GeneralDisorder

Rockauto is good, but typically I use either my local dealer or one of the online dealers for most of my parts. I have not been overly impressed with much of the aftermarket stuff and the dealers pricing is actually decent. But of all of them, Rockauto is one of my top choices. Too bad their shipping rate is outragous. GD

It's possible, on the turbo's, that the engine may need to be jacked up off the cross-member to allow enough space for the header to be slipped in. But that's not a huge deal - you jack it using the oil pan and a block of wood. GD

Well - get out there tommorrow and remove the turbo and the exhaust headers. All that stuff goes back together after you have the head on. You are finding out that it's best to do it the right way the first time. That's just part of the learning process. Get the rest of the stuff off and out of your way so you can focus on doing the HG right. If you need someone to stop by this week and make sure you are moving in the right direction I could most likely do that. GD

There is nothing in a Loyale that you want. No D/R (they were push-button single range) and the EA82 is not the engine for you. Really wide, problematic timing belts and head gaskets, and only 10 more HP than the EA81. You want the EJ22. As for telling what engine you are lookingg at - on the passenger side front of the block casting will be the designation - it will be cast into the block. You will get a taste pretty quick for the body style that has the engine you want. It's going to be 90 through 94 Legacy's (not Loyale's). The D/R tranny will come from 85 to 89 GL's (same as the Loyale body). GD

I might be willing to assist sometime this next week after work. I've done my share of EA82 head gaskets. You should work on getting some of the stuff that's in your way moved - the turbo and the intake manifold are best removed as well as the exhaust headers and up-pipe. What specifically is the problem you are running into? Perhaps I could help get you back on track with a few pointers - gresham isn't far - I'm in West Linn. GD

Yes - that's exactly the combination I would use. You need: EJ22 (plus wireing - 90 to 94 are simplest). 5 speed D/R Adaptor plate EA82 Flywheel (redrilled to the EJ22 crank pattern) EA82 (or XT6, ect) clutch GD

There is no difference between the turbo and non-turbo EA81 gas tanks. There are 4 gas tank models - 2WD long wheel base (coupe, brat, wagon, sedan), 4WD long wheel base, 2WD short wheel base (hatch), and 4WD short wheel base. GD

Ah - I understand then. GD

What are you trying to show in the pictures? GD

The biggest hurdle is having custom axles made or making them yourself. No stock axle has both the correct outer joint to interface with the 5-lug knuckle and the correct length for the EA81 body. You can either have completely custom axles fabbed ($$$), or cut the two types of axles in half and join them with a sleeve - that means turning the OD down on both sections to accept a sleeve with a .001" interfefance fit. Then you heat the sleeve and install both sections into it and plug weld the sleeve to the axle shafts through prieviously made perforations in the sleeve. It's not a huge deal if you have access to a press, a lathe, and a decent welder. But if you don't it would be nigh impossible. Then there's the issue of the ball joints.... the XT6 knuckle uses a ball joint that isn't compatible with the EA81 control arm. This can be corrected with some machineing. GD

The only 5 speed D/R that was AWD (Full-Time 4WD really) was the 87 to 89 RX transmission. It is a form of AWD with a center locking diff that allows it to go from AWD to 50/50 4WD. Although the low range is only 1.2:1 and the diff ratio is 3.7 so it's really a very poor choice for off-road unless at *least* the low range is changed to 1.59:1 - but that requires a full transmission dissasemble and reassemble plus sacrificing a true 3.9 ratio D/R for it's low range gear set and input shaft assembly. GD

EA81's are not as easy as EA82's to swap. The transmission tunnel sheet metal is different and needs modification if there is no lift going in. Also the 2WD's did not have the gas tank with clearance for the diff so the whole tank has to be changed unless you go with more than 6" of lift to the rear diff. With some beating you can fit a 4WD transmission in but it's easier if you add some 1" spacers to the trans cross-member. As for the AWD/EJ swap - you need to make new 25 spline axles useing the DOJ's from an early 90's 2WD legacy or impreza on the EA81 axle shafts. GD

