GeneralDisorder

At least you seem to have an eye for detail. Can't say I would have used that color, but it does look like you put some effort into it. For plastic, I like the Krylon Fusion stuff - I painted the "4WD" red lettering on my Brat mud flaps like 3 years ago and it's still going strong. Amazing stuff. It has a flexing agent in it that gives it a rubberyness so it doesn't crack when applied to plastics. Awesome stuff. Now rip up that ugly carpet and put down some shag! GD

You mean loosen the pulley bolt? Thread some rope into the #1 spark plug hole with the engine at BDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). Then rotate the engine counter clockwise till it stops. Then remove the bolt. After you get the bolt off the pulley comes off then the sprockets slip off - they aren't pressed on or anything. GD

EVERYTHING. Strip it to a bare shell. Remove everything that can be removed then invest $25 in sawzall blades and cut the body up for scrap metal. This both avoids having a shell laying around, and avoids paying the scrapman to take it away (and most want it rolling) - just load up the bits and get your money back on the blades + a half-rack of brew for your time at the metal recyclers. And you can stock ALL the parts for spares - never know when you'll need a rear diff, or a front knuckle, or a brake master cylinder... ect. The stuff is too expensive to just throw away if you can help it. GD

It's toast - once the front diff is sloppy like that it's done. Only a matter of time before you strip the pinion. Scotty's is no good for diffs - in fact it is worse for diffs than plain gear oil. It's somewhere between a gear oil and a manual transmission lube - less sulfer than a gear oil, better for syncro's, but not for diffs. On a good transmission it's not a big issue - even if you do shorten it's life somewhat it's a decent trade for fast, smooth shifting. And at $40 a pop to fill a tranny.... no good if it's leaking as much as you say. Fill it with sawdust and drive it till you can afford a 5 speed GD

I think he means he has a push-button 5 speed - that's a whole different ball of kittens if that's what you have. There's some vacuum stuff that you'll need to swap in order to get that stuff working - as well as wireing the switch. And the 3AT wireing won't help you there. GD

Vents in the hood arn't going to do anything for an EA81. It already has plenty of airflow on the underside. If (like a Honda, ect) the engine were transverse, and slammed up against the radiator.... you might have a theory. But beleive me there is no "vacuum" created in the EA81 engine bay. If you want cooling the recipe is simple: New radiator. New thermostat (OEM). New fan thermoswitch. Add EA81 A/C fan. Add EA81T oil cooler. Add Autometer coolant temp gauge (oil pressure and voltage while you are at it). And address the typical voltage supply issues to the stock cluster so all your gauges are reading correctly. GD

Why? I've never seen or heard of one failing.... GD

Trace the power, and test the fan. Run a jumper to the fan connector and see if it runs, then pull the thermo-sensor and see if it's contacts close when you heat it (heat gun or torch). Best to use a heat gun and a k-type thermocouple to run it's temp up and monitor it to check it's closing temp. Check for power at the fuse and see if the fuse is good.... ect. It's a very basic circuit. Sure - something is loose. Everyone here with a lift has had that happen. Could be anything related to the lift or other repairs that have been done. Last time I had that problem it was the bolts that connect the leading rod to the passenger front control arm. Accelerating and stopping both resulted in "chunk"/"pop" sounds. GD

Yes. It will repeat them till the power is turned off. GD

No - some have spacers under only one head, and some have them under both. There are two or three styles depending on year/number of ASV's. The runners from the heads will be longer or shorter to compensate for the differences. GD

No - that's probably not your problem. It's carb and carb tuning related. Perhaps with a dash of ignition timing thrown in. The Haynes is wrong - that's an "ignition pulse" code. It's a code specific to the model - indicating you have an automatic transmission, an analog gauge cluster, and a Hitachi carb (feedback obviously). Beyond that, diagnosing it requires about 20 pages of troubleshooting diagrams from the FSM. It could be any number of things - probably a corroded connector somewhere, or a bad splice in the harness. Truely, without a factory service manual, your options are limited - either rip it off an install a non-feedback Hitachi (or rejet your's to non-feedback spec), or rip it off and install a Weber. You'll have no end of trouble with the feedback, and as long as it's throwing a code like that you'll get extremely poor mileage as it can't properly control the air metering ports on that carb. It will default to VERY rich. 16 to 20 MPG if you are lucky. That's typical of a worn/mis-tuned carb. Also the distributor vac advance may be bad, or the timing may be off. Reset the timing, check the vac advance for proper operation, clean/rebuild the carb, set the idle speed and mixture. Yep - carbs are a pain like that sometimes. It's a learning curve. Look down the carb throat while you turn the throttle if you want to know if the accelrator pump is working. It probably is - they don't usually fail. And I doubt a carb rebuild kit alone will entirely solve the problem. It may help, but it's not a cure-all. There's too many other factors. If they are original with high mileage, or have ever been replaced with aftermarket then yes - they are prone to leaking coolant. Use only OEM gaskets, chase the threads and the bolts, use a bit of anti-seize, and torque to 12 ft/lbs only. Could be - replace with a genuine OEM Hitachi or ND coil to match your distributor. Aftermarket coils are cheap and have been known to fail or cause the ignition module to fail. Hope you figure it out. GD

