GeneralDisorder

That's what you would expect, but without knowing how many amps you were pushing though it... could have been several hundred if it was a dead short. The spec is at 130 amps - which is a LOT. For conduit runs that will see 130 amps (that's about a 125 HP three-phase motor) the specification is for 250 Amp time-delay motor rated fuses and 3/0 (000) wire. Stranded copper as big around as your thumb (and I've seen those get hot). Thus my concern at this 15 second number.... GD

Remove the valve cover and look at the push-rod. If it's solid steel they are hydro. If it's aluminium with a steel cap they are solid. GD

EA82 carb's only have the one by the tank. It's the EA81's that have the "vapor seperator" that is also a filter in the front. GD

You just didn't use enough heat fast enough. You have to get a LOT of heat to the cup before it soaks into the stub. Borrow or rent an oxy-torch. Use a #2 cutting tip and just use the preheat flame. Should be plenty of heat to expand the cup and get it off the splines. GD

Could be the switch or the resistor block. But put 12v to the motor first. It's just a blower motor - lots of 12v DC motors will fit or interchange. Not particularly rare. GD

I told him to do that 13 threads ago . As long as the solenoid is there and the ref thinks it's hooked to the EGR (through some magical hard lines under the manifold ), then you are golden. The solenoid is only there for warm-up. He see's a solenoid, and a working EGR, and lines all around plus no codes.... good enough. GD

Right on - that's the attitude to have. I'll be hooking up my wideband to my Weber soon so I'll have a better idea of how to help you. GD

There is your mis-understanding. All fuses have some sort of time-delay. Although the common automotive fuses aren't usually marked with this sort of rating as they do blow "almost" instantly - for most purposes. Fuses that most people come in contact with are designed that way. But most of your three-phase industrial fuses are time-delay. This is because across-the-line starters and such draw down HUGE amperage when starting three phase motors. 7 to 10 times the rated full load amps (FLA) of the motor. Time delay fuses or breakers are employed that allow for that. The 12v DC variety of fuseing though is not done this way. The links are there primarily to prevent fires from direct shorting or bypassing the fuses, etc. They are designed to melt rapidly when you exceed their rating - IE: before the wireing melts and catches fire. 130 amps through a 10 or 12 AWG wire is a LOT. I hope 15 seconds is wrong as that would likely leave the car pretty crispy. If you actually melted one, I wouldn't be surprised at all if you melted wireing insulation elsewhere in the harness if that 15 second rule is accurate. GD

I highly doubt you have a coil problem. The stock coil's rarely fail and when they do I have never known one to cause any kind of hard starting - they just don't run at all. They are oil-filled and when they short, they usually dead short and won't spark at all. Also the ND and Hitachi coil's have different specs for primary/secondary resistance. Your readings sound just fine. Your problem is fuel/timing related. When was the last time you checked out the mechanical advance in the distributor. Perhaps it's sticky. Have you tried the $8 manual choke kit? Seriously - the electric choke's on the EA82's are crap. It's either over or under chokeing it when hot. Or you have a thermo-valve that is opening one of the vacuum valves when hot... etc. There's a lot of stuff in the feedback's that could cause that. The coil is so far down the list you shouldn't consider it. GD

1. Remove #1 plug - find TDC using a drinking straw and with your finger make sure both valves are closed (air will push past your finger). 2. Align the timing mark with 8 degrees BTDC. 3. Install the distributor with the rotor pointing at one of the plug tower's. 4. Install the plug wires counter-clockwise from the tower you chose in the order 1,3,2,4. 5. Adjust final timing with a light off the #1 plug wire. GD

How else would you rate it? It's a device desiged to burn up when "too much" current passes through it. Current is rated in Amperes.... ergo how else would you put a number to "too much". I would have to look in the FSM for the specifications on the red link's to tell you for sure if they are 50. Probably. Sounds about right. The concerning part is that you blew one in the first place. And don't go willy-nilly replacing the original's with "new" ones. There's no benefit to that and messing with something that works isn't smart. Find out why you blew the first one. That should NEVER happen. GD

Brat = 4WD, so probably not. Gearing differences. Freeway he should see around 27 maybe 28. GD

It's not that simple. It runs for a specified time interval when you switch it to on as well. It primes for about 1.5 seconds. Then it turns off till it see's a tach signal. There's a fuel pump control unit that's responsible for that unless it's a feedback carb. Disconnect the line and power the pump externally to verify operation and fuel flow. GD

Unfortunately the SPFI canister has 4 lines with one capped off. So not sure how you can explain that to the ref.... At least the one on my 91 has 4 lines with one capped and it's a stock 91 canister. That's just BS. But whatever. Yeah - that makes sense. Dymo to the rescue. . I would have done it while he was standing there. Insane. Clean it - soak the moving pin and such in carb cleaner to disolve the carbon. If that doesn't do it then replace it with a JY model. GD

That's way too much for a 2WD with that mileage. Pass. GD

Should be 50's. Kit contents may change, but jetting wouldn't. GD

I keep saying this but I'll say it again - you DO NOT have to pull the motor. All the seals that you need to replace are accesible without pulling the engine. And if you are doing HG's then that really means just the oil pump and the pan. You don't even have to jack it up to get the pan off. The flywheel and clutch assembly is accesible if you remove the radiator, unbolt the engine and pull it forward and sightly up - you can do it with a 2x4 under the oil pan and a bottle jack. Once it's seperated there is enough room to replace the clutch and R&R the flywheel no problem without removeing the engine. GD

