GeneralDisorder

Probably a bad TPS. Check it through the sweep with a DMM - might have bad spots in it. GD

Round file it and rejet the carb to non-feedback specs. GD

The coctail doesn't degrade - it seperates. And it does it every time the car sits for a few hours. Mileage doesn't matter. Ultimately it's a bad idea for quite a few reasons. I tried it, but I've now split a few transmissions and I can't say I would reccomend it or use it again myself. Most syncro problems are related to dirty, varnished brass syncro rings. The coctail masks the problem for a while but creates MUCH bigger problems. The syncro's can be cleaned and the transmission reassembled relatively easily but if you instead use the coctail the rest of the components will be worn beyond use. Run ATF through it about 3 to 5 times - leave it in for a full tank of gas each time. When it stops comming out black refill with decent synthetic such as valvoline. Other than that, you can get ahold of (or make) a 35mm thin wall socket (no more than 45.5mm OD) to dissasemble the transmission and clean the synco rings by hand. This is most effective. GD

If you remove the AC, you don't need a second fan. Non-AC EA82's don't have mechanical fans. Defrost is purely mechanical - flapper doors and a heater core. The compressor runs to dry the air and to keep the oil circulated in the lines. GD

Post in the wanted forum. GD

It would fit an EA81 but not an EA82 without changing the drive gear and mounting arrangement. GD

It wouldn't take much for a motivated machinist to make it happen. Chain sprockets are readily available, and you could use a heavy grease for lube - just change the chain and sprockets more often. No one in their right mind would bother with such foolishness, but it's not particularly difficult with the right tooling. GD

You won't be racing it, and you definitely won't be racing it if it's lifted. You have to understand.... the EA82 has 90 HP. It barely has enough to pull it's hulking self up a decent mountain. Add a lift and large tires and you'll be lucky to see the needle pass 80 MPH. All that, and the Loyale isn't well suited to lifting anyway. Wheelbase is too long, wrong engine, wrong transmission, too heavy, etc, etc. Your engine needs a reseal, and your alternator is toast. Pull the engine and do a complete reseal from the head-gaskets up. Replace the alt with a decent rebuilt (bosch seem to be alright). Do yourself a favor and do the timing belts, tensioners, idler, water pump, and all coolant hoses while you are at it. Flush the heater core and radiator. You are probably looking at around $300 to $500 in parts and several weekends of labor to make it decent and reliable. The only way you'll make it fast enough to beat that vtec is with an EJ22 swap.... which you clearly aren't ready for. Nothing will make your existing engine any faster, and there's no aftermarket for your car. No race, no pimp..... just drive - got it? GD

Yards around here it's $80 plus core charge (probably another $20). And there's tons of them. GD

You can't get to the freeze plugs without removing the cam towers. Basically you aren't going to fix this problem without pulling the heads so just figure on doing a full HG job, timing belt, water pump, etc. And being a DL - your first mod should be an oil pressure gauge. And stop running that engine - you are going to destroy the bottom end. GD

Just about any fuel injection pump that mounts outside the tank will work. It has to make 21 psi - the stock SPFI pump makes 50 psi dead-head. I beleive a lot of folks have had luck with Ford F150 pumps from years that mount to the frame rail and they are reasonably priced if you want a new one. Do a search and you'll find posts detailing these. GD

The torque on these is unimportant. The retainers are o-ring sealed. 1/4" ratchet tight is sufficient. Same goes for valve covers. 3/8" ratchet tight on the cam tower. Don't go crazy with torque wrenches - they are largely uneccesary except for gaskets that need a specific amount of "crush" to be effective. Head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets are really the only place they are useful on an EA series engine. You'll drive yourself crazy torqueing stuff that doesn't need it. GD

Unfortunately not. We've already seen the demise of the EA71 due to the unavailibility of head gaskets. The EA81 oil pumps are almost impossible to get now. Most other parts aren't far behind. Even the aircraft guys have largely moved to the EJ engines. GD

Less actually - the spider intake added some. The first MPFI non-turbo's were 95....back in '85. By the later 80's they had them up to 100 HP with the spider intake and some other changes. It may not sound like much but there are several factors here: 1. The EA82T has a 7.7:1 comp. ratio. It's power level without the turbo is probably around 60 HP. 2. The turbo is small - designed to spool rapidly and mask the otherwise poor performance of the engine. It's also supposed to drive like an N/A - turbo spools quick for torque down low. 3. Small turbo means it makes less CFM and has to spin much, much faster to make large amounts of boost. Thus the factory boost level of around 6 pounds. 4. Rough numbers, every pound of forced induction above atmospheric is equivelent to about 10 HP. So if you put on a larger turbo, boost to 11 or 12 pounds, deal with fuel cut, and get the fuel it would need, proper exhaust, etc - you could make 150+ HP.... till you collapse ring lands, blow holes in the pistons, blow the head gaskets out, crack the heads, or any number of other failures common to overboosted EA82T's. GD

