GeneralDisorder

I beleive that is correct. And we never got the EA81 TW. GD

They aren't all that uncommon. I've seen more than a dozen over the years. Even worked on a few. Stick around with the community long enough, search craigslist, etc and you'll find one eventually. Why do you want one so badly? It's just a raised roof. Outback's and '94 GT's also have the touring roof and have a much better drivetrain. GD

Likely' date=' yes. No problem. GD

There may be some locals around the Seattle area that can help you in person. With the lift as part of the equation it's rather difficult to say what might have happened. It does sound like the axle came apart at the inner joint. Read my write up on rear axles - that will give you an idea of how the inner joint is put together and how to repair it. The inner front joint is the same as both rear joints with respect to how it's assembled/dissasembled. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

Most of the time I would agree with using a torque wrench. But in this case emperical evidence sugests that it's REALLY freakin hard to break anything in there, and the axle nut can handle more than most people can throw at it. I use a 4 foot cheater and go as tight as my 225 lbs can go. I've never had a failure of any kind and you aren't going to warp the cast iron hub unless you are on PCP. The same 36mm is used on VW rear axle nut's and they are spec'ed at 250 Ft/lbs. GD

The axle is seperate from the stub, which is what joins with the bearings in the knuckle. You use a 3/16" pin punch to remove the roll pin that holds the axle to the stub. They can be VERY difficult to remove from the stub. It's just like the splined connection on the front inner DOJ at the transmission. But the rear interface tends to rust in place and they can be almost impossible to seperate at times. They sometimes require an oxy-torch to get them moving. Also the bearings will be totally destroyed removing them from the swing arm. And if that isn't enough, you need a special subaru specific pin socket to remove the ring nut that holds them in. For all these reasons I sugest you pull an entire swing arm assembly complete with rear axle and replace the whole thing. Then you only need to disconnect the strut, swing arm, and pull the axle off the diff (usually much easier than the bearing end as it's higher and out of the road spray). You can keep your brakes if you can get them off in one piece but it would be easier to just use the junk yard brakes as well. Make sure you find one that the drum easily comes off and replace the shoes/clean it up before you use it. Then just bleed that wheel after you connect the brake line. GD

It's probably the gauge contacts on the PCB at the back of the cluster, or it's grounding issues to the gauge. Check the voltage at the main junction (the fusible links) and see if the gauge is accurate. At 8 volts I gaurantee you would be dischaging the battery and the charge indicator lamp would come on to show there is more voltage present at the battery than the alt is producing. What you have is guage issues - almost certainly related to corrosion somewhere along the line. The relays on the strut tower are for the AC. They have nothing to do with your problem. GD

Tried to PM you about a J.O.B. but your box was full. I emailed but perhaps it's not your current address? Anyway. Clean your box or check you mail. GD

EGR light means nothing. That's mileage tripped. Feedback would have an ECS light or a "Check Engine Lamp" (CEL). GD

You would need a cross-member from an EA81 Turbo to clear the up-pipe. Fuel system would have to be changed as well. GD

Yeah - on a big turbo (for the engine size) you can do that. With the VF11 on the 22T it spools if a fly lands on your foot. Hell the thing will spool all by itself when the cruise control starts pulling a hill GD

No boost means no boost enrichment. Heh. GD

Only six? Jeez I can't even count how many I've seen. Maybe a couple dozen by now. There was at least two just at the WCSS this year. GD

Just post in the wanted section for one. Someone can grab you one at a rust-free yard and you'll get what you need at a price you can afford. A pan wouldn't be more than $10 at any yard around here. GD

Yeah - you need some dry-sweep action but otherwise you're looking good. It's a common mistake with the junk yards on those stubs. Most other makes the stub is part of the axle and is male so it's pretty common to see that removal method actually. GD

The FSM calls for kerosene (as a lubricant) and cording. The procedure is fairly simple and I know of several on this board have succesfully done it. All makes and models are not the same with respect to this type of thing and your fathers experience may not be applicable. The Subaru windsheilds are pretty stout and it takes some abuse to crack one. I wouldn't attempt a newer model glue-in style myself, but I also wouldn't trust a shop to do the older style pop-in correctly or completely. The knowledge on how to do them has largely not been passed down to the people in the glass industry and they are likely to do a horrible job and leave it leaky, or try to glue it in instead of using the proper gasket. You have been warned. I've seen what those shops do. It's not pretty on the EA81's when they try to bypass the gasket and glue it in instead. GD

Actually you are probably better off doing it yourself on the EA81's. You use kerosene and twine to pull the windsheild into the rubber gasket. Expect to spend about $150 on the windsheild and another $120 or so on a new gasket as the old one will be basically completely destroyed removing it. Best to do it yourself as no special tools are required beyond a friend to help you out, and you can prep the crimp joint around the window with any sanding/painting you may need in order to prevent future leaks and rust. GD

Turbo's are not known for their mileage. I get about 19 in town on my SS. About 25 on the freeway. Even the brand new STi's are rated at 17 in the city GD

100% accurate. Although I do like to drive something that doesn't draw the attention of the local constabulary. But that doesn't require "complete restoration" by any stretch. GD

The charcoal canistor is supposed to be replaced on a regular maintenance interval - I can't remember exactly but I think it's 50k miles. No one ever does it though. But that doesn't sound like what you are asking about anyway. GD

As far as I know, in the rear it's best to use an XT6 or RX swaybar. I don't recall anyone having used a WRX one due to the differences in the suspension design. GD

