GeneralDisorder

1. Does the gauge fall to exactly zero when powered off? It should. If it doesn't the gauge itself is adjustable but it requires dissasembly of the cluster. 2. Does the pressure decrease once the engine is warmed? It should. 3. Test the pressure with a known good mechanical gauge. Otherwise you are just guessing. 4. You should be looking to see higher than 20 psi when the engine is at temp and idling. 5. Look for it to climb to 40 or 50 psi at cruiseing RPM. 6. You should never see 75 unless something is very wrong or your gauge/sender is fubar. GD

No. Timing belts, water pump, and oil pump should cost no more than $500 to $600. About $200 in parts if you do it yourself, and an experienced mechanic can do them all in about 3 hours. That leaves you with a 91 Loyale that's got 170k on it. Not worth even close to $2000. Push-button single range is not desireable. Being a Loyale it's stripped down which makes it actually a bit less desireable than an 88 or 89 GL and there are plenty of those to be found for less with that many miles or fewer. For the money you are looking at spending, get into a 90 to 94 Legacy. 92+ if you can. I got a wagon last year for $750 with only 135k on it because it needed a water pump. Cost me $190 in parts and 2 hours to fix. More power, more reliable, and more civilized than any EA series. Pass. GD

Best place to get a water pump is anywhere that has the cheapest price on Atsugi water/oil pumps. They are the OEM supplier for Subaru. Your dealer isn't even that expensive so that's definitely an option. I find myself rarely buying parts anywhere else. www.subaruparts.com seems to be one of the cheapest online dealers around. Part number is 21110AA060 For $56 (+$9.95 shipping) I don't know why you would bother going anywhere else. GD

Fuel pump only runs when cranking. You should not jumper around the FPCU - it's a safety device to prevent you from being roasted alive in a crash. You could apply 12v directly to the pump for testing purposes though. The cam can't be off 180 unless someone dissasembled the entire engine and installed it that way. They are gear driven. You may have electrical gremlins in the fuel pump circuit but I highly doubt the FPCU is to blame. GD

Self-tapper and some silicone would be best considering it's a FUEL tank filled with volatile gasoline vapor. With the hole being on the top I wouldn't hesitate to just plug it with a screw and some sealant. GD

Try replacing the plugs and wires anyway. Even if they look ok on the outside they can still break down internally. Get both from the dealer. GD

MWE is just some guy's initials that builds axles for Subaru's. They aren't available anywhere but through him personally. EMPI makes good axles and they are inexpensive. $58 each for my hatch. Check VW aftermarket shops - they will be EMPI dealer's and can order them for you. GD

How did you check the belts? Not only can they break, but they can strip the teeth off and appear to still be intact till you try to rotate it over. Air. Fuel. Spark. You are missing one at the proper time. Suspension adjustments are on the struts if they are original. Lower perch adjustment nuts on the front, and a three-position notch arrangement on the rear coil-over-shock tubes. GD

Should fit fine, yes. GD

I beleive that is correct. And we never got the EA81 TW. GD

They aren't all that uncommon. I've seen more than a dozen over the years. Even worked on a few. Stick around with the community long enough, search craigslist, etc and you'll find one eventually. Why do you want one so badly? It's just a raised roof. Outback's and '94 GT's also have the touring roof and have a much better drivetrain. GD

Likely' date=' yes. No problem. GD

There may be some locals around the Seattle area that can help you in person. With the lift as part of the equation it's rather difficult to say what might have happened. It does sound like the axle came apart at the inner joint. Read my write up on rear axles - that will give you an idea of how the inner joint is put together and how to repair it. The inner front joint is the same as both rear joints with respect to how it's assembled/dissasembled. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

Most of the time I would agree with using a torque wrench. But in this case emperical evidence sugests that it's REALLY freakin hard to break anything in there, and the axle nut can handle more than most people can throw at it. I use a 4 foot cheater and go as tight as my 225 lbs can go. I've never had a failure of any kind and you aren't going to warp the cast iron hub unless you are on PCP. The same 36mm is used on VW rear axle nut's and they are spec'ed at 250 Ft/lbs. GD

The axle is seperate from the stub, which is what joins with the bearings in the knuckle. You use a 3/16" pin punch to remove the roll pin that holds the axle to the stub. They can be VERY difficult to remove from the stub. It's just like the splined connection on the front inner DOJ at the transmission. But the rear interface tends to rust in place and they can be almost impossible to seperate at times. They sometimes require an oxy-torch to get them moving. Also the bearings will be totally destroyed removing them from the swing arm. And if that isn't enough, you need a special subaru specific pin socket to remove the ring nut that holds them in. For all these reasons I sugest you pull an entire swing arm assembly complete with rear axle and replace the whole thing. Then you only need to disconnect the strut, swing arm, and pull the axle off the diff (usually much easier than the bearing end as it's higher and out of the road spray). You can keep your brakes if you can get them off in one piece but it would be easier to just use the junk yard brakes as well. Make sure you find one that the drum easily comes off and replace the shoes/clean it up before you use it. Then just bleed that wheel after you connect the brake line. GD

It's probably the gauge contacts on the PCB at the back of the cluster, or it's grounding issues to the gauge. Check the voltage at the main junction (the fusible links) and see if the gauge is accurate. At 8 volts I gaurantee you would be dischaging the battery and the charge indicator lamp would come on to show there is more voltage present at the battery than the alt is producing. What you have is guage issues - almost certainly related to corrosion somewhere along the line. The relays on the strut tower are for the AC. They have nothing to do with your problem. GD

Tried to PM you about a J.O.B. but your box was full. I emailed but perhaps it's not your current address? Anyway. Clean your box or check you mail. GD

EGR light means nothing. That's mileage tripped. Feedback would have an ECS light or a "Check Engine Lamp" (CEL). GD

You would need a cross-member from an EA81 Turbo to clear the up-pipe. Fuel system would have to be changed as well. GD

Yeah - on a big turbo (for the engine size) you can do that. With the VF11 on the 22T it spools if a fly lands on your foot. Hell the thing will spool all by itself when the cruise control starts pulling a hill GD

No boost means no boost enrichment. Heh. GD

Only six? Jeez I can't even count how many I've seen. Maybe a couple dozen by now. There was at least two just at the WCSS this year. GD

Just post in the wanted section for one. Someone can grab you one at a rust-free yard and you'll get what you need at a price you can afford. A pan wouldn't be more than $10 at any yard around here. GD

Yeah - you need some dry-sweep action but otherwise you're looking good. It's a common mistake with the junk yards on those stubs. Most other makes the stub is part of the axle and is male so it's pretty common to see that removal method actually. GD