Agreed.... "does not run correctly" is worthless. Can't help you. I will say that the EA82T is the most problematic engine Subaru ever made. You will tear your hair out owning one. GD

That does suck, but not entirely unexpected with an EA82T. Sorry for your plight my friend. Rather than dumping a bunch of money into fixing it you might consider looking for an early 90's legacy - similar power without the turbo. Especially if you are going to be pulling trailers with whatever rig you end up with after this disaster. I know it's not a lot of help to tell you this, but that's a really poor rig to be towing with given the fragility of that engine model. FWIW if I had the parts and I was in your neck of the woods I would come help.... I know what it's like to learn the hard way. GD

Yes - it does sound like the float needle and seat are not doing their job of stopping the fuel flow. You need to dissasemble the carb and inspect your needle, seat and float. Something isn't right. Even if the return line were blocked, the fuel pressure is only about 2 psi so the needle would shut it off without issue. GD

Jets should be: 140/140 mains 170/160 air correctors 50 idle jets The rest aren't likely to affect much. Timing should be about 10 BTDC. (Stock is 8). Much higher than 10 or 12 and you'll get a lot of ping unless you are way too rich. GD

It's an NLGI grade 2 with moly. It's black and slightly stringy. You don't have to buy the "CV" grease. That's a rip off. Just buy a tube of Moly grease - it will likely be grade 2 anyway as that's the most common. HOWEVER. You should clean all the old grease out completely as they could be incompatible. GD

It's a tapered fit. I always just put the control arm on the edge of a solid suface with the nut end of the ball joint up and smack the threaded end of the ball joint with a copper or brass hammer. It generally drives them out without issue. You could use a T-bar or two-jaw puller to push them out also. GD

The 88 rear seat is too wide as the EA82 body is wider. The fronts are relatively easy if you can weld. The glf rails will have to be mounted closer together than the 88 rails were as the seats are built wider by about 1.5". I weld adapter brackets (short sections of flat bar) to the seat frame and then bolt on the EA81 rails. GD

The best option is to swap in the SPFI injection for about $200 - but it does require some skills - mostly electrical. The next best option is the weber at around $400 to $500. It makes similar power, is easier to install but harder to tune and more expensive. Beyond that there is the EJ series engines from the newer legacy cars. That generally runs into the $1000+ range. GD

Its possible that the strut could be bent..... did he even look at it though? I have bent strut tubes but it takes some serious air unless you hit something. Generally if you hit something the control arm will bend before the strut will. Only way to bend a strut by itself is to get a couple feet of air.... in my experience. GD

The Gen 1 Brat had a weird rear diff - I beleive it was 4.11 or something close to it. The guys in the Historic section of the board would know for sure. I know they aren't compatible with the D/R transmissions though. Your are better off getting a known 3.9 from any EA81 or EA82 4WD (non-turbo). The EA81 and EA82 diffs are marked on the sticker what their ratio is. GD

I have seen water pump failure cause the belts to jump time. Inspect carefully to insure nothing is locking up and that the hydraulic tensioner is not defective. GD

It's possible if the bushings are shot and/or the strut spring rate has changed. Replacing all the rubber bushings (control arm and strut top at least) and verifying the spring dimension on the strut should restore it and make adjustment possible again. It's also possible that something is bent - it can be difficult to tell without dismounting each component from the car. "old" could mean wore out rubber or it could mean bent....or both. But his statement is likely true for some very real reasons. I would say rip into it and inspect as you go. Replace as needed. Align after. GD

The metal clip serves only to attach the float needle to the float so that when the float drops it pulls the needle down with it. I would double check your timing - both valve and ignition. If you rotated the cams several times then likely the ignition timing is off. The distributor is driven off the drivers side cam. GD