GeneralDisorder

Just get some gasket paper and use a ball bearing to knock out the holes for the cover. GD

If they don't slide right in, you need to dress the surface of the shaft. Abrasive cloth and a file or piece of sharpening stone will get them in shape. Coat the surface of the shaft in anti-sieze then thin it with a drop or two of oil. That will help it slide in smoothly. Careful insertion will avoid binding - rotating and working it side to side can help. Forcing it will only result in it binding more. Pounding them in is actually quite bad for the bearings as you are impacting the balls between the inner and outer bearing races. This will cause beaing failure in pretty short order. Expect to be replacing them soon. You can also easily gall the shaft or the bearing races doing that. The factory tool pulls them in without impact but should still not be used unless the fit is smooth and no binding is encountered. GD

Remove the stock jack holder and move the battery to the other side as it was on EA81T's. Put the jack behind the seat. GD

I've never had a problem adjusting them without any special tools. Get some metric feeler gauges or better yet some metric shim stock. At work we have 36" loose metric feeler gauges made from shim stock - having them really long makes them easier to work with. Get some metric "midget" open end wrenches. I do it from under the car on a creeper. Takes 20 minutes at most. GD

TDC on the compression stroke? 1. Find TDC on the compression stroke of #1 2. Turn the flywheel BACK to 8 degrees BTDC. 3. Line up the rotor with whichever cap tower you want to be #1 4. Install the wires in the order 1,3,2,4 counter-clockwise from the one you chose to be #1 I am rarely off by more than 1 degree doing it this way. GD

I recently had a similar result with a VW type 3 sqaureback. Sat for 13 years. I had to dissasemble the fuel pump as it had just the slightest amound of varnish keeping it from turning. Fired right up on 13 year old gas. GD

You don't understand - the pin on the ignition switch has no connection to the starter or anything else unless the key is in the crank position. Just like a relay powered off the starter solenoid would have. Except using the pin you don't need the relay. This is one of the elements required for the SPFI swap as well, and has been done both ways - using the relay as you pointed out, or by using the correct pin on the ignition switch harness under the dash. GD

GD

If it's a decal I would use a heat gun. GD

You needn't have done that actually. It's not on the starter - it's on the ignition switch. There is a pin that is hot only in crank (start). It's used for the start signal to the ECU on fuel injected models, but it's a standard arrangment on all the ignition switches - the EA81's had the pin even. Just wire that to bypass the resistor and no relay required. GD

Interco Swampers. GD

Yes - the drive gears are different between OHV and OVC (EA82) engines. Thats neat that the parts from the ND units will swap around like that. It's all up to what you know, and what you are comfortable with really. Electronic's were just a way for the manufacturers to get away from short maintenance intervals, and be able to drive a hotter spark across a larger gap - very helpful for forced induction applications. There's also no cam to wear - no mechanical parts at all since the electronics use a hall-effect induction rotor. One thing you should take note of though - you may want to swap coil's for a more conventional coil that will mate better with a point's style system. GD

My 84 through 87 Brat/Hatch wireing diagram book shows fuse 13 as being coil power. But it could be different on an 82. Sadly this stuff changed almost yearly till 84. GD

Hhhhmmm - I haven't met the non-reciprocating automotive refrigeration pump yet. Must just be a primitive design. Or do you mean it's a crank/connecting rod recip rather than the wobble plate style that's more common. If that's the case I haven't seen one of those on a Subaru, but I haven't run across this York setup either. In industrial equipment, they are just now starting to get into the Scroll style compressors that the consumer market has been using for years. I would think that they would be excelent for automotive - more effecient, and smaller in size. Fewer moving parts as well. GD

Seriously - just start over. Get an unhacked wireing harness and start from scratch. Sounds like a serious mess - the amount of time you'll spend troubleshooting it now, and later on when another issue crops up will be far longer than swapping the whole harness. GD

Timesert is better than heli-coil for this application. Either one would most likely work, but the timesert is a much higher quality device. http://www.timesert.com/ GD

The choke has an fast idle cam that should cause it to idle around 1500 RPM when cold. Sounds like the idle speed screw is backed off too far, or there are vacuum leaks that is causing the idle to be too rough or too low once the fast idle cam pulls back when the choke warms. The EA82 Hitachi carbs are notorious for having broken choke bi-metal springs. The hook on the end of the spring wears through and falls off rendering them inoperable. There could be many other things at work here as well - there are several thermo-vacuum valves that control air supply to air metering ports on the carb body - if there were a leak in one of the valves, or a cracked/unhooked hose it would act similar. At any rate there are definately problems with your carb adjustments as the idle when cold should be much higher than what you have. GD

Clearly you don't know much, because the only simple "CV" joint used in an EA is the front outer joint. The rest are Double Offset Joints, which are a specific type of Constant Velocity joint that allows for stretch. It is not, however, refered to as a CV as that is not descriptive of it's entire function. Also not all EA series used DOJ's in the rear - they used to use u-joint axles like the Z cars in the 70's. At any rate, rear axles are always different. They have nothing in common with fronts on any Subaru. GD

Correct. The distributors are interchangeable - they have two wires for triggering the coil and nothing more. GD

A late 70's non-electronic Hitachi distributor from an EA71 would work but you have to change the drive gear, which entails redrilling the shaft as the spring pin placement isn't the same. The adjustment slot (there will be only 1) will have to be moved - so you might have to do some TIG welding to the case to modify the adjustment plate. Much easier to just carry an extra electronic distributor and coil under the seat wrapped in a shop rag. In the unlikely event that an electronic module fails, you can swap out both in less time than it takes to fool with points, condensor, and coil. Plus the 100,000+ maintenance free miles makes up for a failure once in a while as you save time on the maintenance end, plus the cost of the replacement components every 15,000 miles. The parts for them are also difficult to source should you have a breakdown. Although anyone with points that doesn't carry a new set, a used set, an extra condensor, and a coil is just as screwed as someone that doesn't carry an ignition module. GD

There aren't any black connectors for the ECU mode controls. They are green, and white. You are looking for a set of single pole white connectors - should be right next to the green ones. GD

Last year for carbs was 89 for the EA81 hatchback. Being it's most likely SPFI (there were a few '90 turbo Loyale's - including the RS), you should run a D-Check to determine if there are any codes present. GD

Depends on the size tires you run. I have broken axles with 28's on dry pavement. The bigger the tire, the more leverage and grip it has. 2,500 lbs of car can put enough load on the DOJ cups to blow them in half if you have enough leverage and grip. Stock size tires shouldn't break anything - will just be annoying. GD

I just pulled a column from the junk yard today and that ground wire you refer to attaches to the column mounting bolt on the left side. Such was the case with the 82 column I was pulling anyhow - it had a feedback ECU as well so I'm assuming it's the same as yours. GD

That's for the key warning chime. You can just leave it hanging if you don't care. Otherwise I'm not sure what to tell you other than you must be missing the mate to it. Got to be there somewhere I'm sure. Check behind the left front speaker. That's the usual location for the dash ground. You got me there - the ECU for feedback carb's has a built-in LED that flashes codes.... so I'm not sure what you are refering to. GD