GeneralDisorder

Yeah - if you want the feedback to function it really has to be there. That's it's primary sensor and without it you are pretty much at full rich again. GD

As I said before - you and your valves would be happier if it were working to reduce your combustion temps and *not* burn your exhaust valves out of your heads. GD

That's wonderful - but clicking on them isn't neccesary as they are not links, but rather imbeded images in the post script. So anyone that clicks on this post has to load the images. *edit* - thank you for fixing that! You are perfectly welcome here - but you should know that you are showing us pictures of a rusty, midwest GL....... that's not really anything to be particularly exited about. It falls into the catagory of "Transportation"..... pretty basic and underwhelming to us Subaruphiles I'm afraid. I have over 11,000 posts on this board - you suppose I probably know a thing or two about standard equipment and how your locks work? Maybe...... GD

Nearly all 2WD's were feedback carb equipped regardless of where they were sold. For 4WD's, look under the driver's side dash - there would be a computer box bolted to the column. All feedback cars have an O2 sensor in the crotch of the y-pipe as well. That's the quickest giveaway under the hood. GD

I take it this thing didn't come off a Subaru? You will want to rebuild it - and change any jets that don't match the reccomended Subaru jetting: 140/140 mains 160/170 air bleeds 50 idle jet(s) GD

.....Yeah we have all seen plenty of GL's. No need to wipe your a$$ with people's bandwidth. There's quite a few of us that see dozens of these daily. 1. You would do well to put the EGR back on. 2. It has power door locks - apparently they just aren't working. When you lock the drivers door the rest should lock on their own. 3. It's not a spoiler - it's a rear window dust deflector. GD

Works best if you mount it like the Hitachi is mounted - just use the Hitachi's plastic spacer and peen a dent in the power steering reservoir to clear the Weber. It won't hurt the reservoir if you are careful. GD

Yeah - it is the turbo from the 22T. He's using it on a smaller engine though and it doesn't spool at low enough RPM's for his application. Mostly we are interested in finding out if the compressor housing of the VF7 can be rotated without rotating the body of the turbo - the VF11 can, and he has it rotated about 170 degrees counter-clockwise as it's mounted on the driver's side of the engine rather than the passenger side as in the EA series cars. GD

32/36 Weber's are not designed for forced induction and due to their progressive linkage, lack of throttle shaft seals, and the complete absence of properly designed emulsion tubes, are a complete pain in the a$$ to tune at pressure's above atmospheric. They would, of course, work for a draw-through..... but that's a scary proposition and I wouldn't want to be within 50 feet of it. Incorrect - any kind of forced induction requires basically the same mods - the only differences are in how it's driven and controlled. If you think you are going to run stock exhaust with a supercharger you are sadly mistaken. Not to mention the greater complexity of mounting the SC and driving it. 1. Tons. If you want to turbocharge a carb you have a variety of issues to deal with. For one the 32/36 is a very poor choice. Almost anything is better. I sugest you start reading up on blow-through vs. draw-through, and get real familiar with pressure and flow. 2. No. It will be insanely complex to do either one in fact. A single turbo on a single carb is doable - but what you want is something that takes many, many years of experience and knowledge to make happen - not to mention a lot of disposable income. If I wanted it bad enough I could probably do it, and I know a handful of other guys that could as well. But it's neither feasible nor is it reccomended at your skill level. There are issues that are beyond your ability to fix I'm afraid - for starters the heads won't handle the flow and the head gaskets won't hold the pressure without o-ringing the block. Just those two problems are monumental to overcome. Literally thousands of $ in fact. Stick with a single carb (not the Weber) and a single turbo - source an EA81T engine cross-member and some EA82T exhaust parts..... that is something you might actually accomplish and will teach you a great deal in the process. Keep the boost around 5 to 8 pounds though. 3. It is absolutely a stupid idea, and you won't prove me wrong. I've actually built turbo/carb engines. GD

I was refering to rebuilding the transmission - complete syncro, bearing, and seal replacement in addition to the external parts and the labor. I was merely pointing out that it would be responsible to rebuild such a transmission if it's going into a heavier car with twice the HP. Many a used transmission can barely shift correctly on stock HP these days. Throw 170 HP at it and watch your investment drain out with the gear oil..... Uncle Scotty's is also a real bad idea. Especially after $1600 worth of parts. Anytime you mix lubricants you are just asking for trouble. GD

I don't have the pleasure () of owning an EA series turbo at the moment but I have need of some information regarding the VF7 - specifically the differences between it and a VF11. I had two VF11's and one went to a friend for a project - he has decided it too large for the project and wishes now to determine what changes must be made to fit a VF7 in it's place. That means changing the flanges if applicable and possibly re-clocking the inlet and discharge as he has done that with the VF11. So: 1. What does it look like for re-clocking the compressor housing? and 2. what are the differerences in the exhaust inlet and discharge flanges? Pictures always appreciated of course Thanks, GD

