GeneralDisorder

EGR solenoid does nothing but generate a code 34. You can wire in a 5 watt, 33 Ohm resistor to simulate the solenoid. Either way - code or not - your bogging problem is not related and will not be fixed by replaceing the solenoid or tricking the computer. You have other issues. Run a D-Check. GD

Yes - weld a nut on them. Spray them with penetrant while still hot Then let them cool for a minute or two before turning them. It may take 5 or 10 tries but it will come out - carefully work them back and forth and don't give up when the first 6 nuts snap off. The heating and cooling action helps break them loose. This method rarely fails - I've used it to remove broken turbo flange studs on many 20+ year old OEM peices. GD

If you can't afford a lift then you likely can't afford to build one either unless you have access to at least a bandsaw, drill press, and skill with a welder. Just the proper metric hardware to bolt things together will run you about $50 to $100 depending on how you do it. And 2" is pretty worthless unless you are just doing it for looks. It takes no more skill and maybe an extra $25 in materials to do a proper 5"/4" - which is needed to run any serious tires. EA82's really aren't well suited to lifting without quite a few modifications anyway. Too heavy for one. GD

Oh please - weld some nuts to the remainder of the bolts and turn them out. Big deal. DO NOT drill - DO NOT use an easy out. You will regret it. Those are last resort options. If you can't handle a broken bolt then you shouldn't be installing an engine - let alone an EA82T. GD

Because you asked, and no one answered the question properly - to check timing on the engine without it running you set the flywheel to the desired timing (8 degrees BTDC in the case of the EA81's), and then you verify that the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower. I have never been more than 1 degree off by "eyeball" method. Incidentally the plug wires can be hooked up in 4 different, yet all correct, ways. It matters only that they proceed counter-clockwise from whichever you chose as #1 in the order 1,3,2,4. GD

None of the emissions equipment is power related. If it's working incorrectly it may cause drivability issues but it will not increase the power any significant amount. Hollowing out the cat is effective if it's clogged but the muffler you simply replace. I often remove the guts from the cat's because they break apart and rattle. GD

Impossible is a real strong word. In fact RAM engines makes an EA81 that does 140 HP, and a superchaged version that makes 200 HP. You wouldn't like the price tag. Agreed - EJ swap is the way to go unless you need pushrod reliability to prevent using the parachute. GD

AWD transmissions generally ARE single range. Unless you get a european dual range AWD. Never produced them for the states though. Gear ratios are all over the map. Different years of the same transmissions had different ratio's. It's all about what the transmission came from. If you don't know exactly what it's from then the only way to check is to verify them manually or split the tranny. GD

That's because there's not many of us that pull transmissions apart. And people are going to continue using it regardless of what I or the few people that actually have some knowledge about these things say. It gives results (for a while) and like anything that gives results without any real work it's going to attract a following - like the Atkins diet. Ultimately there's no talking to people that beleive in that kind of a remedy. They have to experience it themselves. GD

Probably a bad TPS. Check it through the sweep with a DMM - might have bad spots in it. GD

Round file it and rejet the carb to non-feedback specs. GD

The coctail doesn't degrade - it seperates. And it does it every time the car sits for a few hours. Mileage doesn't matter. Ultimately it's a bad idea for quite a few reasons. I tried it, but I've now split a few transmissions and I can't say I would reccomend it or use it again myself. Most syncro problems are related to dirty, varnished brass syncro rings. The coctail masks the problem for a while but creates MUCH bigger problems. The syncro's can be cleaned and the transmission reassembled relatively easily but if you instead use the coctail the rest of the components will be worn beyond use. Run ATF through it about 3 to 5 times - leave it in for a full tank of gas each time. When it stops comming out black refill with decent synthetic such as valvoline. Other than that, you can get ahold of (or make) a 35mm thin wall socket (no more than 45.5mm OD) to dissasemble the transmission and clean the synco rings by hand. This is most effective. GD

If you remove the AC, you don't need a second fan. Non-AC EA82's don't have mechanical fans. Defrost is purely mechanical - flapper doors and a heater core. The compressor runs to dry the air and to keep the oil circulated in the lines. GD

