GeneralDisorder

It's an NLGI grade 2 with moly. It's black and slightly stringy. You don't have to buy the "CV" grease. That's a rip off. Just buy a tube of Moly grease - it will likely be grade 2 anyway as that's the most common. HOWEVER. You should clean all the old grease out completely as they could be incompatible. GD

It's a tapered fit. I always just put the control arm on the edge of a solid suface with the nut end of the ball joint up and smack the threaded end of the ball joint with a copper or brass hammer. It generally drives them out without issue. You could use a T-bar or two-jaw puller to push them out also. GD

The 88 rear seat is too wide as the EA82 body is wider. The fronts are relatively easy if you can weld. The glf rails will have to be mounted closer together than the 88 rails were as the seats are built wider by about 1.5". I weld adapter brackets (short sections of flat bar) to the seat frame and then bolt on the EA81 rails. GD

The best option is to swap in the SPFI injection for about $200 - but it does require some skills - mostly electrical. The next best option is the weber at around $400 to $500. It makes similar power, is easier to install but harder to tune and more expensive. Beyond that there is the EJ series engines from the newer legacy cars. That generally runs into the $1000+ range. GD

Its possible that the strut could be bent..... did he even look at it though? I have bent strut tubes but it takes some serious air unless you hit something. Generally if you hit something the control arm will bend before the strut will. Only way to bend a strut by itself is to get a couple feet of air.... in my experience. GD

The Gen 1 Brat had a weird rear diff - I beleive it was 4.11 or something close to it. The guys in the Historic section of the board would know for sure. I know they aren't compatible with the D/R transmissions though. Your are better off getting a known 3.9 from any EA81 or EA82 4WD (non-turbo). The EA81 and EA82 diffs are marked on the sticker what their ratio is. GD

I have seen water pump failure cause the belts to jump time. Inspect carefully to insure nothing is locking up and that the hydraulic tensioner is not defective. GD

It's possible if the bushings are shot and/or the strut spring rate has changed. Replacing all the rubber bushings (control arm and strut top at least) and verifying the spring dimension on the strut should restore it and make adjustment possible again. It's also possible that something is bent - it can be difficult to tell without dismounting each component from the car. "old" could mean wore out rubber or it could mean bent....or both. But his statement is likely true for some very real reasons. I would say rip into it and inspect as you go. Replace as needed. Align after. GD

The metal clip serves only to attach the float needle to the float so that when the float drops it pulls the needle down with it. I would double check your timing - both valve and ignition. If you rotated the cams several times then likely the ignition timing is off. The distributor is driven off the drivers side cam. GD

I don't really care to elaborate. You don't seem to be here to learn - rather you have come here to show off and argue. No one is impressed and your attitude will not engender my experience. My time is too valuable. As for adjustable suspentions - I have a friend that put air shocks from a camaro on his 5" lifted hatch..... 5 years ago. There is nothing new about this. (hat's off to Chux though as he pioneered the non-lifted EA82 suspension research). GD

My 94 legacy wagon got as good as my EA81 hatchback does. 25 in the city, 28 freeway. MPFI is an amazing thing. GD

I wont dissagree that it does what it says.... it's the stuff that it does but doesn't tell you that's the problem. Fix it right or shorten the life of the block by 100k - your choice. And before you dispute me - check my post count against your own. GD

Stiff suspension is bad for lifted Subarus..... mmkay? GD

It's worth the added investment for the dead-reliable 135 HP! GD

It's really a specious argument. Am I any worse than the thousands of pre-emissions muscle cars out there? Am I any worse than most Harley's? If I couldn't do what I wanted to with my 80's Subaru I would just go buy an ex-military Duece. The tiny minority of people such as myself make no dent in the millions of suckers that have already bought into the green craze and have purchased Priuses. Let them have their fad. I walk my own path. Besides - I'm saving the "fricken" earth more than they are - I'm recycling (not because it's "green" mind you!) by not buying a new car every 3 to 5 years. There's more pollution made in createing one prius than me driving my catless 25 MPG Subaru for 3 to 5 years . The verdict was in a LONG time ago. It's industrial pollution that has got the bunny huggers all wadded up in their trousers. Manufacturing and consumption are to blame - consumption WAY beyond what is or was realistic or neccesary. I'll not be picking up the slack for all the consumers - thanks but I would rather see them rot in the bed they have made for themselves. MORE consumption isn't going to fix the problem (if you consider it a problem - which I don't. So we get a few more desserts and Arizona has waterfront property? Sounds just fine to me). Seriously - we could use a population reduction. They say that after the black death wiped out 1/3 of the population of the known world there was 500 years of prosperity for those that were left - more jobs, more food, more land.... etc. Here I am at the top of food chain living in the US.... I'm golden. And hell yes I'm selfish like that! GD

