GeneralDisorder

The EA82 version is virtually identical. It's a pretty simple thing - I even adapted the one on my '86 sedan to work with the Weber I had on it. I welded a bolt to the end of the "hook" and added some washers, etc to adjust it accurately to the Weber's linkage. GD

Nickle anti-seize is what you want to use on the nut and cone washer. Just a light coating. GD

No - it's a threaded, flared pipe fitting. There's nothing to bolt to. GD

Well there's a couple ways. The best involve your little welder . Easiest way: The pipe from the head spacer plate to the valve is steel. Cut it off - leaving about 2" at the ferule to the plate. Smash the cut end flat and run a bead across the seam. Instant cap. Harder but cleaner way: Remove the pipe and again cut near the ferule - but remove the ferule from the pipe and stick a washer or something else that just barely fits down inside the ferule. Weld it up solid. When you do it this way you need to leave the last 1/4" of the pipe inside the ferule - the flared part that actually seals into the plate or it will leak around the threads. This is the method I personally use. GD

Just follow the pipe that comes off the exhaust spacers under the heads. That goes to the reed valve (Air Suction Valve or ASV). From the valve you have a rubber peice that connects to a plastic canistor - those are just mufflers or "silencers" to dampen the noise of the open exhaust when the reeds suck air. From there you generally go to the air cleaner - or in your case you can use a couple of those little cone filters I mentioned. Some ASV's are vacuum operated via a thermo-vacuum valve or ecu controlled vacuum valve. If you have that type (they have a vacuum nipple on top and are bigger) then you should replace them with the non-vacuum (passive) style ASV's that came on non-feedback models. GD

They get dirty, and they get worn. The seats for the check valve get beat up in them, etc. It's stuff you have to measure to see - just looking at them you won't see anything wrong. They are highly precise little machines and it takes only a little bit of grit or a slightly large clearance to make them leak. GD

Nope - just use some of those mineature cone filters people stick on their V8 valve covers. They just need fresh filtered air to keep stuff out of the reed machanism. GD

That works on some of them probably.... some of the AC brackets are different than other's. Dealer vs. factory vs. year. I know that wouldn't have worked on my 84 wagon. The AC bracket was an unholy cast iron thing that weighed at least 10 pounds. Good riddance. GD

Technically, having a Weber (or not) has nothing to do with the ASV's. They operate from the exhaust pulse alone. The hoses to the valves only need fresh air from the filter or their own small filters (reccomended) for them to work. The valves often break though - especially at high mileage. So it's often best to either remove them or to disable them using a quarter between the pipe and the valve. This way they can't fail and you can leave them in place using the quarter trick in case you have to go through emissions with the car. Personally I like them gone, but they can work with the Weber. The catalyst is more effecient when it has fresh oxygen to work with. GD

Yes - you need the brackets from a non-AC EA81 - both the inner and outer brackets - don't forget the round spacer under the inner bracket. Then you have to change the pulley over and you will have to reposistion the output terminal and add some washers to the inner pivot area to make up for the difference in thickness on the XT6 alt. It's pretty easy stuff though. No doubt about it. There's nothing quite like knowing you did it yourself. GD

Wasn't that hard was it? You have a better understanding now don't you? GD

Not the modification I would pick first - just wouldn't use it often enough to justify. You would want to use a 1/4" ball-valve, and some 1/4" brass nipples. Easy enough to do - I just don't see the point when a pair of vice grips will do the same job. You are still going to get fuel out of the filter, etc - so you still need a drain pan and gloves. GD

Correct - it would blow a fuse. GD

True - the lines will siphon the tank dry if you don't do something. Not everyone realizes that the first time. GD

I install a new one in every engine when I aquire it or put it into use. I have found so many that were bad, and lost one of my first EA81's to a rod bearing failure that I could have prevented, that I just buy a new pump before I even remove the old one. That way I can tear the old one down at my leisure and check the internals. If they are good I'll mark them as such and store them away as spares...... I have zero used spares..... see what I mean? The fact that your's looks so good speaks to the validity of keeping your original engine. The rest of the internals are almost certain to look just as good seeing as it ran fine, etc. That is actually quite normal for the Subaru boxer engines. The cylinders being horizontal tends to hold lubrication better than a more vertical arrangement which would tend to drain it away. I have yet to encouter an EA engine personally that didn't still have the factory hone marks. It can happen, but it's generally due to complete lack of lubrication. You have an excelent engine there - Rob wouldn't have steered you wrong with the coupe, I know that. Knowing that, and what you have told us about it.... you are better off with it's original engine than a lower mileage replacement of lesser-known history any day of the week. It really isn't the mileage that takes them off the road. It's the years, the little things (electrical, worn carbs, etc) that all start mounting. The car gets old, becomes unwanted, and is relagated to the "kids" car.... or whatever. The engine internals are hardcore reliable if the maintenance is kept up on. A properly maintained EA81 should need little more than a valve job (probably once) to reach 500k. The internals are easily capable of it from what I've seen. GD

