GeneralDisorder

It's not that bad, but it looks like it is till you read through it a few times and get your head around everything that needs to be done. The SPFI is actually quite simple - one injector, and just half a dozen sensors or so. A few fuses, some power supply wires, and a bit of wireing. It pretty much bolts together, and once you have an understanding of fuel injection in general as well as the factory service information at the bottom of my write up - it's no big deal. GD

If you couldn't keep the EA82T running, then you'll never succesfully swap an EJ in there - especially a japanese one that has no ECU, no wireing, and came from a RHD car.... Stop wasting your money kid - just buy an Impreza like the rest of the kids and go have fun with it and your friends. You'll be years swapping an EJ in there and you'll have a hacked together peice of crap when you are done that no one will touch. No joke - this is WAY more complicated than you think/know. GD

That's fine because this isn't about convincing you. It's about convincing all of them [sweeps arm wide - indicating a crowd]. Your opinions are formed - nothing I say will change them. GD

Did you look at my write-up? Link ^ up there. GD

I live in Oregon. Yes I live near a city, but BFE is not far. I agree when it comes to a lot of the newer cars. But the SPFI is primitive as injection goes. A very, very small box of spare parts and some know-how are all you need. Carbs are no different - you still need to carry spare parts regardless of the fuel system. And even if you have a carb, there are still just as many situations that will get you stranded. This supposed "random electronics failure" that everyone is scared of rarely materializes, and a short read through a few posts on here and elsewhere will give you a comprehensive list of those items that should always be on hand for spares. It boils down to being prepared. And with electronics as with many things that just means having a backup plan - be it a part, or a sat-phone, or a folded up ultra-light in the back of your wagon.... people without plans die. That's life. Making a plan for fuel injection is no harder than it is for anything else. It just takes some education and you aren't willing to get it. Thats fine with me - but don't give BS excuses about stuff being inferior just because you don't understand it. Let the man make his own decisions. If you have legitemate concerns about specific failures or components that you have experience with - then by all means express those concerns. Sweeping generalizations about the inferiority of fuel injection will get you flamed.... in case you haven't noticed . GD

And here's my conversion write-up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

That's just silly. Injection has benefits beyond what carbs can do. It's both simpler and often more reliable - there are few moving parts, and most injection systems including the SPFI being discussed here can outlive a carb easily with usually no maintenance beyond some filters. The SPFI on my Brat for example came from a wrecked 91 Loyale with 254,000 miles on it. WRECKED - as in running fine. Show me a carb that can do that and still run like the day it rolled off the line. None can - mechanical parts wear out faster than electronic parts. Not to mention the SPFI's computer control allows it greater flexibility with respect to tuneing. That means more power, AND better mileage across all engine speeds. Zero fuel usage while coasting under closed throttle, etc. The ECU has hundreds of mapping points for both timing and fuel. Carb's have at most a couple (usually two or three jetting points) to work with and everything inbetween is interpolated. This whole argument over the years between carbs and fuel injection is vacuous - it's just another case of people not wanting to learn something new and finding some argument to justify their pig-headedness. I totally understand - you were the king of the world when carbs were the last word in fuel management. Now you have to learn something new and it feels shameful to learn it from someone half your age..... I get that. It's human nature. But to tell people carbs are better because they "work" just to feel better about the situation is pretty small minded. I'm here to tell you that fuel injection "works" too - damn well I might add. And in these times of soaring gas prices it's almost criminal not to sugest he consider the conversion - even a few extra MPG is worth the additional work as the parts are cheaper than a new Weber and plentiful to boot. GD

Legacy's are new generation - you should post it in that forum. GD

That probably won't change anything frankly. Don't change any lines unless you actually find a leak (spray around with carb cleaner till the engine changes pitch). Some of the lines have "orifices" in them so you have to be very careful about such changes. Look and disect each line you intend to replace. Most will not need replaceing. What you need is a factory service manual if you intend to effectively work on the feedback system. It's a computer controlled carb and there's a ton of troublshooting information that you'll need to do any proper diagnostics. Or just put on a non-feedback Hitachi, a Weber, or SPFI. Those are much better options in my opinion. GD