Yes - replace the thermostat with one from the dealer. Aftermarket are inferior in quality. You should double check the accuracy of the dash gauge before you do anything else though. They are not accurate. GD

XT's came with what you are looking at - MPFI non-turbo with dual-port heads. They had 95 HP. GD

It is very often neccesary to make your own tools for stuff like this. If you brought something to my work (I work for a machinery manufacturer/distributor) I would just make the tool myself if I needed it. We have slide hammers and I would take a peice of round stock (say 1/4"), make a 90 degree bend in it, cut the bent section short and grind it to the shape I needed. Weld that to a nut for threading on the slide hammer and you are in business. Probably take me less than 30 minutes. All you really need is a vice to make the bend, a grinder, and access to a welder for 5 minutes. Your time is definately worth the $270 you'll save. GD

No doubt you are correct in that assertion. The original poster is just not familiar with the tendancy for Subaru oil pressure to read near or at 0 when warm due to the sending unit's being weak with age. And to the original poster - verify all the gauges with proper shop insturments prior to shotgunning parts at the car. Check the oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge and check the temp at the radiator with a laser temp gun. GD

Yeah - that's totally bizzare. That's just a threaded boss on all the EA82's I have. Nothing mounted there either. I'm going to say casting defect, cracked head, or as the previous poster asserted an improper bolt installation. GD

To a point you are correct - thinner oil is easier to pump, and thus should yeild higher pumping pressure's if all things are equal. What you have not taken into account though is that the efficiency of the pump goes *down* with a thinner pumping medium. The slippage through the pump is higher and so yeilds less pressure and less volume as the oil thins. Also as the oil thins it is pushed out between friction surfaces easier - rod and main bearings leak larger quantities of thinner oil resulting in a higher volume being required to maintain high system pressure. These affects generally cause monograde oil pressure's to drop in systems that employ oil pump designs similar to Subaru's. As they approach operating temperature you are likely to see about 10 psi drop in pressure. GD

They had access to parts that we do not and they designed the thing in the first place. Careful mixture control, timing, and boost settings via custom ECU programming. They also increased the RPM quite a bit. Mind you I'm refering to the european rally race versions that semi-reliabily produced around 175 HP. That is not to say this did anything good for the engine life (it didn't), and it's also not to be intended as a hard limit to the HP the engine can make. It can make more - it just won't last very long. The EA82 engine was designed on paper - a stop-gap solution till the EJ engine was ready. It's an EA81 with overhead cams - nothing more. It does not have the crank stability, nor the head, head gasket, or mating design stability for high-rpm/hp applications. The EJ20T was computer designed from the outset for turbo-charging. It produced over 200 HP in it's first variation in the late 80's. GD

The official tool is a slide hammer with a hook. Yes snap-on and all those guys make hooks for slide hammers. SOA part #399094310.... Which appears to have been replaced with this one: http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499097300 GD

If anything I would say the earlier gen heads might flow more due to there being less material. But overall I've never heard of anyone noting a difference. There's no indication of that from Subaru either as there was never anything put out about not mixing them if the need arises. Also the valves are all the same sizes and that is likely to be your limiting factor more than the port dimensions. Porting and polishing can yeild some improvements with less turbidity in flow, but is unlikely to flow more CFM without a change in the valves themselves. GD

I assume you are refering to the three generations of EA82 *turbo* heads? To my knowledge there were only a single generation of non-turbo, single port heads made. They were made succesively thicker in the area of the exhaust ports to prevent cracks between the valves extending into the coolant jacket. The problem was never adequately solved and only by controlling the mixtures to prevent excessive exhaust gas temps and limiting the level of forced induction to about 12 pounds or less are they capable of holding. Eventually the engine was outmoded by the EJ20T and attempts to solve the problems of the EA82T beyond 175 HP were abandoned. Further, the last (third) generation of heads were never actually put into production engines. They were only availible through the parts channels. GD

What year and model? As a rule you have to understand that this IS (probably) a 20+ year old car. You are likely to have similar problems with anything of that vintage. Generally Subaru's are known for their mechanical reliablility even in the face of strange electrical gremlins and other nuisance oddities. They are generally prized for their ability to withstand the the rigors of idiots and regardless of what the gauges say, they very, very rarely fly apart without warning and often will continue to make it home even in the face of severely, outstandingly, retarded owners. The sending unit's are diaphram based and when they fail they are often found to leak out the bottom where the wire attaches. It's directly under the pump to the left of the filter if you are looking from the front of the car. The wire that runs to them gets cooked by it's proximity to the engine and can become freyed around the last 12 inches or so the run to the pump. Just follow it and check it out. If it disconnects periodically the gauge will read zero. If you ground the wire to the block the gauge should peg out. Note that it is not uncommon for the gauge to read 0 (zero) at a warm idle. This is normal according to the owners manual. The pressure is not zero, but it is lower than the gauge can effectively read. From a mechanical or replacement electrical aftermarket gauge I like to see 25 psi at a hot idle, and at least 40 to 50 psi at cruising RPM. Best place to obtain an oil pump is from your local dealership parts deparment. GD