GeneralDisorder

No - you could write one though I've owned several dozen EA series Subaru's - most of them were Hitachi carbed. Two were feedback - one EA81, and one EA82. For a time I managed to get the EA81 version working fairly well but ripped the whole thing out when I lifted the car and put on a Weber for off-road. That was also my first Subaru back in '98 and I wasn't knowledgable about the system nor had I rebuilt any Hitachi's yet. The EA82 system I wound up with was just an accident - $100 beater that fell in my lap and became my DD. I figured the system would be similar to the EA81 system.... I was pretty wrong of course. The EA82 system is more "evolved" than the primitive EA81 system was. It's got more sensors, more complexity, and the EA82 version of the Hitachi it's hooked to is a demon-child carb. It's actually worse than the EA81 Hitachi in several ways - suffice to say that even though it's bigger and should flow better - I have yet to drive a stock carbed EA82 that was as fast as my stock carbed EA81 despite it having 10 less HP. My advice is this: 1. Buy a used non-feedback EA82 Hitachi from the junk yard - make sure it's got the same transmission type as your's for jetting purposes. While you are there pull every single electric choke housing and find the one with the least spring hook wear. The hooks always wear completely through on the EA82 Hitachi and fall off leaving the choke non-functioning. 2. Buy a rebuild kit. www.thepartsbin.com has the one's I use but a local shop we have here gets them for me for about $20 3. Rebuild your carb using the jets from the junkyard carb, or rebuild the junkyard carb - your choice depending on the condition of each. Don't lose the accelerator pump check ball - it's really tiny, plastic, and will fall out when you tip the carb upside down. 4. Plug the metering ports with vacuum caps - just follow the hoses from the duty solenoids to the appropriate ports on the carb - it's the one's that aren't obviously something else like a fuel supply/return, vent line, or ported vacuum port ect. 10 is about where I put all mine. 12 is a bit high - listen for ping. Also you'll want to readjust your idle speed and mixure if you change your base timing. GD

I don't like them cause the veiwing area is small, and they are expensive. I find a large viewing area and a price of $25 to be more suitible. To each his own though. And if you do a LOT of welding they can still burn you - there is a small fraction of a second before they "go dark" where some UV gets through. Which brings up another good point - don't weld in a t-shirt or shorts for very long or you'll end up with a wicked sun-burn from the UV. GD

No.... no they won't. The smog tests are only allowed to be performed after warm-up. Many emissions devices have to be off durring cold running, and the fuel system will be in open-loop operation. The O2 sensor is ignored and standard fuel/ignition maps are used. The engine will perform WAY outside the testing limits. That's is the nature of internal combustion engines in automotive applications. Emissions tests are always administered when warm - they have to be. Your statement above indicates you still have an incomplete understand of the situation here. GD

The problem is that you are at a different level of mechanical education than "us" (Gloyale, and Myself at least). You think that "as it should" means it must function as some all-knowning Subaru engineer thought it should function two decades ago when it was designed. You haven't yet reached the level where you can look at those engineer's ideas - understand them - and think of NEW ways for those same ideas to still function. When I hear you say (type) something like "as it should" I immediately think "as it should according to whom?". There's a big difference between looking at it your way, and looking at it my way. What you need to understand is that there are a million and one ways to get to the same result, and given 100 engineers you'll get 100 different implementations of the same system. Understanding the GOAL is more important than the details of the implementation. Understand the goal, forget about how it was done by those guys in Japan in the 80's, and get there using your own abilities. Your mind isn't open to the possibility that there is another way. You continue to smack your head against a code 34 wall and wonder why it hurts.... open your mind to another solution. Nail a pillow to the wall - so it wasn't there when the wall was built - does that make it any less useful? Think outside the box man. GD

