GeneralDisorder

I have the two peice in my Brat. Just build some little brackets for the center carrier bearing. Took me like an hour and cost me nothing. The carrier mounts are not load bearing - they support the weight of the driveline and that's all. 14 gauge sheet metal works just fine. You bend some small brackets in your bench vise, pull the carpet back and either bolt them or weld them to the pan. The two-peice has benefits: 1. less vibration potential as the center carrier is a CV joint. Mounting of the carrier is not critical - just as long as it's reasonably straight. 2. Off-the-shelf. I can get a replacement front or rear section for peanuts at literally any yard, and it's a stock Subaru part if I had to order one for whatever reason. 3. Higher ground clearance. 4. A longer single-peice will actually lower the Brat's stock driveline ground clearance as the additional length makes it stick down more in the rear. Except for hatchbacks (where you HAVE to do a custom driveline due to wheelbase), there's no reason to have custom single-peice drivelines made up. The stock two-peice is arguably better in every way.

Clogged cat's don't cause problems with power so much as they eliminate the scavenging ability and the mileage goes to poo. The O2's are narrow-band and thus have no effect on WOT operation. They are present for cruise mixture validation and correction only as they can only read 14.7:1 (stoich) mixture accurately or give a general indication of whether the ECU needs to go rich or lean to get to stoich. Valve adjustment (non hydro), tune up (cap, rotor, clean/gap plugs, wires if they look bad), check/adjust ignition timing, check ignition coil, clean air filter, inspect/clean PCV and EGR systems, etc. Make sure the secondary is opening on the carb, and look down the barrels - make sure the top cover gasket isn't melting into the carb as they do when they get old and eaten by fuel. GD

Unless it's an automatic. GD

Excelent. Most all the failure's I've seen were from improper installation, or improper routing. Got my hatch for $200 because the owner thought the clutch was bad (they had just replaced it). It was installed incorrectly at the pedal end and had broken the rubber sheath. I put in a brand new cable from the dealer and the brand new clutch they had installed worked perfectly. Time will tell if they did the clutch properly or not I suppose GD

4WD is for soft surfaces - like gravel, dirt, and mud. If you drive in 4WD on hard pavement you will not hurt anything (with stock tire sizes), but you will have "torque bind" where the car will not want to go forward if you try to turn sharply..Just like a truck. This is not AWD so it is not designed for dry pavement. GD

Was it routed under the steering linkage? I've seen them installed many, many times routed over the top (bad). GD

Hook the hose up to the water heater. GD

I always just take them loose and set them in the spare tire area. At any rate it's something you have to take loose regardless whether you do a new engine or the head gaskets. Sounds like you are doing well - good luck with the rest of the engine. GD

That's pretty typical - best power is around 12.5:1 so your meter *should* show off the scale rich whenever you get on it hard. Even slight throttle will richen the mixture past what the meter can effectively read. Remember - "off the scale" lean for you is anything above 15.1:1 or so with the narrowband sensor. You can really lean stuff out at near-closed-throttle cruise because the engine is producing very low power - thus pre-detonation isn't much of a concern. The idea is to lean it out till you start getting a small amount of lean surge (you'll understand when you start changing jets)' date=' and then go back up one step richer. It's a balancing act with the primary idle jet and the primary main jet/air corrector as light throttle cruise draws on both. Then in the secondary's you want some nice rich power making jets for passing, ect. And you want a nice flat progression between the two worlds - that's a big part of what the secondary idle jet does. It assists the progression between primary and secondary main jets.

#1. Buy a Weber kit - you'll be ahead of the game. #2. You probably won't get the right carb - there's many factors that go into that. #3. The actual model number of the carb will be on the back of the float bowl. It will be some derivation of the DCZ-328 with a few more numbers or letters. #4. Most problems people think are the carburetor are not. Most times it's either a vacuum problem or an ignition problem. Short of the DCZ choke springs, they are not bad carbs at all. They run well for a long, long time and usually only fail from top-gasket erosion or from main throttle shaft wear. Either condition is easily corrected with a rebuild kit or a throttle shaft bushing job - both of which are many, many times less expensive than a new carb. GD

I'm very interested in the Brat panel. If you could find out that would be excelent. GD

No - there is nothing but the bolt for the crank pulley's on the NA EA82's. You didn't put enough torque on it if it came loose. GD

I know - I see it in the pic. I beleive the carter/weber pipe is different. Correct me if it isn't, but it looks like it. Also it's generally easier to take them loose at the head. That way the manifold doesn't have to slide sideways to come off. Just straight up. No - you really do want it. It's just one vacuum line from the front of the Weber to the valve. That's it. And you watch the valve to be sure it opens with increased throttle. GD

Why? The Weber is fully capable of utilizing EGR and it has no drawbacks as far as the EA81 is concerned. In fact it lowers exhaust temps which help to prevent exhaust valve burning, and it lowers emissions in a pretty significant way. Connie - trust me. Leave the EGR. GD

The problem is that you are missing the EGR pipe going from the passenger side head to the manifold (the copper one) and the carter/weber one is different..... at least I think it is...... Someone has one laying around I'm sure. I have one somewhere if you can't get one from a local. Also you will need the 1-3/4" filter as the 2-1/2" unit you have is too large to clear the hood properly. It will close, but the filter with be jammed against the hood in a not-cool way. GD

Right on - glad you got it running. Was it worth doing? Your setup file would be most appreciated. I may install MS on my SPFI powered Brat prior to doing an EJ22 swap to it since the SPFI is already in place and I can do the MS install and wireing before swapping the motor out. GD

Yeah - you should always mention what car you are talking about unless people know that you know what you are asking about. I knew because I remembered your other EA81 threads about your 83 Brat. GD

That's how it works on a Legacy, but the Loyale's didn't work that way. There is enough room to accomidate the full size stock tire under the hood and they didn't come with a hold-down for the trunk area. I'm not sure what it is but it's not for the flat tire. GD

When you get a Hitachi manifold, you will also need the EGR pipe that goes to it from the passenger side head. I can see they are different from your pictures. Looks good - what exactly hasn't gone well? GD

All the hydro's have the adjusters. There is a procedure for adjusting them too. You have to look at the push-rods. GD

Yep - you won't see it on the stock coils. GD

It's for points-style ignitions. It lowers the voltage once that alternator kicks in so the engine starts easier, and the points wear slower. It's not applicable to the electronic ignition systems. GD

Not with the Subaru electronic distributor. Also you should pick up a STOCK coil. These aftermarket ones are crap. (Accel included). Get the same brand as your distributor. GD

Correct. You don't need it. What Nipper was refering to is probably a resistor - the Subaru ignition systems didn't use coil resistors as they have electronic ignition modules. GD

Looks fine - just have that bracket brazed back on. New one's are cheap though so maybe not worth the effort. New headgaskets so..... it sure is tempting. Having much work done on a radiator that cost less than $120 generally isn't a wise move. Radiator shops are too expensive at that level and will cost almost as much as new. But a good steam clean (hook your pressure washer to the hot water heater ) and braze that joint (cheap).... I would run it. GD