Engine turning = oil pump turning. I don't see a huge problem with that frankly - regardless of how the engine is turned (burning fuel, or mechanically) as long as it maintains a high enough RPM to get the oil pressure up it should be fine. Freeway speed in 2nd gear would be a pretty high RMP though..... perhaps the damage was from sustained high-RPM. Seems like it wouldn't hurt it too much though as there's no load from the cylinders fireing. An interesting tear-down for sure either way. GD

Actually there are two duty-control solenoids that modify airflow to three metering ports on the carb. The ECU has enough control through these to cause the engine to die at an idle or to run very badly if the O2 or CTS have gone south. The ECU cannot directly modify the ignition timing, that's true. But it does have lines used to monitor ignition pulses from the coil. GD

Well - the ignition pulse codes are a problem.... The codes are specific to the vehicle type - 73 indicates a fualt on a Hitachi carbed, analog gauge cluster, california manual transmission vehicle. Being you are in Nevada that makes sense - your car was sold in CA and as such it's a feedback even though it's 4WD. (49-states 4WD's were not). The problem with that code is that it's a general fault code - there's about 20 pages of troublshooting that you have to go through to trace that code, and it will probably end up being a corroded connector, faulty splice, or the ECU itself (leaky caps, or something perhaps). It could take DAYS of troubleshooting to find it. IE: I wouldn't worry about that code. Fix your distributor first, and then if you still have that code.... yard that ECU out of the car and install a normal non-feedback Hitachi or a Weber. GD

It helped some in my hatch. Mostly it helps it go in easier - the grinding and poping out of gear is due to worn components so it can't cure that entirely. Mine will only grind if I push it into third too softly - I don't have the popping out of gear problem once it's in. With the scotty's it shifts smoother and easier so the problem has diminished from once every 4 or 5 up-shifts and nearly every down-shift to perhaps once every 20 or 30 shifts in general. Maybe once a week I miss 3rd gear. Also make sure your linkage is in good repair - the bushings are cheap from the dealer. Was about $15 for all of them on my 4 speed and it helps a lot to know where the gears are, and helps you to feel that you are getting it lined up properly. The bushings may be worse off due to previous owners/drivers forcing the linkage because of the grinding and popping. That bends things and destroy's the plastic/rubber bushings. But yes - with some scotty's, some linkage repair, and a bit of "getting-used-to", I think that you could get many more miles from your coupe tranny. It's not going to be new again, but it will be much improved and you'll be able to live with it. GD

At that temp you are getting into the range where you really should be running an oil cooler and synthetic oil. The spec Subaru thermostat's are 192..... 225 is a tad bit high for my liking but an oil cooler should bring that down a bit - and synthetic would be best. GD

I don't beleive that your code list is accurate. I will get back to you with a more accurate code detrmination when I have access to my manual's later today. GD

Yeah - the one you want is the bottom one. There could be corrosion keeping it from comming out as the base is cast iron. If you have a mechanic's mirror ($1 at the parts counter usually) that will help you see what you are up against better. I suppose I should update this post huh? GD

+1 for Loosen the PP bolts. I never use an alignment tool - they are cheap plastic and often don't work right causing your exact situation. Tighten the bolts only enough so that you can reach in and move the disc around but don't leave them so loose that the disc just flops in there by itself. It should move with a slight resistance and stay where you move it to. Eyeball the disc to the center and the tranny will slide right on - gauranteed. Then tighten the PP bolts to spec through the starter hole. GD

It should be noted that this procedure is critical as the bearing caps set the front ring/pinion gear lash and if set incorrectly you WILL be buying a new transmission. GD

'86 could be either EA81 or EA82. So do you have an EA81 hatchback or an EA82 3-door coupe? Either way an 86 with a D/R is going to be carbed.... so you have a feedback carb. Best option is to rip it off and install a Weber. Aside from that, we'll need more info for further diagnosis. GD

Not worth it - the parts alone would cost more than a good used tranny. When rebuilding automatic transmissions, always figure around $1000 to $1200 give or take. And don't attempt the job yourself - without proper tools and training you'll just waste money and tear out your hair. And it probably won't last long as long as a used one would. GD

You can use the XT6 pressure plate, and 83+ 4WD EA81 disc with an EA82 flywheel if you use a throwout bearing for a Nissan 720 truck. That would be the best option for a wheeler and you would already be setup for a 5 speed swap - just change the disc. GD

That's a common motor and pump bearings size -ZZ-C3 is motor bearing rated - higher quality. GD

I generally like the SKF's - the better ones are made in Austria. We also use a lot of F AG (without the space) bearings in the shop for the cheaper equipment - mostly made in korea, ect. But Korean is better than Chinease I would think. GD