Two belts is not for insurance - if one breaks the chances are good that it will slip under the good belt and either snap it as well, or pop it off the pulley. It was designed with two belts entirely based on power transfer needs. These are type "A" classical industrial V belts. Individually they have a power transfer of around 2 to 3 HP at around 1000 RPM. A single belt is not sufficient to drive the AC compressor, Power steering pump, and Alternator according to standard v-belt power transfer guidelines. Now in reality, you can run with a single belt all day long and twice on Sunday's because they are over-engineered, and belt technology has progressed since 1985 just a wee bit. But the REASON for the twin belts is purely engineering - there is nothing about redundancy here. If you replace the belts at the reccomended intervals you should never need any redundancy, and besides the only way to truely accomplish that (as I said above) would be to run belt gaurds that prevented broken belts from being sucked into the other pully grooves. I build large compressors at work and am often faced with the questions of how many, how big, how long, and what type of V belt's I will need when building a package - it depends on the size motor and pump I'm running, what RPM I want the pump to turn, the HP and RPM of the motor, ect, ect. GD

And I told you EXACTLY how to do that. You are either not listening, or you don't understand how these two systems work. The EGR code can be eliminated with the resistor, and the EGR can still be enabled by connecting it directly to it's vacuum source. The solenoid only DISABLES the EGR durring warm up - it actually functions as a "de-emissioning" device by turning off the EGR till the engine warms. Removeing the solenoid and plumbing the EGR directly does not bypass any emissions equipment whatsoever. The Purge solenoid functions to pull the evap gasses from the charcoal canistor into the intake. It's a purely passive system, and cannot be tested by the "police". It does not affect tail-pipe emissions except to potentially increase them slightly as evap gasses would enrich the mixture. Installing resistors and leaving the "dead" solenoids in place will be impossible for them to detect in any way, and will eliminate your code, and your CEL, which would automatically fail you..... I don't see a problem here besides your lack of understanding. GD

The carb is far from being the biggest problem with the feedback's. It's the same carb as the non-feedback's but with different jetting. In fact you can take a non-feedback, install the feedback jets and have the same thing - or the other way around. If you have a good feedback, block the metering ports off and install the non-feedback jets and air-bleeds - no more feedback and consistent, good mileage without the expensive, troublesome feedback systems. Why anyone would try to fix the feedback system is really beyond me - other than a poor understanding in general of the difference and how easy it is to switch it over. I've rebuilt plenty of Hitachi's - they aren't terribly difficult once you have done a few. There's no problem with that. The problem is the feedback system itself - which has nothing to do with the carb other than 3 vacuum lines where it connects to the metering ports on it. The metering ports are on all the Hitachi's and are connected variously through vacuum valves and thermo-vacuum valves on the non-feedback installations. If the system applies the incorrect amount of feedback air to the metering ports the mileage or power will be horrible. The best way to deal with it is to just remove the feedback system and jet the carb so it doesn't need it. GD

Hhhhmmm - I hadn't thought of it that way. You are right. I think a lot of us have fallen into that habit as more times than not threads are ressurected accidentally or by the uninitiated trying to answer someone's question from 4 years ago. It then blows up into more people answering the OP's question - wasting their time and the boards bandwidth answering questions for people that will never return for their answers. In this case his question was related, so that's actually a good reason to bring it back. It will still likely result in a bunch of replies answering the OP's question, but such is the way of a forum I suppose. GD

You blew the fuse that supplies power to the fuel pump relay. It's on the same circuit as the radio on some models. GD

Same size I believe - it's the control arm part that's different. This thread is ancient BTW. GD

Here's my write up on it. It's geared toward EA81's - EA82's such as yours are easier, but a lot of the same stuff applies. There's a link at the bottom to a write up by Snowman that was specific to EA82's as well as a partial FSM showing the engine section and specific information on the SPFI system. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Again - I commend you for you enthusiasm, but if you intend to do something like this yourself, you need to start with a dozen smaller projects and work your way up. Step 1 - get a welder. Get a DECENT welder. A MIG setup with 75/25 gas and .030" wire. Do yourself a big favor and get a 230v machine and install a circuit for it. Get a #9 darkness helment with a large veiwing area - don't bother with the fancy auto-darkening stuff. Step 2 - Practice welding. Start with scraps. Step 3 - Build yourself a welding cart for the machine and the gas bottle. You'll need one anyway and it's a great functional first project. Step 4 - Do many, many more projects. Learn about how metal pulls when it's welded, how to flow your welds properly, and how to run a decent looking bead on different types/thicknesses of material. Steps 1 through 4 will take about 10 years. So stash the Subaru in a safe place for later. GD

