GeneralDisorder

It hasn't been done that I know of, but it's probably possible with modification to the bell-housing. You could remove the two bell-housings, cut them apart, and TIG weld the mating surface of the EA81 bell-housing to the block mating surface of the EA63 bell-housing. It would take a bit of fabrication but not more than 8 hours I wouldn't think. BTW - you keep refering to them as EA61's, which they are not. It's an EA63. There's still the issue of finding an EA63 (rare), and getting parts to restore it to proper operation (virtually unheard of - hence why they are so rare now). GD

Just pop out the drain plugs in the floor and wash it out. Do it all the time with my off-road rigs. GD

Some 86's were carbed, some were not. Most 4WD's were carbed and most 2WD's were SPFI. But it's not a hard and fast rule. You don't need to use a Subaru fuel pump. There's plenty of pumps that will work. They all make some type of whineing noise. It's the type of pump they are. You need a 50 psi capable pump. There's threads about using some early Ford F series truck pumps as they are cheap and availible. GD

The size of the hole will depend on the design of the kit. You will have to get the specs from the kit to know for sure. GD

I don't beleive that the EA63 can be fitted with the bell-housing of the EA71 so I don't think it would work. You also would have a tough time finding one and an even tougher time finding parts. GD

Could definately be a bad regulator in the alt. Bad diodes will cause it to put out AC and that will not effectively recharge the coil at higher RPM. Plus it would explain the naughty tach. AC is no good for your electrical system on a Subaru. GD

It's not transitioning properly to the secondary barrel. Possibly the accelerator pump is not functioning or the throttle plates aren't set correctly for the transition ports (or they are blocked). Stop blaming things on the EGR. They are not responsible for running issues unlesss they are stuck open (huge vac leak). They nearly always are stuck closed and function effectively as a block-off plate under such conditions. GD

Pretty common - it should have some noticeable play in the shaft if you grab the rotor. It doesn't take much to throw the air-gap off on the reluctor and then the spark timing goes all wonky. GD

Your distributor shaft bushings are worn out. Replace the distributor. GD

You don't want a new bolt - it's not going to be the correct grade and the aformentioned problems with torque are no different with a larger metric bolt than they were with a larger standard bolt. You need to find an M11 x 1.25.... the last number is the depth and that's not important for your puposes. GD

I think fastenal sells the "Recoil" branded version. Same thing though. But I could be wrong about the brand - we buy from so many suppliers I get confused. GD

Yes if the 1975 models came with the EA71. I think they were EA63's for the most part though (1400cc). With the use of a mid-80's bell-housing or block the EA71 can mate to any side-starter EA81/EA82 transmission. Additionally with the use of an EJ adaptor plate it could be mated to any of the EJ transmissions right up to the current 2009 models. Use a 3.7 final drive transmission from an RX - tall overdrive and tall final drive plus dual range - you can install the low range gears from a non-turbo and have a 1.59:1 reduction as well. You can do almost anything - you just have to research how to put it together. GD

Any decent tool supplier should have them as well. Fastenal could probably get them in 1 business day. There are many others. GD

One should note thought that it's relatively trivial to add an O2 bung anywhere you like. They are widely availible due to the wideband O2 sensor market. GD

He's is refering to the "Pacific North West" corner of the USA. So basically Oregon, Washington, Idaho, etc. Pacific refers to the pacific ocean and North-West should be obvious yes? GD

Just oil - no additives. Especially not Lucas. Stop falling into the marketing net. I swear - you people are like tuna.... It will be loud, and it will sound mean, but you will LOSE power. The fireing order of the H4 engine is 1,3,2,4. That means that each bank of 2 cylinders will be exhausting into the same section of pipe within 90 degrees crank rotation of each other - the two close exhaust pulses are fighting each other for space in the exhaust header. The purpose of the cross-over is to allow exhaust gasses to bleed into the "quiet" side of the exhaust system (the other header). This results it torque improvement throughout the power band but especially in the low and mid ranges. Additionally, exhaust velocity through the header (on N/A engines) must be carefully balanced to both insure complete extraction of the gasses without backpressure and to acheive maximum scavenging - where the escaping (and expanding) exhaust gasses help to pull in the next intake charge durring valve overlap. In other words - you can't just throw two big pipes on it and expect a performane increase from your redneck endevours. There is more to it than you realize and I sugest you get a good book on the subject. Or at least search for what other's on here reccomend. Frankly though your best bet is to punch out the cat and install a larger, freely flowing muffler. Leave it at that and you'll be in much better shape. Anything less than a full custom exhaust with madrel bent pipe and properly sized (diameter and length before the y-junction) tubing will be a waste of your time and effort as you will gain nothing other than a very annoying sounding exhaust system to those of us with sensitive ears to such things. GD

