GeneralDisorder

Correct. Even more if you can manage it. Old VW's use the same nut and they spec the torque at 250 Ft/lbs. GD

Don't get me wrong - those are fine if you are just running a nail gun or an impact every other saturday. But they wouldn't stand up to even light commercial duty for long. It's the nature of the machine - tiny tank means it runs a lot if you are using needy air tools, no coolers so they get crazy hot on the discharge side, and that's a form-x setup so the first thing that will go is the check valve from the discharge to the receiver - then it won't start again once it's tank is pressurized. 7.7 CFM is *just* enough to run most die grinders and drills. I just see this stuff every day - most people know better than to bring us stuff that cheap (although it does happen).... would cost them more to have us tell them whats wrong and that it's not worth fixing than it would cost for them to buy another one. You can't have enough air on your budget. Buy the QT and you'll have a much easier time doing what you want. GD

That first Quincy you posted for $500 is a good deal. That's a QT-5 and with a single phase motor at that. That's about a $1500 package to buy new. I've seen worse deals. Buy it, love it, and when you have a few bucks handy PM me and have me purchase you a valve rebuild kit so you can prolong the life of the machine. It's always the valves that go on those. The kits are cheap and easy to do but people wait till the reed valves snap off and destroy the cylinders and heads. I get all parts at cost through my work as we are a Quincy distributor/manufacturer. The second one you posted is pure Chinese garbage. That's the high-RPM, loud, poor quality, annoying crap I was referring to. Notice that it's labeled as a 6 HP unit.... yeah right. If you actually read the motor data plate it will list the full load AMPS as "special" or "SPL"... it means the HP rating (which is a mathematical calculation) is taken under very specific conditions. This is often labeled as "peak" HP. It's a total marketing gimick used to sell what amounts to a 2 HP motor as a 6 HP instead. Notice the size of the 5 HP motor on the Quincy is nearly as big as the whole motor/compressor/plastic POS on top of that Craftsman tank? That's because the 5 HP on that Quincy really IS a 5 HP motor. Get the Quincy - you won't be dissapointed, and with that 80 gallon vertical and 5 HP motor you can upgrade to a QR when you find one cheap. Plus I could get you any parts you need at wholesale and I can ship them through my work for peanuts. GD

That's weird about feeling it in the pedal.... the pedal is connected to the engine only by the throttle cable - mostly it's attached to the firewall. Could be engine mounts. There should not be much play at all in the splined stubs on the tranny. What you may be experiencing is tight axle joints exposing a vibration in your loose stubs. That's entirely plausible although I hadn't thought of it till you brought it up. Unfortunately there's no good way to fix that as the rings that set the bearing play also set the ring & pinion gear lash. If you move them without dismantling the tranny and doing it right you risk severe ring & pinion wear and destruction of the front diff. It may be time to start looking for a cheap tranny replacement. One of the stubs on my hatch is like that and leaks around the seal just a bit. But it has 240k on it and I figure when it goes I'll put in a 5 speed. The EMPI axles don't vibrate much but they don't feel quite as tight as the GCK's did from what I remember. GD

I cleaned the bottom of the knock sensor and a spot closer to the tranny on the block and moved it there. No change for me. It's like a rapid pulsation - at 40 MPH in 4th gear I can floor it and the pulsation is like a machine gun - rapid and you can feel/see the shifter shaking from it. It's like the boost is fluttering. It's accompanied by a lack of power. It still accelerates but not like it should under full boost. GD

Yeah - I can never remember exactly. It will be next to the big square brown one then - above the ECU. Most of the relays are around that general area near the drivers kick panel. GD

Hhhmmm - knock sensor was not *just* replaced. That was a whole saga unfortunately. When they blew up the original engine they managed to get the whole thing so hot the knock sensor meleted into a puddle on the original block. Part of the harness melted also. I had to replace a section of harness and I soldered into the wireing back where it was still good. Sadly the RF sheilding was unsalvageable.... I hope that doesn't matter. But where did you end up moving the knock sensor to exactly? Did you tap a new hole or use an existing one? Some place more accesible I hope? I'll definately be checking the fuel pump out closer. I did redo all the wireing top-side where he cut and pasted it. I have no desire to ride the bomb. GD

I replaced the boost control solenoid and it might have helped just a bit, but the problem is still there - especially taking off from a stop. The one I put in was definately the low mileage one from the 93 automatic as it had some gizmo on the back of the bracket that my 91 doesn't have. It also looked cleaner and newer. I think I can safely rule out the BCS. I may break out my DMM and go hunting for MAF and TPS readings tonight when it cools off a bit. Anyone got the MAF and TPS pinouts and ranges? Plugs and wires look good. They were fairly new and such when the engine was installed it looks like - less than 110k on the engine and they look to be quality replacements so they can't have much mileage on them. GD