Irregarldless, it's probably still not "clogged". You can punch it out and drive on. Most models had only a single cat in the y-pipe anyway. Unfortunately, you have a very difficult situation as I feared from your first post. You have a feedback, computer controlled carb. It's a very complex system - one that is difficult to work with based as much on it's complexity as it's age, and obscurity. It does have some self-diagnostic abilities. There is a computer under your dash on the drivers side. Remove the kick panel and LEAVE IT OFF. The computer is primitive, and does not store codes. When the indicator light on the dash comes on (if it hasn't been disabled) the ECU will flash codes in a standard long-short format. This will help you diagnose the feedback system itself. Most likely, a major cause of your poor mileage is BOTH the feedback system, and the carb itself. You are going to need to rebuild the carb as the top-plate gasket will be shot along with a lot of the rubber bits. It will need cleaning and reassembly to function properly again. You will also need to learn a LOT about the feedback system to repair it and acheive it's rated 28 to 30 MPG. There's almost no one outside of myself and a few others on this board that know anything at all about them - Dealerships are no help, and generic auto shops will do more harm than good in all likelyhood. Frankly your best bet is to yard that carb off and install a non-feedback Hitachi, or re-jet the feedback to the specifications of a non-feedback. Either choice is pretty cheap. You could also install a Weber 32/36 DGV with an adaptor plate, or you could retrofit the later throttle body injection. Both are a bit more work - the TBI (SPFI in Subaru land) being the most work, but also the larges return - best mileage and best drivability. GD

Certainly, but the possibility of that happening can be mitigated almost to a non-concern with proper research into your model selection, and careful inspection of any potential purchase. Gen 1 (90 to 94) Legacy's are without a doubt one of the most reliable vehicles you can find for under $1000. They are just unstoppable. Far, far more reliable than the EA82, and just about as cheap anymore. GD

Double Post!

Ok - lets get some things straight. A lot of what has been posted could be applicable or not depending on the information you give. 1. Do you have a Carb, or Fuel injection? Carbs will have a large, black, kidney bean shaped air cleaner housing on the top of the engine. Fuel injection will have a shop-vac looking hose on the top. Which one do you have? 2. We have already established that you have an O2 sensor. This is VERY important to either of the systems. I'll go into more detail when I know what you have. 3. This whole "bad cat" thing is speculation at best. They rarely fail, and when they do they usually aren't plugged. It's not common so it shouldn't be your first concern. 4. Unless the car is over or under heating, don't touch the thermostat. If it's running ok, that's something you should deal with later. Fix the pressing problems like your mileage issues. Deal with the thermostat when you have those fixed, or if it becomes a problem. We NEED to know more about your vehicle. Pictures of your engine bay would be great. I have a feeling you have a feedback carburetor model by the terrible mileage, disconnected O2, and the model year/transmission type you have. But pics would be best if you are totally clueless from my description. GD

One is for EA81's, and one is for EA82's. You want the "wagon, sedan, or 3-door coupe" version. Not the "Hatchback, Brat" version. Which should be the only listings availible for an 86. But with 260k on it - do you really want to dump any cash into it? That's a butt-load of miles for an 86. Chances are just about everything that is a wear item on that car is totally shot - bearings, bushings, shocks, carb, ect. And the EA82's run for a long time, but 300k is getting close to the limits. There's just not a lot of realistic life left in that chassis is all I'm saying. If you love the car that's one thing - but if not then you really should be looking for something newer and more reliable unless you enjoy wrenching every weekend like me and a few others. Older EA's are not right for most people. Especially not with Gen 1 Legacy's so cheap anymore. GD