While I do not think that you folks will have any luck building HHO generators out of your garage, I would like to point out a few things. 1. Hydrogen, if you could get enough of it, and assuming an engine that is capable of leaning out the fuel discharge to accept it, could indeed increase your gasoline mileage. 2. Conservation of energy is not violated if you do it right. Yes it requires current, which would normally draw on the alternator. BUT there are ways to "bring extra current from home". It's called a battery. Or several of them. You pull cheap power off the grid by chargeing it/them each night instead of burning more expensive gasoline to generate the neccesary current with the alternator. 3. It's entirely possible that the idea could work at some level. I'm not saying it's viable as a consumer product or as a item for automotive makers to employ, but as a sceince experiment it might be interesting. GD

There's no adjustment on an 86 Brat engine as it would be a hydro lifter engine. So either he's full of crap or the engine is a replacement. GD

That's just silly. Clamp the lines off with a proper clamp - vice grips and two nickels, small c-clamps, welding clamps, etc, etc. There's no reason to get drenched in gas or try to stab a golfing T in the line (and how many mechanics golf anyway ). Last time I did one I didn't lose a drop on the ground or on myself (except my gloves of course). GD

I have yet to break a pump doing a reseal. You have have to twist and pull to get them off. GD

+1 - it's always the nasty rear one that gets people. It's next to the pump under the car near the tank. People replace the vapor seperator thinking it's a filter (it is, but that's not it's primary job) without realizing that the real filter is before the pump and the seperator under the hood receives primarily clean fuel. GD

It should be completely closed when cold. But that doesn't mean the fast idle cam is working. Sounds like it is not as it should idle around 2,000 RPM when cold anyway. Drilling the rivets is easy - 1/4" bit will pop the heads right off then you just drive out the rivet with a punch. Pan head phillips self tappers are the way to go for putting it back on. GD

Hhhmmm - I'm not quite following what you are saying. There's always oil present in the valve covers due to the horizontal nature of the boxer engine. The PCV system (if it's not working correctly) will suck the oil into the airbox. Blow-by is a fact of life for all engines. The PCV is there to deal with exactly this problem. Granted if there was *too much* for the PCV to handle then you might get a pressure build - but it would escape through the oil dipstick hole, and you would blow seals out, etc. Experience over the years has shown that Subaru's engines just do not wear out their bore's.... virtually ever. Every single engine I've torn down had the factory cross-hatching still visible - even at 300,000 miles. Further - the early EA82 SPFI's had a recall for exactly this problem as the PCV system was incorrectly designed from the factory and sucks oil on turns. His engine is a prime example of the pre-recall style PCV routing, and what it will cause over time. Chances are very slim that the engine has any kind of blow-by that is above average and that the PCV can't deal with if it's clean and working correctly. Cylinder/ring wear in the EA's is never seen - the bottom end will go twice over before the rings would wear out. I suppose it's due to the cylinders not being vertical and thus not tending to drain lubrication away from the wear surfaces. The lubrication is nearly perfect and thus the metal almost never touches. Thanks - It was a cool learning experience. Hope you find it useful. GD

Those are the infamous 60,000 mile EGR switch leads. Ignore them. Use the other connector for the speed sensor per my write up. GD

That's really a very excelent question. I'll tell you what I know. 1. The oil pressure gauge runs directly off the pump. It's pressure is related *mostly* to the condition of the pump and not the condition of the engine. Thus bad oil pressure indicates a bad pump, not poor clearances in the engine as some people beleive. I like to see at least 20 psi at idle with the engine at operating temp. Any lower than 15 and I start finding out why. 2. The condition of the pump over time is directly correlated with the maintenance the lubrication system has had. If the filter gets clogged (pressure across the filter is too high) the bypass valve inside the filter will open and allow unfilted oil with contaminates in it to flow through the pump. This is obviously bad for many reasons (but still better than no oil due to a clogged filter), and shortens the life of the pump by a lot - not to mention the mains and rod bearings. The pump takes the hit HARD if you have any particulates that get through the filter (via bypass valve, crappy filter, whatever) as it's bushings are just aluminium and are not resistant to wear at all. 3. Basically, since the pump comes apart so easily, it's best to take them down and do an inspection of them. In Connie's case this was doubly important due to the mileage and the fact that the digi-dash has no oil pressure gauge. GD

The rotor to end-plate area with the scoring is not so worrying actually. Inspect the rotor shaft where it rides in the end plate bushings. From your pictures it looks OK to me but I would prefer a closer veiw to give a confirmation one way or the other. Here's what I'm talking about. This pump came from my 230k hatch: And a close up of the damage that's critical: And the housing: The play in the rotor was so severe that measureing the clearances inside the pump is all but impossible. The various pieces are now paper weights. GD