Just saw the $500 part .......... Basically you're screwed. Even a QT-3, which puts out around 6.5 CFM, will be hard pressed to run a die grinder for more than a few minutes. And most of them come with pretty small tanks. Something like this: http://www.tools-plus.com/quincy-131a30vc3a.html And even that is outside your budget range. I would check out some auctions in your area. If you can find a used QR package (there's lots of them out there) you can buy a 5 HP single phase motor (anything you find will likely be 3 phase) for around $250 and be in business.... with maybe some minor repairs. GD

Also.... in regards to your concern about it running too often..... Bigger air ends can run slower, and this has the benefit that they are *quieter* when in operation so you don't mind them as much. Most people associate compressors with being VERY loud peices of equipment. That is only true of the cheap machines that have to run extremely fast to make decent air. Running them fast wears them out quickly and makes them loud, hot, and annoying. Generally the higher quality the machine, and the larger it is, the quieter and cooler it will run. GD

Well - the first question I have to ask is what you want to do with it? I mean specifics. All air tools have different requirements. An impact will use very little air in comparison to a drill, die grinder or air-board. You can use the same compressor for both your air tools and for painting. Painting is going to require some additional accesories that air tools will not. For a paint system you will *want* some form of vapor seperator, and you will *NEED* a filter and a regulator. Many air tools will also require a regulator. Now vapor seperation can be as simple, or as horrifically complex as you can imagine . I can be nothing more than an automatic drain on a large receiver tank, or it can be a refrigerated or dessicant air drier. What is a-lot for you? You say you don't want it comming on a lot.... that is largely dependant on how big of a receiver you use. How long it stays on once it starts is dependant on the size of the air-end and how fast you run it. How much space do you have to work with? Do you want something that is portable, semi-portable, or "oh my god I hope I never have to move that sucker again!"? I'll give you some ideas of what *I* like. Bear in mind I do get this stuff for nearly free so it's just to give you an idea of what is *nice* to have, not neccesarily what the minimum you want for yourself would be. Also I am partial to the brands I work with most... I also happen to beleive them to be of superior quality in most respects... and they are made right here in the US. That said.... I personally (and ALL my co-workers) swear by the Quincy QR series recip (piston) compressors. They are full-industrial machines that can be handed down to your children. I have worked on fully functioning QR's from the 1940's. They can be rebuilt and maintained indefinately unless they are seriously abused (which actually happens a lot because they are generally so reliable that people forget about maintenance). For my garage machine I have a vertical 80 gallon tank with a QR-325 run with a single-phase, 5 HP motor. It lopes along at 850 RPM and puts out a solid 22 CFM at 150 psi.... and would do it 24/7 if I wanted it to. It's a bruiser of a machine though. Just the air-end weighs about 250 lbs. Cast iron and all that. The drive motor and the tank make it a 600 lb machine... or more. To move it I have to have a friend help me dissasemble it . Anyway - I'm not sugesting you buy one of these, but it's a high-water mark to shoot for. MANY air tools require 10 CFM, and a small sand blast cabinet would easily consume all the air I can make with my 325. The vertical tank is nice from a space premium standpoint and the height would keep children's fingers away from harmful moving parts and hot metal. If I were buying a machine outright I think the Quincy QT series are priced right for the competitive consumer market. I would look at a vertical tank mounted QT-5 or QT-7.5 with either a 60 gallon or an 80 gallon tank. The QT's differ from the QR's in their valve system and their lubrication systems. Where the QR's use an oil pump and automotive style filter the QT's use a simple splash lubrication, and where the QR's use an industrial cast-iron disc valve the QT's use a reed valve system. The reed valves in the QT's don't last as long and when they go it's generally cheaper to just buy a new air-end. But the packages are nice and the quality is fine for a home shop. Don't cheap out on your filtration - getting replacement elements is difficult if you but cheap units. Wilkerson is my preference. Anyway - give me more info and I'll narrow your options. GD

Yeah - that would be the '84+ style pull-off. It's basically the same just has two pots instead of a single pot with two ports. GD

Further reading suggests I may want to check the Boost Control Solenoid. I just happen to have an extra and I think it's the low mileage one that came with the replacement engine. That's a simple drop-in and go so I'll check that tomorrow. GD

You may have to remove the EA81 head spacers on the exhaust ports to bolt up to the EA82 y-pipe. And you'll have to do all the mods I list required to fit the manifold to the EA81 and clear the distributor - turning the IAC over, etc. The lower radiator hose will be.... special. Don't know what you'll have to do but it shouldn't be hard to figure something out. And the pitching stopper may need modification/customization, ect. But pretty much that's it. Should just drop right in. GD

