GeneralDisorder

if its not running when warm (choke off) then you have either a vacuum leak or the carb is plugged up somewhere. Its probably not the fuel filter and definately not the cat. GD

It's the other way around - the 4WD shafts are larger on the EA81's. You need the legacy DOJ's to fit the EA81 4WD shafts. There's a post about it within the last few months detailing the exact combination. But the EA82T DOJ's don't fit *any* EA81 shaft - otherwise the conversion would be simple and obvious and few would even ask the question I suppose. GD

You need to bleed the air from the cooling system. Put the vehicle on a hill with the nose up and burp the air out by massageing the upper and lower radiator hoses - running the engine a little with the cap off helps as well. It's tricky and takes some work with the EA82's. GD

On some models it's easy to make the mistake of routing it over the steering shaft and heater core hoses. I've seen more than one mis-routed in this way. GD

I have had zero issues with the EMPI axles on my hatch. I replaced the engine and trans mounts at the same time. I drive it almost daily to/from work - probably around 5,000 on them now. 240k on the car. I think a lot of the problems people have with axles is due to replacing just *one* axle. If you address the entire system - engine mounts, trans mounts, both axles, cone washers, wheel balance, engine idle..... etc.... you will have much fewer problems. Vibration can come from either the road or the drivetrain and the less you have the longer your axle joints will last. To date I have never replaced the same axle on the same car more than twice. And since I went to the GCK's, and then the EMPI's when GCK dissapeared.... I have replaced not a single one. Even the GCK's in my 5" lifted wagon are holding strong. GD

I have used the mounts from rock-auto and they were correct for an EA81 4 speed. I'm fairly certain there is no difference. The automatic's were entirely different as are the EA82 mounts but all the 4/5 speed EA81 mounts should be the same. GD

Valve stem seals. GD

There are two types of 4WD rear wheel bearings. There's a three-peice and a single piece unit - one was superceeded by the other in the mid 80's. It does sound like you were given the 2WD bearings. GD

You have a short in the ignition circuit. Sorry but that's really all anyone here is going to be able to tell you beyond how to operate a DMM and do basic electrical troubleshooting. GD

Just switch it to an internally regulated unit. There's been posts on doing this before - a search for them would be your best bet as it's been years since I've messed with a pre-82. GD

Dealer is the only source. GD

All of them will fit, but the non-turbo pistons will not handle much boost. Collapsed ring lands are usually the result. Additionally the EA81 pistons will not have the valve cut-outs that the EA82 pistons have so in the event of a timing belt failure you will have piston/valve contact. Invest in forged pistons if you are looking for higher boost - non of the stock stuff is worth the trouble. GD

EA82T cups don't fit the EA81 shafts. You need the Impreza/Legacy 2WD inner cups IIRC. GD

That's an excelent method if you have the time and the inclination to remove the knuckles. I leave them on the car and have the whole job done in a few hours (axles, bearings, etc). GD

Agreed - your alternator is putting out AC voltage due to a bad diode bridge. Replace the alt. The AC may have killed something else as well - you'll have to replace the alt and troubleshoot from there. GD

Remember to run it UNDER the steering shaft and the heater core hoses. GD

Just about anything works. Most of the stuff I use is either plastic or brass because that's what is commonly availible. If it's done right and the flow through the system is unrestricted, there shouldn't be any buildup in the PCV system. The stock lines are often clogged with carbonized oil due to the PCV filter being dirty inside the airbox. GD

The "factory" EA81 CC would be what's in the book. I would surmise that your two examples were "dealer" installed CC. Either Subaru or some knowledgable technician realized that you could use the EA82's CC setup with the EA81 and thus you have the beaded chain EA82 variety.... or they are entirely aftermarket which is also possible. The factory CC on my 84 wagon has the nasty vacuum pot/dual cable arrangment under the hood - horrible system. GD

Only if you installed a 1/4" orifice directly after the secondary "PCV" filter. It is the reduction in the tube ID that keeps the PCV working but not sucking so hard that it pulls oil from the valve cover. You can get the same effect by using some stock PCV couplings that are reduction T's and adding a second elbow from the bottom of the Weber filter that is either a 1/4" ID tubeing fitting (hose barb) or reduces down to 1/4" ID before joining the line going to the PCV valve. There is no need, nor is it at all desireable to have seperate filters for air and PCV. Makes it difficult to seal the engine up if you want to go with a snorkel at a later time too. GD

The short answer is there are no direct bolt-in applications. At the least you will have to change the turbine discharge flange completely and modify the turbine inlet flange. The compressor discharge will change from pointing at 12 o-clock to either 1:30 or 3:00 depending on which turbo you switch out to. The compressor inlet will change with the US market TD's or is similar if not identical with the VF-11 or the JDM TD05-16G..... Modifying the EA82T's though is almost an excersise in futility. You won't get where you want to go without redesigned heads, o-ringing the block, and a custom head stud set. The cost of just those items far outweighs the cost of installing a newer, better performing engine. GD

Yellow wire to the negative coil terminal, black w/white wire to the positive. You should switch to the coil that's designed for whatever distributor you use. The resistance values for the primary and secondary windings are carefully picked to match the module in the distributor. GD

It's not obvious from the diagram, but #5 and #6 do perform an important function - they provide a metered amount of filtered air to the PCV stream to limit the amount of oil the PCV system can suck from the driver's side valve cover (technically refered to as a "vacuum breaker"). The metering is done via the size of the hose they used - I don't beleive there is an orifice in that line. Additionally, hooking the two PCV hoses together before the filter causes the whole system to break down. There needs to be a loop for fresh air to be sucked from the air-cleaner, through the crank-case, and then into the PCV valve. With them connected together the PCV valve will simply suck fresh air and never remove acidic crankcase gases. There is no way to "replumb" the PCV system and have it work correctly - you need the small hose to limit the action of the system (or it sucks up lots of oil), and you need the large hoses to flow in the correct direction - that happens in the stock system, but will not if you change it. GD

There's no reason to use "points" style units. The electronic, breakerless two-wire units from any EA82 carb model will work just fine. Points were used through 78 or 79 on EA71's and earlier. There are very, very few of them around and they would require a gear change to fit the EA82.... which may or may not be feasible depending on their shaft/housing design. GD

Thus my sugestion to use the Subaru tool - it's much thinner. Also I'm sure you could grind (or turn) the socket down or buy a thinner plug socket from a "professional" tool dealer such as snap-on, mac, etc. Cheap sockets are often too thick for this sort of thing. I wouldn't sugest trying it with the socket already on the plug - there just too much risk in damaging the aluminium threads in the head with the steel plug threads. GD

Retro-fit the pedal assembly from an EA82 - the CC is operated entirely inside the cabin and has no effect on the cable to the carb. GD