GeneralDisorder

The valve is generally part of the hose. Most of that estimate is labor. At shop rates you can easily eat up a LOT of time of a refrigeration tech - they have to evac the system, replace the hose, probably replace the drier as well, then pull it down with a vacuum pump, charge it with nitrogen, check for leaks, then do it again and charge it with R134. It's virtually all labor and it has to be done by someone with a certification. It just plain isn't cheap. It's actually pretty simple stuff though and if you rent a recovery unit and a vacuum pump you could do it yourself pretty easily with just some reading on the subject. GD

Unthread the pipe from the body of the valve and drop your quarter in the valve body. Then tighten the pipe back on. You can then pull the rubber hose off. As to it not being operational - it *can* be if you just put a small filter on the end of that hose instead of blocking it with a quarter. Use the stock silencer if you want to quiet it down. GD

Huh? The EA81 choke's are electric - they don't have a "sender" so I'm not sure what you are referring to. GD

They aren't ball bearings - they are timken style tapered roller bearings. I don't have the numbers but there are two different styles for 4WD - old and new. For 2WD they are entirely different. GD

Any good locksmith can have those made in a few minutes. Should cost less than $50. GD

Yes - but those are newer than the original poster was looking at. GD

Pull the door panel - takes like 5 minutes. You just use a large flat blade screwdriver under each of the tabs and you won't break them. GD

Then either the rings haven't properly seated, or the hone job was crap. Were chrome rings used? It can take 10,000 miles for them to properly seat. 600 miles is nothing - I wouldn't be taking any readings till I ran that thing at 3k on the freeway for a couple hours. And you better be changing the oil pretty soon. The first 1000 miles there's a ton of metal going to need to come out. GD

From what I know both were 7.7:1 so they shouldn't have. The EJ22T is 8.0:1 for comparison. So it shouldn't be much lower in comp. numbers. As I said though - it's a lot more important that they are even than it is for them to be high. Anything over 100 should run without any problems. Remember that the engine runs at a minimum of 700 RPM's. At speed the small leaks you are experiencing that bring your numbers down to 100 are going to be insignificant. It is a good indicator of general ring and valve sealing though so I wouldn't be boosting that engine to moon without a full overhaul - if the rings leak a bit you can collapse ring lands with too much boost. GD

That's a bit low, but as long as they are even it should be fine. I don't have numbers for an EA82T but for the EJ22T the comp. is listed at about 140 psi. EA82T's are lower compression though so I would assume around 120 to 130 would be ideal. You are doing the test with the throttle wide open right? Fuel pump disconnected? GD

Ah! In the correct forum. Wonderful. Contact Zefy (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=3164) He works for Rack Attack and will know anything and everything there is about what you desire. GD

Posting this in the new gen forum would be a great start. GD

Did you replace them or just check that they are there? I ask because I had a hesitation problem on an SPFI motor that was due to loose belts. I tried everything under the sun and it never got fixed till one day the passenger side belt broke and after I replaced them it runs like a new engine. It's starting to sound like this could be a wiring issue. With the XT's having the ECU in the trunk you may be running into the "corroded-wireing-under-the-carpet" bug that some folks have seen. With all the time you have already invested it might be wise to just lay eyes on every inch of sensor/ECU harness - especially those parts that are under carpet or door sill plastic. The only thing I can think of that would cause your complete power loss and not set off a code at the ECU would be complete power loss to the ECU itself. I would consider running some LED's off the power supply pins of the ECU itself and put them where you can see them just to verify that you aren't losing power to the ECU and thus shutting down the injectors, coil, or fuel pump. GD

Sounds like a blown-out exhaust gasket to me. Having the muffler done wouldn't make any difference - in fact having it done so recently might have *caused* the blow-out due to jostling of the exhaust when they installed it and additional back-pressure from replaceing the old one that I assume had holes or other serious issues. They also may not have used the correct gaskets on the muffler-to-midpipe flange. If you don't use gaskets that have the metal sealing ring on the ID they will blow out quickly. GD

You do NOT want alloys or mags off-road. If you smack one on a rock you will crack them and they are not repairable in the field. A steel you can smack with a hammer and get to hold the bead again - not so with a mag. Best case you have to replace an expensive mag - worst case it fails catastrophically on the trip back from the trails. GD

