GeneralDisorder

Does the valve close if you rotate the engine over? Otherwise, no - there is no additive that is going to fix that. It could be a stuck lifter or a more severe mechanical problem. You'll have to pull the cam case to inspect it. GD

I had a D/R 4 speed from an 81 Brat - installed it into an 82 Brat. It was a side mount starter. The 4WD shifter ball-joint has to be turned 90 degrees because of the linkage differences but other than that they are identical transmissions. Unless you can show difinitive proof of an EA81 with a top-mount starter I for one can't beleive it to exist. GD

I do not beleive that is the case. The 81 GL Brat also had the dual-range and is the same physical transmission as the 81 GL wagon. It should have a side-mounted starter. As far as I know, no EA81 ever came with a top-mount. GD

I must point out that the RX's FT4WD is NOT the same as later AWD transmissions. The FT4WD has a center differential (that is lockable), while the AWD transmissions have a viscous clutch pack instead. The VC allows some transfer of power (it's a form of "limited slip device") even if a single wheel is off the ground - the FT4WD's do not unless you lock the diff or have an LSD in the rear. The RS was a stop-gap solution to not having any sporty offerings between the demise of the RX and the introduction of the Legacy Sport Sedan in '91 (my car ). Unfortunately they were rather stripped down. If you are looking for a hot-rod, sell the RS and get something with an EJ series turbo engine of some flavor. The EA82 is a poor choice for a lot of reasons - do some searching and you'll get aquainted with them. As far as the LSD's go (the clutch pack units from the 80's). They are mildly better than an open diff for light duty stuff. If you are into anything hardcore they won't cut it. I went welded on my lifted rigs years ago and it's 10x better than an LSD and 50x better than open. GD

That's true but the SPFI could care less about the cat - and the O2, while potentially causing an emissions failure if not replaced every 100,000 miles or so (a massive $20 fix!), will not strand you somewhere if it isn't working. You can disconnect it and about all that will happen is your cruise mileage (freeway, etc) will go in the crapper. It will still run just fine as the O2 is not used for except for idle and cruise. It is not used for acceleration or WOT operation - it isn't used when any mixture other than stoich is required. GD

N/A MAF will not work. Wrong output voltages. The knock sensor is probably bad regardless of what it looks like. Mine didn't look bad either.... drop the $50 on a new one. Clean the MAF with some electrical contact cleaner. The wires get dirty. GD

A box wrench is the easiest way to get to the bottom nut. A sugestion for next time perhaps. GD

Same engine, so it would swap no problem. Everything else on the car is worthless to you though. The 81 GL Brat was an odd beast having the body of the Gen 1 and the drivetrain of the Gen 2. GD

The O2 on the SPFI's does not require a cat. It's before the cat and is only used for mixture control, not to check the effeciency of the cat as in newer forms of FI. My SPFI converted Brat has no cat - I cut it open and gutted it then welded it back up. You drill a hole and weld in a nut to screw the O2 into. Takes 10 minutes. I think you are under the impression that the O2 is for emissions purposes - that is not correct. The O2 is used to fine tune the cruise mixture for optimum economy. It is not an emissions testing device. Generally on newer rigs they will use a secondary O2 sensor to determine the effeciency of the cat. That can almost always be deafeated by adding a spark-plug defouler between the exhaust and the sensor so as to pull it back out of the exhaust stream a ways. But that's academic as the SPFI uses only the simple single O2 system. MS can run the SPFI, but for most purpose the stock ECU is fine - not to mention cheap. EGR can be left alone. The SPFI has a solenoid for it, but otherwise cannot sense what it's doing. Leaving the solenoid hooked up will prevent a CEL but replacing it with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor will do the same thing. The ECU is dumb on the subject of the EGR and Purge solenoids. It mearly wishes to see a resistance - it cannot tell if they are working and doesn't care anyway. GD

That's what he said. There were no 2WD GL 4 speed's so that is implied in the statement. The 2WD's were 5 speed's in GL trim - only in STD trim were the FWD's equipped with 4 speed's. GD

The one thing you failed to realize though is that all these problems you have pointed out are a result of poor design and the government stepping in to mandate higher complexity. The drawbacks you give are not inherently problems with FI, they are problems with the fuel injection that YOU have worked on and have experience with. I will not argue that the modern FI systems are replete with obfuscated components and systems designed only to keep the bunny-huggers at bay rather than to actually make it run any better. One of the big differences with the SPFI is that it was a very early FI system and by virtue of the very nature of FI in general it was far more accurate and economical than any carb - thus the complexity of the modern systems was not needed for it to outshine it's rivals of the period. There is no OBD - no scanners required - it's computer has a self-diagnostic mode. There are no additional parts beyond what is absolutely needed (no special emissions systems were equipped), and the 4 components that could cause you a problem are all easily carried in the same size box that your spare carb would be carried in. It's a matter of what you like. Carbs have their place too. I have two rigs I drive regularly - an 83 hatch with a DGV, and a 91 SS with a turbo MPFI system (also early, and without the modern extraneous paraphenalia). The driveability of the hatch is not as good..... to say the least And if your Hitachi gets 15 MPG..... I would say there's a good chance you have other issues. Have you checked your compression? GD