1. Respectfully, your opinion is based on your engine - which has had a lot of modifications compared to stock. 2. Gen 3 heads NEVER came stock on an EA82T - they were available only as replacement parts through Subaru. 3. The OP says he can't even afford the CAR right now for $300. I seriously doubt that he's ready to drop several grand on the parts and tools necessary to bring a 20+ year old turbo engine to a point where it can be driven daily in a reliable fashion. 4. Most of the opinions expressed on the EA82T are in the context of their relative worth to *other* Subaru engines. As such, while the EA82T might be a great engine next to something from SAAB or Hyundai, it certainly is not the brightest star in the Subaru constellation. In fact *most* people agree it's the next worse thing to the Justy ECVT and right below the Justy engine and it's finicky oil pump. 5. It's reliability problems could be excused if it produced phenomenal power or was easily modifiable to do so. It doesn't, and it can't. Thus *most* people see very little point in a turbo motor that is *lucky* if it can reliably get down the road due to an over-caffeinated owner that is anal about maintenance. In short - it doesn't do the whole job it was designed for. 6. Most of us recognize that the EA82 series of engines (including the Turbo) was a stop-gap solution while they waited on the R&D guys to finish the EJ engine design (they began R&D on the EJ in '85). It's an EA81 with kludged-on overhead cam's and tower supports for them. I won't go into all the design faults but I will say it's a testament to the Subaru engineers that they could take the design that far and still get the reliablilty they did with it (at least the non-turbo version). GD

You need to post in the new gen forum. EJ22's are 1990 and newer. GD

Yeah - I just shove it on. Two people make it easier I suppose but I have done it myself as well. I think I used like 36" or around that size - we stock it at work so I just cut off a chunk long enough to do the job. GD

I had a 79 wagon with an EA71/3AT. The body is light and 65 HP is enough. I did 80 on the freeway with it. GD

I use clear teflon tubing. 3/8" or 5/16" would work fine. Attach one end to the bottle and the other through the fill plug hole. GD

It's a matter of swapping or modifying the entire transmission - the "low range" is not a transfer case at all, but rather a split input shaft that transfers power through a low range gearset or straight through depending on the selector lever. It has nothing at all to do with the 4WD system - in fact you *can* have an EA transmission in 2WD Low (front wheel drive) if you shift in the low range gearset and not the 4WD transfer gear. I suspect that what you want is something like the european AWD dual-range transmissions but you'll find they are prohibitively expensive here. Using an EA transmission can be done with an adaptor plate but this has it's drawbacks as well - those transmissions were designed to handle 90 HP in a lighter car and most have hundreds of thousands of miles on them now. Rebuilding them, while possible, is again prohibitively expensive. You have to ask yourself - how bad do you really want low range in a vehicle that probably doesn't need it? You are looking at several thousand dollars in parts to do it right and a lot of custom labor.... for what? GD

You can try the dealer, but otherwise you'll have to find it here or at a junk yard. GD

Changing the exhaust size does little without supporting mods - if you change it at all, only change it from the collector back or you will destroy the scavenging. The distributors are all the same - changing to a "2WD" unit will make no difference in the advance curve. This is just an old wives tale. If you want more power you should swap in an SPFI short block and change the cams. You could probably get around 100 HP from an SPFI shorty, cams, collector-back exhaust (gut the cat), and properly tuned Weber. The SPFI engine was 90 HP to start (higher comp.) to your 85's 84 HP. GD

Just buy another one and swap the dash - that's the only VIN they ever look at or care about. Hell - someone on the board here might have a junker with a title and a dash . GD

8 is a model designation code - it indicates something about your region/engine/transmisson combination. It flashes if there are no stored fault codes. What you are seeing is the computer telling you "all is well". GD

1. The EA82T is pretty much a craptastic engine. 2. If the turbo really is bad - what caused this? They rarely fail if they have proper oil and coolant supply. There are no bearings - they are oil flooded bushings and as such there should be NO metal to metal cantact inside the turbo - again they don't fail unless they have been starved for oil/coolant, or plain run too hot (overheated engine.... see #3). 3. If the turbo has "failed", then likely the engine has as well, or isn't far behind it. GD

On the one hand I'll say that you are correct to a point on the angle issue but you REALLY have to be at bad angles for the Weber to stall out. Mostly you just lose a bit of power. I've always been able to drive away - except when some debris gets stuck in the air corrector's. I would caution you on used Weber's - they are mostly a fun guessing game concerning what the previous mechanic's that owned it did to it/with it. They often have bad throttle shaft bushings and weird jetting issues. Even the new one's aren't immune to these issues, but at least you won't have worn out parts. GD

Mileage should be around 27 to 30 with a properly operating feedback system. Although there are other factors - the engine in my hatch (which I drive almost daily - 230k on it) has low compression in the #2 cylinder and gets the same with the Weber it has now as it did with the Hitachi that I used to write the post that you refered to above. It's right at 25 MPG either way due to the low cylinder. Sounds like your choke is not working or your high-idle adjustment is out. It should idle around 1500 RPM till it warms up. Frankly unless you have the capitol to spend on a Redline Weber kit, I would probably rejet the carb you have or find another Hitachi that's not a feedback model. If you can find one with a good throttle shaft that would be ideal. I might be able to scrounge together a set of jets for you but I'll have to look at what I have. I'm really moving away from carbs altogether as the supply of SPFI parts around here is excelent and the prices are insanely low - all our u-pick yards changed ownership and the prices went way down. And when those parts run out the future for me is all EJ engines in my EA bodies anyway. I'm building one last EA81 because I already have all the parts besides the cam - after that it's just not worth the bother with all the EJ22's out there for dirt cheap. GD

Offer $100. That's my top price for a 5 speed, 4WD, EA82. If it's not a 5 speed with 4WD, then I won't take it for free. For comparison, someone just GAVE me a 93 legacy LS wagon - 4WD, Automatic (yuck) - just needed an alternator and an exhaust leak fixed. I've owned more than two dozen Subaru's, and the most I've ever paid was around $1500 for my 91 SS.... but it's rare and desireable. Seriously - put the word out that you are interested and before you know it someone will be calling you to haul one off. I have a reputation around my peers and coworkers for being "that crazy Subaru guy" and the damn things breed like rabbits around my place. I rarely have to actually pay for one. All you have to do is wait. GD