GeneralDisorder

More work actually. The pushbutton requires more wireing and vacuum hose/solenoid hookup than the d/r. The linkage is the same either way except for the d/r you make a two cuts to the 4WD shift rod (the EA81 shift rod) - removing 1" of it and then welding it back together. It then pins to the transmission the same way it did to the 4 speed. GD

They are by no stretch of the imagination "fast". They would probably keep up with a stock EJ22 legacy wagon. The EA82T is....well it's probably better than you do a search, but it's not the reliable work-horse that your non-turbo is. As for more things to fail - yeah - about twice as many and twice as likely. They are junk, and to be avoided at all costs IMHO. I would rather have a Justy (except the CVT version). GD

I have never had an issue with one - I generally use about a 12" extension bar to weave down through the wires and hoses. If all else fails.... try using the subaru plug socket from the tool kit included with the car GD

There are so many variables that affect mileage that it's almost worthless to talk about it. Having been here many years and having owned more EA series vehicles than I care to remember, I can tell you that ultimately, if you setup everything correctly, you can get about 27 to 28 on a typical tank of gas for a 4WD EA81 . A bit more in the summer and a bit less in the winter. 2WD's are up around 31 to 32. You will, of course, have to shift the whole range down if you have high ethanol content in your local fuel. You'll lose about 2 MPG for every 10% of the stuff. GD

There aren't any. That's why the metric rims are worthless. GD

I doesn't matter - you can pick either one. There are many little differences thoughout the years on the EA82's but for the parts you are likely to be able to buy in the aftermarket there aren't any that really matter. The only one I can think of off the top of my head would be the radiator and lower radiator hose - those changed in the middle of the '91 model year. Everything else on your engine never really changed from 87 to 94. Everything that's not an engine or a common maintenance part isn't going to be availible in the aftermarket anyway and the dealer only needs to know the year - they aren't going to ask you for the VIN. GD

Quality axles run about $75 give or take. Used are a crapshoot and most reman'ed are junk. The cost of owning a Subaru and if you don't want to do them again in short order I sugest you rethink your purchasing priorities. Replacing the cone washer's is also a good idea (~$12 each from the dealer). Quality parts cost money - that's the price of driving a car. You can get by on used stuff if you have plenty of time to spend on your car - but time is money and in the case of many of us - time is more valuable than the difference in cost between a junkyard axle at $25 and a brand new one for $65.... not to mention the headache of pulling the thing from a yard. EMPI is my current brand of choice for axles and I get a good price from my local EMPI/VW aftermarket dealer. GD

It's either a bad sending unit or bad gauge in the cluster. There's specs in the FSM for what resistance values you should apply to verify operation of the gauge. GD

$56.00.... http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC7535&source=froogle&kw=OTC7535 GD

Great info! Thanks man. GD

If the clock isn't remembering it's time then one of the set's of bullet connectors may be related, but otherwise those are almost surely option wires that you don't have. They only make a few harnesses, and if you look on the dash you should have a tag that says "equipped for installation of optional AC", etc. Lots of options could be dealer installed or factory or not present at all. But the wireing for them exists to facilitate not ripping the car entierly apart when a customer just wants AC on his base model ride. GD

Early and late ported vacuum ports. The one with the screw is for the EGR (late), and the other is for the vacuum advance pot. GD

Flat side (spring side) should always face the bearings. On some styles of seals you have to cut a lip off the inner seal or it will "ride" funny on the axle joint cup.... but that may be an EA81 thing.... I can't recall off the top of my head. As for the bearings - pressing them in/out is entirely uneccesary. The interferance fit is not that tight. You drift out the old bearings with a punch and drift in the new one's the same way - being careful to line them up straight as they go in and working your way around the bearing outer race with a brass drift. As a rule you ALWAYS install bearings by pressing/pounding/whatever on the race that will not transmit the force through the balls. If you have to work with that race (As when installing the axles) then a puller should be used that applies even, steady force. Any hard jolts will work-harden the spots where the balls contact the race and cause premature bearing failure. GD

BTW - these often are "stuck" due to many soda's being spilled into the center console. A good cleaning often fixes the interlock solenoind. Removing it works too and means you never need to use the button or step on the brake - which is the way I prefer it anyway. GD

Even if it weren't the same pulse width it wouldn't matter. The ECU is only looking at whether you are moving or not moving. It doesn't care what the actual speed is. It's only real function is to increase the idle slightly when the car is moving to lengthen clutch life. Anything that generates a square wave at the correct voltage peak works - as it happens both use the same voltage and pulse width making them fully and completely compatible without any modifications. GD

No - the VSS is part of the speedo head inside the cluster on all older Subaru's. The wire is a yellow/red stripe comming out of the gauge cluster (going to FI, CC, nothing, etc). GD

No - you are probably right. It would be too much of a nightmare to swap in the GL cluster to a DL anyway and make everything work as it should. I've seen sun fading before so I understand what you are talking about. Just a low-end GL then. Dual-Range, a tach, and compound headlights are about all it has over a DL. GD

I would need a better picture I guess. Under your flash it really looks grey to me. GD

Yeah - maybe a low-end GL with an automatic -> 5 speed swap..... but that doesn't account for the 5 speed knob being blue and the rest being grey. Stock they would have all matched. I can't see it being a push-button single range in a GL..... maybe a 2WD GL converted to 4WD? GD

HHhmmm - on closer inspection you have a real frankencar there my friend. That may have even been a DL originally. None of your dual-range 4WD consoles match the interior color and it's got crank windows, no AC, no PS..... smells like a DL except for the headlights and gauge cluster. I think you may have a rebadge on your hands. That's got to be one of the lowest-end GL's I've seen if it isn't. As close to an EA81 GL as I've seen in the EA82 trim. The mis-match interior really points to a single-range -> dual-range conversion and no GL's came with single range unless they were automatic's or turbo. GD

Yeah - no problem. GD

Oh - yeah it's written on the jets. Sometimes you have to pull them out and take a magnifying glass to them but it's there. If it isn't..... throw it away and drop $5 on one with writting so you know what you have. GD

Nope - have to pull the top and look. GD

You are correct that the switch only operates the rear hatch lock. That is normal. BUT, there are actuators in each door, and a switch in the drivers door that causes all the other doors to lock when the driver's door is locked (there are no external indications of this system). Generally GL's and up are so equipped. Although you don't have power steering which is extreemly rare in a GL..... All GL wagons would have come with power locks and I have my doubts about some previous owner installing the rear door locking circuit.... what? For giggles? I think they loaded you with BS about the rear lock to cover the door locks not working. GD

The jetting will have to be changed at any rate. I can't imagine a Fiat having anthing close to an EA82 in it. Being that it's been rebuilt, you just need to pop the top off and change the jets. GD