GeneralDisorder

You don't want a new bolt - it's not going to be the correct grade and the aformentioned problems with torque are no different with a larger metric bolt than they were with a larger standard bolt. You need to find an M11 x 1.25.... the last number is the depth and that's not important for your puposes. GD

I think fastenal sells the "Recoil" branded version. Same thing though. But I could be wrong about the brand - we buy from so many suppliers I get confused. GD

Yes if the 1975 models came with the EA71. I think they were EA63's for the most part though (1400cc). With the use of a mid-80's bell-housing or block the EA71 can mate to any side-starter EA81/EA82 transmission. Additionally with the use of an EJ adaptor plate it could be mated to any of the EJ transmissions right up to the current 2009 models. Use a 3.7 final drive transmission from an RX - tall overdrive and tall final drive plus dual range - you can install the low range gears from a non-turbo and have a 1.59:1 reduction as well. You can do almost anything - you just have to research how to put it together. GD

Any decent tool supplier should have them as well. Fastenal could probably get them in 1 business day. There are many others. GD

One should note thought that it's relatively trivial to add an O2 bung anywhere you like. They are widely availible due to the wideband O2 sensor market. GD

He's is refering to the "Pacific North West" corner of the USA. So basically Oregon, Washington, Idaho, etc. Pacific refers to the pacific ocean and North-West should be obvious yes? GD

Just oil - no additives. Especially not Lucas. Stop falling into the marketing net. I swear - you people are like tuna.... It will be loud, and it will sound mean, but you will LOSE power. The fireing order of the H4 engine is 1,3,2,4. That means that each bank of 2 cylinders will be exhausting into the same section of pipe within 90 degrees crank rotation of each other - the two close exhaust pulses are fighting each other for space in the exhaust header. The purpose of the cross-over is to allow exhaust gasses to bleed into the "quiet" side of the exhaust system (the other header). This results it torque improvement throughout the power band but especially in the low and mid ranges. Additionally, exhaust velocity through the header (on N/A engines) must be carefully balanced to both insure complete extraction of the gasses without backpressure and to acheive maximum scavenging - where the escaping (and expanding) exhaust gasses help to pull in the next intake charge durring valve overlap. In other words - you can't just throw two big pipes on it and expect a performane increase from your redneck endevours. There is more to it than you realize and I sugest you get a good book on the subject. Or at least search for what other's on here reccomend. Frankly though your best bet is to punch out the cat and install a larger, freely flowing muffler. Leave it at that and you'll be in much better shape. Anything less than a full custom exhaust with madrel bent pipe and properly sized (diameter and length before the y-junction) tubing will be a waste of your time and effort as you will gain nothing other than a very annoying sounding exhaust system to those of us with sensitive ears to such things. GD

5 speed's are MUCH more plentiful. The dual-range 5 speed was standard equipment for more years (5 years vs. 4 years). 4 speed's have issues with the 3rd gear syncro. Both have issues with the reverse engagement due to sloppy linkage. 4 and 5 speeds have (for all intents and purposes) the same final gear ratio - that is to say that 4 on a 4 speed is the same as 5 on a 5 speed. The 5 speed has two gears for the 3rd gear on a 4 speed. It makes cruising at 25 MPH tollerable. That's about all it does for you. The one exception is the 81/82 4 speed. It has shorter 3rd and 4th gears. Being that you are looking for taller gears, that further reduces your options to only 2 model years (as well as 85-89 EA81's.... which there were not nearly as many) . The 5 speed's have stronger syncro's, a 10x better linkage arrangement, they are smaller, lighter, and have a 1.59:1 reduction in low range vs. a 1.45:1 on the 4 speed. They are the obvious choice - which is why we all use them. The going rate is around $100. I won't pay any more for one - they are as common as dirt. You are incorrect about the EA71. There were EA71's made with the correct bell-housing for the dual-range transmission. They were made in the mid-80's and came on the STD model hatchback. The bell-housing I beleive can be fitted to the older EA71 or at least the entire engine can be made to look as though it came factory in a 70's body. It's not difficult to restamp some serial numbers if you already have a 70's EA71 laying around. EA81's are the better choice of course, but even parts for them are getting scarce. Just sourceing oil-pump's is getting tough. Forget about finding parts for the EA71's - even the most popular engine rebuilder for Subaru engines has stopped rebuilding them due to Subaru not carrying any of the parts - can't even get a head gasket from the dealer for them anymore. GD

Unfortunately if you use a larger diameter *bolt* you are going to affect the torque value required to put the same amount of clamp force on the head gasket. The larger diameter bolt will not stretch the same even if you get the exact same grade (there aren't exact equivelents of grade between standard and metric either so that's another concern). You had better discuss such things with an engineer or a very good machinist before doing it. There are formuli to determine such things, but I am not versed in them and would have to research it. Having an unequal clamping force for a single bolt is a really bad idea - will almost certainly warp the head and probably cause a premature gasket failure. GD

Yes - the nut doesn't loosen by spinning on the threads, it loosens by the cone washer and hub mating surfaces wearing away beneath the nut - thus causing there to be an ever-diminishing "stack" behind the nut and causing the hub to be loose on the axle. GD