I'm just cautious with stuff like that. I won't raise the boost on my SS even 1 pound till I have everything in place for complete monitoring. It's not that the EA82T with a carb short block *requires* these things, it's more that we have all seen the results of poorly planned and modded EA82T block swaps on this board. The vehicle is old, and the parts are used. Just a single poorly performing injector could wipe out a lot of time and effort by runnning lean in a cyinder. Not to mention the car he's talking about has a blown EA82T - why did that happen? It's impossible to say. All I'm saying is that without the additional monitoring gear you are taking taking a big risk doing something like this. If the vehicle was brand new and you were installing a new carb short block on an engine with 0 miles then it wouldn't be nearly as risky. But you are putting a carbed short block into a car that already ATE a turbo short block. I don't think that's a good idea without a lot of investment in new parts and a comprehensive monitoring system so you can avoid a tragic waste of time. GD

NEVER restore the vehicle you are driving. That's a universal and many (including myself) have found it out the hard way. Buy a legacy. Restore the GL at your leisure. That's if you want to do it. I would reccomend against restoreing an 80's station wagon that's worth less than the shirt off your back. Best to have seperate vehicles for each purpose if you like to wrench. I have the sporty driver that's "nice" to ferry around the GF. I have the off-road toy that's a dismal mess, always dirty, and often broken. I have the resoration project. And I have lots of parts, more projects than fingers & toes, and (obviously) a serious lack of sanity GD

Yes - you can do it. Just don't get crazy with the boost. It is also very important when considering something like this to plan for all the accesories you will need to add. Obviously the stock boost level will have to be reduced so there's that stuff, and the engine monitoring needs to be.... I would say upgraded but the stock dash doesn't have much to offer so I'll say you NEED monitoring equipment. Wideband, EGT, Boost gauge, etc, etc. Also the installation of an intercooler would be almost required to have any hope of keeping the block in one peice for long. Of course you can do it - but the amount of money you have to throw at it to do it reliably and with "peice of mind" is more than what you will get out of it in the end IMO. That is just my opinion though, and I firmly beleive that all forms of the EA82 are dead ends. With the EJ22 so cheap, so increddibly reliable, and adaptor plates now availible from many sources for cheap, etc, etc. There just isn't a place in the Subaru world for the EA82's, other than as a museum peice, for those seriously interested in power, reliability, and econemy. I'm not dogging the EA82 - and there are plenty of them out there that will continue to serve folks well for another decade or two. But for all the people that are interested in doing something other than stock with their EA82 bodied cars it's going to be EJ or nothing very shortly. You should have seen all the EJ'd cars at the WCSS this year! Hell I bought a CNC'd adaptor plate for $100. For $250 I can have a used EJ22 locally off a shelf with a warantee! GD

You have to understand that making a blanket statement like that isn't applicable when talking about vehicles this old. If you were to replace every component of your brakeing system with brand new parts, you are looking at several THOUSAND dollars. From the booster, master cylinder, reservoir, and hill-holder, to the soft lines, calipers, pads, ect, ect. There simply is no reason for this. Calipers can easily be rebuilt and will perform just like new. Backing plates, slide pins, and caliper brackets etc are not wear items. The Brake booster's and master cylinders rarely fail. Modern braking systems use dual-circuit design's. If a single component fails the other circuit will still operate one front and one rear wheel. Complete brake failures on anything built after 1950 is almost unheard of. Replacing the pads and rotors, and rebuilding the calipers on the bench is more than adequate. Replacing soft lines isn't a bad idea but those are cheap. Adding rear disc brakes from an EA82 turbo vehicle using junk yard parts is no different. You use new pads and rotors and you rebuild the calipers with a new o-ring and boot. Rear brakes do only 20% of the brakeing and the main advantage of rear discs is that they never need to be adjusted. IF you could even get the parts from the dealership, they would likely cost more than you car is worth. Just because it's called a "junk" yard doesn't mean it's junk. The parts we would need have no moving parts and should last the life of several vehicles if they ever wore out at all. New tie rod ends and a urethane rag joint would be my sugestion. The rack, power steering pump, lines, and steering column are not wear items and should never require replacement. Again those items would cost more than the car. That's understandable. I don't find I have much use for a horn myself, but it's a personal thing I think. I just highly doubt you'll notice any difference. It's a 4WD and the suspension is stiff. Struts aren't going to change that. They only dampen the suspension, they won't change how it feels unless there is considereable bounce or rocking. Understandable then. That's a vacuum valve for the carb metering ports. It goes by-by with a Weber. You're talking about more than the car is worth again. There are 16 dozen parts inside that dash and if you replace them all it's going to be a kings ransom and most of them would never fail if you drove the car another million miles. Likely many of the components are unavailible and replacing them with used one's wouldn't do any good unless they aren't working. If there is a specific symptom you want repaired then that is different. You are talking about rebuilding the car from scratch and that just isn't feasible - you simply won't find anyone willing to do it for a price you'll like. Electrical is no problem. I have wireing diagrams, a DMM, and I'm not afraid to use it. I think that's your first step then. Order a Weber kit for the EA82. They run about $350 - $400. Discount Import Parts can order you one. http://www.discountimportparts.com/ Sounds good. I will say though, that the things you want to do, and the amount of money you will have to spend - you can get a nice 1st gen Legacy for about $2000 and never have to worry about most of this stuff. And we haven't even talked about the mechanical stuff that you aren't familair with yet - the EA82 has a voracious appetite for timing belts, and then there's the water pump, oil pump, and various other seals and gaskets that should be done by this age. For half what it's going to cost to fix your '86 you could have a nice 93 or 94, do some regular maintenance, and drive another 100,000 miles without a care in the world. GD