"Countless people" are wrong. There should be no backpressure in the exhaust system. Scavenging takes place in the headers prior to the y junction. I have gutted the cat on every Subaru I've owned. Most (2/3 at least) are already broken up and half plugged anyway. GD

Only the EA82 came with the 5 speed dual range. There are EJ engines in europe that had them as well but not in the US. The EJ22 bolts to the EA82 5 speed D/R with an adaptor plate - there are several members here that make them and sell them. Rguyver makes laser cut plates for $100 (plus shipping from Canada unless you catch him at the west coast Subaru show) - his are both the nicest and the cheapest I've seen. You also will need the flywheel and clutch setup from the EA82. The flywheel bolt pattern is modified and it bolts to the EJ22 crank nose. GD

Generally it's best to buy a whole car and yard out what you need. Good running and driving 90 to 94 Legacy's fetch around $750 or less. I just got one for free and drove it home after replacing the alternator. Obviously that's the exception but the last one I bought off craigslist after searching for only 3 days for $750. It had 134k on it and needed about $200 for a first-class water pump/timing belt job (all OEM parts). I drove it for another 12k and sold it. The EJ22's are argueably (and no one here will argue against it) the most reliable engine Subaru ever made. It is extremely uncommon to see an interenal mechanical failure before 300k. GD

It's really not the kit that's the problem. You can make most of the gaskets if you have to and you could have head gaskets made up for not a ton of money.... the problem is replacement *parts*. Namely the oil pump - no other newer pump will fit and they nearly always need to be replaced unless the owner of the car had the oil and filter religiously changed at 3k. They are nearly always completely shot. Rings, rod & main bearings etc will not look much better than the pump itself looks. And I assure you they are generally horrific. I have replaced more pushrod EA series oil pumps than I care to remember and I've rebuilt a few engines as well. Anything older than an EA81 at this point is real questionable as to it's future supportability. If I were you I would just drop in an EJ22 complete will it's whole fuel injection system and call it good (+ adaptor plate and D/R transmission). They really don't have much on them for emissions and being computer controlled they are easy to work on and nearly aways pass inspections. GD

It's grandfathered because they are factory equipment. No officer could make a citation stick in court (that's not to say they won't try) unless you had been warned about it previously and they could prove it. So as long as you haven't been pulled over yet - go for it. GD

With a Weber, all you are running is the distributor vacuum advance and the EGR valve. Both run off the front of the carb - EGR is slightly higher and to the left (often blocked with a small brass screw on brand new carbs or one's setup to run without EGR), and the vacuum advance is to the right. You install the fuel barb from the Hitachi into the Weber (threads are the same) and hookup the fuel lines exactly as they were on the Hitachi. Other than that do a search on how to hookup the breather and PCV lines or just look in the FSM. The rest is just fitting. If it's going on an EA82 then you will need to make a slight dent in the power steering reservoir to clear the choke and you will want to use the plastic spacer from the Hitachi to get a bit more height. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean and flat. NO RTV for the gaskets. They should be dry or if you must - use a product like gaskachinch or anything designed for paper gaskets that is gasoline rated. RTV will melt - don't use it around gasoline. In fact there's very few uses for RTV other than to pre-coat the old-school cork gaskets such as the oil pan. Hook the electric choke wire from the Hitachi to the one on the Weber. Then it's just about starting and tuning. There's plenty of guides online for this. GD

That is true and I speak to that in my SPFI write up, but with anything that's over 20 years old.... it could have been converted to 4WD, or could have had a turbo and been swapped out..... you just never can tell for sure with used rigs. Mechanics have definately been all over it durring it's lifetime and who knows what's been done. We all know how easy a 4WD swap is on the EA82's and more than one EA82T has been swapped for an SPFI engine. I should have been more clean in my original post. From the factory it should be carbed, but you just never know till you open the hood. GD

Bad grounds - clean all the wiring harness grounding points. GD

You need to steam clean and test run the thing to be sure you aren't wasting your time fixing things that aren't broken. GD

I've power washed my share of seats. They'll be fine. You could also use a carpet/upholstery steamer. GD