Fix it - Justy engines are easy to rebuild from what I hear. Probably the usual oil pump problem they always have went a bit too far on it. GD

Neither one will cause that kind of poor mileage. The first is just the idle cut solenoid to prevent dieseling on shutdown. Removing the needle was the correct thing to do. Make sure the bare wire doesn't short out on something though. The idle mixture adjustment screw that your dad messed with just changes the idle mixture to richer or leaner. That *can* have a minor effect on off-idle hessitation but it's very minor - mostly it can make another problem worse. The idle circuit has absolutely no involvement in mileage though because you are never driving it at idle. Anything over about 1500 RPM and the idle circuit receives no vacuum so cannot supply any fuel. Your mileage problems are related to something else. Probably an incorrectly operating feedback system, and potentially vacuum leaks by the sounds of things. GD

No - 7/16 is the next size up from the stock threads. 7/16 (coarse) works well as there is no drilling required. Get two taps - cut the taper off one of them and use it as a bottoming tap to get the last few threads cut. Then use all-thread or buy studs to finish the job right. GD

All things considered, that's a pretty rare phenomenon. At least I've never seen it personally in an EA soob. Drop the y-pipe, cut an access "flap" out of the top of the cat (die grinder or angle grinder - the cat's are stainless so don't try torching it open unless you use a steel overlay), and dump out the contents. Weld it back up and put the heat sheilds back on - no one will be the wiser. I've done many . GD

That would be a better option. I think you would want to plug the vac hose rather than connecting them together. GD

The general consensus is that the factory housings aren't suited to HID's. Better to either get a quality set of aftermarket driving lights, or to have one of us pick up some quality halogen bulbs from the US and ship them to you. There are some decent quality brands availible here. GD

That will most likely be a bad combination. The ECU will know the slow solenoid is disconnected and may go into limp mode as soon as it sees it's gone. GD

XT's were MPFI non-turbo and the gasket may be slightly different as they had the spider intake's. GD

I couldn't tell you for sure. It's related to the mixture being leaned out too far most likely. Weather that is because the duty solenoid isn't opening and closing the way it should, because of a vacuum leak, or because the ECU is telling it to be open/closed too much based on poor sensor inputs.... I do not know nor is there a way for me to tell. If you want to troubleshoot the feedback system there is no other way but for you to get a factory service manual (I don't have one covering the EA82 feedback) and go through all the testing and troubleshooting procedures. None as far as I know. They are sealed units that open/close at a high cycle-per-second rate. I wouldn't dissasemble one and expect it to work afterward anyway. They are only exposed to clean filtered air so there shouldn't be any contaminates in them. GD

Yes - fill the filter with a bit of oil to get the paper started absorbing it. It will absorb a lot more than you think. Then crank it without the coil wire hooked up till you see the oil pressure gauge start to rise, or about 15 seconds if you don't have an OP gauge. GD

I always bought them at Autozone. Had to order them online last time as the store wanted to charge 5 times the online price. I think they were $14.99 or so. GD

Temp sensor is fine actually - you need the *change* the fuel level sender (in the tank), and add the GL oil pressure sender. You can actually use the same wire that is used for the oil pressure idiot switch - you just repurpose it to be the pressure sender wire instead. The swap is straightforward enough - I went so far as to go from an 84 digi to an '81 vertical needle, orange cluster. That required adding some diodes to a few circuits, etc. Connie - did you get the scans? GD

That just isn't true. If it were, carbed engines would not start at WOT. Plus the accelerator pump is still working so every time he actuates the throttle fuel is being dumped in. The safe bet is to eliminate the fuel from the equation in any case. One cannot compare their numbers to anyone else's if there isn't a standardized testing method that virtually gaurantees the tests are done the same. GD

Hard to say for sure. If there was a solid correction factor then there would be no need to test in this manner. Each cylinder will get sucessively worse as you test because the unburned fuel washes the oil off the cylinder walls. GD

You should have all the plugs out so it turns over faster. Unplug the fuel pump and start the engine - run it till it dies. You don't want fuel washing down the cylinder walls while you are testing. GD

Those are fine. All plugs removed, fuel pump unplugged and throttle plates wide open? GD