It does not depend. The SPFI swap is entirely unassociated with the catalyst. GD

Delta will make whatever you want, but you should think twice about spending the time and money on that engine. It's limited to duration changes only on the cams because of the cam tower designs (no changes in max lift). You also would need two cams..... GD

I second the walbro - have one in my 91 LSS - works great. GD

The "cone washer" or "conical spacer" as it is refered to is actually a mecahnical lock, known as a "mechalock" or simply a taper-lock. As the nut is tightened, the cone shape of the hub forces the cone washer to close at it's split (notice the 1/16" gap in the cone washer?). As the washer closes it grabs the axle shaft and locks the hub to the shaft. If the cone washer or hub are damaged/grooved/etc this will not occur at the specified torque value and the axle nut will never stay tight. I have seen this on more than one occasion - eventually leading to the destruction of the splines in the hub. Generally it is only neccesary to replace the cone washer as it is softer than the hub. !No amount of filing/grinding/reworking/etc will fix a worn cone washer! Any reduction in the OD of the washer will result in insufficient clamping force on the axle shaft and loosening of the nut. Any questions? GD

For the reccord, nowhere in my write up does it mention the need or use of a cat. GD

No - it likely won't fit through the head. Mixing standard and metric like that is amaturish and it will be difficult to match up a new non-metric bolt with a similar grade. If you must, install a 10mm x 1.0 heli-coil and source a stud for that location. 10mmx1.0 is much more common and you should be able to heli-coil down 1mm without any drilling - just tap it and install the heli-coil. Otherwise do it right and get the proper heli-coil - while you are at it do the rest of them as well. Or at least chase the threads with a proper tap. GD

All Subaru bolts/studs are reusable. Even the torque to yeild variety are rarely replaced in practice. In fact most of the techs just torque them to a ft/lbs value rather than following the manual procedure for the EJ's. For anything prior to the EJ's the studs/bolts are not called out for replacement unless they are damaged. GD

Any auto-parts store will carry some form of heli-coil. That is only one brand of thread repair. There's probably half a dozen at least. Just ask for a thread repair kit in the size of your bolt. Probably 10mm or 12mm - can't remember off the top of my head. This is common with aluminium and you should inspect the threads carefully and repair any that are damaged prior to attempting to install the head a second time. GD

Remove the head and install a heli-coil. You'll need another head gasket if it's been partially torqued. GD

Let us know what grease you use for the rack and pinion gears. I checked into it a few years back and the grease was insanely expensive IIRC. It looks like a lithium base as it's white. It's also quite thick. When I talked with Lithia they had no clue as to the grease I should use as they claim to have never rebuilt one as they almost never fail and when they do they are replaced, not rebuilt. I would be very careful about the installation of the teflon hydraulic seals as well - mine leaked worse when I put it together after an investigatory dissasembly than it did before I touched it. The rack tube may need to be honed or replaced if it's got any grooving or pitting damage. Also remember to order new lock washers as you will be destroying most of them in order to get the rack apart. GD

+1 to the hole being under the intake manifold. I am one of the few around here that have personally done it. The first engine in my lifted wagon went too long between oil changes (filters really) before I owned it - it chews up the oil pumps when the oil bypasses the filter and eventually leads to low oil pressure and rod failure. It's generally always the #3 rod that goes as it's farthest from the oil pump. If it truely is a rebuild than the painted block screams amature to me - it's aluminium and they are not painted by any of the major rebuild houses nor were they painted from the factory. Sounds like what we call a "rattle can rebuild" in my line of work . People who are concerned with the appearance of the block (cast iron understandably the exception) are generally not the same people that do quality rebuilding of engines. For one thing almost anyone that turns wrenches for a living would just have it media blasted (or do it themselves) and leave it shiny silver. And once the block halves are cleaned and honed - ready for assembly - they are usually quite clean and nice looking without further modification. GD

Your idle speed is too high - you may have vacuum leaks. Change the plugs and wires as sugested. Adjust the idle air control valve to get the idle back where it should be. Change the oil and the air filter while you are at it and make sure the PCV is working and all the lines are clear. You really aren't all that far from passing - just a few maintenance items may get it under control. If that doesn't work buy a cheap 3-way catalytic coverter off ebay and add it to the mid-pipe section of the exhaust. That will get it under control for sure and is definately the cheapest way to go if you can do a little rudimentary welding and fitting. Less than $50 for a sure-fire fix is worth it when you consider that it may take hundreds of $$ and many man-hours to make it pass by only fixing the stock equipment. Not that it can't be done, but if it otherwise runs fine, how much time and money do you want to throw at a sub-$1000 car? GD

Unfortunately that only works on the 2WD consoles. The 4WD consoles have less room behind them where the map pocket is/was. I am in the process of doing exactly this modification on the 4WD console and I have to make about a 1/2" spacer for the deck to make it work. Not a big deal for me, but might be an issue for some. GD

The (sometimes easier) option for those that aren't able to fix it with a new cable or don't want to R&R the ignition switch is to install a relay powered from the original solenoid signal. The signal has enough current to pull in the relay and the relay can provide full current to the solenoid. This is actually the best option (and how it should have been built in the first place) as the wireing doesn't have to carry the full current of the starter solenoid. GD

Generally there are two causes: 1. bad main battery cables 2. bad ignition switch/wiring. the switch or wiring cant pass enough current to pull in the solenoid hard enough to connect the contacts. GD