will slowely circulate it to some extent, by a gyser out the cap with the engine cold is a sure sign of the cooling system being pressurized by compression gasses. Since you also mention some overheating, you should STOP driving it immediately. You risk blowing radiator or heater core hoses, blowing the tanks off the radiator, or blowing out the heater core (not fun to replace). The cooling system was only designed to handle 13 psi, and the stuff is probably only pressure tested durring manufacturing to 25 psi or so. The cylinder compression gasses from just one cylinder can be upwards of 200 psi or more. I just replaced the heater core in my 91 SS for this same reason. The last owner (that drove it) didn't stop driving and all the tubes in the core split right at the junction to the bottom tank. Not pretty, and not cheap or simple to fix - removal of the entire dash is required. How high was the gyser? I've seen upwards of 4 or 5 feet of coolant spray from an engine with multiple, completely blown-out cylinders. Anyway - sorry for the bad news. And just so you know, turbo's do not circulate coolant at all. They have a flow through system and rely on the water pump to circulate coolant through them. GD

The SPFI engine has the wrong cams and the wrong compression for a carb setup. The timing will have to be retarded using the carb distributor. You'll lose performance and fuel economy due to the decrease in max advance. Pinging will be your new best friend. Carb distributors have a tendancy to wear out bushing and vacuum advance cans so it would be wise to have it rebuilt and recurved at the same time to get back some of the top-end advance. The fuel pump will have to be changed, additionally the ground to the fuel pump relay will have to be rerouted around the ECU, and a revolution sensor (fuel pump control unit) installed to safely operate the pump. A carb filter will have to be installed before the fuel pump to prevent damage to the pump as the SPFI has a high-pressure filter in the engine bay. The HP filter will have to be removed and routed around. The wiring for the carb ignition coil will have to be added, as well as a circuit for the choke. Carb manifold obviously. Carb and adaptor plate if you use a Weber. All-in-all - not worth it. Expensive proposition, poor performance, and the SPFI is vastly superior in every catagory. It's simple, rugged, cheap and easy to repair. That's why many of us who have tried all the various options multiple times end up converting carb vehicles to SPFI rather than the other way around. GD

No. In short the quench design of the heads could not withstand it. Detonation city. 9.0:1 would be alright - 9.5:1.... maybe 10:1 using the EA82 SPFI would likely be alright as the fuel injection can handle the ignition timeing better to allow it. Anything over about 9 would require computer fuel injection to control the ignition timing or you would have to retard it so far it would be worthless to bother. Massive compression without the ability to advance the timing is worse than lower compression. GD

These are a good reason to own a torch set. Bit of heat to the bracket - little bit of Yeild (my choice) and they will impact right out of there. GD

Use blue locktite (242, or 248 stick) next time Use a torch to take it apart. You won't hurt the spring steel as long as you direct the torch at the bolt heads, and don't quench the thing with water while it's hot. If it was ultra-critical that it didn't get hot, it wouldn't even be near a friction surface like the clutch anyway. Just don't dump ice-water on it. The surrounding material will not get to 600 degrees - just the bolt. The pressure plate will disperse what heat it takes like a sink. Mild steel turns a bright purple color around 570 degree's. Do a search online for a steel color/temp chart. GD

That's comparitively rare on stock turbo's with stock boost levels. The thing would have to be RED hot when you shut it off (not impossible), and there would have to be almost no coolant flow through it. The coolant will continue to circulate via convection and prevent the oil passages from getting hot enough to cook the oil. Although if, by some circumstances, you do cook the oil inside the turbo - there is little that can be done to fix them. First mod I would do is an intercooler, oil cooler, larger radiator (more capacity, more cooling surface), and added cooling fan capacity. From there you need an array of gauges to make ANY modifications toward higher power output - Exhaust gas temp, wideband air/fuel, boost, coolant temp, oil temp - AT A MINIMUM. Cylinder head temp, oil pressure, and vacuum (often integrated with boost) are strongly reccomended for proper tuning. A Lean mixture under boost will destroy an engine in SECONDS. THE biggest problem folks run into with turbo's is lack of cooling. The second biggest is lack of fueling. Turbo's run rich and hot. The number one mistake people make is spending their money on "go fast" parts without the neccesary knowledge or insturmentation to safely implement them. That's why there's so few "reliable" modded turbo's out there. There's at least $1,000 worth of supporting mods that are absolutely neccesary before you gain even 1 HP. GD

You need the waste gate in almost all applications as it prevents the turbo from running too fast. It can overheat and cook the oil. Almost all Subaru turbo's run bushings rather than bearings and the turbo will be TRASH if you overheat it and coke the oil. GD

Waste of time. GD

10 minutes is about how long it takes for the choke to pull off completely. Sounds like you have a severe vacuum leak or a badly adjusted idle speed/mixture. A clogged idle circuit in the carb would do it as well. Hitachi's are a pain in the rump roast. Even for us that know them well. GD

Cable is likely broken. GD

Vacuum leaks most likely. Some of them may require a carb rebuild. The throttle base shafts are probably worn and will need bushing. Spray around with carb cleaner till you encounter a spot that causes an increase or a steadying of the idle - there will be a leak near there. GD

That's pretty typical of the rear auto-adjusting drums. When they go they often go with style. GD

I've only been threatened with this. Been stopped over a dozen times - many of them on the same car - NEVER once have I been written for the windsheild being cracked. If you aren't an rump roast to the cop, and you tell them you intend to fix it as soon as you have the money they won't write you. The ticket is too small, too easy to avoid paying (show a receipt [even if you make it in excel yourself ] and it's dropped), and their reason for stopping you was to see if they could find something BIG to ticket you for - uninsured, suspended license, ect. They would rather you NOT fix it so they have a reason to pull you over any time they choose. If you keep your paperwork in order, drive within the laws, and treat the cops with respect you'll be fine never fixing it. Even if you get stopped by the same cop and he writes you for it being cracked you make up a receipt in excel and get the ticket dropped. If the same cop pulls you over a third time after you supposedly fixed it - well you work next to a gravel factory and $hit happens - they can't/won't bother to disprove you - it's not worth their time. GD