The SPFI will cycle the pump with the engine off if the test connectors are plugged together. Check the fuel pump relay. It will be with a set of 4 relays above the fuse box under the drivers side kick panel. GD

Cleaned the MAF tonight. Found some of the intake boot hose clamps loose. Didn't change much. The idle dropped a few hundred at first but after a drive it's back to normal. No CEL's still. The fluttering feels like it happens when the boost comes on strong. It loses power and starts missing and surging. Still have more to check but that's what I had time for tonight. So I think next I'll put a DMM on the TPS and the MAF. Anyone got the pinouts and specs for the turbo TPS and MAF? GD

That, and they run them almost flat angled. They are also longer which makes the angles shallower for any given rise in suspension. I've wheeled with my share of EA82's, and short of stuff like Scott has built (which frankly isn't an EA.... anything. You may as well call that completely custom...) the 81's do quite a bit better generally speaking. For one thing the EA81's have 2" higher ground clearance.... bone stock. Tune it up and you should be fine with some 27" tires. Gut the exhaust and put on a cone filter with a snorkel. Should be good enough to get you in trouble. GD

That is not streetable except in a very few places around the country. The local constabulary would have a field day with a rig like that. I agree it's capable but most of us don't have the ability to trailer our machine to/from the play. You can make anything with enough welding and cutting.... but for *mostly* stock bodies the EA81 hatch is king. GD

Lack of proper PCV routing is probably causing already poor valve stem seals to suck more oil than usual as you aren't actively pulling blow-by gasses from the crankcase as you should. Valve cover breather filters are NOT a substitute for a system to remove blow-by gasses. Before PCV valves we had the road draft tube system.... just venting the valve covers is not adequate. You see them on hot-rods..... but then those are the same folks that buy edelbrock carbs which are also an abomination.... don't emulate those guys. GD

The EA82 SPFI makes fully 17 more HP than the EA81. Weber or not. My Brat with an EA82 w/SPFI from a 93 Loyale is actually nicely quick. The weight difference of the EA82 body is what will/is kill you. That and the horrible approach/departure angles. If you want to do any serious off-roading you need the EA81 hatch body. For weight, A/D angles, and wheelbase. There is little of consequence that can be removed for much weight savings. Sadly the weight is in the unibody and the glass. There is very little you can do to the engine to make more power. It's already as high compression as you can get with the head quench design and redlines at 6k. To get any real amount of power you need more fuel and more air. Start with the cams, heads, and valves - that will get you air. More fuel can be accomplished a variety of ways. You'll need to run MegaSquirt or some other stand-alone FI package to deal with the modifications. It buys you nothing but a smelly engine bay.... but yes if you cap the lines you can remove it. No. I usually get rid of them. More trouble than they are worth on the older soobs. Your emissions will go up sharply of course. NOS, Turbo, etc. Sky's the limit till you blow the heads off. Most of that stuff requires a lot of skill and knowledge to do correctly and get even 1/2 the normal life span from the thing though. Expect to run through a couple short blocks at least if you go whole-hog. Beyond forced induction or oxidizers you are pretty well stuck with 90 HP I'm afraid - unless you want to design new heads for it.... but I'm thinking probably not. GD

Yank the tranny - there's a high likelyhood that so much damage has been done to it that it's just not going to be reasonable to dump extra money at fixing small things on it and hoping it doesn't fail again. The grinding noises are bad - if it were an axle the car would still likely move... just very slowely. Also your description of it moving a few feet after letting it sit doesn't fit with an axle failure - they are 100% mechanical and nothing you could do would change how they are operating. Find a reputable mechanic and a used tranny with a warrantee. You may also have engine issues - the engine should never die with an automatic as there is no physical connection between the engine and the transmission. Terrain and transmission mishaps cannot affect the way the engine runs under normal circumstances. GD

Don't sweat the timing belt cover. Run till the belt snaps and then put the covers on when you do the belt if you are so inclined. I generally leave the covers off personally. Road debris is no concern at all. GD

Old pumps can get jammed up - smack the pump with something. That's common of all centrifugal fuel pumps. Old gas and condensate can jam them up. GD

They are availible, but unless you have machining capabilities you won't have good luck installing them. The old ones have to be reemed out and if it's not done perfectly straight you'll have major issues. GD

Yeah - I think I will do that. I wish the kid knew what pump he installed. . Pretty sure it's the Walbro that everyone reccomends for these so it should be fine but I should be sure. Should have mentioned it's got a brand new turbo-back, 3" stainless system. No cats anywhere. Pretty sure that's not me issue Will do. GD