Absolutely! The low-end torque increase is the biggest difference. Since both barrels of the Weber snap open when you go to WOT instead of the secondary lazily catching up as the engine begins to rev you get more air at lower RPM and that increases torque. Which is what's it's all about off-road. SPFI does the same thing since it's just one big butterfly. The other reason for the Weber is that it eliminates the additional metering ports of the Hitachi system. The Hitachi's have about twice as many "systems" on them that are supposed to help with driveability and with economy. Unfortunately many of them are not working by this age and the cost to repair them and the complexity of interfacing them with intake mods you may consider in the future (snorkel, etc) makes them a bear to work with. They don't respond well to modifications and you can't just rejet them as they are designed to be fed by the metering ports which require engine demand driven vacuum valves that are external to the carb. GD

Probably not as common in CO as they are here in OR but that reminds me of the '85 sedan I got out of a guy's yard for $100. Silver but otherwise identical to that - down to the totally mashed up windsheild, airbox full of oil, crappy exhaust, torn up back seat, and 5 speed D/R. I Weber'ed it and drove it for about 30k miles and then traded it for my '83 hatch - the chick got rear ended in it a week later and I got my Weber back and put it on the hatch Kinda sad though - I had done a lot of work to it including pulling out the dash for a heater core replacement, head gaskets, timing belt, ect, ect. Keep it - the sedan's are somewhat rare with the D/R. I see very few of them. If I were you though - if you plan on lifting it I would put in either an EA81 or an EJ22. When you are in the woods you don't want the EA82 giving you the trouble they are renown for. GD

As someone that works on german stuff most days of the week - I can say that their tendancy to overcomplicate everything, and change things at their factories on a weekly basis makes them poor choices to put into anything you intend to rely on. Audi makes a very mean AWD sports car these days - just make sure you have your AAA membership payed up and the title to you domicile ready to sign over when you need parts - god forbid if they have to come from Germany because they are out of stock or simply not stocked here at all. I can have two seemingly identical machines sitting on my bench - both bought at the same time by the same customer. But if I tear them down they likely won't be the same inside . Then trying to get the *right* parts, and the correct drawings.... I have had to have emails from Germany sent out for translation so I could figure out what kind of loctite I needed GD

I can see the confusion, yes. Main bearings and rod bearings are not of the type which I was speaking. They are actually not really bearings at all - they are bushings in the strictest sense of how they are designed. But they do "bear" the load of the rotating mass so I suppose it depends on how you define it all.... but I digress. Yes it's a relatively easy fix - but be aware that if it's a tensioner or idler bearing and it fails before you get it fixed you will likely be looking at internal engine damage. All incarnations of the 2.5 are interferance. GD

I won't argue the point of this "square" thing you are speaking of as I haven't seen it, but aren't most of the new Subaru's with the exception of the STi's made in Indiana now? GD

Yep - you just have to look till you find them I guess - and know that they are the same of course. In depth knowledge of the entire Subaru line is helpful when looking for parts in general. Their database is silly though. And they list the one's Hatchsub posted in that ebay auction - I have parted out and worked on DOZENS of EA81's and EA82's and that weird looking thing was never in any of them. I don't know what that's for but it's not a Subaru. GD

Since none of the aftermarket manual's seem to match those deck's, I made a cheat sheet for them when I put one in last. I have a few for extra rigs.... which I always seem to aquire with no stereo and the wires cut back to where there's .05mm left poking out from behind the nether regions of the dash Blue - Switched 12v Red - Constant 12v Black - Radio Ground Yellow - Illumination Ground Orange - Illumination 12v (dash dimmer) Grey - Right Front Pos. Grey/Red - Right Rear Pos. Grey/Black - Right Neg. Green - Left Front Pos. Green/Red - Left Rear Pos. Green/Black - Left Neg. White - Power Antenna GD

That's true, but I use them as a gauge telling that I am being sold the correct part for a 4WD application. I leave them all the way down because jacking the height up blows the camber away and makes the front end stiffer - which you don't want off-road. You want the wheels to articulate so softer and slower is better. Extra shocks are the ticket to prevent bending the piss out of the strut tubes - don't ask how I know this GD

Not adjustable Rob. Agreed they are nice, but they are the same as the one's KYB sells for 2WD applications. They will lower the front a bit and aren't adjustable. I had a set a long time ago and found this out the hard way. GD

1984->Brat GL->Engine->Motor Mount Beck-Arnley - "wholesaler closeout" - $18.50 each. Do a google search for rockauto discount codes - they email you one after each order and it's good for a few percent off for like 30 days. Lots of people post them online as RA tells you to share the code with friends. GD