Unlikely that you'll find any - no one in this community runs the DGAS - no one that has any carb tuning experience anyway. You'll have quite the fun time learning with it and messing with air correctors and emulsion tubes, I can tell you that. I've been closely involved with tuning a DGV on a 1.3L Samuri engine with a custom VF11 blow-through install. Emulsion tubes are like black magic - the art of tuning this stuff died with the engineer's that designed them. The good news is that there are many arcane volumes availible on the used book shelves that yeild a wealth of information if you bother to blow the dust off. As far as the FI - there's very little to go wrong with the SPFI setup. It's just a matter of if you like troubleshooting with a screwdriver and investigative mechanicing or with a DMM. Fortunately I am handy with both. There are reasons to prefer either but thankfully I don't go to 3rd world countries where the virtues of an all-mechanical system would be applicable due to the availible technology level. GD

Yeah - too bad I wasn't online for a while or I could have told you that. You need 4WD EA81 front axles and legacy DOJ's. I beleive there is a combination that does not require the rockford part though. IIRC it involves the early legacy turbo DOJ. GD

Donor car would be best. You will need everything aft of the engine as well as the exhaust and fuel tank. Swap the parts over and hit the road. There will be some clearance issues with the transmissions tunnel and the shifter hole in the floor-pan. You will have to either cut out a section and weld a patch in to enlarge it or bash it out with a big hammer. GD

He's a salesman - what do you want? They provide better low-end torque on a stock engine. Beyond that they really do nothing at all on the high end because no changes in the mechanicals have been realized with only a carb swap. Mostly they rely on the fact that the carb is both new, and that people who are using them are more likely to "enjoy" the progressive linkage's jumpy nature as opposed to a worn-out carb with a vacuum secondary that may or may not be working. Seat of the pants it feels more "sporty" and more responsive, and the low-end improves due to the larger barrel sizes. But that real performance numbers don't change in any appreciable way. SPFI is just as good and has better driveability characteristics. GD

All 4WD GL's were dual range unless it's an automatic. DL's were single range and STD's were single range. Sounds like a good deal. That's what I paid for mine with similar mileage. If the maintenance has been so-so you will probably end up rebuilding the engine soon with the mileage that high. The oil pump's need replacing about every 100k and that almost certainly hasn't been done. The 4 speed's lose the 3rd gear syncro at around that mileage as well. Likely you'll want to look for a 5 speed to install. Rear hatch pop-out window latches are almost always broken and are difficult to find and no longer availible through Subaru. If it has a good set clean the window seals so you get a water-tight seal and NEVER OPEN those latches again. Basically that's a good deal for the body so anything beyond that is a plus. A premium condition low-mileage hatch can easily fetch $1200 or more so $250 for a good body is a great deal. You'll likely have to do a bit of work to make it a reliable daily or off-roader, but that's the price you pay for 23 year old Subaru's. Count on axles and probably bearings, u-joints, engine work, and putting on a Weber or SPFI as the stock carbs are junk. GD

Also cute - comming from guy with 20 posts. GD

What he said ^ I'll also add that EA82's aren't Porsche's.... and never will be. It's a 90 HP economy car. Treat it as such and you'll be much better off (so will your wallet). GD

I have rebuilt half a dozen Hitachi's, but I don't have one handy right now to take dimensions off that bolt.... To what end do you need these dimensions? Sounds like it's a special part (being hollow) and should probably be replaced with a like component (junkyard or dealer). Also - what is the purpose behind rebuilding the Hitachi? The kit's availible out there contain largely inferior components and the carbs are WAY more trouble than they are worth with all the extra systems they employ for driveability and economy. A Weber or SPFI is really the best treatment for a severe case of hitachitis. GD

You don't need better/larger brakes, you need to learn to compression brake. SHIFT DOWN. drilled/slotted/etc rotors and expensive pads are ludicrous for a 90 HP Loyale. Wake up man. GD

Hopefully someone already swapped the air-struts for regulars. If they haven't then you'll have to do that. The air-stut systems were garbage and all of them failed in short order. Just as your's surely has or did. Thus the flashing light. The EA82T is not known for it's reliablility - they have issues with overheating, holding head gaskets, and cracking heads. If you keep up on the maintenance they aren't too bad for a seasoned Subaru enthusiast (know's the warning signs, pitfalls, preventative maintenance, and has maintained/modded them) - alas most people's introduction to the woe's of the EA82T is when something breaks - usually with bad results. There are comparitively few of them still on the road when you consider the numbers of EA82's still out there. Most are non-turbo for reasons that you will learn about if you keep it and stick around here. If you intend to keep it on the road you are best served by doing a major maintenance interval as soon as possible - timing belts/tensioners/idler, front seals, oil pump, water pump, accesory belts and ALL the cooling system hoses. Replacing the radiator with a two-row would be an excelent idea. The rule with the EA82T's - first time it overheats is the last time until you pull the heads. As far as modding them - just don't. It's a money pit that's better read about in prior threads on this board than experienced first hand. If you want more power get a non-turbo EJ22. If you want a turbo you can mod get a used EJ22T or a WRX front clip. It will cost less and make more power with no mods than the EA82T will ever make. GD

Yeah - I'm sure 30 amps would be more than sufficient. GD

Don't mess with the thermostat - obviously it's opening if the engine stays cool on a 20 minute drive. Your problem is the fan thermo-switch. Get a new one or hard wire the fan to 12v. GD

Turbo exhaust systems are an entirely different animal and you'll need a new engine cross-member before you go adding a turbo. GD

Just wire the existing thermoswitch to control your relay ground and run both fans from the new relay. No ECU hacking required and I don't beleive there are any ECU outputs that would be useful.... in fact I don't think there are really any ECU outputs other than diagnostics on the EA82's. GD