That is photo-shop job, and a quick, or poor one at that. It would be VERY difficult to do something like that, and without many thousands of $$ to pay someone who can weld properly, this isn't something you are going to make happen unless you do it yourself. For example - where's the front of the engine going to go? The radiator? How about the fuel tank? Hard lines for tank venting, fuel supply and brakes? Wireing? A "tiny" arc welder is going to be worse than pop-riveting it together. It's a highly skilled welder than can do sheet metal with stick. You need a small MIG with gas or better a MIG/TIG setup with gas, a little instruction, and a LOT of practice. Trust me. It's not just sticking metal together - things change shape and size when they are heated to welding temperature - there's a lot of technique involved in jigging and tacking thing properly so you don't end up with a car that crabwalks down the road. The project you are contemplating is GIGANTIC. You probably won't believe me till you have a pile of peices that you can't put back together again. The uni-body construction makes a job like this very difficult. The whole thing will have to be carefully reinforced to prevent it from just tearing apart. I sugest you go buy the car you want. Building one such as in that fantasy image posted above is ridiculously complicated and annoying. Especially as a first venture into fabrication. If you try this as a learning experience, you'll ultimately have NO car. BTW - an EA82 is worth about $50 in raw scrap steel. I've cut a few up and hauled them off. GD

What makes you think that? I'll lay odds you haven't bled all the air from the system. It's overheating and you don't know why so you assume since the pump is new you must need a radiator right? You need to burp the air from it. GD

You need an EA82 4WD clutch kit. You don't need to worry about spline counts, ect if you order from a decent retailer or the dealer. All the EA82 5 speed 4WD's use the same clutch. The job is easy and requires only basic hand tools and the will to get the job done. Remove the radiator, disconnect the exhaust, engine mounts, and all the other lines/accesories attaching the engine then pull it up and forward into where the radiator was. You don't need a hoist as pulling the engine out, or the tranny out is not neccesary. Adjust the cable first, but it's likely not the cable as they don't usually get tighter on their own. GD

If it's done right, either one will *work*. MPFI is superior. Driveability, economy, off-angle running, maintenance, reliability, self-diagnostics, ect. That's why everyone dumped carbs at the end of the 80's. Once you take a carb to the level's neccesary to compete with even throttle body injection it's far too complex and fragile to be of any use. It just makes more sense to tell the fuel what you want it to do rather than trying to trick the engine vacuum into doing it for you. GD

I don't see a problem with running one for a 350. Especially a Delco unit. The problem one's are the aftermarket units made specifically for Subaru engines. And also cheap aftermarket units that have a high failure rate. Whatever you use, make sure it's for at least as large of a cooling system as you have, and that it's a QUALITY unit. Look it over carefully. I personally run the Subaru OEM thermostats - for several reasons: 1. Built like tanks. 2. Comes with a WAY better gasket. 3. Inexpensive ($13). 4. Unquestionably the right part. 5. I've never had one fail. GD

What's that? The Pollok rim welding method? Cut out the center and weld it to a proper 15" rim if you want to do it right. Still would be a major b1tch to get the center to line up properly. You would need a serious jig to make it not pull all over the place when you welded it. It's far, far easier to just get some toyota or mazda steel rims, punch out two new holes, and fill-weld the two you don't need. No cutting, jigging, or other tom-foolery required. Grind the welds, sand blast, and have them powder coated. No one is the wiser. GD

Yep - that's what I was talking about. Very dangerous to hardcore trail ride them. I suppose if you lived somewhere that didn't get inclimate weather and all you did was drive on pavement they would be ok, but then why own an older Subaru at all if that the case? GD

They aren't actually that skinny - it's the thickness of the metal that's the problem. They are like 5.5" wide. But yes - most tire shops won't touch them. GD