Right on - looks good except your PCV and breather lines aren't routed correctly/at all. You need to T both valve covers and the PCV valve into the white elbow on the bottom of the Weber filter. And you don't need to put vacuum caps on all the old "hardlines". Those go nowhere now as you should have disconnected all of the items they once supplied. They are not attached to the manifold - it's just a big spider-like thing composed of a bunch of steel tubing that's bolted to the underside of the manifold. That's the air suction valve. Look behind the valve itself and you'll see where the tube from the exhaust spacer threads into it. Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the valve to it's bracket and unthread the flare fitting for the tubing. Drop a quarter (yes - $0.25) into the valve and reinstall it. This will effectively "shut it off". You don't need it and it's not doing anything useful for you. If you want more info on them do a search for "ASV" or Air Suction Valve. They supply oxygen-laden air for part of the old-style catalytic converter to function more effeciently. That's a lot better than my kit. Glad they take sugestions on this stuff apparently. Mine was horrible - didn't include any of that linkage stuff, had the 3" filter, and the adaptor plate. And it cost me $399 back in like '03. Oh well - live and learn. My last one cost $190 cause I built it myself . GD

236k on the motor in my hatch - excelent power (Weber right now), doesn't burn much oil, and I fixed all the oil leaks. Really - that's fairly low mileage for an EA81. Listen - I know these engines - inside and out. Take $100 and a weekend and do the head gaskets. Trust me - if it doesn't work you are out a couple days and $100 and you'll already have half the familarity with the process you need to put in the CCR engine. It simply IS NOT worth the investment of a CCR engine. While I understand that you like the car and wish to restore it - it's worth virtually peanuts to all but a very select crew (mostly here). And in the comming years it will actually be worth more if the engine is original. And if, sometime down the road, the thing does blow completely up, you can put in the CCR engine or have them rebuild your's. The head gaskets are done in the car. Let me break it down for you: 1. Drain coolant. 2. Drop y-pipe. Nothing you haven't done before I'm sure. 3. Pull manifold - label everything. I'm assuming you have removed a manifold before right? 6 bolts and a flare fitting for the EGR. Take your time and don't break the bolts, but don't worry too much - the heads are comming off so if you have to have a bolt removed it's cheap - $25 or so. It will have to be done anyway with a CCR engine - or even with a Weber swap as you need the Hitachi manifold for the Weber. 4. Remove valve covers (you have done that before too I'm sure). 4 bolts here. 5. Pull the two head bolts that hold the rocker arms on and remove them (though an access hole in the fender well - you just pop out a rubber plug directly opposite the bolts). Remove the push-rods and label them (4 on each side) for location. 6. Pull the remaining head bolts and seperate the head from the block at the gasket. 7. Inspect everything - post pictures here, ect, ect. 8. Clean, Clean, Clean. Razor blades, degreaser, etc for the mating surfaces. A fine wire wheel chucked into a drill works well for the manifold, block and heads. Just a light hit though - major chunks should be removed with the razor blades. 9. Reinstall the heads with new gaskets - oil the bolts and torque them to 55 Ft/lbs in the correct sequence starting at 20 lbs, then 40, and then 55. A $10 harbor freight torque wrench is all you need. 10. New manifold and y-pipe gaskets and reinstall both. 11. Hoses - anything else you removed. Fill with coolant. 12. Done. Really - this is not the bad job people think it is, and you are more than qualified. You have a socket set right? That's all you need - borrow a torque wrench or buy the $10 HF unit. It works just fine for what you will be doing. You have the tools, and with the board and your manuals you have the knowledge. The difference it will make on your confidence level is worth the investment. You almost can't fail with a job this easy. Remember how easy people told you the rear discs were? It was true wasn't it? With Rob and the rest of us you can easily do HG's. Anything that might come up any of us can solve over the phone - your support network is amazing and you don't have to rely on the car for transportation - there's people out there that would kill for those advantages. Use them - that's all I'm asking. GD

No hoist or stand required. HG's are easily done in the vehicle - especially on EA81's. And with the help of the board and it's members, how could it turn to poo? Collectively we have solved so much worse.... GD

Doing so almost always dooms the bearings in the compressor. You could try it' date=' but you'll likely end up with bearing failure shortly after.

The SPFI wouldn't do that without throwing a code, and I'm pretty sure he knows better than that - it was a "15 MPH" test after all.... GD

EA81 oil pans have no baffle plates like EA82's. There is no need to jack up the engine. It's actually quite easy. I use a large phillips screwdriver for the back bolts. They come out easily. GD

Yes..... but we were talking about tank lines - not vacuum lines. Tank lines are for fuel or fuel vapor - not manifold vacuum. GD

Yes - I understand that. Yes - you are correct. I missed the RPM thing. Up here in OR we test idle and cruise only - not the 15 MPH thing. So when quickly reading his rest results I incorrectly assumed the first set was idle, not 1800 RPM. GD