5 speed's are MUCH more plentiful. The dual-range 5 speed was standard equipment for more years (5 years vs. 4 years). 4 speed's have issues with the 3rd gear syncro. Both have issues with the reverse engagement due to sloppy linkage. 4 and 5 speeds have (for all intents and purposes) the same final gear ratio - that is to say that 4 on a 4 speed is the same as 5 on a 5 speed. The 5 speed has two gears for the 3rd gear on a 4 speed. It makes cruising at 25 MPH tollerable. That's about all it does for you. The one exception is the 81/82 4 speed. It has shorter 3rd and 4th gears. Being that you are looking for taller gears, that further reduces your options to only 2 model years (as well as 85-89 EA81's.... which there were not nearly as many) . The 5 speed's have stronger syncro's, a 10x better linkage arrangement, they are smaller, lighter, and have a 1.59:1 reduction in low range vs. a 1.45:1 on the 4 speed. They are the obvious choice - which is why we all use them. The going rate is around $100. I won't pay any more for one - they are as common as dirt. You are incorrect about the EA71. There were EA71's made with the correct bell-housing for the dual-range transmission. They were made in the mid-80's and came on the STD model hatchback. The bell-housing I beleive can be fitted to the older EA71 or at least the entire engine can be made to look as though it came factory in a 70's body. It's not difficult to restamp some serial numbers if you already have a 70's EA71 laying around. EA81's are the better choice of course, but even parts for them are getting scarce. Just sourceing oil-pump's is getting tough. Forget about finding parts for the EA71's - even the most popular engine rebuilder for Subaru engines has stopped rebuilding them due to Subaru not carrying any of the parts - can't even get a head gasket from the dealer for them anymore. GD

Unfortunately if you use a larger diameter *bolt* you are going to affect the torque value required to put the same amount of clamp force on the head gasket. The larger diameter bolt will not stretch the same even if you get the exact same grade (there aren't exact equivelents of grade between standard and metric either so that's another concern). You had better discuss such things with an engineer or a very good machinist before doing it. There are formuli to determine such things, but I am not versed in them and would have to research it. Having an unequal clamping force for a single bolt is a really bad idea - will almost certainly warp the head and probably cause a premature gasket failure. GD

Yes - the nut doesn't loosen by spinning on the threads, it loosens by the cone washer and hub mating surfaces wearing away beneath the nut - thus causing there to be an ever-diminishing "stack" behind the nut and causing the hub to be loose on the axle. GD

It does not depend. The SPFI swap is entirely unassociated with the catalyst. GD

Delta will make whatever you want, but you should think twice about spending the time and money on that engine. It's limited to duration changes only on the cams because of the cam tower designs (no changes in max lift). You also would need two cams..... GD

I second the walbro - have one in my 91 LSS - works great. GD

The "cone washer" or "conical spacer" as it is refered to is actually a mecahnical lock, known as a "mechalock" or simply a taper-lock. As the nut is tightened, the cone shape of the hub forces the cone washer to close at it's split (notice the 1/16" gap in the cone washer?). As the washer closes it grabs the axle shaft and locks the hub to the shaft. If the cone washer or hub are damaged/grooved/etc this will not occur at the specified torque value and the axle nut will never stay tight. I have seen this on more than one occasion - eventually leading to the destruction of the splines in the hub. Generally it is only neccesary to replace the cone washer as it is softer than the hub. !No amount of filing/grinding/reworking/etc will fix a worn cone washer! Any reduction in the OD of the washer will result in insufficient clamping force on the axle shaft and loosening of the nut. Any questions? GD

For the reccord, nowhere in my write up does it mention the need or use of a cat. GD

No - it likely won't fit through the head. Mixing standard and metric like that is amaturish and it will be difficult to match up a new non-metric bolt with a similar grade. If you must, install a 10mm x 1.0 heli-coil and source a stud for that location. 10mmx1.0 is much more common and you should be able to heli-coil down 1mm without any drilling - just tap it and install the heli-coil. Otherwise do it right and get the proper heli-coil - while you are at it do the rest of them as well. Or at least chase the threads with a proper tap. GD