Post in the wanted forum. GD

It would fit an EA81 but not an EA82 without changing the drive gear and mounting arrangement. GD

It wouldn't take much for a motivated machinist to make it happen. Chain sprockets are readily available, and you could use a heavy grease for lube - just change the chain and sprockets more often. No one in their right mind would bother with such foolishness, but it's not particularly difficult with the right tooling. GD

You won't be racing it, and you definitely won't be racing it if it's lifted. You have to understand.... the EA82 has 90 HP. It barely has enough to pull it's hulking self up a decent mountain. Add a lift and large tires and you'll be lucky to see the needle pass 80 MPH. All that, and the Loyale isn't well suited to lifting anyway. Wheelbase is too long, wrong engine, wrong transmission, too heavy, etc, etc. Your engine needs a reseal, and your alternator is toast. Pull the engine and do a complete reseal from the head-gaskets up. Replace the alt with a decent rebuilt (bosch seem to be alright). Do yourself a favor and do the timing belts, tensioners, idler, water pump, and all coolant hoses while you are at it. Flush the heater core and radiator. You are probably looking at around $300 to $500 in parts and several weekends of labor to make it decent and reliable. The only way you'll make it fast enough to beat that vtec is with an EJ22 swap.... which you clearly aren't ready for. Nothing will make your existing engine any faster, and there's no aftermarket for your car. No race, no pimp..... just drive - got it? GD

Yards around here it's $80 plus core charge (probably another $20). And there's tons of them. GD

You can't get to the freeze plugs without removing the cam towers. Basically you aren't going to fix this problem without pulling the heads so just figure on doing a full HG job, timing belt, water pump, etc. And being a DL - your first mod should be an oil pressure gauge. And stop running that engine - you are going to destroy the bottom end. GD

Just about any fuel injection pump that mounts outside the tank will work. It has to make 21 psi - the stock SPFI pump makes 50 psi dead-head. I beleive a lot of folks have had luck with Ford F150 pumps from years that mount to the frame rail and they are reasonably priced if you want a new one. Do a search and you'll find posts detailing these. GD

The torque on these is unimportant. The retainers are o-ring sealed. 1/4" ratchet tight is sufficient. Same goes for valve covers. 3/8" ratchet tight on the cam tower. Don't go crazy with torque wrenches - they are largely uneccesary except for gaskets that need a specific amount of "crush" to be effective. Head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets are really the only place they are useful on an EA series engine. You'll drive yourself crazy torqueing stuff that doesn't need it. GD

Unfortunately not. We've already seen the demise of the EA71 due to the unavailibility of head gaskets. The EA81 oil pumps are almost impossible to get now. Most other parts aren't far behind. Even the aircraft guys have largely moved to the EJ engines. GD

Less actually - the spider intake added some. The first MPFI non-turbo's were 95....back in '85. By the later 80's they had them up to 100 HP with the spider intake and some other changes. It may not sound like much but there are several factors here: 1. The EA82T has a 7.7:1 comp. ratio. It's power level without the turbo is probably around 60 HP. 2. The turbo is small - designed to spool rapidly and mask the otherwise poor performance of the engine. It's also supposed to drive like an N/A - turbo spools quick for torque down low. 3. Small turbo means it makes less CFM and has to spin much, much faster to make large amounts of boost. Thus the factory boost level of around 6 pounds. 4. Rough numbers, every pound of forced induction above atmospheric is equivelent to about 10 HP. So if you put on a larger turbo, boost to 11 or 12 pounds, deal with fuel cut, and get the fuel it would need, proper exhaust, etc - you could make 150+ HP.... till you collapse ring lands, blow holes in the pistons, blow the head gaskets out, crack the heads, or any number of other failures common to overboosted EA82T's. GD

Yes - replace the thermostat with one from the dealer. Aftermarket are inferior in quality. You should double check the accuracy of the dash gauge before you do anything else though. They are not accurate. GD

XT's came with what you are looking at - MPFI non-turbo with dual-port heads. They had 95 HP. GD